Waste-Nothing Hybrid Hash?

So as next harvest day SLOWLY draws nearer, I've been been plotting just how to get the most from my little plant. I have decided to save about 1/3 of the best and prettiest buds to smoke, and make hash from the rest.

Since I want to let nothing go to waste from this plant, my plan is to use a screen first to collect any 'dry' hash that I can, and then make a honey oil extraction with the remaining material using a low temperature mason-jar and water bath still with acetone as a solvent. After making the honey oil, I want to blend the dry hash/kief back in to produce a more solid hash that can be smoked in a bowl or vaporizer as opposed to the runny/liquid honey oil.

Does anyone have any experience or advice on this? Would blending in dry hash solidify honey oil enough to make it smokable in a normal bowl with a screen?

Also, regarding honey oil, does anyone have any input on the following extraction plan:

The low temperature acetone still:

I've read about the various methods and debates between using high-proof alcohol, butane extraction, acetone, or industrial alcohol. I don't want to deal with potentially explosive fumes, and I don't want to have to waste my solvent by cooking it off into the air. I also don't want to have to worry about any impurities in my solvent that may or may not be completely evaporated from the final product. I'm crossing butane off the list right off, and would prefer to be absolutely sure that I'm only using a solvent that will be COMPLETELY boiled off of the final product.

What I'm planning on doing, then, is to construct a small low temperature water-bath kitchen stove still.

The plan is to start by placing a jar, say 3/4 full of acetone in a water bath heated to just above the boiling point for acetone on an electric stove (which is around 134 degrees F), the jar will have copper tubing connected to it's lid and run through a condensing coil submerged in ice-water. The end of this tube will drain into a second jar containing the dried and baked (to decarboxylize / activate) plant material.

I can be sure, then, that any impurities in the initial solvent with higher boiling points have been left behind in the first jar [Jar #1]. Once enough solvent has been collected in the second jar to completely cover the plant material, the first jar can be disconnected and put away until extraction is finished.

I then want to place a lid with a pipe stack on the second jar [jar #2], now containing solvent and plant material. The pipe will extend from the jar's lid, perhaps 2 foot vertical and be capped off. It will be cooled using ice so that the vapors which rise into it are re-condensed and drip back into the jar to be re-heated again. This jar will then be placed into the ice-water bath to sit for 15 or 20 minutes before it is removed and the solvent poured into the collecting jar [Jar #3] (This cooling stack is to allow the solvent to boil, while keeping the pressure in the jar low enough to be safe and not have to release dangerous fumes into the air or waste solvent)

Jar #2 would then be placed back under the outlet for the condensing coil, and the collecting jar containing solvent and dissolved THC would be placed back in the warm water bath. This time, the solvent should be completely evaporated from the collection (honey oil) side and returned to jar #2 with the plant material.

Once all of the solvent has been transferred again, Jar #2 will again be capped with the cooling stack again, returned to the water bath, and allowed to continue working on the remaining undissolved THC. Again, the solvent would then be strained off and returned to the collection jar (#3) along with the layer of honey oil already at the bottom of the jar from the previous cycle.

Once the cycle has been run through enough times to be fairly sure that nothing good is left to be extracted, the original solvent jar (#1) will replace jar #2 under the condenser drain. The solvent will be evaporated completely and returned to jar #1 to be reused at a later date (AKA next harvest)

Once all of the solvent has been driven off, the water bath can be replaced by a salt-water brine and brought to boiling temperature - this is to make sure that any impurities with higher boiling points, including any water which may remain, are completely driven out of the honey oil. Since it is still sealed and connected to the condenser, water vapor from the boiling brine won't be able to find its way into the honey oil - which hopefully will boil off any remaining impurities at this temperature (which due to the salt will be higher than the boiling point for water).

Anyway - that's the plan. Using this method, I think I can be fairly sure that nothing will go to waste, only the lowest boiling point solvent will ever find its way to the plant matter since anything else in the initial solvent will still be sitting in the initial pure-solvent container (having never been boiled off and passed through the condenser to begin with), and therefore I can be reasonably sure that the final product will be as pure and contamination free as possible. Also, since all of the solvent used is being re-condensed as it boils off and recollected, no dangerous fumes should be released into the air (and the container of acetone should last practically forever).

So like I said, that's the plan - I'd appreciate any design suggestions / tweaks anyone might have. Thanks!

i REALLY LIKE THE IDEA.MABEY YOU COULD TAKE PICS TO EXPLAIN BETTER

I've heard of heating a pyrex bowl over a warm plate of a coffee mug heater. Continuously stir the honey oil. After a few minutes it will dry out and be chunky or powdery. I saw a video of someone doing it on youtube. Think he called it cheese or buddha or something close to one of those.