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Ok I have no idea wats going on, plants were fine just yesterday but I checked on them this morning and 2 of my plants have yellow leaves around the bottom with brown spots and the leaves are curled up and very brittle. Please help this is only my second grow and I never had problems the first time. But I switched to humboldts line of nutrients, do u think that could be the problem? Please help
No one has any idea?
You should probably post a picture
Sounds like nute burn but were going to need a heck of a lot more info. Soil or hydro? Chemical or organic, cycle info Ie:veg or flower? Put a pic up bro let us see what your little girl looks like. She could have a runny nose or full blown gongabegis, we cant tell from your description. Don't panic she can't be all that sick but heck what do I know I am just a dumbass musician with a penchant for cannabis in all her forms. Peace
Hydro, chemical nutes, veg. I'll post some pics as soon as I can
reduce feeding ppm to 300 flush plants regularly until the plant shows signs of accelerated growth and if your hydro then dial in ppm ph temp and they should snap back quick, just remember always run newts at 2/3 recommended values and adjust accordingly for the plant and conditions. Look newt burn is good to a point and now you have tested your plants limits but the best is it did not make it to the top of the plant and bottom leaves always show signs first.
even after 20 yrs i run 2/3 values.... good luck...
Thanks I'll drop the nute levels
What you describe is a Mg deficiency. Lack of due to low ppm or lock-out due to high pH. Mg deficiency is the only thing i've found to cause that problem over night. The brown spots are hard and the leaf feels rough/dry. Moist brown spots are a different matter just like moist yellow leaves.
First of all, correct neut level can't be determined until you give the age of the plant. May be like giving a whopper to a toddler or a happy-meal to a linebacker.250-300ppm is great for clone transitions and works well for the first 4-5 weeks. After that 650 works great but be sure to raise Mg to correct levels from 0 calibration. For clone transition use bottled water w/ Cal-Mag to 50-100ppm then add ferts to get 250-350ppm total. At the second stage up the Cal-Mag 100-175ppm then add ferts to get 400-550ppm. Keep the base Mg levels below 200ppm max for mature plants and add it to the water first. Check with your city and find out the level of metals in the tap water. PPM meters reads total metals, not specific metals. Water ppm may read 250 w/ only 50ppm of it being Mg. Took me years to figure out the answers to questions i couldn't find being asked but this is what i've learned so far. The problem is that there's sooo much to remember. or maybe that's the fun.
I know what you mean my hard drive moves a little slower now days....lol
I try to give general guidelines but nice .....
Icouldn't have laid it out better,
for all reading thread these are rules basically guidelines
to achieve a regulated feeding without the guess work.
I run 150cal-mag all the way through with base or acidic adjustments around the same 150ppm
ending up at right around 600 ppm.