Nute absortion question

I have a Ph/tds meter on the way but until I receive it would like to know how much to top off rez with nutes:

2 Plants are 24 days since sprouted. They started off kind of slow because I was late in getting them on a feeding program. Props to BB for suggesting. They have really taken off since adding nutes.

These are under a 400W ML right now

I have about 4 gal of tap water in the rez. I use A.N 3 part system. Basically what I am doing is adding 5ml of each nute to the rez. I have done it twice spread out over about 5 days. Ph/temp is good (using a ph kit from wally world for now so I am eye ballin it but plants look good.) I really dont know how much these plants are eating, I would rather be cautious than burn them.

In a 24hr time frame how much of the nutes are being consumed from uptake and whats the best method or amount of nutes to keep adding to the rez. Do you do this daily or wait a couple days. Given the age of these and size how many ml of nutes do you think I should be adding and how often given the above criteria.

I know there is a chart in the faqs for a guidline but its hard for me to guestimate what week these are in. I mean theorhetically yeah they are in their 4th week but when do you start counting week 1,2 and 3 etc.. because its littered all over cannibus.com that you shouldnt feed anywhere from 3 to 5 weeks, some have suggested that you wait until you have your 4th or 5th node.

Comments, suggestions or advice is much appreciated


Peace :stoned:

what is a 400 w ML I hope its not a muk vapor street lamp
Now lets start out with the plants
Unknow , so once they get about 5-8 nodes side shoots , cut off some for clones.
Now mark them and get into cloning , as soon as they have roots put them in to 12 /12 with a bloom fert.

Now with your little plants start out with 600-700 above background ppm if you have 300 ppm tape water make it 900-1000 for 2 more weeks. Then hit them with a total of 1300 over background.
It takes about 3 days for the plants to show what is going on. If they leaf tip burn is none add 150 ppm , till the 1/16-1/8 leaf tip burn. Besure to write that number down.

In 1-1.5 weeks the clones will show sex. Now cull out the males , and reclone. Still keeping the females you had from the start.

Remember to make sure the space is light tight , no light leaks what so ever.
You should be on you way to a good crops
I have used 1300 ppm over background and ph of 5.2-5.8 with a real good incalibrationi meter. NOTE incalibratrion !
Always watch you leafs to tell you what to do
:tomcat:

Sorry I meant 400 MH lol....

Basically this is my first grow so I have already made mistakes.

For example, the only way I can change my rez is by taking the whole lid off with the plants and all thus exposing them to light. There are already white tipped roots with fuzzy hairs on them pertruding out the net pots So how should I change the rez with minimal light exposure?

Second, I am not going to go for clones this time around. I am just wanting to roll start to finish to experience the life cycle of the cannibus plant. I got some really good beans from across the pond 3 specific strains and they through in a free mixed bag of ten which are what I am growing. I have no idea what strain they are sativa/indica hybrid who knows. So far there is no yellowing and the leaves are in a flying V pattern. I believe that is good.

Something tells me that they are not getting enough food. I believe a plant is considered "a plant" staring the veg cycle once there are 2 to 4 sets of true leaves and that you can go with full strength nutes. Is this true. Would you all suggest that at this time just follow the guidelines on the nute containers. Without a meter I am clueless but as I said earlier better to under feed than burn em. You seem like a seasoned vet with going by the site of the leaves. Thats a little more advanced for me. If I saw that I would probably freak out and flush. Dont get me wrong I know you know what you are talking about but I am just saying that technique is a bit more advanced than where I am at this point being a nube and all.

Comments

peace :stoned:

hydro with out a meter is worthless as tits on a bull.
Now all the beans, pick know types and get them working. Different strains act different, differant bloom cycle, so pick one strain and get it to work. Third node or forth node is a good starting point.
Now rememeber you do not know what they are , both males, both females, or 50/50 it upto muther nature, and you know how she reacts to the weather.
I like MH as always had the best luck with it, in test. Keep the lighting 16/8 or 18/4 for best results. The plants will have there taproot in the water in no time.

Yeah dude I should have my meter today. I am not sure what the ppm should be. What do you think? They are 25 days now and have sets of fives right now. They seem really healthy lookin good but like I said this is my first grow with hydro. The roots are shooting out the bottom of the 5" net pots. The one that is doing the best has a couple of roots hanging about 4" from the bottom of the pot. Is it ok for the roots to hang in the water? When should I be able to tell the sex. I have them on 18/6.

Peace bro!

Wont be able to tell sex for a bit...just look for small white hairs or clusters of balls. This is located by the branching nodes normally. You can be 100% till 12/12 though, but you can be 95%. Depending on the strain I would say your plants could take around 800ppm (so if your water is 200ppm its 1000ppm) then bump it up as needed. You should be feeding more N than P&K. I use 15ml Grow 10ml Micro 5ml Bloom per gallon for veg growth. You plants will let you know if they need something more.

Your res is way too small for 2 plants, get a 18 gal rubbermaid and put 2 in there. Its much easier with a larger res. Less PH fluctuation and change it much less. You need 5 gal per plant at least. The roots will be mostly in the water...I leave about 3" of space between bottom of the pots and the water level. The key is dissolved O2...you need to keep the water temps 58-70 that is key and a good airpump with a stone in the reservoir.

Exposing the roots to light for a few min is no big deal. When I change my res out I have another 18 gal res thats filled with phed water. I take the lid with the plants off and put it on the other container so the roots dont dry. Then I empty my res out and pump the phed water (the one the plants are in) into the main res. I then Mix nutes and re PH as needed then I pop the plants back in. Try to minimize any time out of the water for the roots.

H2O2 is also a good preventive measure for DWC, its no good for organic but great for what you are using ( I use GH 3 part ). I add 15 ml per gallon every once and a while, this provides more O2 for the roots and prevents algae growth...the main part to preventing algae growth is the res temps and blocking light from entering the res.

Hope this helps!!! Keep us updated.

Cyclo,

Thanks for the info. I am actually using an 18 gal res but I only am putting in 5 or so gal of water. Reason being is that the more water I put in it seems it warms up a lot quicker. Keeping it at about 5 gal the water temps are more stable. I am using the old ghetto frozen water in a plastic bottle but its working. Roots look very healthy. Ph is always right on the money. I know its a little high maintenance doing it this way having to top off etc more often but it seems to be working so I will stick with it. I do have an airstone going. whats a good H202 product? What about hydrogen peroxide is that okay to add to the rez if so how much? Do you think they are looking okay at 26 days?

Peace