WW's potted plant nute experiments.
Ok, this first post probably will be windy, several things to cover. First the baseline is:
All of plant life is in Ocean Forest, go from clone to 3" pot, to 1/2 gal pot, to 1 gal pot, to 3 gallon pot as a repotting schedule. Therefore I consider my soil part of my nutrient package.
I water with tap water, I use cal/mag 2 mL/5 gallons to get my pH down to 6.5. No runoff unless I intend on runoff, usually only the last 2 weeks of life.
I have tried many, many different nutrients, usually with poor success. Then one day I got to thinking. None of these labels say a total dose per plant... In Hydro, you can watch your ppm, no so in pots with no runoff. Even the minimums of the doses always seemed to burn.
Enter a new train of thought. Only give a plant a maximum dose of any given nute. Give at the suggested manufacturer time frame, just only give a total amount of the given nute......
Unfortunately anything learned after today will get imbedded in future posts and might get lost, so if you are looking for something specific, look by the name of the product in search within the thread.
Posters, please be very certain of your findings before you post recommended total doses for a planted pot. Let us try to not compare using potting products with extended release nutes, please. I would hope that your testing would determine a maximum and minimum safe dose rate, and if you found a toxic dose, advise. Again, pot size is terribly important in determination of how much to give as a total, pay close attention to this, and don't flush out the nutes until final flush to meet a similar criteria and we can compare apples to apples, not oranges and grapes and plums.
Phosphoload 4mL maximum per dose, can be repeated one time after 2 weeks. Vertical growth inhibitor.
Powdered bat Guano Do not use after plant goes to flower. Sprinkle a pinch on top of soil and gently mix in. One dose per pot...1/2 and 1 gal sizes. Source of Nitrogen.
Cal/Mag 2mL/5 gallons will replace all needs at any age. I also find that just happens to be the right amount to lower my pH. And why add something that isn't useful? Caution with using molasses at same time. Micronutrients.
Molasses Doses vary for many, myself I like 5 mL (1 tablespoon) per 5 gallons. Higher dosing with other mag containing nutes will burn, be aware of other nutes. Bud hardener, sweetener.
BloomBastic 1.0 ml per plant spread over 3 weeks to administer the entire dose. Start dosing at 4th week of flower. 1.5 mL is too much and will burn the plant. After third dose it should be time to consider flushing, or use other finishing nutes, but no more BB. Bud hardener, flower growth, adds bulk. (First signs of stress are nanners, be careful, is good nute but has risk!) Manufacturer warns not to give other P containing nutes at same time.
UltraSnowstorm Have not found a ceiling as plants come out of flower room. Begin giving the week after the last dose of BB, at 1 mL per watering, give every other watering. Been working on about 4 doses before coming out. (During this time plant is getting runoff, sort of lazy flushing.) Increases size and density of trichomes.
When do I stop giving nutes?
Rule #1 When a plant is sick. (Obvious why)
Rule #2 No nitrogen containing products after plant goes to flower room. (Effects taste a lot.)
Rule #3 Whenever possible do not give more than one nute per watering. (So if an issue shows one has an idea of what did what.)
Usually the last 2 weeks of flower, my exception is the Snowstorm. It has nothing toxic to me at all in it, does not effect taste.
Any nute that you feel is not good in your system should be stopped a month before harvest. Phosphoload is one of them in my opinion.
Now a few opinions on nutes. If you have a need to provide nutrition, understand why you are giving it...what you are going to provide to the plant and why....not just to apply nutes or not just because it is a schedule made by a nutrient manufacturer. Each plant and garden is going to have it's best production and limitations different from another. Information above fits the criteria of the potted plant in the stated method. Variations will make changes to what occurs.
I do measure my nutes with syringes and graduated cups. Expect changes 3 days after given, not one or two....unless you screwed up and OD'd the poor thing reading the graduated measurer....like I did one time. It happens to us all...LOL
I do hope this helps. I am not a proponent of a lot of extra stuff, the above nutes have specific reasons in my garden and are working well at the suggested doses. Not every plant gets every nute that is listed above either. It is not necessary for them all.
Whew...worn out.
WW's potted plant nute experiments.
what? could you rephrase what it is you would expect us to post about ? i feed using PPM .
WW's potted plant nute experiments.
I was afraid I would be confusing. I am....confused that is.
I am interested in developing a knowledge base of maximum amount of a nute you can give in a potted plant.....I use 3 gal pots, so pot size is important. This is not for hydro stuff, as that is indeed, by ppm. Which without runoff is impossible to tell in a given pot size.
Is that any better? It is confusing and took quite a while for me to get Rusty to understand the question too....so it is my inability to communicate well on this...sorry.
WW's potted plant nute experiments.
pot size is app.1/3 gal,soiless PROMIX....perlite....turface. nutes are JACKS 10-30-20, molasses,liquid karma.1 tsp mol...1/2 tsp lk...per gal every watering .at mid flowering 800 ppm of JACKS will burn the tips of the fan leaves, at 900ppm the edges of the leaves will brown also .at 1000 ppm the leaves will "claw" and growth will stop. applies to most indica/sativa crosses.
WW's potted plant nute experiments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WashougalWonder
I was afraid I would be confusing. I am....confused that is.
I am interested in developing a knowledge base of maximum amount of a nute you can give in a potted plant.....I use 3 gal pots, so pot size is important. This is not for hydro stuff, as that is indeed, by ppm. Which without runoff is impossible to tell in a given pot size.
Is that any better? It is confusing and took quite a while for me to get Rusty to understand the question too....so it is my inability to communicate well on this...sorry.
in order for this to be conclusive you need to pick a breeders strain as some strains are more nute hungry than others. ppm also is an issue as tap water tends to have a higher ppm than ro water even without nutes.
WW's potted plant nute experiments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MEDEDCANNABIS
in order for this to be conclusive you need to pick a breeders strain as some strains are more nute hungry than others. ppm also is an issue as tap water tends to have a higher ppm than ro water even without nutes.
increase light, increase temp,increase co2 and you can increase ppm.........need a baseline to work off of.....
WW's potted plant nute experiments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MEDEDCANNABIS
in order for this to be conclusive you need to pick a breeders strain as some strains are more nute hungry than others. ppm also is an issue as tap water tends to have a higher ppm than ro water even without nutes.
I have a concoction of strains, with a couple exceptions all are cannibis cup winners, so it is quality genetics to begin with. Yes, some plants can take more than others...I have one plant that I can give no more than 0.5 mL of the BloomBastic or it will really burn, just right amount and the plant is terrific,, since I have the only one in existence I didn't mention it. Figured it was a fluke of the genetics of the plant, which are half unknown.
