My plant..

[Kush Over]

All right, first I'd like to say these are long over due. This is actually an experimental plant to get me back into growing, but it turns out it's probably one of the prettiest plants [ besides a few human error / fuck-ups ] that I've ever had the pleasure of seeing in person, and I'd like to share it with you all.

It was a shwagseed plant that recently revealed it's true phenotype expression -- that of a sativa dominant. I bet you're wondering, "So, what was the experiment mentioned?" When this plant only had three nodes, I topped it. I know people say not to attempt topping / FIM at that age, but I did it anyway and was pleased with the results, so.. I did it again. Six times to be exact, and some turned out to be accidental FIMs. Along with this I tried some LST, which later evolved into HST. Then a SCroG net .. thing .. that's pretty much comprised of an old mini-refrigerator shelf. It's funny, because the plant's essentially holding it's own SCroG net and doing a great job of it -- very strong plant. Strong enough to keep itself in shape, so to speak.

I started her under compact fluorescents --- 42 watts of warm whites [ 3000k ] and 52watts of daylights [ 6500k ]. Grew beautifully through vegetative for three and a half weeks until I decided to induce a 12/12 cycle which gradually climbed to where it is now, a 10/14 cycle. Then, I abandoned the fluorescents in light of an HPS, so now she's been under a 150 watt for the past week and a half. At first it was kind of close, as you might see by the burns on the leaves which kill me, but it hasn't effected the plant's health in the least. And the one thing I still can't get enough of -- she's a female, which was revealed to me two days ago when I noticed the first set of pistils. Now it's long since multiplied that number in pistils -- can't believe the hairs near and around the newest growth are up to half an inch long [ sorry the picture clarity isn't superb ].

So, tell me what you guys think; comments, insults, anything?

[sheist]

at the 3rd node?? how much is the yield coming for that plant??

Which is the 3rd node? the 3rd set of true leaves? or the 2nd set of tru leaves, considering the real 1st set of tru leaves were cotys??

[BukDatAss]

lookin good

[Kush Over]

The third node as in the third set of leaves -beyond- the cotyledons, the true leaves distinguishing it as one of the cannabis species and not any other dicotyledon -- I cut off what would have been the start of a fourth node. I should go into detail on that -- when I FIM'd it at it's third node, it produced three growth shoots. I didn't intend on FIMing, frankly it was an accident [ like it's discovery.. ]. Well, while the plant took the time to recuperate, two lower growth shoots were given the opportunity to grow in given the light exposure. So, I was given five there. I decided that I wouldn't touch the very top of the plant that was blessed with three heads [ LoL ], so instead I went immediately hacking at those two side growths at there second nodes. The result? The plant in the picture has seven growth shoots. Well, eight in total since one magically sprouted from deep in the canopy [ the one that's burnt in the center (poor little guy, I actually felt kind of fucked up..).

Well, hopefully since it just started flowering I can expect a little more foliage to make up for the burnt portion, but like I might have mentioned the plant went through an odd phase after the stretch going from 24/0 to 12/12. It stretched about eight inches [ it didn't fill that rack up nearly as much as it does now, not by a long shot ]. But then it kind of stopped, and for a couple of days these tiny, pear shaped growths started popping up, then by the third day stigmas were sticking out of each one in a 'V' shaped fashion. Now, it's on day six since it slowed in stretching, and it has many more of those pistils (hairs) showing up. My guess is that it's reacting to the light cycle change [ 10/14 ] and going into full bloom.

I don't know what the yield is for the plant, but given that most of my shwag comes from Mexico and further South, and that the plant is clearly a Sativa dominant, if a hybrid at all. I'm surprised it didn't go over two feet, pot included -- didn't even get close to it yet and it's showing pref lowers out the anus and slowed, as I mentioned. You can even see the ruler I set out in front of it at a side view as a comparison.

And I forgot to mention; the medium's Miracle-Gro three month continuous feed. It's pretty much fed it's way through those little fertilizer caps, because it's been guzzling down all the stuff I've been giving it [ 15-12-12 / 10-20.8-8 ] for the past three weeks with only minor boosts to the plant's already impressive growth rate. The fertilizers, as well, are Miracle-Gro.

[amstron]

let us know what yield you get off that

[Kush Over]

let us know what yield you get off that

Oh, fuck yeah, of course. I plan to keep this thread pretty well updated, even with shitty pictures [ LoL ]. Hopefully it won't take too long to flower, but considering that it's sativa dominant, eh.. We'll have to see, won't we?

