Curled down leaves

For the most part things are going great with my first grow. Thanks to anyone who helped me, even if they didn't know it.:thumbsup:

I've been flowering for 35 days today. However over the last few days I've noticed a few leaves on both of my plants are what I think is called ram horn-ing. I THINK I read that means to much nitrate for flowering, but I can't remember for sure.

I've also had a few low canopy fan leaves turn yellow, and one had a brown spot that was kinda dried up.

I am using BC hydro nutes in soil, mixed at about 1/5th hydro strength, then just PH set(6.0-6.2) water every second and third watering.

Today was my second just water. My next watering would normally be nutes again. However I'd like to figure this out before I cause more issues. Do you think I'm burning it, or have a deficiency?

You can see it on a couple bud leaves in the first pic. Then I circled the leaves in the second pic (mid right side).

Thanks

Well I found the answer myself. :D

Turns out, many people who use Bushmaster get Rams horn from over nuting with it. I can't seem to find WHAT specific nutrient causes it. However, during the time you have the symptom, you also stop or have slowed bud growth.

Only answer I could find is mild flush and lower nutes. Then keep nutes a little lower after recovery!

So, new question is,.. What nutrient causes this? If I can figure out WHICH nute causes it, I can reduce whichever of my nutes contains that.

Late in flowering stage it's common to see either the ph drop as the buffers in your soil fade, or rootbound issues. Mild cases of either will cause the claw, but rootbound won't create a nutrient lockout condition like ph drop will.

When rootbound, water just flows through medium to the drip tray with virtually no absorption. This means the plant cant hydrate nor can it uptake nutrients.
Moderate ph drop will create a nutrient lock-out condition starving and yellowing the plant.

I always transplant into final pot about 2 weeks into 12/12. This avoids both issues unless it's a long-flowering sativa.

Without you filling-out the troubleshooting form, this is just a guess. But I'm very doubtful it's a nutrient thing as you mentioned. The Bushmaster may well contribute to root growth, but is likely not the cause of the claw per-se.

Although it would be like re-potting a small tree or bush. Is that what you suggest then Rusty?? Because with a friend I could repot! Although I'm not 100%, I think these are in 3 1/2 - 4 gallon pots(I thought they were to big, but they WERE cheap:D).

Although if that's what I need, it's what I need! :thumbsup:

OK, looking at my grow log. I've been in these pots for over eight weeks. three and a half still vegging, and five in flower.

I've always adjusted PH to about 6.0-6.2 using hydro. down.

I'm in Fox farms Ocean, with about 15% extra Perlite.

Running BC hydro nutes(starter kit) at about 1/5th hydro strength. Then watering with just PH set twice, before nuting again.

Room temps might hit 80 on a hot day. However, today I got a used cage fan to cool my hood I plan to install it later this week. Mostly it stays around 78 with lights on. 74 with them off(it's a 1000w HPS).

I have an oscillating fan that both moves air across the plants, but currently also moves air out of the room on it's cycle.

Humidity is about 41% round the clock.

I'm thinking it looks a lot like I should have re-pot a few weeks ago. Plus these are going to need HUGE pots. I may have to lay my tall plant over, because if it gets any taller(stopped about 2 weeks ago), it'll be above my light, or hitting it.

I have noticed the water flowing through the pot a little faster too.

Tell me what you think??

If gentle, a transplant would be ok. But you'll have a little extra stretching as the roots explore the new soil, so the height issue will still be an issue. Plus, a larger pot will likely raise the plant a little taller, too.

I think I'd leave her in the same pot, as it won't be long till harvest. But I would take extra care to assure a slow pour when feeding or watering to allow as much absorption as possible when you do. Don't fall into thinking you need complete saturation daily, as this could do more damage than good. (root rot if too saturated for too long)

Perhaps a handful of fresh soil on top of your rootball. (an extra 1/2 inch of soil) might be all you need to retain enough moisture, and finish her off. But again...might be enough fresh nutrients in the soil to make her stretch a bit.

Don't top 'em.

Any way to move the light to the side and tilt (angle) it twords the plants? You can gain a few inches of height doing this.

The girls were looking a bit rough today. So I'd forgotten, and didn't think about it until today, but I'd potted these kind of low in the pot because it was so huge.

After work they were dry. So I carefully layed the tall plant over, then slid the pot off the root ball. Then added about two inches of new soil under, and only about a 1/4 inch around the sides. Plus this didn't get any dirt on the plants like when I've flipped them completely over.

The LST was different. I found which side of the pot could be rolled onto (because it overhangs the pot a lot). Then gently pushed the branches on that side, away. Thus laying the pot on it's side and again sliding the pot off the root ball. Only issue here was I ended up with the previously almost level top being at and angle. The side that was a bit taller from stretch, is now way taller. However, underside access is easy now.

Both went quite well. Oh, and the tall one is getting a bit top heavy! :thumbsup: