help with sprouts under mh w/ pics

[MRDiff]

What is your experience level? Novice. Second timer, trying to get it right this time. My concern in the yellowing of the false leaves before they really have 4 real leaves. They started out fine, sprouting between the 13th and 16th but in the past 4 days, I have not seen too much growth. I have adjusted my lights from 3 feet to as close as 2 feet, but the 2 feet seemed to make things worse. Is it possible that 3 feet is still too close for 6 seedlings? Thanks in advance for any help

Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. MH 400
.2) Distance from tops? Almost 3 feet
.3) Reflector type? Batwing
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? yes
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? 4" can fan intake at bottom, 8 inch desk fan exhaust at top of cabinet.

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil: 1/3 Jiffy Mix, 1/3 Perlite, 1/3 Mushroom Compost
.8) Size of container: Solo Cups
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? Seeds went straight into soil.

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? Sink. Have been allowing the chlorine to evaporate. PH is about 6.
11) Method of checking water ph. aquarium test kit
12) Method of adjusting water ph. PH Down
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? Once every 3 days or so. One seedling oddly has an overwatering droop.
15) Any additives or tea's? No, still too soon
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? Stable

Your growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors? Indoor
20) What size of closet, room or hut? 6 foot tall wood cabinet, 3 feet wide, 1.5 deep about.
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? high 70s with lights on, probably mid to low without
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? No

Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) Sativa
24) From seeds or clones? Female Seeds and Seedsman Feminized Seeds
25) Is this an autoflower strain? No

[Rusty Trichome]

My concern in the yellowing of the false leaves before they really have 4 real leaves. They started out fine, sprouting between the 13th and 16th but in the past 4 days, I have not seen too much growth.

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil: 1/3 Jiffy Mix, 1/3 Perlite, 1/3 Mushroom Compost
.8) Size of container: Solo Cups
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? Seeds went straight into soil.
Jiffy mix is a seed starting mix. Usually too fine for longer term growth, and seedling mixes are buffered to a lower ph, if I'm not mistaken. (a ph of around 5.8) Fine for seedlings, but way too low for growth phase. You'll want a buffered medium (potting soil) and keep ingoing water and nutrient mixes between 6.3 and 6.8 ph. The buffers in potting mixes (often called potting soil or soilless mix) will help keep you on the right track. If ph goes outside acceptable range, the plant can not properly uptake and distribute nutrients.


Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? Sink. Have been allowing the chlorine to evaporate. PH is about 6.
11) Method of checking water ph. aquarium test kit
12) Method of adjusting water ph. PH Down
Again...too low with your ph. 6.3 to 6.8 including (future) nutrients and/or additives. Since you are using the color coded ph kit, I'd aim for the high end on feeding days. All nutrients I've ever used lower the ph a couple of decimal points. And if you try and ph a liquid tinted with colored nutrients, it skews the results beyond accuracy. (same goes for runoff water) Aiming for the high end before adding nutes should keep you out of trouble.

The rest seemed ok, but which nutrients are you planning on using?

[MRDiff]

Thanks for the reply. Is 1/3 of my soil being jiffy mix going to be a problem or only from a pH stand point, due to the added lime? I was pretty certain peat moss and vermiculite were both good to include in my soil mix. So over the next week or two maybe I should increase the pH of the water to 6.8? Also, I hadn't bought nutrients for this grow yet, but still have some dynagrow and bloom from my last one. I was however thinking of upgrading. I heard good things about the Canna line. Any particular ferts you would reccomend? Thanks again

[Rusty Trichome]

Peat, perlite, vermiculite...all good. It's just the particle size and what it's buffered to that's a problem. (if ph buffered at all)

Once you start with the nutes likely 6.8 would be fine on feeding days.
On non feeding days, and on plain watering days, I'd go with middle of the road. 6.5 or 6.6.

I haven't used Canna line, but it's been around a while and is popular, so I'm guessing it's fine. Most 2 or 3 part nutrient systems are solid. But use caution...some are rediculously overpriced and more a result of better marketing and packaging rather than better ingredients and results.

[MRDiff]

As with most products. What brand is solid, but not overpriced?

About the sprouts; Should I wait til they need to be watered again or should I flush them with a higher ph water? Is a low ph consistent with the lack of growth and yellowing of the false leaves Im seeing?

[Rusty Trichome]

Well, there's Canna, Fox Farms, (which I use) Dutch Master, Botanicare...just to name a few. Some even have a weekly feeding schedule available online, usually on their company website. Retailers usually don't cary the schedules, and on-bottle instructions are not always cannabis-friendly.

The sooner you correct your ph problem, the sooner they'll start to heal. Flush with properly ph'd water, (ph'd to the high end) and a transplant into potting soil if possible.

