View Full Version : Comes a Time, First Grow, Please Step Inside -- 2000 watt Sour Diesel
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 04:11 AM
Okay gang, first off I would like to thank some fellow cannabis.com members, you know who you are - Blue, Harris, Faith, I do appreciate all the help given thus far. I got four clones about two weeks ago, and they have been under the 1000watt HID lamp.
Today, I received thirty five more clones. The root structure on them is great, I am very confident these will work out just fine. They do appear quite droopy as of now, but they were just transplanted very recently. I think they will reach up for the 1000 watt lamp very soon.
I transplanted the clones into Sunshine #4 about four hours ago. Some of them appear a bit droopy, but I am sure they will respond to the light within a day or so. I have enclosed pictures on both the old clones (about two weeks old), and the new clones that I just received today, but thy appear to be a week at least as well (anyone care to comment?)
The lamp is three feet from the newly transplanted clones, and about 2.5 feet from the larger ones. I plan to get wood in the next day or so to raise the little babies, so they aren't getting light stolen from the older sisters. pH of my water is 6.0 and I have not started to give them nutes just yet. I plan to within 48 hours. I was thinking 300 PPM for all of them, anyone care to comment? Thanks in advance and please stop by again! Thanks cannabis.com!
P.S Older clones are in between 7.5 inches to 9 inches as of now.
Have tried to upload the pictures several times, keep getting a page can't be displayed page, maybe our server is down? Will update later!
chicago_white_guy
11-27-2006, 04:31 AM
your pics may be too large.... dunno
sounds like you're off to a great start.
don't lose focus
it can be rough
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 05:50 AM
Still won't upload, maybe I will try from another computer shortly. In any case, the new clones look droopy as hell, but I think that's somewhat common. Need to give them a day or two to settle in...
Garden Knowm
11-27-2006, 05:52 AM
Hi RAZZ
I very much look forward to your pictures..
keep a very very close eye on your new kids under the HPS...
Do you have a fan or ventilation pulling/blowing the heat away from your canopy?
300PPM sounds fantastic....
Congrats on all the new KIDS..
love
love
love
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 07:19 AM
Here are the pictures. Check back soon folks, I think these babies are going to jump out at the light shortly. Thanks for all the help cannabis.com
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 07:21 AM
The pictures finally worked! What do you guys reccomend with the taller guys? I was almost thinking of topping them later on
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 07:32 AM
The pictures finally worked! What do you guys reccomend with the taller guys? I was almost thinking of topping them later on... thanks for coming by
Splifted
11-27-2006, 07:33 AM
Top a few and don't top a few, see what works best. Some strains respond very well to topping, others it reduces yield. Make sure to keep one clone as a momma to take more clones from, that way you can grow the same thing out a few times and perfect your technique to maximize that strain's potential :)
Really nice looking room man. I see your light has the fittings for air cooling, does it have the glass in it already so you can connect a fan or is it open air right now? And are you planning on connecting a fan across it? I have a cool tube on my 1kw HPS and it helps a lot with the heat. I can't wait to see that room full of giant nugs :dance:
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 07:36 AM
Top a few and don't top a few, see what works best. Some strains respond very well to topping, others it reduces yield. Make sure to keep one clone as a momma to take more clones from, that way you can grow the same thing out a few times and perfect your technique to maximize that strain's potential :)
Really nice looking room man. I see your light has the fittings for air cooling, does it have the glass in it already so you can connect a fan or is it open air right now? And are you planning on connecting a fan across it? I have a cool tube on my 1kw HPS and it helps a lot with the heat. I can't wait to see that room full of giant nugs :dance:
Only planning to top the four if any, just to keep the height relatively uniform. The strain is Sour Diesel, and I def. plan to keep at least one clone to make a moma. I have room for air cooled hoods, no glass is currently in the hoods, but it could be added easily. My temps are fine for right now, but within a week or so the ventilation will be hooked up through the lamp that is already up, and then through another lamp to be added prior to switching to 12.12.
santacruz_organic
11-27-2006, 07:46 AM
yo razz, hit me up on my email
[email protected]
faithless
11-27-2006, 12:16 PM
Looking very nice, you'll be developing the room as you go along. Clones are droopy initially.
.
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 04:25 PM
Yep, room will be changing almost weekly... always more stuff to buy and more money to spend. Next up is a better fan, a lock for the door, and something that will keep light from coming in under the door, this way the room can be closed off. I then plan to switch to 18/6. The door has been open alot, and the room is getting a nice draft from outside, have to assume my temps are going to go up alot when the room is closed. I have to get that ventilation up, problem is I can't afford a fan just yet. My temps are usually 74-80 with the door open, do you guys think it will be far too hot in there if I close the door?
faithless
11-27-2006, 04:32 PM
Yes, I do...
But total reflection isn't alwasy necessary, check this lighting out:
http://www.youtube.com/verify_age?next_url=/watch%3Fv%3DCkIzFlO2gJM
.
razzapiggy
11-27-2006, 05:20 PM
Quick question here guys... the clones look less droopy today, still some that appear to be showing no signs of improvement. They were transplanted about 18 hours ago now. I just got a voice mail from my buddy who gave em to me, and I could not hear the entire message but I did hear him say to use what I thought sounded like "B1 Solution" when transplanting. Here is my question: I have a grow shop near the town I live in, although the clones have already been in there 18 hours, should I cruise down there and buy something to help them get adjusted? Or should that have been done at the initial transplant and now it's a little late? The root systems were very nice on the clones, and I felt like they might be okay on their own, but maybe I am second guessing myself a bit? I can make it to the store after work today at 5:00... what ya guys think
santacruz_organic
11-27-2006, 06:55 PM
you can get some vitamin b1 from sc hydroponics but if your roots have shown then i would just let them do their thing. make shure the soil and water is warm and that they are always moist.
razzapiggy
11-28-2006, 01:41 AM
Got some b1 from the store, gave it to them. Should have been done when transplanting, but this is better than nothing. Clones look alot better, most are rising up to the "sun" alot more. Also raised the lamp to five feet, the guy at the store told me you don't want them as close as three feet, he said give em a day or two at five, and drop it back down - don't want to stress the babies. He also suggested part of the reason for the droopy-ness was indeed because the light was too close to them. Forgot to check the temp of my water, what should it be at santacruz?
razzapiggy
11-28-2006, 01:59 AM
Also wanted to post one more question...
I have the lights 24 hours on right now, but I want to switch that to 18/6 real shortly. Unfortunately my ventilation is not set up yet (that's next) I am concerned about the room being too hot (when the door is closed because the lights are off) and also... we have carpets and not much light should get under the door at all, but I should be pretty careful about that as well right? Would a small hallway light effect it if a few rays got under the door during their light cycle? If so, can I wait a day or two to switch over to 18.6? Thanks in advance guys.
razzapiggy
11-28-2006, 02:18 AM
Would a small hallway light effect it if a few rays got under the door during their light cycle? If so, can I wait a day or two to switch over to 18.6?
^^^^^ That should read if a few rays got under the door during their DARK cycle not light...
Thanks
razzapiggy
11-28-2006, 07:10 AM
Clones are very much appreciating the dose of B1 they were given tonight, they are looking so much better already! Light was also moved up to 5 feet above the baby clones, as instructed by the person who gave them to me. I figure give 'em a day or two at this height, and then drop the light about a foot once new growth is starting to show. Not many appear stunted at all, very happy with the results so far. Will post some pictures in a few days!
razzapiggy
11-28-2006, 05:29 PM
Welp, gave em some nutrients last night around 11 PM, figured they could use it. The clones look wonderful today! All but one standing up completely on its own, and looking healthy. I am sure they are a bit confused as to why they got a dose of B1 followed by nutes like 6 hours later, but they are looking better than I could ask for. Tonight I think I will just give them straight water for feed, you guys agree? How much water do you guys generally give em this young? I gave a half cup with the B1, and a half cup with the nutes, so perhaps they won't need water for a little bit?
Thinking about getting the timers all set up, and trying to close off the room today so that I can give these guys a rest. I think 18.6 is better for them than 24 on, but it seems that either can be used effectively.
razzapiggy
11-29-2006, 02:56 AM
Realize nobody has really responded to my thread for a little while, but I'm going to update anyhow... clones look awesome! Couldn't be happier, they bounced back in a huge way. Moved the lamp down to 4 feet above the babies, and also bought a 6 inch Vector fan to hook up to the ceiling shortly for ventilation. Will post pictures within a day or so
chicago_white_guy
11-29-2006, 03:56 AM
i'd love to follow your postings, and will from now on, but do yourself a favor and go to Radioshack and get that 6 mp camera they have for like 100 bucks. make sure you get the memory card for it too, at least a 1gb :)
razzapiggy
11-29-2006, 04:18 AM
The camera I am using is 5.1, does it really make a huge difference, even that .9? Do my pictures blur? They look fine to me...?? Stop back by Chicago Guy!
Garden Knowm
11-29-2006, 06:11 AM
more pictures please
:)
razzapiggy
11-29-2006, 05:40 PM
More pictures coming tonight. Clones look good, with some new vegetation appearing at the tops of em. A few appear a bit droopy, boy is it hard to know when these ladies are healthy? I gave em a cup about 34 hours ago now, and the SunShine#4 is still moist for sure. A few look thirsty though. I will post pictures tonight...
razzapiggy
11-30-2006, 02:07 AM
Hello Friends,
I am adding a few pictures, though not a ton of action a few people requested more pics. To any newbies to growing, checking the difference between the first installment of pictures, and the second... look at the difference! I simply used some B1 and these puppies perked right now. Can someone comment on the spot on one of the leaves in the picture with the four plants? The leave is in the upper left hand corner area.
Also added a picture of the pots I am using, it's 100 MM sq tall it says on it. I am watering these guys a cup a day, is that the right amount? They benefit more if given half a cup during the morning and half a cup at night right? Thanks, and any comments are appreciated.
razzapiggy
11-30-2006, 02:07 AM
P.S Light is four feet above these guys, can it be moved down soon?
puffin tuff
11-30-2006, 02:16 AM
yes you can get the light closer ,but go slow cause the clones are still fragile at this stage.With proper ventilation you can get it pretty close to em.without it I would not go much closer than 3 ft above them until they take off alitle more.
razzapiggy
11-30-2006, 05:31 AM
Ventilation gets set up within the weekend. Bought a PPM meter, kind of weird, I put 1 tea spoon in 4 liters of water, and it's reading over 700PPM - what gives? My tap water is in the 240's...does this sound right?? What does everyone else think about lowering the lights about 6 inches prior to the ventilation getting set up?
razzapiggy
11-30-2006, 06:12 AM
Can anyone comment on my watering patterns please? I am a bit unsure how to feed them effectively, sometimes the Sunshine#4 will still be very moist, but I can tell the plant is thirsty, so I give it more water. Without being able to do a soil test it's kind of hard to know how much water they want. I did notice a tiny bit of droopy-ness this am after 36 hours after each being given a cup. I guess a cup every 24 hours seems logical? Thanks in advance...
Cornelius
11-30-2006, 06:43 AM
if you let them get a little dry it will encourage the roots to grow more. I don't know too much a/b clones, but i know it works this way in regular plants.
razzapiggy
11-30-2006, 07:21 AM
Yeah, I am trying to find the comfortable medium really. I have read it's good to let em dry, but not start to droop as that's stress that isn't needed. My problem si that I have a hard time knowing when to water them besides basing it on time and the fact that I observed they started to droop a tad at about 36 hours... anyone else have input? Especially someone using SunShine, this stuff breathes quite a bit!
TheKidThatLovesMary
11-30-2006, 09:22 AM
:confused: Where did you find sour diesel seeds???
Garden Knowm
11-30-2006, 06:19 PM
Hi RAZZ..
I am assuming that your kids have all rooted... you want to bring the light as close as possible without burning your plants.. A method that you can use is the HAND method.. Put your hand at the TOPS of your plants.. If your hand is comfortable with the heat, then your plants should be fine..
7-14 days after your plants have rooted HID lights should be no further than 12 inches from your foliage (if you want maximum yield).. This may require your to exhaust your lights or get a fan and angel it up toward your light.. Blowing the heat up and away from your BABIES..
Thanks for all the pictures.
lovelovelove....
If you plant to veg for more than 14 days, you will need transpant into 3 gallon comntainers...
Will you be cloning?
BlueBear
11-30-2006, 06:44 PM
Hey bro I am finally tuning in to your show. First thing, try to get a moisture meter from a garden store or Wally Mart, they are only a few bucks and they even have some that are both PH and moisture meters in one for about $10.00 and they are a nice tool to have around which can help you get used to your babies feeding habits.
Also, once you introduce any dark periods you want to have all light leeks taken care of or else plants can go hermy or have other problems that are stress related, especially in flower. Like GK said if veging for more than 2 weeks you will want to eventually put into 3 gal or more and that being the case make sure you map out a plan in order to fit all of them in your room under the lights with 3 gal pots which can take up quite a bit of room. I use square trash cans that I picked up from Wall Mart for under 2 bucks and they work fine, you just have to drill about 3 dozen holes in the bottom for good drainage.
Well, I wish the best for you and welcome to the world of growing..
Adieu
razzapiggy
11-30-2006, 11:42 PM
Hey Guys
You are two of the people I wanted to drop by this thread - much appreciated.
To answer the questions popped at me...
Yep, plan to veg for about three weeks, well aware they will need three gallon pots, thanks for the heads up! Plan to transplant a few days before I put them to 12.12
They are going to take up alot of space, that's why I have *two* 1000 watt lamps, not one :thumbsup:
I will go check out the moisture meters and buy one, only problem is... I have found that even when the SunShine#4 is still moist as hell (thus the meter will tell me no need to water) the plant is thirsty. Guess this means my plants are losing alot of water through their leaves?
Known- Yep, my clones are well rooted now. I would think so anyhow, they have been in there for about four days now and are growing great. I am really scared to burn them, so I had it at four feet. Given your instructions, I just lowered it to about 37 inches off the tops of the plants - will keep a close eye on them since I am done with work for the day. Also pointed the fan so they blow warm up...
Thanks for the info, will keep you guys posted. I have a feeling they are going to shoot up quickly with the light this close.
razzapiggy
11-30-2006, 11:45 PM
P.S Knowm you asked me if I am cloning. The answer is, yes and no. I do plan to clone for sure, however I have to leave town for 9 days on the 18th. Since I won't be around for that 9 days, I am not sure they would given enough attention to live while I am gone. But actually, upon thinking about it, I would want to grow my mother out for at least three-four weeks prior to taking clones off, correct? What type of lamp would I need to support the mommy? I am running low on cash but could see what I can come up with prior to leaving... Thanks again!
santacruz_organic
12-01-2006, 03:59 AM
yo razzy, check out my set up. it has 6 40w flourecents in three fixtures. i was growing my mothers under this but only have clones. i also grew a whole operation with flouros but it didnt turn out verry well.
santacruz_organic
12-01-2006, 04:00 AM
heres the pics:rasta:
all this stuff costed under $50
razzapiggy
12-01-2006, 04:12 AM
How does flowering with the six 40 watt flouros work out for you? What type of investment? Appreciate the help...
razzapiggy
12-01-2006, 04:13 AM
In my past comment, I meant how does it work out for you for growing your mother, and then cloning? Do you have seperate lights for the clones or that's it? Sorry, forgot to add I'm talking about clones in the last post, I'm stooned.
razzapiggy
12-01-2006, 04:13 AM
Looks like you have the clones under the flouros, where is mom?
BlueBear
12-01-2006, 08:32 AM
I have grown out mothers under 6x23 W CFL's, but my 175 MH works better and IMO the T5's are probably the best way to go. As far as your plants looking hungry even when the SunShine is still moist, you may have low humitity in the room, maybe trying to sit a pale of water in there for a few days and see how they act, or try misting them with a spray bottle for about a week and see how they react.
Well, wify is trying to get me to bed, and a happy home is pretty important to me, so Adieu
razzapiggy
12-01-2006, 05:09 PM
Thanks BlueBear! Okay here comes a real stupid question folks. I am using SunShine#4 which is hydro, but it looks just like soil. I am hand watering them. I use Supernatural Gro Terra for vegetative nutes. I have a quick question here. On the nutes it says, "For organic soils: Use up to double strength. Apply every 2-3 weeks depending on rate of growth and fertility of soil." Now, I thought the guys at the store told me to only use this every 7-10 days with the SunShine#4, but I am getting the feeling it should be used every time I water, does anyone know? I used about 1/2 the reccomended dose for small plants, just to be sure. But, should I be using the mixture with the Supernatural in it everytime I water? A quick reply would be great as I think I've been doing this wrong.
razzapiggy
12-01-2006, 06:00 PM
Answered my own question, just gave a hydro store a call - they said to give the plants the SuperNatural just about everytime they get watered, and to salt leach every other week to prevent nutrient lock out. Thanks gang! More pictures by the weekends completion....
santacruz_organic
12-01-2006, 06:23 PM
i cloned my mothers to no return. thats why there are none left. check out theese pics though! flouros work!
Garden Knowm
12-02-2006, 02:46 AM
MJ looses 99% of the water it drinks through its leaves.. TRANSPIRATION
Transpiration accounts for approximately 10% of all evaporating water on planet earth.... AMAZING
2 - 1000 watt bulbs - YUMMY!!!
razzapiggy
12-02-2006, 03:34 AM
Yeah, I will try putting some buckets of water in there, we will see how that works. Just makes knowing when they need water a little bit more challenging. I am giving them about a cup over the course of 24 hours, sometimes 1/2 a cup and then 1/2 cup 12 hours later, sometimes a full cup right in the AM. Seems to be working thus far. Have their nutrients up to 320PPM. How long should I wait until they receive the full dose of nutrients? The box of nutes says 700PPM, 350PPM for young plants. I will bring it up to 400 when I water them tomorrow I think.
BigWeed
12-02-2006, 04:16 AM
Yeah, I will try putting some buckets of water in there, we will see how that works. Just makes knowing when they need water a little bit more challenging. I am giving them about a cup over the course of 24 hours, sometimes 1/2 a cup and then 1/2 cup 12 hours later, sometimes a full cup right in the AM. Seems to be working thus far. Have their nutrients up to 320PPM. How long should I wait until they receive the full dose of nutrients? The box of nutes says 700PPM, 350PPM for young plants. I will bring it up to 400 when I water them tomorrow I think.
hey razz just bring up the ppms up just every time you feed them. Using the sunshine #4 mix only can be tricky because you cant geuss on how much to feed them. The next time you transplant Im just saying mix some wormcasting and find some potting soil with a low npk # and you wont have to water or feed as much as you are doing. If you want fast results next time try doing a DWC hydro grow thats what you want to be doing the resulst I get are great.:rasta: :pimp:
razzapiggy
12-02-2006, 07:01 AM
Not exactly sure what a DWC hydro grow is... will look into it. My friend uses straight SunShine#4 and is having great results, I was planning to keep it that way, though I am needing to water them quite a bit. I suppose a little bit of potty soil could be mixed in with the SunShine#4 just to make the mix retain water better. The good thing about Sunshine (as I believe, and was also told this by the friend who gets great results) is that it's very hard to give the plant too much water, the sunshine will breathe very nicely. So giving them some extra water on a less frequent basis becomes less of a problem. I will def. consider what you said about putting some potting soil in there, thanks. What is npk by the way?
BlueBear
12-02-2006, 09:25 AM
Ah Razz, NPK is something that you need to know to build up your basic foundation. N* Nitrogen, P* Potassium K* Phosphorous . These are the major macro nutrient make ups in all fertilizers. In veg you need a nute with a high N and in flower you will want a nute that is high in P and K. You will find this on all fert bags and bottles. I am giving you a basic description, but you want to take about a half hour and do some reading on the MJ plants need for NPK and how it plays a major role in having a good grow, as a matter of fact here is a link for you, www.marijuanagrowing.com/article.php?sid=26 .
Get the moisture tester and you will save your self allot of guess work on the watering thingy IMO. DWC is "Deep Water Culture.
" I have a thread in the hydro section titled "Water Farm/DWC club where you can pick up some idea on what it is as people dialog back and forth, but in short it can be set up using a 5 gallon bucket with a net pot in the lid of the bucket that holds grow rocks and your plant. You fill the bucket with your water/nutes and get a $10 air pump from Wally Mart and get these little $1.50 air stones that they use in aquariums and place two in the bottom of the bucket and the water is saturated with O2 as the air stones produce bubbles in the water and splash onto the roots of your plant feeding it and watering it. The plant is able to experience amazing growth because un like in soil where the plants roots have to stretch out threw the soil to find food and water, the nute/water is given directly to the roots every second and the plant is able to focus its energy on growing buds instead of roots. When done right, up to 3 ounces can be harvested from one plant with a veg time no longer than 3 weeks and in soil this is a really hard thing to do..
Adieu
BlueBear
12-02-2006, 09:40 AM
Corecction, "N* Nitrogen, P* Potassium K* Phosphorous" is wrong, correctway , N* Nitrogen, P* Phosphorous K* Potassium is right way. LOL
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-02-2006, 06:49 PM
Ahh, yes I have seen friends do it this way indeed. Thanks for the info. I am off to home depot to get some stuff so I can set up the ventilation for the lights today, then I can close the room. Of course, shortly after that ventilation for the room has to be done so the fresh air is always coming in. I can leave the door of the room open slightly during the day, but at night it needs to get closed. I have no carbon filter yet, but that will be soon, and then I can hook the carbon filter up, and begin to get fresh air in my room all the time. Will get a moisture meter as well. Thanks again! Will keep you guys updated.
P.S These clones are growing at a crazy rate! Seems like everyday they have formed new leaves - I just can't believe how fast the process is. It must be amazing to see it with DWC, an even faster method. Will update with pictures later on... thanks gang!
razzapiggy
12-03-2006, 03:46 AM
Bit of a road block here, setting up the ventilation right now and realized I never put the tempered glass in the 1000 watt lamp. You have to unscrew it on one side to slide it in the panel, and I can't get enough force with the light already hanging. I don't want to take the lamp down and do the work from the ground as it might confuse the plants I would guess? Anyone care to comment?
KindMidasSoundman
12-03-2006, 05:18 AM
Hi everybody!
Just wanted to introduce myself since I have been kind of lurking around this thread since it started. I am a huge fan of Sour Diesel, and I have been planning a project similar to this for a while. I will be watching and learning if that is OK with everybody here. I know there is a lot I can learn from some of the people here, and beeing a noob I need all the help I can get.
TIA
razzapiggy
12-03-2006, 06:14 AM
Howdy folks... Hope everyone is doing well!
I just set up my ventilation and for now the circuit is open, so it's airing out the room, but will become a closed circuit when I attach it to the vent in the floor, and cold air will come in through that vent (I enclosed a picture of the vent) Also set up the fan suspended in air with bungee cords, and the air getting pushed into the attic. Little bit of a celebration, one step closer to having a stable room!
Few questions for the seasoned vets:
a.) I already posted this, but this is a stupid question to have to ask. My lamp got set up without the glass in the hood, I am a moron, but the glass was in my girlfriends car at the time. I have tried unscrewing on the side to get it in, I can't create enough force to get the screws out. Unfortunately I only bought one veg light, so I can't simply put the glass in the other 1000 watt and then fire up the veg light, then put the glass in this one. What the hell am I to do? lol.
b.) Although the fan is suspended in air, it's still quite noisey to be honest! It can be heard outside of the room, and I am not sure how to makes things a little more quiet - I figured suspending the fan in air would help. I would assume it will become a little quieter once the circuit is closed, as you won't be able to hear as much of the suction. I can't imagine it will decrease the volume THAT much though. Perhaps a fair amount of noise is also being created from air coming in under the door. Anyone care to comment?
About to give the plants 400 ppm distilled water shortly. I know the pictures are a bit dark, I am a bit pressed for time right now but I will update soon. Amazed at how fast these ladies are shooting up, leave structure looks pretty tight - happy so far! Thanks for all the advice guys, you are great - I am trying to pass on what little I do know to the community, it's a great thing we have going on here! Cheers! :rasta: :pimp:
--KindMidas, thank you for reading the thread. Stay posted, I am going to be updating as frequently as possible. While I am very impressed with the advice given by a few members of this forum and will benefit from it greatly, I do hope some can learn from my simple mistakes and questions. And if you are trying to plan a 2000 watt grow, you can learn some without question! I am new to this as well so I will sometimes be posting in great detail - alot of folks here will be able to give you advice if you have taken a step in the wrong direction. My advice to you from my current position is to get the lamps set up, get your clones, and try to do things step by step (requires lots of money, and a fair amount of time) I of course have a luxury that most might not, and that's plenty of space, not sure what you are planning. --
Best of luck to all! :thumbsup:
Garden Knowm
12-03-2006, 06:41 AM
Hey RAZZ... I always mount my fans to a piece of wood with a bicycle tire or like piece of rubber between he wood and the fan.. Hanging it seems smart..
I will keep turning this one around in my head.. Although, my first thought is hanging a blanket in the room... ideally on the walls closest to the fan.. Blankets absorb NOISE.. very well actually!
iloveyou
My second thought is to record yourself banging the bee-jeezus out of your girlfriend and play it in a loop over and over.... to cover/mask the sound of the fan..
iloveyou
You can' t get the screw out to put the glass in? Have you tried w-d40? Basically the screw is stuck? Is there away you could drill a new hole and mount it differently...
Do not use duct tape.. it will not hold... LOL...
cheers
I REALLLY REALLY appreciate the pictures!!!!!
razzapiggy
12-03-2006, 06:59 AM
W-D40...no I haven't. It's just that I can't get enough force to get an already hard to get out screw. Because the light is already hanging. It's such a stupid problem, all I had to do was put it in to begin with but oh well. I am planning to try to close the circuit very shortly, but if I can't get the glass on the lamp can't be moved as close to the plants as it should be. Ugh, lol. Will try out the blanket idea. Keep ya posted Knowm, I will have better pictures soon brother man. And guess, the lady deserves some good love making, she has been a huge help thus far!
razzapiggy
12-04-2006, 04:39 AM
Also thinking of maybe putting those egg cret things that people use to line studios up in the grow room... perhaps those would absorb a bunch of noise?
santacruz_organic
12-04-2006, 06:31 AM
those work well. i sound proofed my dads house with tire-inline tubes i got at the dump, just a thought.
