Combat Red Spider

The red spider is another pest that causes does suffer to marijuana growers.

[align=center] Attachment 287978[/align]

First of all, and most important, is to know our enemy:

The red spider is actually a fairly cosmopolitan stretches especially in hot and soft climates.

Its name comes from the color of oxidized iron in the adult, but in earlier stages tend to have a greenish-yellow color that easily blends with the color of the leaves. Their adult size is between 0.5-0.6 mm. in length.

The colony of red spider moves from the lower zone of the marijuana plant.

It is installed on the underside of the leaf, where it feeds on the sap of the plant. Then appear as "alarm" spots or white dots as pinpricks along the midrib of the leaves, leaf can discolor even light green to gray. This would in principle of the pest.
If we ignore these symptoms, the leaves fade quickly and they will fall, even to see the fine should have created webs on the undersides of the leaves that are used by the spider mite to move more quickly through the plant.
If you are not remedied, colonization by red spider will total ... and begin to see parts of the plant completely covered with cobwebs of this disease, and results in the death of the plant.

The conditions for this pest are:

Temperatures between 28 º C and 30 º C favors their growth and expansion. At 30 ° C the egg-adult development of the spider mite can last only for a week. In conditions of temperature around 20 ° C increases development time from egg to adult in about 15 days.
As you can see, this plague is spreading fast, with which we must act as quickly as possible. Note that the setting of a female spider mite ranging from ten to a hundred eggs.
Humidity is an enemy of the mite, which even slow their reproduction, but you should bear in mind that high humidity is ideal for fungi.
You should also know that their spread cultivation depends both wind by contact between plants. Besides the red spiders are provided with hairs that allow them to adhere firmly to clothing or hair of pets that have let go home. Take this into account.

PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE:
Best thing you can do with all pest is prevention.
One of the little things we can deal with this mite is soaked with water spraying the leaves of the plant, and use an ultrasonic humidifier.
Check on all cuttings, which are the most common way in which the spider mite enters indoor crops. Usually by cuttings that have happened other growers. For this is good to have a small quarantine zone, and use it to watch over the new cuttings.

As repellent can be used onion skins scattered in the land of pots.

Also used as prevention of neem oil extract and potassium soap. Although these two treatments, often used in the flowering stage against the spider mite, are more effective for prevention or control s "scavengers" in a state of advanced red spider.
As a warning, if you have had an attack of red spider, is very likely to happen again, we must exercise caution in such cases.

INFECTION AND TREATMENT
Infection before flowering: End the damn spider mite is not easy, as a plague of mites not only have to destroy the mites, but also their eggs.
We must say that only the strongest and most toxic acaricides can to destroy the eggs.

As advice, we choose this products, to prevent the pest reaches the flowering of the plant, and also during flowering marijuana delete the rest of toxins that remain in the plant after the "treatment".
Yes you have to consider treatment to reach all parts of the plant, especially on the underside of the leaves. It is a laborious, but very important.

Some recommended are:
Red spider miticide Asocoa LU, Spydermite killer, Compo also.

Infection in bloom: The best has arrived (flowering) but also the worst since the mites are protected within the buds. Besides that ... we find that the plant is much bigger and harder to treat at the same time fulfill the security of acaricides is subject to time of flowering, is a countdown clock.

This period is not advisable to use miticides very strong, especially the flowering stage of the plant is advanced.
Ideally, try to control as much as possible and let the plague in a "minimal", and if possible, in fact, seek to eradicate but to use products "softer" will be almost impossible.
We refer to "difficulty in eradicating" because, as stated above mites are introduced to protect themselves in buds, this being a sensitive site for treatment.
A good treatment plan would make about 5-6 applications every 2-4 days.
A good method is neem oil, it is not toxic to humans, not harmful to pets, not bad taste when smoked.

There is a homemade recipe neem oil, from Argentina, because they have a tree which called "Paradise". For those who already know it, always neem oil as a product sold in any grow shop.
Make it clear that the neem oil, what it does is prevent the growth of the pest and help your sterilization because it destroys sexual communication, poisons the larvae and adults creating metamorphoses and mutations.

Its main assets are:

1. - Azadirachtin: Attack the hormonal system of insects, and causes not grow or if they do appear malformations or turn them sterile.
2. - Salannin: attacking the appetite of adult insects.
3. - Melantriol: acts on hunger, and they make sense of being satiated, thereby starving.
4. - Nimbia: An active against viruses and bacteria that often threaten crops.

As a final tip, if the infection is severe in bloom, donâ??t harbor false hopes of caring and curing plant, best is remove it from our growing area.

Hope this info will be useful and nice for everyone!
Have a great Monday :D