Dubb is back, deficiencies deep water culture, help! rusty color, what is it!?

[J-dubb206]

First i would like to welcome myself back to the forums :pimp:. Second i would like to issue a slight problem i have been nailed with. I am week 4 day 2 of veg in my deep water culture set up. I have been hit with a slight issue of some random leaves having a slight rusty looking color. I have been cal-maging water 250 ppm each resevoir. Thus makes me think it is something other than a calmag deficiency. I am using Cultured solution nutrients. Rightnow my ppm is sitting at around 650 give or take. No nutrient burn. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your replies!
-J-dubb206

[J-dubb206]

Bump, 159 views and not 1 response? Anything would be appreciated...
Dubb

[Shovelhandle]

I would stop the calmag. what is the pH? I'm not knowledgeable in DWC or hydro in general but the leaf photo looks like so many others. I'm sure you know that a deficiency can be caused by too much of another element.

[J-dubb206]

Why stop the calmag? Ph is at 5.7-6.1 when I swap out the water and and nutrients every week. I never change it after the intitial nute and water swap

[Shovelhandle]

I believe that cal mag can best be utilized when there is a deficiency evident. Folks with RO water may routinely add cal mag as they know their water source is lacking those elements. With well water or municipal water the solution could have excess calcium which can lock out other nutrients.
So, you can keep on doing what your doing and wait and see if things improve. Or maybe you can identify a deficiency and try adding more stuff.

[low_rdr]

On your next clean cycle, do water only for a few days, no nutes - Then push your PPM up to about 800 - No need for calmag unless your seeing a calcium defenciency or your 3-4 weeks into bloom. I've never used calmag in my DWC veg (only flower), and my girls have always been lush and green. Keep a closer eye on your PH, in DWC that 5.7-6.1 range is huge, keep it at a steady number, adjust daily if you have to. My range is 5.6-5.8 for veg. (I don't let it go over 5.8, and i take it down to 5.6 just before lights out)

You've got a really deep green color, which is nice and healthy - But they do need a rinse cycle, DWC is nice because you can constantly nute and get them up quicker, and flower them quicker, but the issue we often encounter is over feeding. I don't think that is the case here, but it is important that you rinse them for a few days and start fresh. I do exclusively DWC/RDWC (DWC for new strains, RDWC for crop) - Here is what mine looks like:

Clone - 2 weeks
3 gallon container (shallow) 12 sites per unit (DWC)
Gets nothing but PH'd water and Clonex Hydro Solution
Clones are in Riotcubes
250 PPM
5.6-5.8 PH

2-4 weeks
10 gallon containers (shallow) 12 sites per unit (RDWC)
30 gallon control bucket feeding 2 units
Nutes:
Start at 300ppm and slowly increase daily to 800ppm by the end of week 4
Fox Farm Grow Big Hydro
Big Bloom started on week 3
SuperThrive
PH 5.6-5.8 (The control bucket is always 5.7, but ph varies on the cycles)
PPM 300-800 Depending on week
RDWC is set for 15 minutes every 2 hours on a 300gph pump

Flower:
My week counter starts over here.
Currently I'm not flowering and not setup yet to flower as many plants, but will list my previous flower setup

5 Gallon buckets 1 site per unit 6 units (RDWC)
30 gallon control bucket
Nutes:
Fox Farms Grow Big Hydro
Fox Farms Big Bloom
Fox Farms Tiger Bloom
Molasses (weeks 3-5 in flower)
Calmag (weeks 3,4 or as needed)
Clear Res (Week 6) (I only use early girl phenos, so most my strains finish in 6 weeks or less)
I use two more additives here that don't effect growth, only flavor
PH 5.6-5.8
PPM Start at 900 slowly increase to 1200 by week 2
RDWC is set for 15 minutes every hour on a 300gph pump

Last 3-5 days I only use resclear + my additives that do not effect yield or plant health.

I check my PH at least 4 times per day. I've noticed when I hit 6, the plants don't like it... Cept for durban poison, that strain loves a high PH and I've gone as high as 6.8 in hydro with it, and it loves it.

Hope this helps

[J-dubb206]

Thank you everyone for you feedback, it was all very helpful. Unfortunetly none of the above has fixed my issue. I flushed my plants for a week and began giving nutes again at a lower ppm(500ppm). Thinking it may just might have been too many nutes. Tried to resolve the problem by less nutrients only because it can never hurt. But now with the ppm lower and my ph perfect at 5.8 i am seeing more deffiiciencies then before. Here are some pictures showing you what SOME of the leaves are having. PLEASE help me i have never seen this before.
THanks
Dubb

[Shovelhandle]

just a thought, can you check your pH instrument to make sure it's not giving a wrong reading? I'e gone through a whole grow chasing a nutrient problem that ended up being a wonky pH meter. Have you tried a light foliar feeding?

[lipps]

Why are you at 5.7 6.7 is where cannibus likes to be and at 5.7 some lock up can occur .

[Shovelhandle]

Why are you at 5.7 6.7 is where cannibus likes to be and at 5.7 some lock up can occur .

lower pH is recommended for most hydroponic applications, Lipps. 5.7 is within the acceptable range, as far as I understand hydro (I grow organic/dirt)

[polishpollack]

I didn't read this whole thread but just wanted to say that the pics in sept 8 post looks like overfert. Nothing screws up pH faster than overfert. Also, bear in mind that using a small grow space won't be enough, especially for hydro as they will easily outgrow a small space, when done right.

[Jbone77]

If your using RO or distilled water you can use 150 ppm cal mag, not 250. Too much is just as bad as not enough. Your plants are hungry, not overfed. If your using tap water you probably dont even need that. Distilled water, 150ppm cal/mag, add your bas nutes to bring the ppm to 800, let it sit for an hr, ph to 5.7, let it sit for an hr, if the ph is stable then run it.