[MRDiff]

Thanks Rusty. Im out to pick up some Fox Farm soil and nutes as well probably. Should I try to transplant then flush it with the pH adjusted water right after?

[Rusty Trichome]

I'd just water with properly ph'd water, and wait to change soil when you up-pot. (transplant into a larger pot) They're usually good in the seedling mix for 3-5 true sets of leaves, at which point they should be getting a little rootbound anyway. I've heard a lot of good things about Fox Farms. (I've used their nutrient trio for years) I've never used their soils though...

[MRDiff]

Good call Rusty. I transplanted them and flushed just to be sure. The damaged leaves died but new growth is coming in strong.

[Rusty Trichome]

Good job and good luck. :thumbsup

[MRDiff]

Thought I would update the thread to show all but one of my seedlings have recovered. This is them about approximately two weeks. Problem now is I planted 2 more seeds when I noticed the originals werent doing so good. I have 7 plants now under my MH 400. Can my MH and HPS 400W handle the grow all the way through with 7 plants or should I try to give one away to a friend or something?

Edit: Also forgot to ask, in about 3 days I was thinking of adding 1/3 the recommended dose of Foxfarm Grow Big. But then again, the Foxfarm soil says it can feed up to a month. Some advice here would be appreciated. Thanks

[Rusty Trichome]

Glad to hear they're doing good. :thumbsup:

Too soon for nutrients, per their size. Would give 'em another week or so before even thinking about nutrients. Have you downloaded and printed the Fox Farms weekly feeding schedule available from their website? If not, it's a good idea to do so.

Number of plants will likely be limited only by available footroom in the growspace, but I used to fit 6, 3 or 5 gallon pots under each 400w HPS. (I'm under CFL's for growth phase and 1000 watts of HPS for flower, now-a-days) But I'd do 'em all if you can fit 'em in the growspace. The longer you wait though...the harder it is to cull them. :jointsmile:

[MRDiff]

Another question as my plants continue to get larger... I read that for each foot of height you want about a gallon of soil space. I want them to max out at about 3.5 or 4 feet, as I have six feet of vertical space. Can I get away with using 2 gallon pots or do I need to finish with atleast a three gallon pot? Im asking now, because Im going to order all the pots I will need shortly on ebay. Thanks guys.

[MRDiff]

Anybody have experience with double potting? Would it a good idea to double pot a 1 gallon pot on top of a two gallon to achieve a large enough container without taking up the space of the 3 gallon pot itself? Im realizing Im limited to space as far as depth and width go (32 in x 12 in). My height is fine at 6 feet.

[Rusty Trichome]

My personal opinion, I'd go with the three gallon. Keep in mind, the tighter you pack 'em in, the less branch space (and air circulation) they'll end up with.

Also, don't forget about reflector height (size) and the buffer space necessary between bulb and plant, and the pot depth. Some leggy sativa dominate's might still reach your upper limits, so training might be necessary if that's the case. :thumbsup:

[MRDiff]

So growth has been good, but I am having a few of the lower leaves turning yellow and dropping slightly. Is it time to upgrade to larger containers? I ordered some 1, 2, and 3 gallon pots but they probably wont arrive until tuesday or wednesday. Check the pics and let me know what the possible issue could be.

[Rusty Trichome]

I germinate in similar sized pots as your cups, and usually I'll wait till the leaves start overhanging the edges of the cup before transplanting to a gallon container. Those are still pretty close to the lower limits though. (at least in my garden)

Likely, the nutrients in the soil are fading.
Either you can transplant a tad early knowing the FF potting mix will keep delivering the nutrients at least for a few weeks, or you can mix a 1/4 strength batch of Grow Big, and give some to one of the plants that look the 'worse'. (did you go with the Fox Farms Trio?) Try the nutes on one, and make sure applying it was a good thing.

The main problem with adding nutrients in the Solo cups, is it's a drag having to mix a half-gallon batch, adjust the ratios, and only use a portion of it for feeding. Once mixed, it doesn't store well.

The main problem with transplanting early, is the necessity to water deeper and over-applying the nutrients to such a small plant. Not overdosing per se, but the smaller the container, the quicker the plant uses what you give it, according to plant size. (tiz easier to monitor and regulate the nutrients) In larger pots with seedlings or youngsters, it's easy to fall into a routine of feeding the pot, rather than feeding the plant. That can screw-up a garden in no time. (overfeeding and overwatering)

In other words...it's your call. :thumbsup:

[MRDiff]

New pics. Growing right along. The oldest batch turn one month tomorrow. Im hoping to veg 2-3 more weeks, then start flowering in July. One of the White Widow plant's leaves seem to be narrow compared to the others. Is this a deficiency or just a characteristic of the pheno?

