please help my little plant's leaves has turned gray on the side what could this mean??? please help
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please help my little plant's leaves has turned gray on the side what could this mean??? please help
-indoor
-soil
-some soil called wondersoil
-wondersoil
-
-nothing added to the soil
-Soil pH- not really sure yet i dont know how to figure out
-fresh water
-Water pH not sure
-Age of plant about 3 weeks old from seed
-Type of fertilizer said it before
-Rate of application huh?
-Lighting source and distance from plant 50 watt bulb on the side of the plant about 20 cm away from it and a 100w cfl on top about 10cm away
-Temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period) 72F 24C
-% Relative humidity its warm that al li can say
-Lighting schedule 18hrs of light 6 hrs of darkness everyday
-Type of ventilation your room has just 1 computerfan facing the plant
-indoor
-soil
-some soil called wondersoil
-wondersoil
-
-nothing added to the soil
-Soil pH- not really sure yet i dont know how to figure out
-fresh water
-Water pH not sure
-Age of plant about 3 weeks old from seed
-Type of fertilizer said it before
-Rate of application huh?
-Lighting source and distance from plant 50 watt bulb on the side of the plant about 20 cm away from it and a 100w cfl on top about 10cm away
-Temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period) 72F 24C
-% Relative humidity its warm that al li can say
-Lighting schedule 18hrs of light 6 hrs of darkness everyday
-Type of ventilation your room has just 1 computerfan facing the plant
I don't see where you listed the fertilizer.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
Does the soil come pre-fertilized?
Rate of application means how much fertilizer are you using per gallon of water and how often are you using in
50 watt bulb of what TYPE>?
Humid means how much moisture is in the air not the temperature.
oh im not sure about the humid,the 50w is a flourescent tube, the soil does come pre fertilized and heres a pic of the soil im using. on the container it saysQuote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
lightwight & easy to handle
with polymers & nutrients
better drainage
biodegradable
Those look VERY small for 3 weeks from seed. They should have at least 4-5 nodes by now. They are also stretched because they don't have enough light.
Pre-fertilized soil is appropriate for a 3 week plant, but only if it is matured past the seedling stage, which those aren't.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
the 1 on the left is 4 inches long and its 3 weeks but the 1 on the just sprouted 2 days ago
Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
so what can i do just wait and do nothing and continue to do what i was doing before or do something else?
u plant streched u light needs to be closer
trust me on this u light need to be closer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dankeybuds420
ok once i get my lights closer what next and how close should the lights be?
what about now?
ok so i lowered the lights on them now 1 of the lights is about 2 cm above it and for the little one the lights are about 10cm away from it what do you think? what can i do now? please help i really want my plants to live look in the last pic in my last comment thats the new lights that i lowered
well i mean the plant long long stem one pluck it out now k
the blue cup one is good u have to remember right wen the top pops up from the soil put the light close to the plant k
the blue cup one is fine pluck the tall one out
The light thats under the blue lower it 3 inches from the plant
how many watts u need to get a 100 watt one
trust me i hav grown fields and fields of this shit if there is one thing i have knowen is lights 100 watt cool white
:wtf: The light looks to be about 2.5 inches away from the plant already... :wtf:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dankeybuds420
:wtf: The poster listed how many watts he's using already... :wtf:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dankeybuds420
:giggity:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dankeybuds420
:yeahright:
I'm sorry... you know what? You're right. There's no science behind growing... :weedpoke:
...just plant a seed, plug in a cool fluorescent, and watch the fields start growing! Am I right? Man, you're awesome! :D
Welcome back Harddon (dankeybuds420). Please lay off the insults. Thanks.
I'm guessing you're referring to me. I'm sorry, wasn't trying to insult anyone. My sarcasm gets the best of me sometimes...Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
I'll disappear for a while.
You didn't see the post that I deleted.
Oh, well... good! The thought of disappearing actually had me kinda bummed. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
Harddons back best damn grower:thumbsup:
ok thanks i pluked the tall one out and i lowered the lights to the blue cup plant to about 2 inches about hopes thats okay and im starting to see results already, it stopped grow by height and its working on the new nodes now. in the middle theres 2 small nodes popping out and i think its gonna move upward am i right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dankeybuds420
good take a pic of it so i can see it
here it is but i think it grew a bit taller. and 1 of the nodes that it sprouted with is fatter then the other what wrong with it?
