GROW TENT LIGHT PROOFNESS
I have 2 questions:
1) I have a 4x8x7 XXL grow tent in my garage, which I occasionally work in, and I am worried that light is leaking in through the vent flaps at the bottom. How can I fix the flaps to ensure no light is entering while im working in the garage with the lights on? Its not DIRECT light, but the lining is very reflective and I would imagine that light is getting to the plants. The vents are about 4x16. Also, I am having lights on at night for temp reasons...so dark period is in the day where light is coming through the garage window.
2) Is it possible to open to many of the vents/ports for passive intake? I have a 400+ cfm vortex fan pulling through a charcoal filter in my 4x8x7 tent with a 1k HPS. I can see where the walls will "suck" in with all ports velcro'd shut and only the intake vents open. I was opening all the extra ports so more cool air could be pulled in, then closing them at night.
Thanks,
SLG
GROW TENT LIGHT PROOFNESS
Hi there SeaLevelGrower,
1) If you can see the light of the grow tent, thru your garage window then light will surly be seen inside the tent when the light is off; either natural light thru the window or when you turn the lights on in the garage. Not a good situation beause 1-it's a hermie farm waiting to happen and 2-someone is going to tell at night you have and HPS light on all night. :(
2)Yes, especially if causes light leaks. I assume the Vortex is a 6" diameter, so with that a 4" passive opening is sufficent, tho if you don't believe in the physics of same volume out mean volume in moves faster thru a smaller opening, then use a 6" inlet. I would consider putting a 4" flange kit on it for intake, mount a flapper to it (like used for dryer outlets) so that it opens when the fan is on and closes when the fan is off. On the inside of the flange I would put at least one 90degree elbow, painted flat black inside, and put some sort of filter to the outside. This could be just a piece of nylon hosiery or a generic round car/truck air filter with a 4" opening.
A couple of things to consider doing also. You can run a 4" dryer hose from your inlet to the wall of your garage, drill a hole and mount a clothes dryer outlet and use it to get cooler air from outside, if it is cooler outside then in your garage. Also important is to get as much of that 1kw bulbs heat out. I would get an air cooled hood and attach a 6"diameter hose from one side of the hood to your Vortex fan / charcoal filter and leave the other side of the hood open. That way you can get air in, plus better cool the light all with one fan. Keep in mind that this needs to run whenever the light is on, ie; same timer.
Hope this helps, good luck growing. :thumbsup:
I just though of something else to add, but I just had a med induced brian fart, and can't remember what it was. If I can pull it from my poor old brain, I'll add it in another post.
GROW TENT LIGHT PROOFNESS
I got it now; if the sides of the tent pull in that is a good thing, you are creating negative presuure in the tent and know for sure that any odor will not escape. (at least while the fan is on) :)
GROW TENT LIGHT PROOFNESS
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaLevelGrower
1) I have a 4x8x7 XXL grow tent in my garage, which I occasionally work in, and I am worried that light is leaking in through the vent flaps at the bottom. How can I fix the flaps to ensure no light is entering while im working in the garage with the lights on?
I ran into the same situation, below are a couple pics of my cheapo solution. :)
Cardboard, reflective material, Velcro tape and some flex-duct. Just cut the holes in the cardboard under-size, so you get a *real* snug fit on the ducting. The Velcro mates with the tent securely. A side benefit is being able to pull your fresh air from where you please. :thumbsup:
It's worked well for me.
edit:
Website glitch, pics aren't uploading. :wtf:
Basically, cut some cardboard large enough to cover the port.
Cut holes in cardboard large enough to *barely* fit some flex-duct into. I used 6". The fit should be so tight that you need to practically screw the duct into it.
Attaching reflective material to the tent-facing side is optional. ;)
Use the Velcro tape on the 3 edges that mate with the strips on the tent.
A pic is worth a thousand words. :error:
end edit:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaLevelGrower
2) Is it possible to open to many of the vents/ports for passive intake? I have a 400+ cfm vortex fan pulling through a charcoal filter in my 4x8x7 tent with a 1k HPS. I can see where the walls will "suck" in with all ports velcro'd shut and only the intake vents open. I was opening all the extra ports so more cool air could be pulled in, then closing them at night.
I'd start with monitoring temps with one port open, open them one-by-one until high temp stabilizes. Once you find the sweet-spot, stick with it, no real need to open/close daily.
Like oldmac says; all your really doing is changing the *velocity* of the incoming air, not-so-much the volume, once you pass the point where the fan works most efficiently.
GROW TENT LIGHT PROOFNESS
As soon as my light went off I entered the chamber to see how much, if any, light was leaking through the vent flaps. To my amazement...barely any, if at all. I think, just to be safe I will add a piece of cloth or something that is a bit larger than the vent opening so the vent stays down but is light enough to let fresh air through. My exhaust fan stays on all the time. Should my exhaust fan be off when my light is off?
