OregonsDank messes up :(

[OregonsDank]

Well around the 20th of October my plants were growing around 1/2 inch a day minimum and zero stretching. Near 14 inches tall on day 20 of growing.

At this point my runt of the 6 passed all the others before I relised my plants were starving :(.


I have always used maybe 20% or less of the recommended amount of food , since I mixed dry food in with soil when planted... Well my plants ate that all up real fast and now are starving. I guess I need to find an all purpose fertilizer to water with during veg?


They are still plenty alive , very green but not really growing =( Using up water a bit slower too. I have never over watered, always let em dry out good and dry.

Well 1 is 5% yellow leaves with big brown spots :( and 1 is really short very very purple stems... not growing up much.

[Splifted]

Are you sure they're not just rootbound or maybe have a nutrient lockup due to pH imbalance? Try flushing them thoroughly, a lot of times if you haven't flushed them in awhile, thats what they need, and will take off afterwards. As long as they look nice and green and healthy, they might just need more space for their roots. What size pots you got them in and how tall are they? A general rule is 1 gallon of pot size for every foot of height.

[OregonsDank]

They are in 3 gallon pots, I don't know the exact ph but its like 7.0 or 7.5.

I havnt ever really used fertizer just tiny bits of mollases in the water and a drop of superthrive, I was relying on the mixed in ferts in my pots. ill post some pics

[OregonsDank]

The plants range from my white widow being very short, 9 inches, but tons of very strong thick , branches. The stem and branches are very very purple... to a 14 inch height average. My tallest is the northerlights , 18 or 20 inches.
My northerlights has tons of long growth not many leaves, seems happy still.
The snowbud has brown spots big ones , and lots on 6 or 7 leaves on the top part.
The 4 other are just growing alot slower than before.
Oh and yah the pots are very very full on roots, I can see 75 - 150 small small roots coming out bottom of pots. I didnt really want to transplant, will I have to?


Ill post updated pics in a few minutes.

[Splifted]

They are in 3 gallon pots, I don't know the exact ph but its like 7.0 or 7.5.

I havnt ever really used fertizer just tiny bits of mollases in the water and a drop of superthrive, I was relying on the mixed in ferts in my pots. ill post some pics

7.0-7.5 is too high for pot. 6.5 or so is about right for soil, and a little lower than that for hydro. Once you get up into the 7's nutrients aren't as readily available for the plant, which can cause fert buildups in the soil even though your plants are saying they're hungry.

If you haven't been using other ferts, than I would suggest looking into the whole fox farm line. 1 quart bottle of grow big and 1 quart bottle of big bloom should last you all the way through this grow and maybe a couple others if you don't have a lot of plants. They have an easy to follow chart that shows you what to feed and when. My plants have loved it, nice dark ass green leaves, overall pretty happy.

Also, this is a helpful link for diagnosing plant problems. Its called the plant abuse chart and has pics of leaves with deficiencies so you can compare how your plant looks and also tells you what to do to fix them. Not as complete as the one in jorge's grow bible, but definitely a good resource.

http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/97.htm

[Splifted]

But yeah, I don't think its them being root-bound, because you can get a bigger plant than that out of that pot, but it never hurts to have the extra room. Looking great though man.:thumbsup:

[OregonsDank]

Maybe you can help from seeing the pics. Ill post what I took today.

[OregonsDank]

My room, 2000 watts over these 6 now, vegged with 1000 MH till other day now about to bud so got both set up.

[OregonsDank]

Big bud, NL , Rudy, superskunk from right to left, ( I think! ) Cant see tags anymore :P

[OregonsDank]

Here is my worst plant by far, pictures speak for themselves... but the problem is no longer spreading , been on the same leaves for 8 days now.

[OregonsDank]

Hum cant find my photos my my white widow , but the stems and stalk are like bright purple.


I do the exact same thing to all 6 plants btw.

[Smokealotapotamus]

woah what the hell is wrong with your plants

[OregonsDank]

woah what the hell is wrong with your plants

lol! I wish I new, its only that one, and I did everything EXACTLY the same on it as the other 5 ><

that one and my widow look screwed up... the widow is sweet looking but stems are so purple, no green anywhere on stalk / branches lol.. its not growing that fast but its hellllla sturdy.

[harris7]

i think it is lacking some major element, maybe P and K

i had similar problems with bad pH also. you've probably locked something up.