HOLY SHIT SON, that thing is gonna fall over in a couple of days! I'd scrap the whole grow and restart:thumbsup:
and.................KEEP A FAN ON IT 24/7!
Meh, other than the stretch it's not bad. When it's big enough to transplant (probably 5 nodes in a pot that size) you'll just bury it up to the cotyledons.
Next time, you should probably add at least SOME perlite to the soil. It alone won't change the pH of your soil, and makes particularly damp potting soils drain better and allows for more oxygen to the roots.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
You need to learn! You can get an aquarium pH test kit from pretty much anywhere. They're inexpensive and will give you an idea where you stand. Know the pH of your fresh water, and know the pH of your soil by testing the runoff. As the plant gets bigger and you start using nutrients, the pH can change dramatically and potentially cause some huge problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
I don't remember you mentioning using a fertilizer, unless you mean what's already in your soil. If you're using a fertilizer, stop. Rate of application = amount of nutrients being used and frequency of application. (Once a week? Twice?)Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
Your most recent picture just shows a 20W CFL... you'll eventually need more blue spectrum lighting, even for one plant. You'll want to keep the light as close to the sprout as possible without causing it any heat stress. Too weak of a light being kept too far away is going to cause BAD stretching every time.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
What does that mean? Elaborate when giving details. You can't just generalize and expect people to know what you're thinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
Read through the FAQs. ALL of them... not just what pertains to you. The more you learn about the basics, the easier they'll become. It's not difficult to complete a successful grow, but you can't go into it on nothing but a whim and expect anything more than substandard results.
Sit down, roll a J if you've got it, and get lost in all the information that can be found on these servers. :jointsmile:
thanks stinky and clandestine. clandenstine, i already figured out how to test water ph and its normal for soil its 6.6 but how about soil ph? and imma add more lights soon enough
You want to keep the soil pH in the same area, I'm pretty sure that 6.4-6.8 is ideal... that's where I try to keep it. But expect it to change later on when you start adding things to your water, as I mentioned earlier, and know beforehand what to do when it happens. By keeping a close eye on pH, you can actually worry less about the specific levels of each individual container. If one plant is showing symptoms and the rest are thriving, then you've got a good starting point towards making a tailored diagnosis.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
oh ok how can i test my soil ph i bought something from an aquarium shop for water ph tests but dont know about soil
First, try to get the pH of your water as close to 7.0 as possible. Then water the soil until you begin to produce runoff at the bottom of the pot. Collect that water and test the pH of it. That's your soil pH.
Testing it now is fine, just so you know what your medium does to the pH of your water... but don't do it any more frequently than you need to. Especially while your plants are that young. Too much moisture can cause root rot, damping off, slow/stunted growth, and other nasty problems.
Dont put the fan right by it 15 in away
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Clandestine
oh ok is 6.6 so after i water my plants what should the soil ph usualy be?
6.6 is actually within the proper range for your soil. 6.3-6.8 is correct, with 6.5-6.8 being better since it is more likely for a soil to drop in pH than to rise, due to the naturally low pH of some common soil ingredients.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
oh ok thanks stinky i have decided to yank that other one and restart with a better equiptmentQuote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
I mean u cant grow wit cheap if u want good smoke
i mean u could but i spent 5000 on fans lights all the stuff:smokin:
oh well i got a real low budget so im tryna keep it $150 - $200 and i spend about like 90 but just today i put in another cfl just like the other and now its about 270W in there (incandescent wattage)and its only about 25 degrees C in there so i hope i'll have a nice grow this time without any stretchesQuote:
Originally Posted by Dankeybuds420
What are the ACTUAL watts?
20W for the 2 cfls and 50W for the flourescent tubeQuote:
Originally Posted by psteve
So only 90 actual watts.
That is almost enough light enough for a 1 foot by 1.5 foot canopy (canopy is the lateral space occupied by the top of the plant, that is exposed to the most direct light), of a plant less than 24 inches tall.
If you want a bigger plant to produce satisfactory buds, you will definitely need a lot more light.
If you are going to use exclusively fluorescent light, you should be trying for more than 70 ACTUAL watts per square foot of canopy, and still try to keep your plant height as low as possible by using a scrog, LST, or some other supercropping technique.