Could be MicroNute def or Shock. Pick and diagnostic attatched.

Attachment 295185Attachment 295186Attachment 295187

What is your experience level? (first timer, novice, experienced...)
Novice
Your Equipment:

.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's)
400 Watt MH
.2) Distance from tops?
Approx 3ft from base of pot (65 days in the ground)
.3) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...)
Bat wing
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply?
yes
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan?
Just circulation
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?
400w MH from Virtual Sun Hydro 24hrs

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)
Even amounts of Peat Moss, Perlite, Vermiculite
.8) Size of container.
15 ga Smart Pot
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings?
Germination

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's ph before adjusting?
Aerated Tap water, ph adjusted to 6.5 if necessary
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...)
Ph meter
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...)
Buffer solutions (UP-Down)
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule.
Fox Farm Big Bloom(every other feeding), Fox Farm Grow Big(every other feeding), one dose of Clonex (recentfor calcium? Calcium Nitrate listen as ingredient), One dose of Epsom (recent 1 tsp/ga for 3 ga on 10/2/13 at 8am EST, for possible mag), one dose of Open Sesame recent. the FF nutes are â??general feedings, and more recently as according to their growth chart but toned down slightly to prevent over fert). Occassionaly leaching with Microbrew and Kangaroots as directed by FF chart. Recent means with in the week of writing this (10/3/13)
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering?
Every other day approx. use Moisture Meter
15) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...)
One dose of epsom
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate?
stable
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph?
Ph is buffered, water descent from tap.
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray?
Just mistings, every feeding or watering

Your growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors?
indoor
20) What size of closet, room or hut?
4x8x8 (wxlxh)
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off?
Temps never above 80, comfortable humidity
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom?
Only spiders the good kind

Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?)
Not sure
24) From seeds or clones?
seeds
25) Is this an autoflower strain?
no
Other:
Topped early on several times, and low stress training implemented in later veg stage. Did flower for 48 hours to determine sex, then placed immediately back into veg. Did snap one main arms training at the stalk of initial toping sight (not completely still connected at top and bottom of main node), but have it splinted well and yoyoâ??d. Recently transplanted from a totally rooted 5ga plastic pot to a new 15 gallon smart pot.

By the looks of it Iâ??m boiling it down to either Mag or Cal deficiencies, heat stress, or physical stress from the training and transplanting. Iâ??ve been doing tons of research, comparing photos, searching different websites, comparing diagnoses charts and descriptions, but the variables are large enough to where I feel the need to ask to be sure. Sheâ??s a big plant thatâ??s has plenty attention, but something is slightly array.

The fact that the 3 week old clones (taken from this plant) are reacting the same way makes me want to rule out light stress because theyâ??re mostly under a t5 and much farther away from the mh. Also the older, lower leaves are fine and still a nice forest green, leading me to believe that itâ??s not a mobile nutrient thatâ??s lacking.

SHe's going to go into flowering any day now once another 400 watt hps kit comes in. Probably just give it a good flush, then feed and start flowering.

iron..maybe

try some ironite, 1-0-1 wont burn, its mostly a pigmentation thingi

otherwise they look great. Nute burn normally attacks the tips first (they will start to turn brown & get brittle)
also every other day for feeding nutes is too much. it takes about 3-4 days for nutes to get consumed & washed thru the cycle

also misting, can cause this. water on leaf's + light. Creates a microscope effect and burns your plant

I'll tone down on the misting, and the nute intake, intend for a flush shortly.

Upon further investigation i can provide a little more detail on the foliage.

The Petioles are a reddish, purple, however it stops just before the it hits the actual leaf leaving the underside of the leaf and veins looking fairly normal. The Main stalk also has verticle stripes of reddish purple.
The chlorosis begins from the outside of the leaf and seems to work inwards towards the veins but can also appear blotchy on "middle aged leaves". The newest growth is yellow and skinny, but the veins are still green, and the leaves don't seem to curl.
Fortunately I don't see any signs of necrosis, and if anything the environment is kept pretty clean. Those lights are on 24/7, so it gets pretty hot in there. The location is Southern New England, and the base of that smart pot is on a tarp that sits on the foundational concrete which can get cold at night.
The fact that the clones are showing these signs also must be a clear indicator to any expert grower(that is, multiple plants lacking or requiring a certain nutrient?).

too wet? wet 'feet' (bottom roots stay too wet)

hey guys "after what i have read" this look's like a lock out from nutrents but im a noobie but i have read allot about it, :)