When you water what is the colour of the water running out. Yellow? Like urine or darker than urine. That’s what I got and it’s a salt build up.

soak the plants in pHed water (6.5) for 20min,i like to pick up the pots and let the water drain out. then put em back in the water and let em resoak it in.
Is the colour of this water running out darker than normally. Test its pH. Has it changed?

i soak em real good then i flush them with 1/2 strength fish emulsion (with good pH also) this should hopefully fix your problem. it has done wonders for me every time i do it. you should see results (darker new growth) within two days.
it is also very low stress

I use fish emulsion because it’s organic so it is gentle on your plants. Contains N P and K so it’ll hook them up with whatever then need.

make sure the water is the same temp as the grow room so it dosn't shock them

Red/purple stems are common to N,P and K so it's not that helpful.
the dead spots are common to K but slower growth is more of a P.

i had very similar conditions and this has worked well for me.

[harris7]

they are flowering now. hmm i missed that. i havent done this during flowering so i dont know if there iwll be an effect from the N. It's a pretty small amount. probaly nothing. but you may want to look into it

[rustafa]

just a quick question how strong is the smell of the big bud and the smel of the northern lights. i heard northern lights barely smells at all just curious and the smell of big bud as well how is it.

[OregonsDank]

Harris, im not in bud yet , Im about to though - I want to fix my plants first I think.


How do I check the PH of my soil? I have one of those cheap drop bottles/ water testers for PH never really use it.


Also what is an easy way to " ph " water? I have been focusing on my lights/ venting / consistant temps, I guess now is time to learn about all this :(

[OregonsDank]

just a quick question how strong is the smell of the big bud and the smel of the northern lights. i heard northern lights barely smells at all just curious and the smell of big bud as well how is it.

I don't really notice much of a smell but I think its because my ventilation. Pretty strong.


My stinkiest one is the super skunk, if I brush my hand on it - totally wreaks :)

[harris7]

you'll need a digital pH meter really. it's going to become very costly for you other wise. As wel the drop method isn't accurate enough.

it is very easy to pH water and to test for pH. if you had a pen pH meter you would water your plants and collect the run off and test it. that is the pH of your soil.

to pH water you would test the pH of your tap water. then add pH up or down to adjust it. and just keep testing untill you get what you want 6.3-6.5

i've had a lot of problems with pH and it causes a LOT of problems such as salt build up.

i now pH my soil. which is creating a soil mix that has the pH i want 6.4.

to do this you get something basic (i use top soil) and something acidic (peat moss) then you make your mix with whatever you use worm castings perlite and so on. Then once your happy. take a sample of it and run water through it and test it. add some peat or top soil to bring it down or up. test again. keep going untill you got it right.

[harris7]

oh it will cost a lot because i use my pH meter several times a day. and if your paying like 1$ for each test using the drop method it'll get up there

[Splifted]

Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

[Splifted]

Nitrogen Deficiencies:
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.

[Splifted]

one or the other, i was thinking Mg cause it looked like the older leaves first, but on second look, the whole plant looks kinda pale. Look at my plant in the picture I posted, see how dark green it is? Feed them nitrogen and they'll turn like that. Mine actually may be close to too much nitrogen, cause how dark they are, but they haven't been showing signs of nutrient burn and are still growing fast. We took a break from feeding though.

[harris7]

i dont think it is Mg as i cant really see yellowing with green veins. and the burns arn't in the intervenual regions.

you know what it ;might be a disease. as it looks like the dead parts are causing the yellowing. Not yellowing causing the dead.

as there are burns surrounded with green. hmmm.

as well the dead spots are not uniform and dont follow a pattern. Which i would exspect from a def. hmmm very difficult.

[harris7]

question: does this disorder start on the lower leafs and work its way up. if so that would promote the idea of a mobile nute problem.

as the growth tips look fine i wouldn't think it's a immobile problem.

you need the pro's

[OregonsDank]

Ty very much for your time Harris7.


I am very sure my plants are to say the least... starving. My NL is almost 18 inches tall, 6 or 8 over the rest, so I feel I need to bud soon.. Would you guys, or you harris, wait a week or 2 till I fix them before budding, or would you bud now so I can get healthy clones and new plants in sooner.

Here are some pictures of them with a better camera.

[OregonsDank]

Btw, The plant in front center isnt leaning at all, I tied it down tonight, Very strong so far holds it self up very well, but some of the tops do seem to be curling?

[OregonsDank]

Ty very much for your time Harris7.