BlueBear
12-04-2006, 06:52 AM
You could hang blankets on all the walls and then cover with your reflective material.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-04-2006, 06:17 PM
Cool thanks for the advice guys, will weigh my options. I am approaching yet another important decision here. I have to leave town on the 18th of Dec for 9 days. I was planning to start flowering right prior to leave as the plants generally require less attention right when they start blooming than later on. Well, my clones are about 8-9 inches tall already, and I feel like I want to start flowering this Sunday (the 10th) I would then be leaving 8 days later, but will have a friend who can come by to do waterings etc. Would I be better off just waiting the additional week so I don't have to worry about the work he is doing quite as much? Is the second week of flowering much more crucial than the first? Any advice is appreciated
Splifted
12-04-2006, 06:25 PM
While I am very impressed with the advice given by a few members of this forum and will benefit from it greatly, I do hope some can learn from my simple mistakes and questions.
Yes, man, the best way to learn something is to fuck it up. Having problems and figuring out how to correct them will teach you more than having a perfect grow out of luck your first time. But very nice job so far man. Looks like lots of us noobs are doing pretty good our first time around :) You can definitely tell who did their homework before starting :thumbsup:
razzapiggy
12-05-2006, 05:20 AM
Got the glass in on both lamps, the closed circuit ventilation is all set up now so the light that is responsible for vegging the 40 clones is now at 20 inches above the plants - about ten inches closer than it ever has been. I bet they are going to shoot up. Already about 9-10 inches tall, only had em a week. Now, I need to get a carbon filter, and get some ventilation for the room (what do we call this?) Do you guys vent the air from the room the same place as the hoods? I have an attic above me, and a bathroom to my right... will post pictures soon guys!
razzapiggy
12-05-2006, 06:34 AM
I don't have a thermometer that stands up in soil, but I placed my digital therm. right around the canopy and left it there for a while... reads 71 degrees. Does this mean I should lower the lamp a bit? I believe 18 is the lowest most people go right? Also, anyone care to comment on the decision of when to flower? Thanks gang.
BlueBear
12-05-2006, 08:31 AM
Try to lower it down to at least 12 inches, and 8 to 10 inches if possible, but 10 is a good rule of thumb for me because at 8 inches you can lose some of the light coverage to the plants on the edge of the light foot print.
Flipping to 12-12 really kind of depends on how much head room you have, remember if you let them get any taller than 18 inches you can end up with some 5 or 6FT plants and that with the pots will make them pretty tall. Also, I like to keep the plants under 5 at around 3 or 4 that way the light can get to all of the plant and not just the upper half.
Well, good luck, and PS. vent up if you can.
Adieu
Garden Knowm
12-05-2006, 04:06 PM
pictures .....
razzapiggy
12-05-2006, 05:48 PM
Holy shit!!! These ladies are growing so freaking fast with the light lower! I swear they grew over an inch in the last twelve hours since lowering it. I will upload pictures later today Knowm.
Blue - yeah I don't want em much bigger than five feet at all to be honest. I want to start flowering them real soon, I am just concerned about being gone for those nine days. I can either flower them right before I leave, or flower them a week prior to leaving. I am just trying to figure out if that extra week of flowering makes it so that the person who is watching the plants will have to do alot more than they would if they *just* went into 12.12 - care to comment? Yes, I am venting up, into the attic. Now I need carbon filter, and I need to vent the room. I will put up pictures later today, I know Knowm is growing more curious by the minute! =))
BlueBear
12-05-2006, 11:44 PM
OK, if you wait 9 days they can grow another 6 to 10 inches depending on the feno type so you could get back and find your self with 20 inch plants before 12-12 and that will be a problem in the long run if you want to keep them under 5FT. If you flip them before you leav they will go into the flowering stretch about 4 days after the flip and who ever is watching them will just have to make sure that they are checking the light hight every day incase they need to raise the lights. As far as feeding them, you could keep them on their veg nutes for the first 7 to 10 days of 12-12 because they take that long to actually be able to process the flowering nutes for different reasons.
In a nut shell, I would probably flip before you leav.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-05-2006, 11:45 PM
I would like my plants to be between 3.5 - 4 feet tall. Guess I should start to flower when they are about about 15 inches tall? Shorter? I am down to start flowering as soon as possible, just like I said I don't want to leave town at a crucial time. I know the first week of flowering isn't completely crucial (at least I was told that) not positive about the second.
BlueBear
12-06-2006, 05:44 AM
Yes, around 15 inches.
First 10 days they are still just transitioning from veg over to flower.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-06-2006, 06:26 AM
I am going to flip them to 12.12 without question prior to leaving. The question at hand is weather to do it this weekend or wait until a few days prior to leaving? Is the first nine days alot easier to handle than days 11-20 is basicly what I am asking. Thanks Blue, you're support is appreciated.
BlueBear
12-06-2006, 09:10 AM
Yes IMO, the first 9 are easier.. After the first 10 days they will start to stretch allot and it is nice to be able to adjust accordingly also, you want to be able to adjust the flower nutes as needed and you don't need to start them untill after the first 10.
Adieu and thanks for the thanks.
razzapiggy
12-06-2006, 05:23 PM
Cool, that gives me a little time to get my carbon filter set up and also figure out how the hell I'm going to set up the room so that I can get to the mother/clones and no light will get into the flowering room. Is dark plastic the best to use, I figured some type that can unzip? I am scared shitness of hermies so I'm going to be rather liberal with the set up....
razzapiggy
12-07-2006, 10:05 PM
Having a little problem here, some orange spots showing up on a few of the plants new leaf growth. My camera won't capture the problem well, I will try to borrow a friends shortly. Also curling upwards of some leaves, again the problem is only on like 2-3 plants out of the 34, should I not worry much? I matched it up with plant problem diagnosis and it looks like a calcium problem. Anyone had similar problems? The orange spots are very few, so I am not freaking out just yet, but I don't want anything to get out of control. I fed them their nutes at 550 PPM yesterday (slowly worked them up) Any advice is appreciated.
razzapiggy
12-07-2006, 10:32 PM
Wanted to update, the orange spots are *not* on the outsides of the leaves, they are on the inside towards the middle... not exactly sure what it is. Anyone care to comment?
BlueBear
12-08-2006, 02:38 AM
What kind of water are you using?? Tap, RO?? You may need to get some Cal Mag because you may be seeing a deficiency of some kind. What is the PH of water before watering??
Panda plastic with tarp zippers will work for light proofing a different section in the room.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-08-2006, 11:10 AM
ph of water is just around 6.0 when i give the water to them. have looked over alot of information on the net, def. seems like a calcium diff. -- open to suggestions from the group but for now my plan is to give them dolomite lime tomorrow.... i know its slow acting but i hope they rebound.. like i said, the problem is not completely over-whelming at all, so i am not freaking out but the problem will be addressed very shortly...thanks for the info
razzapiggy
12-08-2006, 11:11 AM
p.s have been using distilled bottled water for now, actually just switched to the tap water, but i havent even fed them that just yet...
razzapiggy
12-08-2006, 10:07 PM
Went to the hydro store, guy said the symptoms are def. a calcium diff. so I bought some Plant Amp to spray on them. He said they should be fine by tomorrow. So, I obviously raised the lights before giving them a solid spraying, have the lamp about five feet over-head now so they won't get burnt leaves. How long should I leave the lamp like this for? I suppose until the beads of water dry out? Thanks in advance.
santacruz_organic
12-08-2006, 11:05 PM
yeah, once theyre looking dry. my understanding is that the beads of fluid works as a magnifing glass on the plants leaves. im not a hundred % shure though,
razzapiggy
12-08-2006, 11:41 PM
Yeah, read the same exact thing santacruz. These ladies are about 12 inches tall, still in 100MMsquared pots, I need to transplant ASAP. Once they are healthy they are going into three gallon pots, and then once they settle into their new big homes I will switch over to 12.12
Very exciting!
razzapiggy
12-09-2006, 09:15 PM
Ladies are getting too big for the small pots. Clones look better today, seems like the calcium diff. is giving in a bit but still some slight curling of the leaves. I will take pictures and post them later today, I want to transplant today and switch to 12.12 but maybe I should wait until they are completely healthy? They look alot better, still some very slight curling though. What do you guys think? Pictures to come later on... any advice or experience is appreciated. Feel like it's relatively urgent that the ladies be put into bigger pots, but as I already said I am afraid I'm making a mistake stressing them when they aren't 100% healthy right now. Thanks!
razzapiggy
12-09-2006, 09:28 PM
Also wanted to add one last note that might aid you guys in giving me experience. The orange/brown spots are still on the leaves, should those disappear if the problem is completely solved? Does not appear to be spreading at all, and growth was super stunted when the calcium problem first popped up, they appear to be growing just fine though now. Is the problem solved?
razzapiggy
12-09-2006, 10:31 PM
Pictures... see the orange spots... should those dissapear if the plant as enough calcium now or maybe it will take a few days? Do these look healthy enough to throw into the 3 gallon pots?
santacruz_organic
12-09-2006, 10:48 PM
yeah, i would transplant them. as for the spots on the leaves, those will like be there from now on but you shouldnt see any on new growth or any were else for that matter if your feeding them right. those plants are looking healthy:smokin: i would switch them to 12/12 as soon as they get out of shock from the transplant. still waiting on an email from you... SC
Garden Knowm
12-09-2006, 11:12 PM
Razz...
the spots will go away when you transplant.. it is very hard to diagnoise plants in such small containers.. many growers over diagnoise and over treat their plants... once you transplant they will be GREAT..
:)
razzapiggy
12-09-2006, 11:36 PM
Sweet, yeah I think they need a bigger home, and they will receive it shortly! I am going to get them transplanted within a day or so. Problem is I only have one veg light, which means really once I transplant they have to go to 12.12 because I am going to need to run both 1000 watt lamps to cover the space they take up. I am super low on cash so I really didn't want to buy another veg light. Will they adjust okay if I flip them to 12.12 right upon transplant? Might be a little stressful for them I am thinking. I do have two HPS bulbs, and I *believe*, could be wrong, but they will still continue to veg quite nicely under the HPS, especialy if it's only a few days, right? Just throwing that out there as an idea, what you guys think? Thanks for all the help gang, such a great community happening here and we should never take it for granted.
razzapiggy
12-09-2006, 11:50 PM
Check your mail cruz.
razzapiggy
12-10-2006, 12:25 AM
Rut-row...hope this isn't a problem. My second ballast is an HPS only, and I thought I got the switchable, however I never opened it until it was needed. One ballast is switch-able and one isn't... would it harm the plants if I transplant, and have half of them under HPS instead of HID? Then once they adjust to the transplant 1-3 days later, switch them to 12. 12
Any other ideas? Sorry for being such a newbie here!
BlueBear
12-10-2006, 05:18 AM
They will be fine with those light sittuations.
Keep up the good work and think about getting some Cal Mag so you don't run into any more defs.
Adieu
faithless
12-10-2006, 05:58 AM
.
You want HPS running both through veg and flower anyway, just no MH during flowering.
.
santacruz_organic
12-10-2006, 06:19 PM
Razzkazz... you can veg. with hps no problem. that is what i would say 75% of growers veg with when using HID lights. If you have one switchable balast I can let you barrow a MH 1000w bulb that is still in prime condition. i would only put them in veg for about a week or two after you transplant. contact me if you want to work something out. SC
razzapiggy
12-10-2006, 06:31 PM
Well, I have one switchable that currently has a MH bulb in it, and as it turns out I think the other ballast is switch-able as well. To be honest with you I never even opened the thing prior to last night. When I saw HPS written on the top I assumed it was only HPS, but then I see a switch at the bottom. So, I think I am okay. With reguards to ventlation I only have a closed circuit set up, that is pulling cool air from outside, through the lights and pushing it into the attic. I hope to buy a carbon filter real shortly and set up the ventilation for the room itself. But in the meantime if I was going to start flowering in the next few days, I could always just make it an open circuit that will bring fresh air into the room. This way I could close off the entire room, so they get complete darkness when the dark cycle is on. For now we keep the door open during the day to get fresh air in there, obviously that won't work during flowering. Then the hoods would not be air cooled (only for a few days until I can afford other things I need) so they would need to be a little higher than they are now. Do you guys think this is my best option? I plan to veg for a few days once they get transplanted, but unfortunately I won't be able to afford the carbon filter *j8st* yet. So this was my idea for a possible solution that can buy me a little time.
P.S Cruz, I sent you an email. Don't plan to veg for even another full week after the transplant, they are getting big real quick, I don't want monsters on my hands for my first time! Adios!
razzapiggy
12-10-2006, 06:46 PM
If I don't borrow a MH from a buddy, its okay to have half the plants under HPS and half under MH? It will only be for a few days until I start flowering. Just don't want to flower when they are in stress from transplant.
santacruz_organic
12-10-2006, 06:56 PM
Some growers actually preffer half MH and half HPS. it gives you a wider spectrum of light even though each side of the spectrum is the best for each part of the grow. i emailed you back 2.
razzapiggy
12-11-2006, 04:52 PM
After a rather stressful night last night (blew a circuit about three times before figuring out theres absolutely no way to run both lamps off the outlets in the grow room) the plants have been transplanted into three gallon pots.
To add to the stress, apparently something was in my ventilation line, and when the fan went off when the fuse blew, it got into one of the lamps, and then proceeded to melt when the lamp got turned back on. I freaked out and called a buddy, turned out it was wax, and both of us are quite confused about where it came from.
So, for now I have a cord coming from the bathroom under the door of the grow room (real stealth, I know...) I will have to look into other options soon. As for the plants though, alot of them appear quite droopy.
The transplant was done less than 12 hours ago, so I am really really hopeful that most of them bounce back. I immediately gave them water upon transplant and also put some b1 (thrive alive) in the water to help them root. It said on the bottle to soak the roots in b1 and water, but I thought you are never supposed to leave roots exposed to light or anything? I played it safe and just put the reccomended dose in the water prior to watering the plants in their new homes. I will post pictures later, but will this droopy-ness most likely go away? They look super thirsty almost, but I know they can't be, I gave em alot of water.
I did not water to the point of 15% run off (which I was recently reccomended by a friend) but I do know they received enough water to get them through the next few days at least.
What ya guys think? Pictures coming later, hopefully their health improves quickly like it did when I first put them from the cup I received the clones in, into the small starter pots. Anyhow, thanks cannabis.com
razzapiggy
12-11-2006, 05:13 PM
Wanted to add, some look alot better than others, so I know it's not a question of them being thirsty... it's the shock they are going through. Let me go ahead and say that I will never start clones out in anything smaller than 3 gallon pots again. I was reccomended by several friends to just start em out in big pots, but the guys at the hydro store talked me out of it. Next time I stick with my original plan and never need to transplant.
Dan K.
12-11-2006, 06:28 PM
Wanted to add, some look alot better than others, so I know it's not a question of them being thirsty... it's the shock they are going through. Let me go ahead and say that I will never start clones out in anything smaller than 3 gallon pots again. I was reccomended by several friends to just start em out in big pots, but the guys at the hydro store talked me out of it. Next time I stick with my original plan and never need to transplant.
Sorry to hear you're having problems, I've transplanted 2 times during my grow and so far have not had any problems. As far as a solution to your problem, I would recommend letting them grow for a couple days and hopefully they will recover, however make sure that when you watered you covered all the pot with water, not just around the plant because that is sometimes a common misconception and it could lead to droopy leaves.
50ul }{4ck3r
12-11-2006, 07:14 PM
they are sexy...razzapiggy
razzapiggy
12-11-2006, 07:16 PM
Yeah, I made sure to give the entire pot water, sometimes it even flowed over the brim of the pot. I think they will bounce back after a few days of getting adjusted to their new home. Perhaps I will give em a bit more water tonight to make sure the roots are nice and moist. Thanks for the info Dan! Can anyone else comment on how long they generally take to get past the shock of being transplanted?
santacruz_organic
12-11-2006, 07:43 PM
about 4 days. sometimes not at all. a day after i transplanted my clones they started growing but i almost always run in to shock during transplant. you only need to water it till the water comes out of the bottom. if your plants are in shock the roots wont be sucking much water up and the soil should stay moist unless you have high temps. I would only water once the top of the soil is dry during this period and only little by little. you want to keep it moist but you dont want your roots sitting in water for a couple days due to the fact they need to breathe. patience is a virtue in growing a successful op.
razzapiggy
12-11-2006, 08:06 PM
For sure Cruz, fortunately for me I am using a mix of SunShine#4 and perlite (only 25% perlite) so it breathes extremely well. I am going to leave them alone for about 24 hours, and see how they are doing at that point. Like I said I did not water until the water came out the bottom (need to go buy more trays here in a second) I'll talk to them at the hydro store, I'm about to run off see ya gang!
BlueBear
12-11-2006, 08:24 PM
For future thought, think about getting a rooting powder. I use microrzi, bad spelling, but you can beef up the vitamin B or use something like SuperThrive or Kelp extracts and they will help the plant to take off rather than stop growth do to transplant shock.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-11-2006, 08:31 PM
I used ThriveAlive with B1 in it, but yes I will look into getting SuperThrive for the next time. In all honesty, I think I will take my friends advice and just start them in the three gallon pots next time, then no need to transplant, and no risk of shock. Blue~ when the soil down 2-3 inches gets dry obviously it needs more water. Should I just water them until water comes out the bottom of the pot? I also need to look into salt leaching shortly... this project has cost alot more money than I anticipated, but I hope it's worth it! The plants look like they will make it, but what do I know I am new to this. Some look like they have no shock at all, others look stunted and droopy.. keeping my fingers crossed that in 2-3 days they appear alot better and I will flower right away.
BlueBear
12-11-2006, 08:45 PM
Did you ever get a moisture tester? Probably one of the cheapest things you could have invested in. I think they will bounce back just fine, with the first grow everything can look bigger than it really is.
Personaly I wouldn't start in bigger pots, for one you are giving so much of your light up to pots and soil instead of plant matter and 2, the roots grow stronger IMO once they get a little bound and then get a chance to take off in new potts, I had an artical about it before, but I don't know where it is, but perhaps someone else can give their two cents on it, and in the mean time I will try to dig it up.
Sugar and molassis can help with the salt leaching, but why do you think you need to worry about that now?? It is usually something that you do at the end of flower before harvesting.
Adieu, and don't worry, having all of the extra products ar nice, but not always needed.
Racerx
12-11-2006, 09:38 PM
Wanted to add, some look alot better than others, so I know it's not a question of them being thirsty... it's the shock they are going through. Let me go ahead and say that I will never start clones out in anything smaller than 3 gallon pots again. I was reccomended by several friends to just start em out in big pots, but the guys at the hydro store talked me out of it. Next time I stick with my original plan and never need to transplant.
i think its a bad idea to start in such big pots. the obvious reason is that you risk root rot and other issues that come from the dirt staying to damp for too long. Without roots to take advantage of all that dirt, its going to stay wet for a lot longer then neccessary and its harder to get the roots to search for water. I have never had problems transplanting from 1 gallons to 3 gallons. Sure they are droopy for the first 24 hours but thats totally normal. Never had one die on me and ive transplanted...welll...alot.
although its not an accurate gauge, if I look at all the grows Ive participated in and seen...the best ones were transplanted and not started out in their original containers. The other advantage of transplanting is that your roots get a bunch of nice new and fresh soil and require less flushing.
razzapiggy
12-11-2006, 09:51 PM
Thanks for the kind words Blue, you have been a huge help. I am getting the moisture tester within the next few days, I got a hang of the clones in the starter planters, so felt I didn't really need it.
To be honest, I am living pay check to pay check right now, especially with this operation taking place... at times I sign onto my online banking to find not a damn penny in my bank account. So, sometimes things are bought as quickly as they should.
However, I have absolutely been on top of taking care of them, and giving them the best possible living situation I can financially afford.
They actually look a bit less droopy as of late (last few hours) I am hopeful!
Did not know you didn't need to salt leach during veg, the dude at the store told me I should do it pretty soon.
Next on my list : set up a carbon filter, and get these puppies flowering!
Can anyone comment on this. Right now I have a closed circuit (takes cool air from outside, brings it through both 1000 watt lamps and then into the attic) I need an open circuit to ventilate the actual air in the room. What is the technical term for that? Much love and thanks cannabis.com
razzapiggy
12-12-2006, 06:37 PM
They look a ton better today! I really need to get these puppies flowering ASAP they are getting large. Will post pictures soon. Can anyone comment on my above post?
razzapiggy
12-12-2006, 08:31 PM
Road block:: I can't run both lamps in the room, a friend told me I would be able to when this process began. Now, I know jack shit about electricity, and I currently have a cord coming from the bathroom so that both lights can be done, but nothing can even be added on the bathroom surge protector. Anyone have any resources I can look at online? I am guessing there is no quick fix to this, which creates a problem... my plants are already like 15 inches tall and ready to be flowered... and I leave town in 8 days for a little over a week. What is a brother to do?
santacruz_organic
12-13-2006, 12:18 AM
i have the same problem razz. My electricity is hooked up through extension chords and i dont have enough power left to run a cell phone charger if i wanted to. this can be a big problem because certified electricians charge alot and un-certified electricians will burn your house down which cost 10x more money. if you cant move to a room that has more amps running to it you might be able to switch the breakers in your fuse box from say 15 amps to 30 amps. this is dangerous because the wires under your house might not be able to bring that much electricity to the room, which is why you need a certified electrician to make shure. if you have house insurance an electrical fire wouldnt be covered unless everything was done with certified electricians.
my 2 cents would be to go to your fuse box, see which breakers are marked with highest amps and find which part of the house those breakers are for. if you need to stay in the room your in you will probably need an electrician or a $100 - 500 extension chord. hope this helps.
BlueBear
12-13-2006, 12:22 AM
Well, taking air out of your room is called an exhaust and bringing it in is called an intake. In my room with 2K right now I just have a Dayton blower as an intake bringing in cool air in from out side and it is working fine, will need to change things around in the summer, but for now it is fine.
Well as far as your light, you can run a heavy duty extension cord to a plug in that is not on the same breaker as your bathroom plugs and you should be fine, for instance, try running a plug from the living room or a hall way plug. Just make sure that the extension cord you get is rated for about 1300W and I would plug it into a power strip because if the light starts to pull to much electric then the power strip will just trip the on and off button and you don't have to get into your breaker box and mess with anything.
Hope this helps.
razzapiggy
12-13-2006, 04:45 AM
So, blue... right now I have a closed circuit with cool air coming from outside going through the hoods into the attic. So now I need to set up the exhaust system with the Dayton blower? I was thinking I would get a carbon filter, and with the blower, push the air through the carbon filter and then into the attic as well (great another six inch hole lol) I am open to extension cords, but that is just painfully obvious that you are growing herb in a room when an extension cord goes right in there (I am trying to keep this a secret obviously)
Right now I have an extension cord going from the bathroom into the room (its one of those with a power strip included) I do not believe it's geared up for 1300watts, however it's been working just fine for the last 2-3 days -- I would assume it would continue to? My buddy said it should be able to handle the 1000 watt lamp just fine without risk of fire.
Unfortunately I do need to stay in this room, changes really can't be made for the time being. I wish I knew the room would not be able to handle the two lamps with fans, I would have hired an electrition right off the bat, and put that into my budget, now I have marijauna plants in the room, and lack the budget to do so =(
BlueBear
12-13-2006, 06:27 AM
You can vent into the attic, it will help to suck any unwanted heat out as well as the smell, and some growers just put the carbon filter right in the grow room along with the fan and that works to.
Perhaps you can run a extention coard up into the attic threw another part of the hous and then run it down into the grow room threw the attic??
Good luck.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-13-2006, 06:43 AM
Blue, yeah that's what I am looking into, trying to run a cord through the attic and then into the room...
Now now I have the circuit open, so no air is being pushed directly through the hoods, but my temps seem to be fine.. perhaps I can get away without intake during the winter eh?
razzapiggy
12-13-2006, 06:44 AM
Now = right now
santacruz_organic
12-13-2006, 07:38 AM
remember Razz, the longer the extension cord the more electricity you will be sucking. if your cable is a standard 1250w orange extension cord which has a gage rating at around 16 you will only be able to run one light and one fan or so. if you got a wire from a different location i.e. your power box that had a gage rating of 8 you could probably run your whole setup off of one cord.
it also depends on the length of the distantce or cord. a 16 gage cord under 50 ft will give you ruffly 1650w where a 16 gage cord over 50ft will only give you 1250w. if your stoned like i am you might have to read this twice. hope any info helps.
razzapiggy
12-14-2006, 08:36 PM
Thanks for the information santacruz. I'm leaving town on the 18th for nine days, blows because I start to flower tomorrow eeech! I have a friend who will be stopping by the house to make sure all is well but I wish I could be around for this exciting time. I just went to the hydro store to grab some stuff and they told me the easiest fix is to hook up a thirty amp box through the washer and dryer outlet. It sounds like you just put two breaker boxes in between the dryer/washer outlet, and the box is actually in the room. He said I could even step up to four hundred watts in the room with the 30 amp box. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks all!
razzapiggy
12-14-2006, 09:30 PM
Quick problem I wanted to post... some slight curling of top leaves... the curling is from the middle and the sides of the leaves curl up into each other... anyone know what the problem is? I had a calcium diff. before, and I'm thinking maybe this is it again? Will cal-mag help all diff's? I will try to post pictures later on.
razzapiggy
12-14-2006, 09:35 PM
P.S Problem is on newest plant growth.
BlueBear
12-15-2006, 12:56 AM
Sometimes wwhen the leavs stretch up it means that you are pushing the nutes right to the limet and anymore will be too much. IMO, water with just PH ajusted water for the next two feedings.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-15-2006, 04:52 AM
The people at the hydro store told me I need to flush the plants out with 5 gallons of water and use a product they gave me that helps with flushing (seems like a salt leach product as well) I haven't had anything to put run off water into, so I water enough so that the water doesn't come out the bottom. I think that's why I am running into this problem - in fact I'm pretty much positive.
Unfortunately, I don't have much time to build a table, but tomorrow I am getting some corregated roof, I will put the plants on top and give them a nice much deserved flushing. 5 Gallons seems a bit excessive to me, anyone care to comment?
Has anyone done this just putting the plants on the corregated roof? I know it's kind of ghetto rigged, but I work forty hours a week and simply don't have time to build the table prior to leaving town on Monday. Thanks in advance.
Garden Knowm
12-15-2006, 05:57 PM
9 days without seeing your plants?
Water??? Nutrients???
cheers
pictures pease
BlueBear
12-15-2006, 05:59 PM
5 gallons for all of your plants, or for each one??? I know that for every one gallon of potsize in a soil grow , people use 3 gals of water, but with your soilless medium, it would take less IMO.
So five gals for all, I still don't know, how many girls are there again, and how big are the pots?
