ive recently topped about half the plants i have outside and tied them down also....has anyone had any personal experience topping the plant and bending it??
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ive recently topped about half the plants i have outside and tied them down also....has anyone had any personal experience topping the plant and bending it??
YEs.
EGHAD!
I bent BITCH over first then I topped her. Shit i would go outside and grab a pic but its past midnight and the grass is soaking wet from watering all night.
I will post a pic...
She was growing too tall, so I started tieing her down with those long landscape staples...
Every tie down, she would bend back up and I tie her again.
Now she has about a foot long stem running on the ground, kept creeping taller so I topped her, and now I have tied down each new sprout.
She has responded very well to both topping and bending.
I got a keep her super low cuz she's hidden between the grape leaves...
I'll harvest the grapes in July but Bitch wont be ready for harvest till September.
I will try and post pic 2moro....if i remember.
goodluck and i hope i helped somewhat.
HARD ON
thanks hard on. looking forward to seein that pic.
Man I'm getting tired of this topic. I must say though when it comes to one person championing bend its HARDDON.
Now understand how you got your name....lol
FUck I am stoned and jsut realized I took a pic of SLUT and not BITCH.
Here is a pic of a 6 foot tall plant who was topped, then she outgrew her cover and I had to tie her down.
The two main shoots in the foreground are the main kola site.
I tied her down as you can see with the green twist tie, right at the point of topping.
I have sinced topped every frickingtop I could find as she's growing too tall for comfort.
NO SEX SIGNS YET EITHER and she is about 63 days old.
i too have topped and tied my outdoor plants this year.
the first pic is the day i topped and tied this one.
and the second pic is of the same plant about 2 weeks later.
I noticed that each time i top outside plants, they stretch a lot. So i bend them but they spend more time to recover, i mean looking towards the sun again than indoor. Indoor, the day after they are OK, outdoor, they need 1 week.
Fhydro
freaking animals doing mine for me :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by fhydro
This info was given to me on this sight it came from a good source as u can tell. A little long but necessary to make its point. i hope it helps.
(i) always tiedown/position the longest of the dominant branches/sidebranch to the perpendicular of the sun's path - never parallel with it...and position it almost at equal level with the highest dominant shoots that are not being trained, and keep it there all its life(when further training) as the plant grows so as it is not considered a low priority for growth by the plant itself as it is growing. For if you tie it too far down, then the other highest/dominating shoots will take priority in the distribution of nutes and growing-energy by the plant itself. Keep it close to the higher levels, whilst still tying outwards away from them as much as possible without upsetting this balance too much...or the trained stem will grow alot less and slower thereafter. In fact - if you plan on growing her to massive proportions and you see she has the ability to do so, it would pay to do that to both opposing shoots if thye are equally long, if not pick another shoot on the opposing side that is similar in length and vigour. Again perpendicular to the suns' path, BUT in opposing directions. Then your plant will end up looking like a small stall of plants, instead of just one. The reason we stick to aligning the plant perpendicular to the sun's path, is so that BOTH sides of the shoot/branch are blasted with direct light every day. Half in the morning, and half in the evening. For it only takes a minimum of 4hours of direct sunlight to develope the plant and its buds to its average full potential. That way ALL the shoots and buds growing off this trained dominant shoot will have the chance to fully develop. Not just one side of them, as would be the case if it were trained parallel to the suns path - for it is offset from the direct Apex of the above sky(the suns' path that is). In fact, it best to train or encourage the growth of the plant as much as possible in this manner for maximising yield outdoors in the ground. If one is about to transplant a well vegged plant into the ground, it best they do so by placing in the same manner. IOW, the longest horizontal stretch of the plant perpendicular to the suns path. So that again, the maximum amount of the plant is exposed to both side of its' growth with direct sunlight every day. When I say the 'longest horizontal stretch of the plant' I am refering to the longest/widest part of the plant when looked at from directly above - 'plan view'. For plants rarely grow equally round - they always have an offset when viewed from above and looking down at them. Use this to your advantage by placing them so as to assure both sides of the growing plant are in direct sunlight - not just one side. As is the case with both, indoor growing under lights (hence the smaller yields before we even start, let alone the weaker less penetrating artifical light), and placing the girth of the plant parallel with the suns' path instead of perpendicular. For indoors, to fully delevop buds to their max potential, we need 11-12hours of direct artificial light upon them, irrespective of the power/wattage used. In the Sun - 4hours does the same job, even on overcast summer days when at least 80% of the sunlight penetrates the clouds, and over 95% of the UV bands penetrate them too. Hence why we get sunburnt badly even on overcast summer days. As the damaging UV bands travel through clouds as though they weren't there.