I am very sure my plants are to say the least... starving. My NL is almost 18 inches tall, 6 or 8 over the rest, so I feel I need to bud soon.. Would you guys, or you harris, wait a week or 2 till I fix them before budding, or would you bud now so I can get healthy clones and new plants in sooner.

Here are some pictures of them with a better camera.

Anyone have any suggestions for this comment?

I really need help figuring out whether or not to bud now or wait till I make them happier?

[santacruz_organic]

first off, you dont want to clone in flowering because you will need to reveg the clones and stress your plants when they need to produce. you can apply some lst training and tie down the main stock of the NL to get it close to the same size.for when to flower, wait a week or two after you clone and your plants are out of shock. the healthier the plant is in flowering the more energy it can use to produce the sweet collie bud.

[Splifted]

Yeah man, Nitrogen deficiency is my final answer, especially after that last pic of them all under that light, they definitely look like they're a little pale. I'd go ahead and try and make them happy, but I'm not sure. The thing is, they don't really need much nitrogen during flowering, but what nitrogen they do need they use up from the leaves, turning them yellow. I don't know for sure man, but i'd think it would be best to get them stocked up on N before swapping over. Other than that one with the spots though, they all are looking great, just a little hungry.

I can't wait to see bud shots of these things.


But yeah, as far as that tall NL, LST'ing is the way to go. Don't be scared to get physical on them bitches with some string, they'll thank you later. Check out my log man, ever since we started tying, I've noticed exponentially better growth simply because of the better light distribution. http://boards.cannabis.com/showthread.php?t=90199

[OregonsDank]

Ty for the replies,


I am kinda understanding one other aspect I over looked...

Ph is really important? Since I was going so light on ferts I figured it was fine, then today I found out the water I use is like 7.5 ph since triple reverse osmosis cleans my water, it has no minerals etc.. in it.

So I need food and a low PH so my plants can eat the food! I guess I will wait a week or 2 to bud , they are on day 30 or so of real veg now.

For the NL it has no main stalk, craziest plant. It goes up with a "main stalk about 6 inches, almost 5/8 inch stalk, then splits into 4 main branches and has no real top after that at all, the middle of the plant is the most empty light penetrates very well so im training those side branches lower and lower.

[OregonsDank]

first off, you dont want to clone in flowering because you will need to reveg the clones and stress your plants when they need to produce. you can apply some lst training and tie down the main stock of the NL to get it close to the same size.for when to flower, wait a week or two after you clone and your plants are out of shock. the healthier the plant is in flowering the more energy it can use to produce the sweet collie bud.

Santacruz, ty for replying - I was born in Santa Cruz btw :D

Ic well my only choice might be to clone after I reveg later on down the line because I dont have a 2nd room yet and no finances for it :( I have the clone lights but I wont be able to veg them unless I use a really shitty veg light.

I really want the 2000 watts over these 6 :D Clones are pretty easy to get in Oregon, so I wont stress that to much.

[Splifted]

Ty for the replies,


I am kinda understanding one other aspect I over looked...

Ph is really important? Since I was going so light on ferts I figured it was fine, then today I found out the water I use is like 7.5 ph since triple reverse osmosis cleans my water, it has no minerals etc.. in it.

So I need food and a low PH so my plants can eat the food! I guess I will wait a week or 2 to bud , they are on day 30 or so of real veg now.

For the NL it has no main stalk, craziest plant. It goes up with a "main stalk about 6 inches, almost 5/8 inch stalk, then splits into 4 main branches and has no real top after that at all, the middle of the plant is the most empty light penetrates very well so im training those side branches lower and lower.

Yeah man, go to the local grow shop and pick up a pH tester and some pH up & pH down. They sometimes will sell it all together as a kit. You want like around 6.5 for soil I believe, and even lower pH than that for hydro. That could definitely explain the apparent N deficiency. Keep me posted man.

[OregonsDank]

Well no new problems showing, still not really growing much though.


I found out I totally used the wrong fertilizer from day one.. It was made for budding >< like 3/8/5 dry powder fertilizer was all I used pretty much.. .besides a bit of molasses in the water.


So im going to continue to veg till they start growing again, I will start a nutrient plan after the pots dry out.. but they arnt drying out fast since not growing / using up the water.


I have lights on for 18 hours 74 degrees - 76 , 68 - 70 when lights off.

55% humidity with lights out , and 40% with lights on.



So long story short my only problem now is my plants are really drinking much.. and not growing much.. but starting to green up a bit more and are very strong.