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-16-2006, 12:23 AM
32 plants total...in three gallon pots. I have been told by several people now they don't need the full five gallons to be flushed properly. I am going to flush a bit later on after talking with a few more people. would like Blue's suggestion, as well as gardknowm. pictures coming later on as well. the problem really hasnt progressed into anything huge, so i am thinking they really need the full 5 gallons...any advice appreciated. also, i am going to start flowering tomorrow am, won't give em water until sunday, should i start out really low with the nutes?
razzapiggy
12-16-2006, 04:37 AM
I am doing the flushing right now, doing about three-four gallons per. I really think that is plenty.
Thanks for the help gang. :rastasmoke: :jointsmile:
Blue you have been an enormous help, if I meet you I will bow down to you!
... or just give you a bunch of nuggets I just grew. =)
Garden Knowm
12-16-2006, 06:30 AM
5 gallons seems like a desperate act... I don't know what they look like.. but I would consider letting the temp go up into the 80's (temperarily) and increase your watering schedule and quanity...
BLUE you rock!
BlueBear
12-16-2006, 07:48 AM
Razz, GK, thanks for the props. Razz I would love to share a session with you some day, the bowing down thinggy would just make me blush. GK, any positive words from you are like getting a trophy.
Thanks again guys, I am flattered
Adieu
Love you folks
razzapiggy
12-16-2006, 07:35 PM
Pictures to be uploaded within a few hours! Just need to smoke a joint to get over this hang over I got going on. Thanks gang!! I owe some of you big time
razzapiggy
12-18-2006, 04:26 AM
Welp, about to leave town. Getting everything all set up for the friend who will be watching over the babies. They go into flower tomorrow at 6 AM and will be operating on 12.12 from there. I bought some Bloom nutes, as well as MOAB Mother of All Blooms additive which is used for the first week of flowering I am told. Am I incorrect in saying that this stuff will not show up on the PPM meter? I am going to give them 400PPM to start because they were just flushed, and then throw some of this in...which would obviously raise the PPM but the pen won't be able to detect, right? That's what I was told anyhow. Should I use the full amount as directed or have you guys done less in the past? Any info is great!
BlueBear
12-18-2006, 06:21 AM
I have never used it, but it should still show up in the PPM. Also, garden guys can be great resources, but they will usually try to sale you the store.
Adieu
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-18-2006, 08:27 AM
For sure Bear, it's a tricky situation for the new consumer in this type of stuff. I was told it would not show up on the PPM by a few different people, anyone else care to comment? My PPM says right around 600 and it said 500 prior to the MOAB being put in, so perhaps some of it shows up? I put about 20% less the reccomended dose to be careful. Last thing I want is to come home to a bunch of nutrient burned plants!
Boy is it weird leaving your babies at home when you have paid such careful attention to them since you received em. They will be in good hands, and I will have to invest my faith in the person watching over them.
This has been a wild ride so far, partially because I have been setting up the room while the plants were already vegging, makes it a bit tricky! I don't think you have any choice when you are on a budget.
I am not sure if the MOAB I have is completely organic, but I did read that organic nutrients show up alot less on PPM?
razzapiggy
12-18-2006, 08:40 AM
P.S Really sorry I haven't had a chance to upload pictures guys! I know some of you really enjoy keeping up with the log alot better if pictures are up. Right now they are between 16-18 inches tall, I have vegged for three weeks now. The fun pictures will begin when I get home and they are eight days into flowering, I will be updating once a week so folks can see the progression. Hopefully they will be quite chunky! Noticed some slight yellowing on a couple of leaves, hopefully it isn't a huge deal.
Garden Knowm
12-18-2006, 09:04 PM
safe journeys!
razzapiggy
12-19-2006, 09:13 PM
I am back on the east coast safe and sound, will be back to the babies the 28th! Keeping my fingers crossed my buddy keeps everything in check. Today is their first flowering day, I'm excited to see what progress they make in nine days while I'm gone.
razzapiggy
12-21-2006, 06:17 AM
So far two days into flower, plants are still completely wet. Buddy will water them tomorrow. The instructions on MOAB is give it to em for the first week of flowering... does it matter if I don't water em until day four of flowering? I was thinking I would give it a week of the MOAB once the nuting does start. Any problem with that?
BlueBear
12-22-2006, 05:33 AM
That stuff can be pretty powerful from what I understand. I would try to follow directions as far as when to use, but go easy on the dosage until you know how your plants react. Some just give a nice dose for the first week of flowering and then wait until the last 3 to 4 weeks to use again on flower boosters. Me, I only use the last few weeks. Also, I would not give it with any other main nutes, meaning cut out your other main NPK stuff, but you can probably still use any additives such as Liquid Karma, CalMag, and things like this and if you are using SuperThrive you want to stop using it in flower unless the plant is stressed and that go's for most vit B additives IMO.
Like I said, be careful with the first dose. Couple weeks back my wife gave a plant that was still in the first week of flower a mix that was for some older girls which contained a very small amount of Cool Bloom and it burnt the heck out of the plant, gave her leaf burn and some canoe leaves, so be careful.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-22-2006, 06:59 AM
Thanks Blue. I put 20% less in the resivoir as directed on the bottle. Also used the main nutes as I was instructed to do so by the Hydro store. PPM is reading 600, should be okay I hope.
Talked to my friend who is taking care of them, and he said some slight slight curling on a few plants on the leaves (this has been a problem for over a week now) Doesn't seem to be spreading, said it doesn't look serious.
He also mentioned that the room is getting quite cold when the lights are off, is there any type of stress that the plant goes through if the difference between lights on temp is different than lights off temps?
BlueBear
12-22-2006, 10:22 AM
With the temps, they say that you don't want more than a 10D change between light and dark times, but I have had as much as 15D without any noticeable dif, I used an electric heater for a while, but it pushed my electric up more than a 1K to have it on every day dering the dark cycle, so unless it is over 15D differents I really wouldn't worry.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-22-2006, 05:12 PM
Don't know for sure because I have been out of town since the lights started going off. But I would not be surprised in the least if it's right around fifteen degrees difference. My temps were around 73 with the lights on, and with no heat in the entire house it sure as hell felt like around 58 sometimes in the living room when I wake up. What would happen if the difference is indeed 15 degrees or more?
I will check it out when I get back home. Really don't want to need to put a heater in the room, more electricity, and then my humidity levels are going to be super low which will make it needed to water more often. But obviously I will do whatever is needed. Thanks Blue!
I am curious what is causing the curling even though it appears to be minimal right now. I am using one of those ghetto ph measure things, where you put three drops in the water. I am thinking it could be inconsistent ph levels? I really need to buy a ph pen when I get back.
razzapiggy
12-22-2006, 05:36 PM
Also wanted to add, I conduct searches on cannabis.com for such information before making posts, and the search button yields no results. I type in something as simple as temperatures and nothing comes up. What gives?
BlueBear
12-22-2006, 07:07 PM
When you conduct the searches are you logged in? Also, if you use an anonamus IP server, can't remember what they are called, sometimes it will block some of the sights features.
Well, with the leaf curl, first of all, if it is a def, then CalMag IMO will help the most, and when growing in a soiless medium defs can be pretty common. I doubt it is the temps. Are they curling up or down?
With the cold temps, when the cold gets extreme the leaves will start to look kind of wilted when the lights first come on, but if they still look robust every morning, I would just ride it out, but that is my personal opinion.
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-22-2006, 11:02 PM
I just conducted a search logged in, and it worked. Unfortunately some of the activies I take part in prohibit me from remembering things in the short term, so I will let you know if I have a problem again (while logged in)
With reguards to the curling, it's curling up from the middle of the leaf. Not "the claw" type curling. It's more of a bending into itself from the middle of the leaf. Does that make sense?
I will ride out the temps unless it looks like a big problem. Keep ya posted Blue. I go back home the 28th, really looking forward to seeing what the first nine days of flowering looks like. Thanks for the kind words (reputation) Really appreciate your help.
How long does it take for flowers to form on the cola? I probably shouldn't expect that to have started with only nine days of flowering right?
Thanks again cannabis.com!
BlueBear
12-23-2006, 01:56 AM
It really depends on the strain, but sometimes at as little as two weeks you can have some M&M size buds showing up. With the leafes, is it like a canoe type bend? Do you smoke sigs around your grow room??
Adieu
razzapiggy
12-23-2006, 02:27 AM
Nope, never smoke cigarettes in the house ever. Yes, kind of a canoe type bending to answer your question. But more like a closed canoe lol if that makes sense. I will post pictures when I get home. As of now it doesn't look like anything serious so I'm not going to stress it. Thanks once again Blue
razzapiggy
12-27-2006, 12:26 AM
Wanted to wish everyone a late Happy Holidays. The Holiday season is one to appreciate what we are given by others, and I wanted to take a moment to thank each and every person who has answered all of my questions, no matter how simple they were. Hope everyone is feeling fine, and rocks in the New Year with tons of happiness!
Kindbud
12-27-2006, 01:09 AM
Wanted to wish everyone a late Happy Holidays. The Holiday season is one to appreciate what we are given by others, and I wanted to take a moment to thank each and every person who has answered all of my questions, no matter how simple they were. Hope everyone is feeling fine, and rocks in the New Year with tons of happiness!
Happy holidays to you to man . Nice setup by the way , I prefer to gradually let the plants strenghten before giving them such insane amounts of energy ,you have the space, its just they tend to get lanky and stretch out ,so later in their life the bottoms may not get the approptiate light. I hope to see some serious kolas from those plants though bro, I have only heard things of sour diesel :rasta: peace out
razzapiggy
12-27-2006, 03:36 AM
Surprisingly they aren't streched at all, or at least don't appear to be. I get back home from a holiday trip on Thursday, will post some pictures for you guys. Can't wait to get back and see my bitches!!!
razzapiggy
12-28-2006, 05:16 AM
Do you guys rotate your plants? I was just told by my friend that the plants in the center of the light space are about 1-2 inches taller than those on the outside. Will have to see for myself tomorrow though.
Garden Knowm
12-31-2006, 05:54 AM
Hi RAZZ
rotating plants can be very useful for some lighting situations...
idealy you will not have to rotate your plants.. cause your lighting will be PERRRFECT!!!
razzapiggy
12-31-2006, 09:19 PM
Just set up the carbon filter in the attic - it's nice to not have it take up space in the room. I haven't rotated the plants yet, but I think I will soon, only thing is the ones on the outside are just as big as the ones on the inside, so are they really growing unevenly at all? Anyhow, I will get some pictures up tomorrow. Happy New Year to all!
razzapiggy
12-31-2006, 09:23 PM
P.S Everyone who told me that Sour Diesel is one of the smelliest strains was absolutely right. I came home from vacation to find the house reeking of weed, was only 7 days into 12.12 at that point too. And it wasn't that plant type smell, it smelled like bud! Now the problem is fixed! I am considering buying a co2 system, have some extra money. This is a worth while investment even for round one right?
howsyourroof
12-31-2006, 11:49 PM
i didnt get a system i just got a tank and a meter ,and some plastic tube.but yes it will increase yield . they say to match ppm of nutrient with ppm of o2
razzapiggy
01-05-2007, 04:58 AM
Sorry it's been so long gang, I have been keeping up with other people's threads and been busy with work, didn't even realize I had left my thread unnoticed for a bit! Here are some pictures.
#! Here is a stand alone shot of one of the girls, most of them were right around 18 inches tall when I started flowering, and I left town for 9 days, well, they shot up about a foot!! Tall bitches!
#2 Shot of the canopy. Looking pretty nice I think.
#3 Tiny little buds starting to form. Finally!! It's day 14 today, I am impatient! :D
#4 Another close up of a girl. It's hard to tell from the picture but this plant is a darker green, and it's a bit droopy. Two of the others look pretty similar. Bud developement is ahead of alot of the girls though, so I guess she's okay?
Excited things have started to pick up a bit!!
On a sour note, today the lights went on around 6:00. At around 6:30 my room mate blew a fuse that turned one of the 1000 watt lamps off, and I didn't realize it for about an hour. So, half of the room was without light, still receiving some from the other lamp... but isn't this bad because it encourages hermies? Won't have the problem again that's for sure, just curious if this is something I should worry about.
On a final note, I am considering buying one of the "poor mans reverse osmosis" filters. No waste water which is nice, and I was told it should cut the PPM down 30% from the tap. Anyone used em?
Cheers!
santacruz_organic
01-05-2007, 05:05 AM
i wouldn't worry about it due to the fact that one 1000w light can grow your plants by its self. maybe if it hapened like every hour but for only one hour i wouldnt worry.
razzapiggy
01-05-2007, 05:33 AM
For sure SantaCruz, not going to stress myself out about things that are already done anyhow!
Got some Hygrozyme today... filled up the resivoir with tap water (268ppm) and then added my blooming nutrient which brought my ppm to 630. Is this too low?
Hygrozyme says 8-10 mL per gallon, I am going to go on around eight.
Question, I know Hygrozyme doesn't show up on PPM meters, and as I get later in flowering I am going to try to push the ladies a bit with the PPM and see how they handle it. I am guessing a way to do that would be push the ppm prior to Hygrozyme being added to around 1000 and then add Hygrozyme with 8mL per gallon... you guys think that's a good idea?
One last question, I have the ladies in three gallon pots, and then are kind of right on top of each other, want to be cautious about mold. If any of you can share your experiences with that (and preventing it) please let me know.
Cheers! :rastasmoke:
stinkyattic
01-05-2007, 06:31 PM
Hey just wanted to stop in and say hi... plants look great!
