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So i just got my TDC pen and had some ph adjusted water that i put my TDC pen in and it reads 345 this seems really high for just water with no nutes? Is this number even relevant?
When i do start putting nutes in my chart says 200-300 ppm for week 1 does that mean that i am adding 200-300 more nutes in? so essentially 545-645?
Im an idiot. TDS.. thats what i get for being high and posting
anyone though?
Your question must have fallen thru the cracks. Yeah 300+ is a little high ppm for clean water. You need to reverse osmosis it down to under 50.
The second question is often misunderstood. The high ppm in clean water is from calcium magnesium and other elements. When they say to put in 200 to 300 ppm they are referring to NPK; your base nutes. Next throw in a teaspoon of CalMag per gallon irrespective of how that effects your ppm (Hint: it will go heigher).
Last, enjoy!
Your base water EC when running RO water + calmag should be 300. Then you add the NPK type nutes on top of that.
Your water may technically be considered 'hard water', and there is I believe a selection of hydro nutes designed to be used with hard water- you'll want to google 'hard water hydro nutrient' for more info. If you can't get the hard water nute formula, or RO water, you might consider doing a soil grow.
OK so my bad.. today I was trying to figure out how my bottled water could be 6 ppm and the water I checked could have been 300+... it was because I was checking ph adjusted water... When I ran in from the sink to a cup it was about 68ish with a pH around 7-7.5 ... Is this within good range? Does this mean that calmag+ is still needed?
Okay, if I am understanding you correctly, you were doing your TDS/EC reading AFTER adding your pH adjustment- right?
Here's a better order in which to do this:
Pour your water and measure the EC right outta the tap.
If it is significantly below 300 parts per million, add CalMag Plus up to 300ppm.
This gives you fake 'tap water', lol.
Then add your nutes to the desired level.
Then last, adjust the pH. Your pH up/down does in fact add ionic strength the the water, so check it last.
Good luck1!
You can if you want do it the way Stinky suggested, most gardeners do. However, you should try doing it in reverse (almost) order.
RO your water (don't worry about ppm) and add your base nutrients, your micro and your calmag. THEN check your water's pH. Without touching your pH up or down you should be right on. If you are off then use a little up or down. Try using as little as possible, its not good for your water.
Actually Herbie and I are saying the exact same thing in regards to your original problem- adjusting pH before adding your nutes etc.- the pH check is your last step. His instruction is for if you have an RO machine handy- if so, lucky you! You might not be able to use my way if your tap water really sucks goat balls.