[Kush Over]

Thought I'd throw up a couple extra pictures. First one's an over top view -- off to the far left you can see the shortest growth shoot. On the second photo I, again, took it with the ruler as a comparison in height except this time at a different angle. More hairs are popping up as well.

[karmaxul]

You are definatly a mad scientist, I love it. I have not seen a grow with shallow pots but seems good, how are the roots doing on the bottom. The top middle pic. looks like the light got a bit close. When she fills out you may consider spreading the colas out a bit to get good light to the bottom of the colas.
:thumbsup:
One love
c

[JunkYard]

Bushy as all get out...Very nice!

Are you using a 150 watt HPS "flood" light for the flowering stage? (The one mentioned in my "I can't wait" thread) I think I'm gonna go with only one plant as well under the same.

Well done, Kush! ;)

[Kush Over]

Karmaxul; Thank you, man. The shallow pot came to me after I was looking at how I would do my future grows and not so much my present [ weird, huh? ]. It's two gallons of soil, and the roots couldn't look better. My one thing is that I was always lead to believe the roots didn't agree none to well with light, but that's where the predominance of the roots are --- around the sides of the pot where light leaks are as opposed to the bottom [ on the underside of the pot you can actually see nothing but dirt in the center, and roots gradually creeping into it from the sides ]. I thought it might be lack of moisture towards the center of the medium, but that wasn't the case. I suppose since it's not showing any problems to the plant's health it shouldn't be any concern.

And about that burn on the center growth. The light did get too close, but I'm not too worried about it. Plant's going to have that burnt / bleached growth replaced and half a foot or more under canopy in no time.

JunkYard; thanks, bro. For a sativa dominant, it is pretty bushy. I could probably attribute that as a result of the higher kelvin CFL light I gave it during vegetative. That way, when it was time to induce longer night cycles with lower kelvin light for flowering [ 12/12 ], the stretch wasn't much. And, yes, I'm using that 150 watt flood light that's sold at Lowe's / Home Depot. It's pretty good, but it does produce a little more heat than you want [ nothing major, but at least a 30 cfm fan blowing directly on the housing itself is advised ]. I'd also keep the housing holding the ballast out of the grow space, if at all possible.

[JunkYard]

Sweet Sativa!

Kush, I hope I can get mine as healthy looking as your's...Nice and bushy! I love it! It does have a funny color to it, though. Did you say that would go away? No matter, it looks very healthy!

I'm getting one of those lights, and some flouros, too. One plant is enough for first round.

Keep us posted,

[sheist]

so wait.. u switched the 12/12 to 10/14 forcing it to bud??

[sheist]

u flowered it at the third node, which meant about 2 1/2 weeks..right? and you got that many budsites and STILl growin??

[karmaxul]

The roots grow to where the oxygen is oddly enough and not the light. It is interesting the tap root went to the side and did not grow to the bottom of the pot. Do you have a cold floor or somthing or trim the tap root to grow more stout. I would some times take a clone out of the tray and put it in a 8oz cup to veg. When I put in a one gallon to flower I would trim the roots on the bottom hoping they would grow thicker thru the soil. Dont know if it really kept the plants shorter as I supercropped them but it is somthing to try.

One love
c

[Kush Over]

..It does have a funny color to it, though. Did you say that would go away?..

It's the digital camera and the lighting -- the plant, in person, is an emerald green. Very beautiful for just 150 watts at 1.3 foot distance from the bulb. Personally, I still can't believe that's one plant -- all that from a few minute cuts.



...so wait.. u switched the 12/12 to 10/14 forcing it to bud??..

I originally only vegged it under 98 watts of mixed spectrum CFLs -- high and low kelvin. I did this for three and a half weeks under a 24/0 light schedule. During that entire vegetative cycle, the 24/0, it grew to about a foot with little more than a centimeter between each node. Then I switched it to the 12/12 regimen, kept it there for a week, then switched to 11/13 the following week and kept it for another week. Now I'm on my third week, going on the fourth, and it's on 10/14 and to stay at that until harvest.

So, in order, that's...
3.5 weeks / 24/0
1 week / 12/12
1 week / 11/13
Until harvest / 10/14


...u flowered it at the third node, which meant about 2 1/2 weeks..right? and you got that many budsites and STILl growin??..

I flowered it only after I had seen that the seven main stalks were health and had the beginning of alternating nodes, which was about 3.5 weeks. Well, a little less but I had to transplant to the container it's in now and wanted to let it recuperate for a couple extra days to add up to three and a half weeks in the end. And one of the only reasons it even has that many budsites is due to the Topping and FIMing, which were started at the plant's third node when it was about a week old.