If you want to avoid mold keep your humididty around 40% and make sure you have a little breeze.
I'm kind of confused-reservoir? It looks like soil to me... I haven't used hygrozyme, but I use Cannazyme and that product anyway you can actually double the conc the first time... dunno about hygrozyme... just watch though that as the dead root matter breaks down, some N is going to be released. But also C is going to be released and you might try hitting your plants with some Sweet to take advantage of that... just a thought!:D
razzapiggy
01-05-2007, 07:00 PM
It's actually Sunshine #4 which is a soil-less mix but looks a ton like soil. I actually don't have a drip system or anything set up just yet, when I said resivoir I just meant where I put the water, and mix up the solution etc.
Hygrozyme makes the blooming nutrients more readily available to the plants I am told. I jacked up the PPM to around 700, hopefully it will be just fine. Then next time I mix solution I will try to push it a little closer to 1000.
Don't have a dehumidifier in there just yet, probably should look into it. Hooking up a humidity therm later on today, will post and let you know where my levels are.
stinkyattic
01-05-2007, 07:05 PM
A dehumidifier is a great asset.
You know, another product that is great is that TopMax stuff... making nutes more available... part of that is a chemical process called chelation where a chelating agent, for example, EDTA, EGTA, humic acid, oxalic acid, etc, basically forms a complex with the ferts and prevents them from interacting and combining into unusable/unavailable forms... topmax has humates PLUS all sorts of other yummy goodies that will sweeten up your girls a bit!
razzapiggy
01-05-2007, 07:24 PM
Cool, thanks for the tip! Will ask about TopMax next time I am at the store. It seems Hygrozyme does some of the same stuff you described but I will look into it. Thanks Stinky! Will be posting pictures every week from here on out. Sour Diesel is a ten week flowering stain, so I am going to have to be patient here - which will only grow harder as the buds develope. Great things come to those who wait though
KindMidasSoundman
01-05-2007, 08:26 PM
OMG! Those pics are HAWT!!
It's pretty disgusting that I can get turned on by a good pic of something other than a nude woman!
Oh welll... Haven't been by the thread in a while, razzapiggy and everything looks GREAT! I wish I were there.
Getting ready to go out on tour for 6 weeks so I will be lurking about sporadically. Just wanted to pop-in and say "hey!"
razzapiggy
01-05-2007, 08:34 PM
Thanks for stopping by. Enjoy your tour, kick some ass and when you come back I will be damn close to harvest! Hopefully I don't run out of head room, these bitches shot up like crazy when they went into flowering, they appear to be slowing down a tad with the vertical growth though. Later bro!
Dan K.
01-06-2007, 04:34 AM
On a final note, I am considering buying one of the "poor mans reverse osmosis" filters. No waste water which is nice, and I was told it should cut the PPM down 30% from the tap. Anyone used em?
Cheers!
I have never used one, but you might want to consider investing in a couple of 5 gallon jugs and filling your water up at those machines in front of most supermarkets, all of those machines are r/o filtered as well as several different other types, at my market its like $2 for 10 gallons, not too bad at all, just a thought!
razzapiggy
01-06-2007, 05:16 AM
Yeah, I actually bought a few of those recently. They sell reverse osmosis water at the local grow store, I was considering grabbing 10 gallons of the filtered water and then putting 15 of the tap water type thing.
I am not against buying all reverse osmosis water, but it will definitely get expensive when these bitches are going to want a gallon of water per day - 'bout fiften bucks a day!!
I think buying the poor mans reverse osmosis is the better move money wise, because I can pay $150 for it, and take my PPM down by 30% and it will last me this next 7 weeks and then at least the next grow! Soo.....we shall see
razzapiggy
01-06-2007, 05:51 AM
Just went in the room and gave the babies a shower! 1050PPM and I also Hygrozime was in the water as well - which doesn't show up on the PPM meter.
Already kind of threw this out there, but I would like to again. I definitely am noticing that a few plants are a darker shade of green, a bit more droopy, and just appear weaker than the bunch. I tried to get a decent picture in my above post, don't think it came out great. The confusing thing about the situation (which I don't believe is a huge deal but I am curious) is that the bud developement ont he ones that appear weaker than the bunch have more bud developement than most of the others.
I can try to get a stand alone picture of one of the weaker ones up soon, but I would like to hear some opinions if possible.
Cheers!!!! :pimp:
razzapiggy
01-08-2007, 12:29 AM
PPM right around 1050. Plants seem to be handling it nicely, very happy about that. Going to push to 1200 next time, will this be okay with the Hygrozime as well? I vegged this for a bit too long (about 18 inches on average) before forcing them into flower. I have read most of the veritcal growth during flowering is during the first 1/3 of the total flower time. Given that my strain is supposed to flower for 10 weeks, I am approaching the time where they stop growing vertically (hopefully!) I will upload some pictures later, haven't really heard much from the peanut gallery on this thread for a bit, but I will continue to update for those still following! Enjoy!
razzapiggy
01-10-2007, 01:57 AM
::crickets:: Where is everyone at? I got so much help through this procces during the boring parts, and I appreciate that! I thought people would be more interested in the exciting time. For now though, everything is all good.. Hope everyone is doing well
BlueBear
01-10-2007, 06:34 AM
Well, for one reason or another the greener ones may be holding more water than the others. Are they taller or shorter than the others?? Are you sure that they are all the same strain?? Did they all get flushed with the same amount of water?? Because they may be holding on to more N from the veg nutes as well.
Adieu
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-10-2007, 06:46 AM
Was told everything is the same strain so gotta believe that to be the case until proven otherwise. They were flushed with approximately the same amoutn of water though the way of my measuring that was my own count in my head.
The ones that are darker appear a bit smaller on average, but nothing considerable. I have started to bend the plants down to allow more light to penetrate the canopy and also prevent and problems with head space.
What I did to bend the plants without breaking them is start at the bottom of a node, move up a half inch, bend in the direction I want the main cola to go in. Move up a half inch, do the same. For any newbies reading this and planning to do the same, the trick is to use both hands, and move up a very small amount each time you bend as to prevent the plant from cracking too far
Two of them bent a bit too far, and I used some tie to get it together in hopes it will rejoin its main stem even stronger!
razzapiggy
01-11-2007, 03:27 AM
Just got my humidity therm. hooked up, it reads 66 but the problem is it's not right where the canopy of the plants are. I see no signs of fungus at all, but am considering buying a dehumidifer as a precautionary measure. Question is... if my humidity is at 66 a few hours into their "day" what does it get up to at night? Should I be concerned? I also only have one occilating fan going right now, perhaps I should buy another. Some people reccomend using a heater during the night cycle, others reccomend a dehumidifier to prevent molding... what do you guys think? Also wanted to add I did veg for a little longer than I should have the plants are crowding one another a bit more than I had anticipated....any advice is appreciated.
santacruz_organic
01-11-2007, 05:10 AM
good luck finding an oscillating fan durring the winter....
as for your humidity and mold, as long as you have constant fresh air comming in you should have a problem with it.
BlueBear
01-11-2007, 08:56 AM
It may be pushing it a little. I think that 40% is ideal IMO. I think I said something about that many plants and the space that they take up at the start of your thread, or one of your other ones, but you live and learn. Put the shorter plants in the middle or the taller ones will rob them of light.
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-11-2007, 05:57 PM
Yeh, I would like to lower it as well Bear. I had some buckets of water laying around in the room, grabbed em out and now my humidity is down to 63 (lights on) yesterday. I am going to look into a dehumidifier. Really would like to see the humidity go down to around 50 or even high 40s. Given that my plants are crowding each other a bit more than I would prefer, I should be especially careful of mold.
Thanks Bear
santacruz_organic
01-11-2007, 10:38 PM
fresh air flow and constant air flow through your plants is the trick to defeating mold in my percpective. your relative humidity should be an ideal 60%
razzapiggy
01-12-2007, 12:22 AM
Went to the grow store to talk to them about the humidity issue and they told me the dehumifier won't even help much unless the vortex fan is off while the humidifier runs... you guys agree? I have a friend who said he disagrees, thinks it will def. help some. Thing is, I can't turn my vortex off during the day because these plants fucking reek!!
As of now, I don't have a closed circuit, just an open one... and cool air is coming in from a vent in the floor. What I was considering doing is stuffing that vent with something to prohibit full air flow, then the air will be drawn in under the door. This air would obviously be dryer... but the plants may not get quite as much fresh air because it would have to go under the door and also through the plastic I put up. What do you guys suggest?
I am considering just biting the bullet and spending the 180 on the dehumidifier, but if it isn't going to work well because the Vortex is pulling air through the room quicker than the dehumid. can work, then there's no point.
razzapiggy
01-12-2007, 06:34 AM
Took the humidity right when the lights came on today... 69% humid....one hour after lights came on it dropped to 63. i then plugged up the area where the air from outside was comin in from (in hopes that dryer air would come in under the door) and it dropped to 61. i am curious to ask people would turning off my vortex for 15 mins out of every 60 mins and then turing on the dehumidifier during its off cyle would that help alot? i am surpiserd covering up the area in which the damp air comes in only dropped i t2%....very interested to hear 3what others have done to drop it a few more degrees. other thing i could do is get the fan on a dimmer and set a timer to have it very lightly going during the time in which the dehumidifer is on...can you set the fdan to dim 15 mins out of every hour or no
BlueBear
01-12-2007, 07:06 AM
I just read a thread today where a guy had his RH in the 60's and in the last 4 weeks he started battling powder mold. Sometimes certain strains are more volnrable to the PM, but you need to keep a close eye on things. You can set the fan to come off and on as long as it doesn't get to hot when it is off, because it will draw moisture out of the plants and make the room more humid sometimes.
Racerx, who has a thread in hydro uses a spray to combat possible PM, I would try to hit his thread up and ask him the name of it. It may be in your budget if a D/H isn't.
Adieu
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-12-2007, 07:00 PM
I can afford a d/h right now, the only thing is it won't be entirely effective if my Vortex is on. And without the Vortex on, the house reeks! I could maybe put the Vortex and the d/h both on timers, and have the Vortex turn off for like 10 mins out of every hour and the d/h come on. Still, I do think the house will start to really smell in that 10 minutes not to mention I don't want air seeping through the walls into outside our home. I have a friend coming over tonight who has been doing this longer, he is going to give some advice... will keep ya guys posted
razzapiggy
01-12-2007, 07:31 PM
cant find the thread, can you post it? with reguards to the spray, i could def. think about doing that but isnt it bad to spray the plants when they are budding...?
razzapiggy
01-13-2007, 09:54 PM
Just bought the 50 pint d/h. Got it for 260 with a 3 year warrenty. It uses about 860 watts of energy. I also plugged up the hole in which cold air was coming in from outside, so now my fresh air is being brought it from underneath the doorway...
Now, outside the doorway is a hallway, a bathroom, and another bedroom. If I keep the bedroom door closed often (as well as the door that seperates the hallway from the house) it should work just fine.
I would prefer have the d/h in the actual room, but my Vortex is going to suck out air quicker than the d/h can work. What do you guys do to combat that? I was thinking maybe setting the fan to go off for like 15 minutes out of every hour and then the d/h turns on? I'm not really sure but I know having a d/h outside a locked door isnt the most stealth thing in the world.
razzapiggy
01-14-2007, 05:14 AM
Took all buckets with water out of the room, and today the r/h started at 68 right when the lights came on, it has actually dropped to 56 now that the lights have been on a few hours. if i used the d/h while lights are off and vortex fan is on, could i keep the r/h down to about 55% even with the fan running? is 55 a safe range? i am trying to find out how resistent to mold my strain is so i will post the information i get later on. thanks all
razzapiggy
01-14-2007, 05:15 AM
Also considering that the bottom 1/3 of the plant really isnt receiving much light, I am considering tripping the whole bottom 1/3 of each plant off in an effort to protect against mold and increaes air flow. What do you guys think, especially interested to hear what Blue has to say
BlueBear
01-14-2007, 05:23 AM
If you are going to proon the bottem, do it soon IMO, i usually lop off about a quarter of the plant and the top just takes off a couple days later because it has the roots to support a larger amount of branches and now with the extra branches gone it is like putting a over size moter in a little Honda and it super charges the growth of the top portions of the plant. Well for the RH, at least you got it down, I would shoot for less than 50, but it may work just fine for you, so just try not to worry too much, and it won't hurt to put the DH in the room with lights out and see what it does for you and also, the smell shouldn't be as strong with the lights out, because it is the heat from the lights that help creat more stink.
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-14-2007, 06:19 AM
Thanks Bear. Yeah, I am ready to trim the bottom 1/3 of the ladies, but I am curious should I take off only the fan leaves or also cut secondary shoots that are down close to the bottom of the stem?
I was thinking just stay away from areas that shoot into bud sites? Should secondary shoots be cut off though or just leaves? I am going to set up the d/h in the room for the 12 hours that the lights are off, see how it works with the fan on. i really think it will stink up the entire house with the fan off for 12 hours, but I could give it a shot.
BlueBear
01-14-2007, 08:19 AM
If the shoots don't reach up to above 1/2 have of the plant I usually cut unless they already have some little nugs growing that are comprable to the top nugs. If they are stringy I cut them as well, only nugs stay, not the fluffy stuff that feels like a hairy cotten ball.
