Printable View
I am going to set up all modules where I can easily add on an adjustable bracket. This will allow me to mount a fan directly on the heat sink, incase area cooling is not adequate.
And/Or it will let me tilt the light up to 60 degrees. I only foresee using the tilt feature along the borders of the grow, when I want to direct the light inward.
whoops, forgot pic
redline do you ever use stars or do you just use the regular lights. I ordered 10 3w red stars on ebay to play with, China knock offs. I was gonna order a piece of the aluminum heatsink on ebay, but had no idea how big of a piece I would need or want him to cut. do you have any suggestions? thanks
I was looking at the adhesive. I don't know if it matters, but the artic silver is not fully electrically insulated, some LEDs need to be insulated from the heatsink. if you buy the artic aluminum adhesive it is fully electrically insulated.Quote:
Originally Posted by redline
also, someone said the heatsinks are not available now, but if you type in just "extrusion heatsink" in ebay you will get the heatsinks redline is talking about. if you buy from him make sure you get the "large" one and tell him to cut to your size. its like 3' wider for the same price. the large is 8.5 x 12" and the other is 5 3/8 x 12 for the same price.
I use both stars and bare emitters. My preference is with bare emitters since they are cheaper and I avoid an extra thermal barrier.
I mount emitters with artic alumina adhesive. Stars you can mount with any good grease like artic silver since most have most have slugs that are electrically inactive.
On emitters, you can also use arctic silver adhesive (not the grease). Like the alumina it is also a non-conductor. I believe the difference between the alumina adhesive and the silver adhesive is less of a capacitance effect. This has no bearing on LED applications.
For heat sink size, you need 9 square inches per watt of conductive surface with no fans.
I got some more pictures which I will post in a day or two. Progress is painfully slow.
I went to order some LM317's and I found all different knids. they have lm317T, AT, A, AEMP, AEMPX, etc. is there a difference in how they work or just the design. Also, what gauge wire should I use to wire 3w LEDs. if I use artic silver grease on a star will this hold the LED to the heatsink or do I need to use the adhesive to keep it attached? sorry for all the questions.
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by stupefacient
Aloha Stupefacient
Get da beeg one.:)
You want the T0-220 package
(three terminal with case for mounting on a heat sink)
And 20 gauge will work jus' fine for under 1 ampere.
Actually you could use 22 gauge for short runs. Easier to solder.
Regards, Weezard
"Can not display page" <Grumble grumble.>Quote:
Originally Posted by stupefacient
W.
Stup, you need to us a couple of screws to hold the Star to the heat sink.
That means drilling and tapping a couple of machine screw holes. They also have some self-drilling and self taping metal screws that might work. I bought some but have never tried them.
Aloha RLQuote:
Originally Posted by redline
I used self tapping, copper plated screws in an aluminum htsnk for my last light.
As long as the hole size is right, they work a treat!
Sure beats tapping copper.
Ciao,
Weezard