Oh, and it's still growing all right! Must have packed on another .7 inch or so over night, but it's slowed substantially.


...Do you have a cold floor or somthing or trim the tap root to grow more stout..

Nah, my grow box pretty much never goes under seventy degrees and never goes over ninety. It might be that I transplanted about five days before inducing that initial 12/12 cycling. The roots and plant are still growing strong, so I'm not too worried.



All right, I'll be on later tonight. Thank you for posting and visiting, hope I maybe inspired some people -- maybe given some ideas. I'm still taking suggestions, so if anyone has any I'd be greatly appreciative. I'll try to post pictures tonight, so stay tuned.

[busteruk7]

looking nice kush

[sheist]

Thats like full out forcing the buds to sprout flower.. i didn't kno u could control the flowering stage

[Kush Over]

Thanks, busteruk7. I try.



..Thats like full out forcing the buds to sprout flower.. i didn't kno u could control the flowering stage..

You can't control it, per se. You can control the hours of light and dark to simulate, in nature, the planet's Northern Hemisphere [ or Southern ] tilting away from the sun. The shorter day lengths and longer nights tells the plant that it's time to begin producing -- that winter is on it's way and that it'll die if it doesn't start doing whatever it has to do. In this case buds intended to produce resin laden trichomes to protect seeds from pests and the environment.


Anyway, guys and gals, I'm going to throw a couple more pictures up here. Same foot long ruler bit so you can all make visual comparisons. Color in these photos is a bit better, as is the lighting. But they still do the plant no justice -- much greener in person. I can also see hairs on the plant from a distance now -- guess that's a good thing, eh?


[ LoL. Looks like a mug shot. ]

[mand]

Hello Kush :) I have to say love that is a very intresting plant, I really like the idea of multiple pinching, I actually keep meaning to try it myself but I'm affraid I just never get round to it :o

Also the 10/14 cycle, I do gradually adjust down to 11/13 in the flowering stages but I've never gone as low as 10 before. However it makes perfect sense to me, tricks the plant into thinking "Oh dear winter is coming, I'd best hurry up with the flowering";)

Hmmm and a shallow pot as well ............................. please keep the updates up kush, this I find to be a very good looking and intresting plant ;)



love mand xxx:)

[Kush Over]

Well, hello and thank you, Mand. :).

Yes, it is an interesting plant, isn't it? The plant was very interesting to watch over the first two weeks of it's life. Namely because of that reason -- the pinching -- which caused so much spontaneous growth that the plant literally out grew it's first box.

I made my way through a 11/13 schedule a week before the 10/14 that's it's currently in. I did it primarily because I wanted to find out the sex of the plant -- was getting a bit anxious. Plus I wanted to flower soon, anyway.

The shallow pot was to conserve a little space for the plant. It's a retired 2 gallon reptile terrarium with a single half inch diameter hole in the center at the bottom. The roots really haven't taken up much space from what I've seen -- not nearly as much as they should be, which could be good since it'll allow for a little more growth. I like it because it's got a decent sized medium capacity, and it's only about five inches tall -- more head room for the plant, as I mentioned.


I guess I'll throw up another picture. Same mediocre quality, but this time a more recent overhead shot.

[icebelowfreeze]

nice plant kush, looks really happy. u did all that with the flourecent and 150 W floodlight from home depot, brilliant, the 24, 12/12, 11/13, 10/14 looks like it has great results, do you use mylar? whats the temp in the grow space during the day?

[Kush Over]

Thank you, I try.

LoL. Yes, I did all that with under 100 watts of fluorescents for vegetative. Right now, at the moment, it's under the HPS.

I don't use mylar. I prefer flat white paint, easier for me to deal with. The grow box temperatures I let get up to around 85 degrees with the lights on, and about 73 degrees with them off. Since she's a sativa dominant, probably of the Mexican / Central American variety, it's best to assume that'd be the best temperature for her.

[mobay]

keep up the good work, nice job

[BukDatAss]

I'm loving this grow keep up with the updates

[Kush Over]

Well, I know I'm about a week late on this one.

The plant has grown a lot, but it was more of a combination of it stretching at the internodes and just the plant generally producing a couple more nodes, which I don't think it's really doing anymore of. The reason I say this is because the pre-flowering -- or I should say blooming -- has kicked in a bit more.

Thank you, Mobay and BukDatAss, I'll keep you as well as everyone else updated on this thread. Hopefully with it producing as many bracts -- and pistils from them -- it'll start to fill out more.