I cut hole branches off of the bottem, but generally only the branches with small fan leafs, or dying ones, but all the bottem shoots usually go, unless you are wanting to try to make the hash when done, but I don't really mess with the hash, because it can be messy, time consuming and be a bigger problem if LEO finds it.
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-14-2007, 08:05 PM
Just went into the room, it's 69% r/h with the lights off. Got down to 51% r/h with the lights on yesterday, but it quickly rose to 58% within a few hours.
With reguards to the clipping, I am going to clip alot tonite, but also leave some as well because I was planning to make some hash. But all in all, I think it's better safe than sorry, get rid of the areas of the plant that aren't going to produce buds in order to encourage more airflow in the canopy and lower parts of the plants.
razzapiggy
01-15-2007, 07:15 AM
I gave a few of the ladies a nice little prooning today, will finish the rest tomorrow. I am glad you let me know that they might shoot up with growth on top, I really don't have a ton of space to play around with at this point.
I have been bending them quite a bit, and it seems to be working well as the light hasn't needed to be risen in quite sometime now. I know some people will say it's bad to cut any of the leaves off, but for various reasons I ended up veggging too long, and the growth at the bottoms of the plants is becoming very cluttered. That coupled with my battling high r/h, I think this is the right call.
Speaking of height, how close to the ceiling can you get a 1000 watt lamp without any risk of fire?
razzapiggy
01-16-2007, 09:20 AM
Hey Guys,
Just wanted to update for those still keeping track. Hope everyone is doing well. Anyhow, ditched the idea of a d/h in the room, I am putting in a space heater instead to bring my temps up. My temps have been getting as long as 45 degrees during their off cycle (sooo fucking cold) and then within a few hours of the lights going on the temps reach around 61-62 (still not even that high!)
My space heater uses 1500 watts it says, that sounds like a shit load. Is it really going to use 1500 watts while on if I set the therm to like 59 degrees? I know 59 is still cold, but I have read you never want your night time temps to be higher than your day time temps. Considering that it takes a few hours to get to 62 (of course that's from 42, with the space heater at 59 I am sure the room would get hotter quicker with lights on) I have also read that most fast flowering plants will not grow effeciently in temps lower than 60 degrees, I think setting my therm at 59 is just fine, right? I would like for the temps to be higher, but I really want to be cautious of confusing the plant with higher temps during the night than day.
Other news, some very slight nutrient burn on the tips of the leaves, nothing huge but going to cut back 900 ppm from 1100ppm (which blows because tap water alone has 460ppm) I know, I know, gotta start buying r/o water. Some of the leaves are yellowing considerably, I am going to try to get pictures up tomorrow but any clue what this could be?
In other news, the buds are really starting to form! I will get some pictures up for you guys to enjoy!
BlueBear
01-16-2007, 08:03 PM
Hey Razz, now you know why people advise folks to start off small. There all kinds of things that we just don't seem to think about with growing untill we are in the diddle of the swamp, knee high in the stink.
Well, MJ plants do thrive best with stable temps, but http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-growing/98699-coocoo-4-coco-coir.html is a plant that gets about 30D when lights off for a few hours and 85D when lights on and you can see that it is still thriving IMO.
Those heaters will nock your electric bill up no question, I have one. Make sure that it doesn't come on when the lights are on or it can trip your breaker if you don't have enough ampage on that line.
With lights on temps you can get a spead control for the fan and dial it down so to not take out so much heat, but still taking out the stink.
Adieu.
Kb420Kb
01-16-2007, 08:55 PM
wow bro your plants are looking good.... check out my grow log and help me keep it alive..http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-growing/98731-kb420kbs-grow-log.html
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 01:01 AM
Blue, it's funny I went to the Hydro Store today and got myself a Dimmer for my fan, I am going to start playing around with this little guy to see if I can't increase my temps naturally before diving in to the space heater.
As for starting off small, yep, I feel that, and was told that by several people but I chose to jump head first and see how the water feels! So far, it's been a bit stressful but I am learning so much more than I could with a tiny operation.
My plan is to leave the fans almost completely off during their night cycle, to keep the warmth in. Since plants don't put off as much scent when it's dark, hopefully I won't run into a problem. For lights on I am going to try 15 minutes on, 1 hour off. This really should keep the heat in the room, and also hopefully lower the r/h a tad. Will keep y'all posted! Pictures to come shortly.
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 01:01 AM
P.S Link is dead blue bear...
BlueBear
01-17-2007, 01:34 AM
Maybe this time, http://boards.cannabis.com/showthread.php?t=98699
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 02:54 AM
Thanks it worked that time.
Well, a score for the home team on this one folks! Bought a pretty expensive r/h therm today, one of the wireless ones. Looks as if my first therm. was way off because I have seen my relative humidity rise above 60% so far tonite!!! Whooo---hooo!! Of course, I expect that will drop quite a bit during their night cycle. For any newbies reading this thread, just buy the expensive wireless therm. right off the bat, much less stressful and it's neat, you set a sensor in the garden, and anytime you want to know the rh or temp in your garden you just look at the home unit that you can carry around with you.
Now, my temps with lights off were reaching as low as fifty degrees, however I bought a fan dimmer and also a timer for my fan. I am trying a little experiment...I'm going to try to keep my fan off the entire time the lights are out. I figure my 9 by 11 grow area will have enough air, and it's very important to my that I keep my temps up during the night cycle. Will keep you guys posted, and I promise, pictures are coming within a day or so!
BlueBear
01-17-2007, 04:02 AM
Glad that is getting a little better.
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 04:20 AM
I wouldnt say its getting better just yet. I think Im going to need to use a space heater either way during the lights off cycle which is a definite bummer as it will cost me quite a bit of money that I had not anticipated as a cost. I will just have to see how much warmer it stays in there with the fan off, I dont anticipate that much warmer but we will have to see... will keep you guys posted on this one.
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 07:00 PM
Okay, so it's time to get a d/h ASAP. My lights off temps have leveled out at 61 degrees Farenheit and SEVENTY SIX percent relative humidity. I have no clue how this is possible. Can someone explain to me how lights on my r/h is getting down to as low as 43%, and then the lights go off, temps drop about 9 degrees, and it goes up as much as 33%? That's fucking nuts.
santacruz_organic
01-17-2007, 07:03 PM
i had the same problem razz, the way i figure it is that your exahuast is more then likely off when lights are off due to the fact you want to save your heat and this is why your hummidity is going up. also your lights give of heat which should get rid of your humidity.
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 07:23 PM
Yeah, I figured this much was just curious if anyone could come up with anything else. Now I am kind of in a toss up in my head with using a d/h or a space heater to keep it down. Dehumidifers use alot less electricity, and with my temps at 61 with lights off, I figure the d/h alone would raise that a good five degrees. Hey Cruz... a question you may be able to answer. Most d/h say to not use them in rooms under 65 degrees, was your room under when you used it? I figure it probably isn't a huge deal with only being 4 degrees under, not to mention it probably won't even fall under if I am using the d/h most of the day.
santacruz_organic
01-17-2007, 08:42 PM
i never new that.. interesting. my d/h runs fine under that temp.
And by the way, a heater uses way more energy then a d/h (most heaters are 1500w). Go with the D/h. it will increase your temp. a couple degrees and keep your humidity down. Get a co2 system going and you can take out your ventilation all together! as long as temps dont rise.
stinkyattic
01-17-2007, 08:46 PM
...I'm going to try to keep my fan off the entire time the lights are out. I figure my 9 by 11 grow area will have enough air, and it's very important to my that I keep my temps up during the night cycle.
!
I just switched to that exact fan thing 3 days ago when the night temps around here started getting really cold.
I have the fan plugged into the same time-clock on my main breaker panel that the lights are on so all my flower room systems are only operational during lights on.
I have to say how this winter sucks for trying to regulate temps! 70 one day...3 days later it hits 0 degrees F overnight!!! WTF!
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 09:36 PM
Thanks for the tip Cruz and attic. My humidity rose to about 80% so I went in there for the first time during their night cycle to turn the exhaust fan on. Noticed a few tiny light leaks, so those will be taken care of tonite (guess it's a good thing I went in there) I'm going to buy a d/h shortly, and get that in there for the plants on their off cycle. Curious if the light leaks did any damage to the plants, haven't seen any signs at all. Guess the signs I should be looking for with reguards to males (now four weeks into flower) is seed pods... anyone have a good link with various different pictures of seed pods? I doubt it will be a problem, I looked carefully the light wasn't reaching the plants, though you can never be too sure! Thanks gang.
stinkyattic
01-17-2007, 10:21 PM
Light leaks can also result in fluffier, lighter buds.
It's always a good idea to go visit your plants in the dark and sort of see what they see.
santacruz_organic
01-17-2007, 10:33 PM
good advice stinky:thumbsup:
razzapiggy
01-17-2007, 10:43 PM
Yeah no shit, I should have checked more carefully. Well, hopefully no damage has been done, because it sure as hell is going to be completely fixed tonite. Also off to get a dehumidifier right now! I can actually hear my PG&E bill rising, its kind of weird.:D
razzapiggy
01-18-2007, 08:57 AM
Some bud shots, and canopy shots four weeks in... will be updating with pictures every week from here until harvest! Enjoy
razzapiggy
01-18-2007, 09:01 AM
Here are a few more pictures, one of a plant that suffered some damage to its main stem, hope she makes it... one is of a leaf that looks pretty sickly, about 10-15 leaves in the 32 plants look this way. Anyone got a clue? Last picture is of the tape I put on the spots where the white reflective matieral. Noticed some slight light leaks, nothing big at all. Hope it's not a problem.
So I got my dehumidifier home today from Sears, all excited to set it up for the ladies so they dont have to suffer the high humidity levels again tomorrow during their off cycle, and it's cracked! It will be returned tomorrow and will be set to 50% from then on (only on during their off cycle)
For their light cycle I have found that 15 minutes on, then 15 minutes off for my exhaust fans (at 75% speed) tends to keep temps/humidity levels pretty constant. Anyhow, enjoy the pictures guys and thanks for stopping by.
razzapiggy
01-18-2007, 09:02 AM
Oops
santacruz_organic
01-18-2007, 04:22 PM
lookin good razz. here is some prop points.
razzapiggy
01-18-2007, 11:21 PM
Haha, just read your props points man. That cop was sketching me out man!! I wasn't even doing anything wrong and he still made me feel sketchy... I wonder if he saw the boat load of FoxFarm in your car LOL!!!
razzapiggy
01-19-2007, 11:19 PM
I have a friend who said pot plants don't pick up light on the green spectrum, so you can do work in the room with a green light on. Is this true?
razzapiggy
01-20-2007, 10:16 PM
Dehumidifier is working great. It's raising my night time temps to around 69-70 and my RH has hovered in the low high 40s/low 50s - loving it!
NewGrower
01-21-2007, 03:15 AM
Your plants are looking great will be lookin forward to seeing future posts:)
razzapiggy
01-21-2007, 08:30 AM
In a relatively controversal yet I think completely needed move, I gave the girls a nice trim today. I took off growth on the bottom 1/3 of the plant, to give them more room to breathe. I stayed rather conservative about the bottom 1/3 of the plant, but they really just needed more space to be in. As a few of the vets pointed out earlier in my thread, it turns out I have a few too many plants for the time in which I vegged my babies so things got a bit crowded for sure. By doing this I have created more air flow on the bottom, which is obviously important. I also got a lumens meter today, and spaced the plants out a bit more by taking advantage of my sweet spots. The tall ones are on the outside, but at the same time I tried to put the ones in which looked like they would produce the best in the middle. I need to buy more bricks to raise some on the outside. Overall, things look much more airy and I have given the plant the opportunity to receive more lumens in more areas by spacing them out differently. Pictures come soon.
thejrodsn8
01-21-2007, 09:23 AM
i might have missed it, but where did u get seeds for sour diesel? i've been searching and the closest i've found was sage x sour
razzapiggy
01-21-2007, 07:28 PM
These are from clone... haven't seen seeds available for this particular strain in a long long time. Best of luck with your search. Where are you located?
razzapiggy
01-22-2007, 06:33 AM
Have noticed to keep my R/H down during my lights on cycle, my temps at fimes are a few degrees cooler than lights off (because of the dehumidifier) I believe I have read it confuses the plants if you have much higher lights off temps but will a few degrees at times matter?
santacruz_organic
01-22-2007, 07:24 AM
i dont think so, at least it didnt with my grow; i did hear that higher temps in your dark cycle can cause hermies.
stinkyattic
01-22-2007, 03:13 PM
I have a friend who said pot plants don't pick up light on the green spectrum, so you can do work in the room with a green light on. Is this true?
