Is this a decent sound system?

Well i was fucking around on ebay and i saw this sound system, it was awesome because there were 3 of them and 2 were priced at 29.99 and one was priced at 2.99, now i immediatly bought the item for this price (for those familiar with ebay those prices were the buy it now prices) because i thought it was a mistake and the likelyhood of the seller cathing it was slim because the sellers who drop ship (like this one does) and who have like 57257 feedback score are usually automated and have like 1 person running the entire thing. so it turned out i was completly right and now i have a 300 watt sound system with 2, 12" subs (bad ass mofos) and i cant wait to put it all in my car, which already has a nice ass head unit, it plays cds loaded with mp3's and cd-rw's and it even has a USB port so i can plug a flash drive in there and BAM instant music that i can customize each morning before i leave in about 2 min. and the head unit already supplies 160 watts (22x4 rms)

But i was just wondering is this a good deal for a 300watt amp and 2 12" subs? :confused::confused:

All together it costed me 32.98 with shipping

this is a similar one on ebay (only thing diff between this one and the one i got was the price)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Insignia-300-Wat...QQcmdZViewItem

It's a sub-par brand, and I guess for 30 bucks any pair of 12's are a steal, but they're not that powerful, like, at all. But if that's all your looking for, nice snag.

This is the info we needed

Amplifier features:MOSFET power supply and output devicesStereo or bridged mono outputSelectable bass boost: 0, 8, or 15 dBTri-mode protection4 ohm RMS output: 2x120 continuous watts per channel2 ohm bridged output: 360 wattsVariable 45-300Hz high-pass filter45-300Hz low-pass filterSubwoofer features:Plating injection-molding cone with polypropolene material50oz single-stacked magnet87dB8 ohms/4 ohmsInsulated 20-gauge tinsel leads


I would bridge it in series..... and see if it can handle it.

Make sure you have a good ground....and a inline fuse or circut breaker.

Remember DONOT ground any leads.....

Magnet is a little light.....

single coil....

only 87 db at 1watt at one meter

a cheap series one..... has 91 sensitivity

okay so im kinda confused about how to do this, if i buy a 2 speaker Amp wiring kit will i have everything i need to install it?

Also im guessing that i get some of those a/v cords (i know they arent audio/video but thats the closest kind of connector that i know, and they have the same shape) and run those from the pre-amp outputs coming out the back of my head unit. then just connect the subs to leads and run the leads to the amp right?

its got 2 built in 20a fuses as well, but do i need to put anymore aslo where to i find a +12V power lead, also i know how to ground it, just run a lead to the frame and bolt the bitch on there.

also there are two places to connect the pre-amp outputs one says high-input and one says low-input, the low input is the same conenction as the outputs on my headunit, but what about the high-input, is that for speakers? it has leads coming out of a connector

Quote:

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Originally Posted by God v2.0

okay so im kinda confused about how to do this, if i buy a 2 speaker Amp wiring kit will i have everything i need to install it?

Also im guessing that i get some of those a/v cords (i know they arent audio/video but thats the closest kind of connector that i know, and they have the same shape) and run those from the pre-amp outputs coming out the back of my head unit. then just connect the subs to leads and run the leads to the amp right?

its got 2 built in 20a fuses as well, but do i need to put anymore aslo where to i find a +12V power lead, also i know how to ground it, just run a lead to the frame and bolt the bitch on there.

also there are two places to connect the pre-amp outputs one says high-input and one says low-input, the low input is the same conenction as the outputs on my headunit, but what about the high-input, is that for speakers? it has leads coming out of a connector

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The connectors are called RCA cables...

install hed unit

run RCA cables to the low input....That means BASS. If you use the high input side. Your amp will have to convert power/signal to just power it was make too much heat.

Yes i would run and inline fuse even if the amp has 2 (cant be too safe)


Ground to frame is best.... if you are mounting it under your seat take a bolt out from your car seat (claen it for good conectivity) and there is your ground.

I would bridge.....it, it in series. it will increase power and not drop ohm load.

Take the positve from from the left and connect it to the negative on the right.
now you have one positive and one negitive and a wire nut holding the other together.

you can just put pos to pos and neg to neg, but it will rop your ohm load to 4.

i wouldnt get that shit.

my homie just installed a zuess ampifier
to some jl audio's 2 x 12's and that shit bumps

bought it in downtown la for 200.00 with monster cables included

when buying something on Ebay that is redculiously cheap,check the shipping info real good!!!

anyways,,,You get what you pay for is my rule of thumb,but that does not mean you can't find a bargain... A bargain,not a giveaway...

yea friend i used to run.. a soundstream 405s at 1ohms and 2 JL 12s.

you could feel it before you herd it coming down the street

you coulndt talk to each other in side my landcruiser. It would distort your voice waves...like talking into a fan....

I back the JLs for sure i would have to study about your buddies amps.

ps some bitches stole my system 2 times out of my cruiser. just the back window in that thing was 650 bucks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bong30

I would bridge it in series..... and see if it can handle it

Magnet is a little light.....

single coil....

only 87 db at 1watt at one meter

a cheap series one..... has 91 sensitivity

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i was telling him is was pretty cheap stuff with out saying it... he was so proud.