All right, I guess I'll toss a couple more pictures up here. Same bit as always, except no ruler because you can use the first pictures to compare it to now -- has gotten big. Also note the tiny, blurry ass white heads on each growth stalk. I'm pretty sure everyone knows what that means.

[mand]

Hello Kush :) well she is looking rather good, It's going to be nice to see all the stems when in full bud :)

You know I really have got to try multiple pinching one of these days, mind you not with the present grow :o ........................ maybe the next one ;)


Lovely job Kush ......................................... love mand xxx:)

[Kush Over]

Well thank you, Mand. :)

I know I haven't been updating lately, and I realize I should. Probably won't put anymore pictures up here until I can figure out exactly why this camera is taking such blurry pictures.

Must be old since I can't recall purchasing it. LMAO

Well, I can honestly say she hasn't grown vertically much since the last series of photo, but horizontal growth is a completely different story altogether. I separated the shoots a week ago, and this week more branching shot up from the 'SCRoG' level and off the sides of the shoots at their nodes, each topped with two nodes of their own and a ball of white -- and now RED -- hairs on top. Well, not all of them are red, some of them are orange.

I'm expecting a flowering time that could take as long as a 'pure' Haze plant, but I'm hoping not. Really, really hope not. :(

Anyway. Every thing's going fine with her, a few more burn spots at the immediate tops on some leaves where she had a run in with the light more recently but nothing stopping her.

[HungryMcNasty]

Damn Kush your plant is one of the sexiest i have ever seen. What kind of aroma do they have. I really like your experiment, it is very creative and welll seems to be perfect so far. much love.....NAssttyy

[Kush Over]

Well, hello everyone. How's everything going? I should have updated awhile back, but due to some circumstances I couldn't control I'm being forced to update now. Yes, forced to update.

It seems that I've run across a bit of a problem which I've managed to come to a few conclusions about. There's a bit of yellowing on a few of the of fan leaves, and it's not a localized problem such as just the newest growth or the oldest. The yellowing starts at the margins on some of the blades on the fan leaves, then gradually turns the yellowed area on the blade crisp. On some of the yellow areas on the fan leaves there's these dark spots [ necrotic lesions? ], but very few of them and only on about five fan leaves in a few uniform splotches between the yellowing 'bands'. Interesting facts regarding the fallen fan leaves is that only on the affected areas / blades is there slight purpling evident in the stem running through it to the tip -- not on all the fan leaves blades' stems, but only on the affected as I repeat.

Now, I originally suspected it was a pH problem when I decided to take a run off sample [ my testing crap is litmus paper. Yeah, yeah -- not entirely accurate, but it works. ]. The tests indicated a pH lower than what the strip could accurately pinpoint, so it was below 6.2, but I wasn't sure just how much. With that thought in mind I proceeded to flush the medium with ~8.5 pH'd tap water [ semi-soft ], and with the final half gallon of water draining I decided to test it's levels. The pH had risen to ~6.4 in the run off, the PPM of the water falling to just below 300 from somewhere above it. I'm hoping this solved the problem, but I'm willing to bet it may have been something else -- perhaps a lock-out, or a deficiency?

Another likelihood was that I was letting the heat get a bit high, but now that the heat issue's been resolved for about a week now with the yellowing problem seemingly persisting I can't help but feel that it wasn't the heat. Sure, there's minor bleaching on some of the upper most leaves nearest to the light that had a 'brush of death', but this doesn't explain the growth deeper in the canopy being afflicted.

Could it have been an excess of salts that I think [ hope ] I removed in the leeching, or something other? Mind you all I'm about a month and a few days into flowering. I'd like you to decide. Share your opinions, please. [ Pictures included ]

[Kush Over]

Here are some more, except of the plant itself. Should have gotten some overhead shots, but wasn't thinking. Sorry for the blurring.

As you all might see, the center shoots have been trimmed. I did this to solve the issue of them getting burned from stretching above the others and into the light. Hasn't effected the plant, stress wise.

[mand]

Hello Kush :). Well I wish I could help you with the problems, but to be honest I'm hopless with plant troubles, that's why I never really reply to those kind of threads :o.

One thing that does spring to mind though ........ How long has she been in flower now?.


love mand xxx :)

[Kush Over]

Hey there, Mand. :)

In regards to your not knowing the problem; I understand fully, believe me. I've been sitting here for the past week trying to figure it out myself -- I have ideas, just no definite leads. This is possibly the one thing I dread about growing, to be honest. A plant can't verbally discuss it's afflictions, so all we can go on is what we see, and from my perspective that's not a good view.

