Hey Z, what RH levels you recomend

[Stormcooker]

I am doing some fine tuning to a nearly perfect crop for the space I have to grow in. Although I may not be able to humidify or dehumidify the cabinet, I would like to know the RH levels it is running at in light and dark. I'm picking up a good digital hygrometer.

What levels do you recomend? Please break it down like this......

Veg stage lights off:
Veg stage lights on:
Flower stage lights off:
Flower stage lights on:

Please include any beneficial RH boosts or drops for certain stages or points in the lifecycle or any tricks to it you know.

Not sure if you are in the US but I would be happy to share my new Hash Plant seeds I got from Female Seeds .nl . It is a new strain they will be releasing soon.

THanks, Storm

[Zandor]

I'm in SoCal.

I wish it were as easy as one set range I use but in truth it changes with each cycle change. I'm not talking about just vegetation cycle and flower cycle but the in-between periods as well. You change the nutrient strength every week so why not tweak the environment to match? I believe it's best for the plant if you do but I am still collecting data of what percentage at what cycle. The results so far are amazing but that's just my opinion.

For vegetation you are good up to 80% for the first 3 weeks or so. A good mister on a cycle timer is great for foliage spray and to keep the humidity high.

As the plant matures into flower cycle bring the humidity down by about 10% as week until you hit 40% then you can finish with that just fine. Watch for mold or other problem it can bring (it's worth the hassle) and a good Sulfur vaporizer takes care of any of those problems.

A good dehumidifier has built in settings to control the humidity so you need to change it manually.

[Stormcooker]

Hey Z, I also use GH but I use Floranova. I am less experienced with the 3-part general formulas and specifying them to cannabis and it's cycles. I have read your recomendations and others about decreasing use of Nitrogen in the last weeks of flowering. I use KoolBloom as directed in the GH phase feeding chart for Floranova. I've read that some people will use KoolBloom alone in the later weeks of flowering which makes sense since there is very little if any nitrogen in it, and has the elevated levels of "P" and "K" which helps the flowering and ripening cycle. I am in the second half of flowering and I want to try using koolbloom as my sole nutrient to reduce amount of N. If I was to use just KoolBloom at my next nute change, along with my usual supplements (calmag, hygrozyme, floraliscous plus, and silica blast), can you recomend what TDS level would be okay with just koolbloom as the main nutrient? I am weary that if I use a 1500 ppm level with JUST Koolbloom, that it may be TOO much P and K. Don't want to overdo it. WHat do you think?

[Zandor]

Well it's hydroponics anyway so if there is any problem they are easy and quick to fix. Try it at the set number around 1200 ppm then add your other nutrients. If it turns out to be too much then just add more Ph adjusted water and that will drop the PPM real quick. Add about a gallon at a time until you know. Itâ??s easy to add more but it's a bitch to play the Ph up & down game, likewise the nutrient number game. Your plants will tell you if they are happy or not just look for the fan leaves forming a "V" for victory. That means they are happy. Once you stop feeding "N" the fan leaves will show sign of stress on the leaves. They could show spots and yellow but that's normal. The plant is using up stored energy in the leaves so it's ok if they even die off.

[oldsanclem]

The system needs a stable !!! ph with ferts.
I mix up the solutions in a 100 gallon tank, circulatin for about 1 hr, then check the ph and ppm. Adding ph up or down to a point of 5.2-5.4 with a ppm of 1200 over backgroud. At the end of the second hr, its usualy to the set point. Also use a circulation pump 1 hr pre fill to stablize the tank/s
Remember the larger the tank the easer it is to hit your target. With a small tank 5-20 gallons you must go slow. Or you'll be like a dog chasing his tail.
Now for the bottom line , watch your plants and see what they like, with your water and your system. Then you can fine ajust the ppm , to where they are happy.
Use good metered glass to make sure you add the same ph evey time. Never rush to adjust it ,,,,,sneek up on it.
If your going to adjust the ph on a hourly event of lighting I would suggest spending $5,000-$10,000 on a automatic system. Now thats just for the ph.
Omega.com has some great things to do that. National instruments , extech, to name a few.

[Stormcooker]

Is that guy talking to me?????

Zand, thanks for that recomendation. I will give it a shot at 1200 and go from there. Since last week when I needed to add nutes, I've been just adding light measures of KoolBloom, bringing it back up to around 1500-1600. I am blessed with a super stable and predictable pH level. The plants are really impressive. Very smooth grow all around. Take a look!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Stormcooker]

more........

[Zandor]

Very nice SC very nice.

oldsanclem - You can a Ph controller for less then 200.00 bucks on eBay. You will need CO² tank and regulator with a 120v electromagnetic switch but you can get one for less then 100.00 bucks from eBay.

I don't use one and have no need for one but you said they cost 5-10k and that is not correct.

I move my Ph up and down to match the plants cycle and the nutrient requirements at that point in time for the plant. An auto system does not give me that option and for me I get great results by varying my Ph.

It may not be for everyone but it works for me.