sD's new Auto-topper method for DWC systems

Ok guys, I have been doing a lot of dreaming as to how I can auto-top while on vacation. I hate using a toilet float valve for this application as it seems more unreliable than an electrical pump, so here we go. All you will need is like a 250gph pump or bigger from the pet store...This of course depends on the size you use for control res's and auto-topping/catcher res's. I use all 10gal Sterilites as they are dark grey and with aluminum foil keep all the light out very well.

How does it work: Well, it's very simple infact..I'm surprised I haven't come across this method online yet. [reference the pic as well]
It includes 3 res's. One, your control res, that sits on the floor next to your room. This handles the recirc. system. If you aren't familiar with recirculating DWC systems, see my other thread in this forum on how to build one. You will also need 2 more res's, one that sits next to your control res and one that sits on top of that one. One to feed the control res at all times, and one to "catch" the "waterline overflow" and pump it back up to the autotop res. Look at the pic and it will make simple sense. Also, another good point about this method is it gives your system double the fresh nutes, all the time...it's like having 2 control res's, so the PH, EC and temperature will stay much more consistant. Plus having the ability to have a smaller pump in the control res decreases the amount of heat released, which decreases water temp as a whole, IN THE SYSTEM. Plus, you have a pump to fully drain the system more quickly now as well and don't have to disconnect your recirc. pump.

I just came up with this method and am in the middle of testing it, so any questions or comments would be helpfull...but I think when I get it dialed in, it will be easy to leave for up to two weeks at a time.

-sD

Interesting concept. In theory it should work. Just a couple suggestions...

1. What if you lose power or a pump? Anyone who uses this method should make sure that the entire auto-top reservoir does not overfill the system, as all of the water will drain out without a pump or in case of a power failure.

2. I would be curious to know what the circulation rates are through the auto-top res. Maybe someone is ambitious enough to crunch the flow and static pressure/circular pressured weir equations.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mountainman

Interesting concept. In theory it should work. Just a couple suggestions...

1. What if you lose power or a pump? Anyone who uses this method should make sure that the entire auto-top reservoir does not overfill the system, as all of the water will drain out without a pump or in case of a power failure.

2. I would be curious to know what the circulation rates are through the auto-top res. Maybe someone is ambitious enough to crunch the flow and static pressure/circular pressured weir equations.

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Hey mountainman! You're right about the power failure, which is why I recommend that your "catcher res" is big enough to hold all the autotopper res liquid, in the event of a power failure....As for the actualy pump rates, it would depend on the gph of the pump...then all you would have to determine is how much liquid [in gals] comes out of the auto-topper res in the course of an hour and there you have it. I'll do the test and get back with you, but I figured my 250gph pump would be more than adequate with 10-18gal res's.
-sD

Wow, skunky a very interesting concept. I want to see pictures of the actual model working.

Use a float from a swamp cooler and use a solonoide (electrical valve ) on a timer. Worked for me over 20 years.
I always filled at 3 am and turned on the tank mixing pump for 1/2 hr after refill. Also ran the mixing pump for 10 minutes before a system pot fill.
This was a 100 gal res. and failure was out out of the question.
Note very rare is a 3 am power failure.