View Full Version : Claw leaves? Whats going on
J-dubb206
12-17-2011, 11:36 AM
281007Hello all, i am trying to figure out what is wrong with my lady.
I have two suspicions, over watering or ph fluctuations.
If you have had experience with this same look and seemed to fix it please let me know.
Thank you
Jdubb
J-dubb206
12-17-2011, 09:57 PM
bump. noone can help me??
tinytoon
12-17-2011, 10:43 PM
overwatered and to strong a nute solution. I see ur running drippers, how often they run and whats in the bucket just Tron??
J-dubb206
12-17-2011, 11:23 PM
Tinytoon thank you, your always giving me very helpful feedback. I run the drippers twice daily for 5 minutes. In the pot there is rockwool cube where the plants were growing until the roots started growing out of the bottom. I then threw them in pots and surrounded with hydroton. I have not watered that plant for 3 days now and i am seeing no real improvements. Thus far all my other plants are doing flawless, but this one is giving me troubles.
Thank you J dubb
GaGrown
12-18-2011, 01:36 AM
I'm kinda new to the hydro revolution.. Maybe like tiny says...Over fertilized. My net pots are full of hydroton and drip 24/7. No problems as we speak. But the rockwool cube I used was the little 2x2 cubes. It has since grown out of that tiny cube as to where I see yours look to be 4x4.Right? The dripper is emitting into the cube,saturating it thus that is where the problem may lie. I know rockwool has a science to using it properly. Try a smaller cube with more hydroton net time. You could even water on a more frequent basis. You'd have better drainage as well. I would flush that plant. I hope some of this helped.
Ga.
J-dubb206
12-18-2011, 05:34 AM
Yes the rockwool i am using is 4X4. I will flush that one tomorrow. So are you saying instead of drippers being placed in the cubes i should put them in the hydroton?
tinytoon
12-18-2011, 12:52 PM
yes put them in the tron instead. Those friggin RW cubes/blocks are like super sponges, its amazing how much water one of those things can hold. My advice for future would be trash the RW and go to Rapid Rooters. Nute burn I was going by the leaf tips. Also not saying there isnt a PH issue but giving best advice I can atm. What is PH at??
GaGrown
12-18-2011, 01:56 PM
I've since done as tiny has suggested. I went from the 2x2 cubes,to the rapid rooter plugs. I've got 12 cuttings in them now. About 2 or 3 days from rooting. Any kinds of non disolving matter will be absorbed in the cube and burn your root system.Thats why you shake the nutes before you mix.Then shake somemore! There are solids in those bottles of nute we all buy. More hydroton will give it the chance to acctually flush itself somewhat,thru regular watering schedule. If I've learned anything about hydro,it's this... You screw up it in hydro? Very hard to turn it around versus,soil.. It's more forgiving than hydro. I still love dirt,too.. By the way. Everyone needs a lil' forgivness one in a while! It's taken me 10 years to even consider doin' any type of hydro.
Ga.
tinytoon
12-19-2011, 12:04 PM
It does appear that in Hydro the sh*t can hit the fan real fast and you dont have as much time to fix things. The one thing that is said over and over in Hydro is PH ..... PH ..... PH :postreadfaq:
If you dont have a PH pen get one. The little liquid drops from the fish store is only good to +/- .5 because of how close the color scale looks. In Hydro 6.5 is as high as you want to go but your drops could miss lead you and you could be sitting at 6.8 which will kill ur plants. 5.8-6.2 and ur a winner. Also for new people u need to know about PH drift. Ph rising SLOWLY over few days time in veg is normal but did u know it goes the opposite way in Flower?? If you have PH where it needs to be and dont try to nute them to death you can grow pretty much anything, even with a single CFL. Your yeild will suck but it will grow.
Lastly if you think Hydro is unforgiving them dont look at Aero because that is even worst lol.
bigsby
12-19-2011, 03:03 PM
Also remember that nutes and other additives chance the color of the water rending those fish strips/drops useless...
tinytoon
12-19-2011, 11:17 PM
Good point I didnt think of that :)
GanjaRobPDX
12-24-2011, 02:09 AM
281098
This is a Myron L T6 pH/TDS combo meter.
No probe replacement needed, just keep it moist and recalibrate every 3 months.
I have owned these meters for over 8 yrs and no fails.
downside... they cost around $400. In the long run that saves $ though because you dont have to buy probes.
These are extremely accurate meters. put two side-by-side and test water from the same source and you will get the exact same reading. try that with digital meters.
Good call with the over watering... all i could see was the hydroton so I didnt think that was possible. But rockwool is, like you said, a super sponge.
Good luck with your project.
By the way, if you really like top feed set-ups, try using 1/4 minus pea gravel. I know it sounds strange, but when I tried it I have never seen roots more bearl in my life. plus its super cheap and so heavy there is no way a plant will tip over.
J-dubb206
12-25-2011, 09:46 AM
Thank you all for the feedback, my plant is now finally starting to grow semi healthy new growth.
J-Dubb
polishpollack
12-26-2011, 03:15 AM
If I could chime in...
The reason why aeroponics is so unforgiving is because of the greater oxygen content. This method allows roots to be exposed to more O2 which is critical to prevent roots from drowning but also creates much more fert uptake. This is why it's necessary in aero to reduce the amounts of ferts you use, or you'll cook your plants. There is a more narrow window in aero where for example you might have a ppm that works but fluctuates between 900 and 1400 in DWC, you have to keep a close eye on an aero grow because the ppm window is much smaller, maybe 700-900 ppm. A good ppm/pH meter becomes necessary in hydro. Worth the expense though, because when done right your plants will kick butt. I suspect that if you're growing in hydro and overwatering is thought to be a problem, you could either reduce your pump run times or provide more oxygen. Or both.
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