Thought I'd throw a couple more pictures in here. Slightly better, not very much so, though.

The overhead shot's a bit dark, but it gives you a semi-decent view of what the damage looks like from above. Perhaps one of you could provide some insight on the issue -- deficiency, lock-out?

First one's the left side of the plant, second the right [ obvious, kind of ]. Third picture's a better lit revised version of last night's shots [ the full plant ]. You'll notice I took a little time to remove excess foliage deep below the 'canopy'. I did this so the plant could concentrate more thoroughly on the growth shoots and their buds. I kept those few that managed to establish themselves above all the others -- those that have a fair number of calyxes on them.

[Kush Over]

Oh, I just realized what I forgot to add!

Judging by the earlier pictures -- those in this thread -- and my memory, she's been in flowering [ a 10/14 cycle ] since about the 13th of last month. That'd put it at 40 days [ ~5.7 weeks ] today -- I think.

Still high even though the holiday's over with.


And now come to think of it I don't believe I've ever given the plant magnesium, or at least fed it some inadvertently. The fertilizers I use come without it, but include just about everything else.

[Kush Over]

A couple more shots.

These were after I had foliar fed with some RO water mixed with diluted Epsom salt [ 1/8th teaspoon to a liter ] and 15-30-15 [ 1/8th teaspoon to a liter ]. She shaped up almost immediately after wards -- extended more leaves, improved in color just a bit.

Still, I'd really like to find out what the exact cause of the chlorosis is.

[Kush Over]

Closer inspections on some of the bud tops / upper branches.

[Kush Over]

Anyone have any ideas on this problem? I included a somewhat better quality picture of a primary affected area; keep in mind that it's like this in other spots on the plant, too.

The pH has been a little on the acidic side, but the overall health of the plant hasn't severely diminished which I'd expect more from a full blown lock-out due to acidity. I've got three gallons of water set aside for a flush in the event that this is the issue, though.

[Kush Over]

Not to be a dick, but..

Bump.

Can any share their knowledge on this yellowing issue, maybe someone's experienced near exact plant symptoms similar to those present in the photo above?

[Kush Over]

Guess I'll throw a post up.

I managed to pull the plant out of the slump it was in -- a lock-out from acidic soil. The soil pH is now stabilized and it's been taking up nutrients properly for the past three weeks. The bud growth has been quite an enjoyment to watch.

Below is a single photo and a very short clip titled 'Nineteen Days'. As the name implies it's a time lapse from the April 21st shot to today -- May 9th.

[Jdog7000]

Sorry man, I never saw this thread.
It looks like it was a ph problem. LOL!!!! jk

[mand]

Hello Kush :) , I have to say you have a very unique little plant there love;)

Seems to me that she is putting her energy it to bud development, I really wouldn't concern myself with the leaves.
You're doing this all under fluorescents, just lmagine what you could do with an MH/ HPS conversion ballast :)

Oh I wouldn't worry about replies on here, they are a bit slow just lately were grow logs are concerned. Keep the grow log going because I can't wait to see her harvested :)


love mand xxx :)

[postmandave]

this might help you out kush,sorry i never saw this till tonight.the postman.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

pH Fluctuation
Both of these leaves in pic1 and 2 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.


Ozone damage
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.



NUTRIENT PROBLEMS
Root stunting
Root stunting is characteristic of calcium deficiency, acidity, aluminum toxicity, and copper toxicity. Some species may also show it when boron deficient. The shortened roots become thickened, the laterals become stubby, peg-like, and the whole system often discolours, brown or grey.

Symptoms localized at shoot growing points.
New shoots unopened; young leaves distorted; dead leaf tips; pale green plant copper deficiency

New shoots withered or dead; petiole or stem collapse; shoots stunted; green plant calcium deficiency

Young leaves pale green or yellow; rosetting or dead tip; dieback; dark green plant boron deficiency

MOBILE ELEMENTS
Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.

Nitrogen (N)
Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.

Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients.

Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Nitrogen Deficiencies
pic4
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple
Nitrogen Toxicity

Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.

With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.

Phosphorus
Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.

Phosphorus (P) deficiency
pic 5
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.

Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.

Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.thepostman

[notorious P.O.T]

hey kush, this may sound like a dumb question but remember im a big time noob to the growing game. lol . but how did you get that many tops from one plant? and thats gotta improve the yeild vastly huh?once again thanx for ur help.