View Full Version : Nitrogen, Potassium or Magnesium Deficiency, or salt lockup.
challawa
08-08-2004, 05:55 PM
My plants are between 12-14 inches tall I feed Botanicare Pure Blend Pro in soil 3-1.5-4. My plants were very dark green and had red strips on upper stems and red fan leaf stems, I guessed this was N deficiency so started feeding. The first feeding 1/2 oz per gallon resulted in a growth burst, they loved it. So the next feeding 3 days later at the next water I used 1 oz per gallon recommended for aggressive strength and growth with the same results, however the red stripes or red leaf stems never went away. I noticed the color of leaves went to a lighter green and the leaves were soft and wet. I planned on leaching at 2 weeks, after 4 feedings at about every three days basically 2 weeks I noticed a down curling and drying of the newer leaves and dark green veins with light green edges on some leaves, not yellow "yet maybe". My plants are showing sex under 24 hrs light with many preflowers "many". It seems the larger plants with the most preflowers are showing the most symptoms. While the shorter bushier plants seem fine. As planned I leached the plants and the water ran out pretty dark yellow and has left yellow on the surface perlite. This is where the confusion starts.
On one point I worried that the plants have a nitro def. because of the red that never left and that I over did it with the nutes to quick and locked it up with salts, and my plants are still crying out for nitro.
On another point because the preflowering plants are showing more signs I worried that they are needing Potassium from the new preflowers getting ready to flower.
On the last point because of the color changes in the leaf I worried that it is early symptoms of a magnes def. and again to quick on the nutes and locked them up with salt.
I believe the leaching was a must and the leaves over night feel more pliable, but they are still way to dry for me. Some of the stems are also red striped and always have been along with the red leaf stems.
So now what ph balanced water with epson salt for the next watering or do I start with the nutes again slowly....and just how slow or do I start with another nute for flowering with a 1.5-4-5.
AAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH
My plants are ready to flower but I will not until I know I have a handle on this Please help. I wanted to post immediately for replies....I will try and post pics soon. Many thanx and respect. :cool:
bonbon
08-08-2004, 11:54 PM
give these a look....bonbon
http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Amphitheatre/5796/nutrients.htm
http://users.lycaeum.org/~npkaye/chart.html
challawa
08-09-2004, 05:27 AM
Bonbon.....you are a saint (In my eyes)....thank you.....the posts are wonderfull.....My plants look so much better after the leaching, but I can see I need to use magnesium....If you have more suggestions on the levels and introduction of nutes I will one up your sainthood. My plants still look great but I am a bit of a perfectionist.
challawa
08-09-2004, 05:50 AM
One thing I forgot to mention...I am using tap water that comes out at about 8.2 ph and I have been using white vinegar to bring the ph down....this only lasts about a day before the ph bounces back up, therefore I am assuming there is a great deal of buffer (dissolved solids) which may attribute to locking up nutes. I am trying to save money and not buy distilled water.....Are there any products (reverse osmosis, etc;)on the market that are reasonable in cost. I already have to have a great yield to recover my initial costs, this being my first time growing. I am beginning to wonder what I have gotten myself into here.
challawa
08-09-2004, 06:03 AM
Hey corni....In due time when I do my next leaching I will be looking into wood ash to help in the process...sorry for not giving props.
bonbon
08-09-2004, 08:47 AM
if you can let your tap water age for a day or two most of the sediments will settle,then run it through a funnel with charcoal(aquarium grade) and aquarium floss(coal on top of the floss) , pour all but the last inch of the water into another container,then use a ph down additive to adjust to about 7.0 and add your nutes,an RO machine will help,but is not necssarry,you can use cornys suggestion,but bloodmeal and compost etc...are difficult to control,you have to be careful of the amounts of the other things you apply(ferts&nutrients),so i think that PHing the water is a lot safer,when i was growing in soil i would only feed once a week,and water when needed,leach the containers every third week.then add and disolve1/4tsp of epsom salt to one gallon of water,and use that to water the plants with....bonbon
dont fret corny,you can steal advice from me anytime
bonbon
08-09-2004, 08:52 AM
that'll raise the PH,not lower it,so i wouldn't use it for an already high PH....bonbon
challawa
08-09-2004, 08:47 PM
These are all different strains from seed, but it seems size dictates the symptom....the taller the spindlier they have "become" with curling under and twisting tips along with lighter green between veins. take a look!!!
challawa
08-09-2004, 08:51 PM
I had a hard time getting everything in five pics
bonbon
08-09-2004, 09:05 PM
No signs of over or under fert,I think it's just a slight PH problem,watering with a PH adjusted water(about 6.0)should clear it up,and keep your nutes mixed at about(6.0-6.3)dont forget the mg...nice plants....bonbon
challawa
08-09-2004, 09:14 PM
The first pic is a very "average" plant in my collection....short bushy with fairly good health.....the next pic was the big growth and recently started forming small curling spindly leaves...the 3rd is the lightening of the green between veins on the middle leaves of the tall plant....the 4rth shows all the preflowers (for not looking good it's hairy)....the 5th is a bushier plant with a twisted tip on a fan leaf....the 6th is the tall plant with the dryer leaves curling under at the edges.....the 8th shows new groth color next to old growth color also the leaf margins are curling up on the old growth...
So all in perspective I have curling under, twisting, curling up on the margins, interveinal color blotch, spindleing and drying of leaves. hmmmmmm all dictated by size and preflowering rather than strain. Now what....do I treat the plants as a whole or individually....I have a feeling they are right behind or a little ahead of one another if that makes sense and to treat as a whole. again many thanks and respect for your time.
challawa
08-09-2004, 09:32 PM
bonbon....is white vinegar ok to use as a ph adjuster or should I buy a product specifically for that use....I am also using an aquarium ph liquid drop tester, should I spend the money for a more reliable tester? Also do you think I should give my plants a dose of bloom formula 1.5-4-5 just to be safe or continue with my veg 3-1.5-4 until I induce flowering? I can't tell if I need phosphate.
bonbon
08-09-2004, 10:04 PM
they contain the micro and secondary trace elements,i would use it(bloom) on the next feedings,as far as a ph down,i use nitric or phosphorous acid,I've never used vineger,aquarium testers are fairly reliable, If i may make a suggestion,"pyrosol"from general hydroponics is an excellent additive,it contains most of the necessary micro &trace elements,and is a good soil conditioner,....bonbon http://www.altgarden.com/site/additives/htmldocs/pyrosol.html
challawa
08-10-2004, 02:03 AM
Monty Python's Holy Grail is one of my faves thnx for the laugh corni
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.