That's what I do anyway... I still noticed that once when I forgot to turn it off again it took longer for the new batch of plants to show sex. But I use green light for those times when I have to be in there puttering for some reason.
razzapiggy
01-22-2007, 07:12 PM
Cool, going to grab a green light bulb from the store today so I don't need to walk around flicking a lighter when I need to be in there.
razzapiggy
01-22-2007, 07:13 PM
Thanks Cruz, usually my temps are higher during lights on, but like I said sometimes my r/h gets a little high at night, and I use my fan more so it at times can get just a few degrees cooler than lights off temps - not often though.
razzapiggy
01-23-2007, 01:11 AM
Identified my problem with the redding/purpling of some veins/leaves as a nitrogen difficency. Bought some nitrate from the store which should cure it quickly! Pictures coming either tonight or tomorrow...
razzapiggy
01-24-2007, 05:30 AM
Just gave the babies some nitrate, hopefully it helps - read it will within a few days I believe? Also used half reverse osmosis water this time (half tap) which cut my PPM almost in half. PPM of my water prior to adding nutes was 260 and I brought it to 1050 with nutes. Last time I used 850 PPM water, but 450 of that PPM was due to the tap water. So my logic is I am adding more nutrients, but the PPM of the tap was cut in half so that's fine right? Does that question make sense?... lol Anyhow, will update soon with pictures - hopefully they make a speedy recovery from the Nit. diff.
razzapiggy
01-24-2007, 05:31 AM
P.S Is anyone still watching? It's so weird that my thread got three times the attention during veg as during flowering! LOL. Hats off to all who have stopped by, and especially those who have lent the helpful hand... come back soon!!
kindprincess
01-24-2007, 05:34 AM
of course we're watching... it's not my fault you've got it going on ;)
pix please...
love, kp:p
razzapiggy
01-24-2007, 07:19 AM
Pictures coming tomorrow KP, you just wait and see! I bumped my PPM to 1050 tonite, hopefully they can handle it... if not it's flush time! Gotta push the ladies a bit right? Pictures to come within a day or so. Love you all!!!!!!!!!!
TheGreenFog
01-24-2007, 02:16 PM
Hey, razza. Yea, we're watching. I haven't posted much on your thread, but I've been keeping up with it. Can't miss the name (so long) when it pops up on the top of the page. :) I don't remember seeing you visit my thread either...but I may be wrong. ;)
The plants are looking good to me, bro. Glad you decided to trim the bottom growth off. That will help focus your energy and also contribute to better air circulation around the plants, which is important. Hope that nitrogen boost helps your girls out and hope they can take the nutes like champs. Sounds like the dehumidifier is doing what it's meant to do...that's great too. :)
Looking forward to new pics, man.
RastafarI.
The Fog :rastasmoke:
razzapiggy
01-24-2007, 06:43 PM
Indeed! Thanks for coming by , I visit your thread but haven't posted much... sometimes I feel like for me to give advice or even to comment sometimes is a bit hard since I'm trying to get the basics down.
razzapiggy
01-25-2007, 05:42 AM
Couple quick questions here gang!
I have my babies in three gallon pots, and they are wayyy taller than I had once anticipated - 3 feet and a few inches for most of em. I think they are have stopped growing vertically though, so I believe the rule of thumb is one gallon per foot of plant growth. Should be alright, dont ya think?
Secondly, I just went over to the buddys house that I got the clones from, and he said I am 100% going to need to stake them up because they tend to get too heavy for the stems to hold. I def. do not want to hang strings from the ceiling as it will be a HUGE pain in the ass. Is it ok to just put a stake deep in each plant and then tie the top of the plant to the stake? I would assume this would prevent the plant from falling over?
No signs of the nitrogen diff. going away just yet, only gave them the nitrate a day ago though - have to be patient. They seem ready for another watering tomorrow, so hopefully within a week I will stop seeing the yellowing of the leaves, and purple stems (though I believe the purple could also be from low temps) Anyhow, thanks!
santacruz_organic
01-25-2007, 09:12 PM
yeah, use multiple steaks to hold up all the heviest colas. i didnt do this with my plants do to the fact they were almost done when the colas had that much weight. and as for your pots, it depends on your hydro settup. i dont see how you could get root bound with hydro but i never grown hydro.
razzapiggy
01-26-2007, 12:02 AM
Thanks Cruz! One other question for you guys.... I have a few plants that are partially broken (the stems) I am propped them up and recently tried to let them stand up on their own, didn't work... saw a bit of brown in the stem...are these babies that should be tossed?
BlueBear
01-26-2007, 07:20 AM
Hey fella, been a minute, but I have a few tips. Those stakes being jammed into the soil may do some root damage, so I would think about duct taping some PVC piping on the out side of the pots and use those to tie your plants up. They will be sturdier too. As for the root bound issue, you may see some, but IMO the soilless medium is able to provide better root growth, allowing a more efficient use of the roots so they grow different then when in soil. Bottom line, I wouldn't worry to much unless you start to see roots coming out the bottom of the pots at a rapid rate then at that point I would place some more 3 gal buckets under those with a 3 to 4 inch layer of the sunshine mix in them and the roots shooting out the bottom of the mane pots will start to create a new root structure in the new area.
Adieu
razzapiggy
01-26-2007, 07:27 AM
Thanks for coming by BlueBear. Yeah my plants only ended up a bit over three feet tall, so I think I am okay with the three gallon pots especially with the SunShine like you said. With reguards to the PVC piping, I am guessing you are talkinga bout running the pipe towards the tops of the plants and tieing from each side to have it stand up straight? It's hard to tell which way they will lean for right now, so I was trying to figure out an easy way to tie both ends of the cola up. Would you put the PVC up to the ceiling or across the room horizontally? I will conduct a search on the site shortly, but I have never heard of the approach you mentioned at least I don't think I have, so I am curious to hear you explain it. Always appreciate your advice Blue, I really am! Checked out your thread, looking good! Keep in touch...
Bumped my PPM to 1050, like four out of the thirty two are a bit nutrient burned (droopy leaves, slight curling) but I don't think I pushed it too too much. If some need to be flushed, as much of a pain in the ass it's going to be without a tray, it will be done. Adios all! Pictures coming by weeks start
razzapiggy
01-26-2007, 07:55 AM
After a little thought, and help from the woman (aren't women so logical?) I figured out the pipes would definitely go horizontally because you would need to use much less of it. Even though my room is 11 feet wide (and only 7 and a half tall) you can support a good five plants with a single horizontal pipe. I like that idea Blue! I am guessing I want to tie each plant from the left side of it as well as the right side of it, up towards the top of the cola... right? Thanks Blue you da man!
razzapiggy
01-26-2007, 07:08 PM
Also wanted to note, I started a thread in basic growing entitled Flushing Hydro Style. It's not very specific to hydro growers, more so just people who are not in an area where they can dispense their waste water when flushing easily. If some of you have dealt with this, please check out the thread and let me know which method you think will be less work and more effective. Thanks gang have a good weekend!
razzapiggy
01-27-2007, 10:10 PM
Hey Gang... few pictures for your viewing pleasures! 5 and a half weeks in... things are looking good. The nitrogen diff. seems to be a bit more under control, things just appear more green to me now. Still some dieing leaves on the bottom, but I am guessing the leaves that were already very damaged will likely continue to yellow and fall off... but hopefully the nitrate will prevent others from starting to get yellow.
Here are the pictures!
DaBoyWeb
01-29-2007, 10:10 PM
beautiful grow
razzapiggy
01-30-2007, 06:09 AM
Hello Everyone,
Noticed some yellowing on my leaves, mostly towards the bottom 1/3 of the plant, but also some yellowing on the top 1/3 of the plant as well. Bought some nitrogen heavy nutes to give them, and I have given water two times with the added nutrients (first time was five days ago)
Tonight was the first water without the nitrogen added. About two days ago things started to appear much greener, with little sight of yellowing leaves. I take off the ones that become completely yellow and appear dead.
After waiting about 12 hours too long to water them (they started to wilt a tiny bit) I went into the room today and found some yellow leaves at the bottom 1/3 of the plants. Things still appear much more green up top especially, but I still notice a tiny bit of yellowness on about 3 out of 30 of the plants (on the top 1/3 of them), and then some yellowing at the bottom on about 7-8 out of 30 of them. What should I do? Give them more water with the nitrogen additive in it? I am six weeks into flowering, and I know you are supposed to deprive them of N in their final weeks.
I am curious what to do, and also curious if the slight wilting could have caused the leaves on the bottom to get yellow at a faster rate? I sort of feel like giving them N again, maybe at half dose.. but wanted to run this by you helpful people first.
Also, not positive what I will do about holding them up, but they have officially started to show signs of falling over. The PVC pipe while seemingly a better option, I think will take a shit ton of work and makes the plants very un-mobile. I am considering just going with the stakes into the growing med. and then tie the plants, hopefully wont hurt the roots a ton. Would it work tieing them to a bamboo stake that is taped to the side of the pot or would that be too far away from the area you are trying to hold up?
razzapiggy
02-03-2007, 08:00 PM
Hello All...
Gave them a nice shower last night with 1/2 reccomended dose of nitrogen. Plants look nice - about six and a half weeks into 12.12 as of right now.
I went to Home Depot and bought the stuff I needed to build a tray (gutter, corregated roofing, something to hold the waste water) I figure this will make flushing alot easier at the end. I have a question though... corregated roof is a bright metal, will it create hot spots in my room or anything like that?
Figured I could save myself a some cash if I just used this as a tray instead of going to the Hydro store and buying a tray... they all do the same thing don't ya think? Figured I would put the corregated roof on cinder blocks, and have it at a slight angle... water would drip down... into a gutter, and then pour into a water container.
I am more concerned about the next run, when the plants are small, the corregated roof will get hit with some light, will this create a problem?
Will post pictures within the next day or two, or if I can think of any other questions.
santacruz_organic
02-04-2007, 09:31 AM
buds galore, good job razz!
whisky
02-05-2007, 07:44 PM
hi all i just wanted to stop and say hey:) great grow razza congrats. the time is coming... =P i wanted to ask about guano. did you ever use? is it good you guys think? if so how should it be administered. thanks take care all!
razzapiggy
02-05-2007, 10:00 PM
No experience with guano, sorry buddy! Maybe post it in the Basic Growing Forum...I'm sure someone around here uses it...
I just use my blooming nutes, with Hygrozeim which helps makes the blooming nutes more avail for uptake. Will also use MOAB the last few weeks of flowering.
razzapiggy
02-08-2007, 06:07 AM
Have started to take a bunch off because of exactly what you are saying. I have been told by the person I got the clones from that 9.5 weeks and they should be done. I plan to use MOAB during the last two weeks of flower, so I'm guessing I should now take my regular blooming nutes down by about 25%-50% when doing so? MOAB says should be decreased by as much as 50% at times... I was at 1050 PPM, should I start weening them off now and apply the MOAB in a week or so?
mafia819
02-08-2007, 08:24 AM
My advice is don't decrease your nute level till your 7.5 weeks.. you could loose some heavy weight in buds if you do that too early... if it was me i'd go full nutes till 7.5 weeks and then stop feeding them and use MOAB for the 2 weeks left.. thats it :)
Show us the huge nugs when its dried and cured! ;)
Have a good smoke pal! :S5:
razzapiggy
02-08-2007, 09:38 AM
Are you saying give them full blooming nutes and then use the MOAB alone for a few weeks? I thought it was supposed to be used in combination with the blooming nutes during the first two weeks of flowering, and the last two weeks of flowering.
razzapiggy
02-09-2007, 08:09 AM
::crickets::
BlueBear
02-09-2007, 06:54 PM
Hey partner, I have been out of the loop for a minute, but am slowly getting back into the office to check everything out. With the bloom, I would just wait until the last few or couple weeks and then drop your normal PPM in half and use the bloom nute and if there is no sign of burn you may bump the normal nutes back up a little. I wouldn't wean them down because when you hit them with the bloom nute I think that it will be kind of a shock for them to have been weaned off of a high dose for a week or so and then jump back up so quick.
Glad that the PVC piping worked out. I have about 9 different strains going right now and they are mostly local and have different growth patterns so I will probably have to pull out every trick in the book to maintain them the way I want, nice and big.
Well, keep up the good work.
Adieu
razzapiggy
02-09-2007, 08:36 PM
I was thinking I'm going to cut the Super Natural regular bloom nutes in half next time I fill the resi, and then put the reccomended dose of MOAB in there. Your post is a little confusing, is this what you mean? Maybe I am just really stoned? LOL. I will post the numbers of my Super Natural a bit later, and then the numbers of the MOAB as well, so I could get the advice of a few of you lovely folks as to how quickly to cut back on the Super Natural when using the MOAB. MOAB bottle says to cut back by as much as 50% with regular blooming nutes.
razzapiggy
02-10-2007, 07:42 AM
Using Super Natrual blooming nutes. Been using half reverse osmosis water, half tap water which results in a PPM of 250. I have gotten my babies up to 1050 PPM (just now seven weeks into 12.12) I am using MOAB at the end of the cycle, you use it for the last two weeks of flowering and you cut down on regular blooming nutes. I was under the impression that the MOAB would not show up on a PPM meter, and the instructions say to cut down by as much as 50% on the regular blooming nutes when adding the full reccomended dose of MOAB. I added 75% of the reccomended dose of MOAB, and then measured the PPM, and it had increased 160PPM - I thought it wouldn't show up? My plan was to give the plants 75% of the reccomended MOAB dose, and then give them 75% of what I usually gave them for blooming. However, I only brought my PPM up to 850 after blooming nutes were added, so I gave them 400PPM of the bloom which is half of what I generally give them. Why did the MOAB show up, and next time I fill my resi should I just bring the water to 1050PPM as that's what they are used to? I didn't want to cut their blooming nutes down by 50%. Any experiences are appreciated, I kind of feel like I am short changing my plants cutting down 50% on bloom especially when I didn't even use the full dose of MOAB.
BlueBear
02-10-2007, 07:45 PM
Your getting it right. Cut things down to when you add the bloom nute it brings the PPM back up to 1050 and just keep an I on them. Some nutes are hotter than others and if you get a little burnning don't worry too much. Your flowering buds will handle nutes even when your leafs can't, and show a little burn.
Adieu
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