help my buds hav got mould

[greenman0204]

Hey all. I am a first time grower and i am growing an afgahn kush ryder. She is about 2 week away from being ready and while giving her a final flush i noticed on the main cola that mould had started growing. I dont no what to do should i pull it now or can i just take off the infected bud to stop it from spreading?

[silent leprechaun]

Remove the bud as soon as possible.

Don't shake the bud or the spores will spread to other bud sites.

Keep an eye on the other buds for bud leaves going brown. This is a sign of mould. cut around the mould and throw it away... That mould is bad for your lungs.

Reduce the temperature and humidity of the grow room. Turn on a circulating fan 24/7 to keep the air moving. Let the plants dry out more before a watering.

Be sure not to touch the other bud sites after you touched the bud rot.. wash hands and scissors/blade afterwards.

I had a similar issue only lately...

I got this message from Rusty Trichome and it is very informative:


Molds, Fungi and Remedies

...Among the most common pests, are the molds and fungus'. They are on every surface in the world, and in every square meter of air. You can never erradicate it entirely, but you CAN make their time with your garden, a living hell.

When treating the plants, spray the tops, the undersides and the branches. A shot or two at the soil usually doesn't hurt, either. You'll possibly have to move the plants to avoid spraying the hot bulb or bulb ebclosure, or raise the light out of harms way. But do not spray a cold liquid on a 500 degree glass surface.

Do not foliar feed or spray the last 30 days of flowering. Moisture caught in the buds can promote molds, ruining months of work. If you MUST foliar feed or spray, do so in the mornings, so the moisture has a chance to evaporate throughout the day. It's best to restrict foliar feedings to the vegetative cycle through early flowering.

If you leave the plants in place for mold remedy sprays, always protect (raise) the lights when performing treatments that include wetting the leaves. This keeps the spray away from the reflector glass (which can break with the sudden change in temperature) and helps prevent any heat issue as the treatment is absorbing, settling, drying. After treatments, make sure there is no residue left on the leaves that will clog the leaf pores (the stoma) or block photosynthesis. Gently rinse 'em off if necessary, but don't create a condition that warrants more treatments. Once leaf surface is dry, return the lights to their normal position.

Keep in mind there are other treatments available for indoors, and a few more for outdoors. Those listed below are seemingly the most-common indoor molds, and their most effective remedies. Proper identification and using the proper remedy, can make the difference between mold being a minor inconvienence, and having a traumatic crop failure.


Gray/Brown Mold & Bud Rot - botrytis cinerea and botryotinia fuckeliana:
Prefers high moisture, low ph, and lower temperatures. An under-ventilated, overly-humid grow room provides ideal growing conditions for the attack, and these molds are among the sources of the damping-off of seedlings.
Thick buds tend to trap and hold moisture, making them very good hosts for the fungi. Both of these molds will result in tremendous loss of yield, as the fungi releases enzymes that dissolve organic tissue (leaves) to aid in the fungi's uptake of the plant's nutrients. But some of the infections can occur below the canopy in the darker underbrush, where airflow is restricted.


If you already have an issue, there are several methods of treatment/eradication.


Chamomile - is also effective in preventing damping off. (high sulfur content)
Brew a weak batch of chamomile tea, one tea bag to two cups of boiling water. Allow the infusion to cool, then dilute it so that it is a pale yellowish color. Add the cooled, diluted tea to a spray bottle and use as needed. This mixture will be good for about a week. Spray the seedlings regularly until they are transplanted, to ensure that you don't have any problems with damping off.

Compost Teas - can also be effective for the control of fungus by introducing beneficial bacteria, provides nutrients that can help a plant protect itself from pathogens and increases vigor and growth.
There are many commercial preparations and formula's nad many recipe's available online. But compost teas should be used fresh, and preferably within hours of being prepared. Maintain the aerobic properties by keeping the mix well aerated during the process. The tea should be dark brown, and not smell sour. If the tea smells of ammonia or smell rotten, discard. It has become anaerobic, and potentially hazardous. (e-colli, salmonella...)


Milk - is also effective against powdery mold, but scientists are still unable to determine why.
Milk spray can be made from 2%, whole, or skim. Effective at a 1:9 ratio (1 part milk : 9 parts water) but the ratio is effective up to about a 1:3 ratio. (30% milk) A solution of 30% of milk or greater, and a benign mold will form on the tops of the leaves.

Neem Oil - is an all-purpose natural pesticide. It works on arthropods, and provides protection from fungal and bacterial diseases, (including gray mold) and can be used prophyllactically against powdery mildew, preventing spores from germinating. Neem oil must be used with dishsoap per the instructions. It can be sprayed directly on the plant(s), or if there's a risk of 'blowing' the spores with the spray, (infecting other plants) it can be painted on both sides of all leaves and stems. (or both)

Rusty

Marijuana - Pest & Disease Control. How to protect your plants and win back your garden.
Ed Rosenthal, 2012

[greenman0204]

Hey silent leprechaun thanks for the great advice. I went ahead and chopped the affected areas before I see it reply and I probably haven't been as careful with the handling of the bud as I should have been but i willbe sure to keep an eye on it. Thanks again for the help.