[Rusty Trichome]

Sativa and sativa dominate strains often show long, slender fingers on the leaves. If leaf structure is fine, it's normal. :jointsmile: If pinched where the fingers meet the petiole, and leaf margins were curling in that spot, there would be a problem.

Are you sticking with the MH for flowering? HPS is the best HID system for flowering (IMHO) but a full spectrum MH or a conversion bulb would do in a pinch. The conversion bulb a special bulb that burns HPS spectrum in a MH ballast. (I believe they also have 'em for the other way around, HPS to MH) Do not try to use a HPS bulb with a MH ballast, or vice-versa.

Have you checked to see how many larger pots you can fit in there?

Looking good though. :thumbsup:

[MRDiff]

Switching over to the HPS 400 for flowering. As far as space, I over estimated a tad, as expected. So, I can fit three 3 gallon pots and two 2 gallon pots. Can I complete two of the plants in a two gallon container and sacrifice some yield? The plants all seem to be doing well, and I already had to kill two others. I was thinking of LSTing at least 2 of them. Last grow I tried that, I didnt anchor the stem at the base and it caused a stunt in growth. Any suggestions of LST besides wiring the stem to the container?

[MRDiff]

More plant problems. The upper leaves show yellowing on the tips. The bottom leaves are yellow and some of the leaves have some tanish spots in them. I just finished the 1st week of half strength of the Big Grow Fox Farm (1 tsp). Dont want to give them nute burn, so what seems to be the issue with this one?

[Rusty Trichome]

Finishing in a 2 gallon pot can get tricky. They tend to get quite rootbound. Any way to put the drainage rocks in the drip tray and use the extra space in the pot for soil...? ( hint, hint ;))

The plants will take a week or so to get used to the nutrients. Likely the yellowing is the plant using the mobile nutrients in the leaf. Have you added anything else to their schedule? Anyway...I'd keep on schedule, and keep an eye on 'em. Holler if it get's worse. :thumbsup:

In that space I think I'd let 'em grow without LST'ing, as I'm positive they'll fill-up the space. A single plant LST'd in there might work, two would likely be overkill...more would be...unnecessary.

Regarding pot stacking...it screws-up the plant height and is a big pain in the butt. I'm pretty sure I did a thread on pot stacking. You might want to do a search and have a look...

[MRDiff]

Mmkay. No, I havent added anything. The only other supplement I have is Cal Mag or a similar product (I think its called Magi Cal). Scrapping the LST idea, as height really shouldnt be an issue in my case. I was only going to do it for the benefit of a higher yield. Better let them alone rather than risk snapping a stem or something.

As far as the yellowing bottom leaves. My main concern was the beige spotting and burn lookin tips. Ill watch em over the next few days.

Finally, what was your suggestion as far as drainage rocks? I havent been using any. I just filled the pot with Ocean Forest. Was this a mistake? Thanks for your continued tips. Im tempted to make this a grow log, because your one of the few knowledgable people to frequent this board, but I dont want to jinx the grow. Ha

[MRDiff]

Another thing I noticed, is the new leaves have been growing in kinda of curled (not canoeing, but slanting I guess) and skinny. They fill in eventually but I dont remember them doing that prior.

[Rusty Trichome]

Just noticed you had the ingoing water at 6.0 ph. Too low. Between 6.3 and 6.8 ph is acceptable in a peat-based medium. (your 'potting soil')
Nutrients will bring-down the ph further, but once the water is tinted, you can't get a proper ph reading with the aquarium test kit. Likely best to get the water to a 6.8 ph or so, before adding nutrients.

If you want to know the ph after adding nutrients or if you want to check runoff ph, you'll want to save for an accurate ph meter. Not a soil probe, but a ph pen or meter.

Flush with properly ph'd water. For seed germination and very early seedlings, (first week or so) the lower ph is acceptable. Now she's telling us it has become unacceptable and she wants her ph raised, or she'll shut-down and lock out the nutrients. (and she means it, too :thumbsup:)

I appreciate the compliment, but am not the only source of info here. Matter of fact, I still learn stuff from you guys every day...

Most folks add drainage rocks to their pots, so the rootball won't sit in standing water when overwatered. I put my rocks in the drip tray instead. Adds more space for potting mix adding to the available rootspace. Plus, no need to pick-out rocks from the rootballs when transplanting.

[MRDiff]

My pH hasnt been 6.0 since you originally corrected me two weeks ago. But as far as pH, it could be incorrect because of the drops.

I woke up this morning and my best plant now looks like my worst. More yellowing on the lower leaves, more spotting. Ill post pictures shortly, but Im afraid to take any action, as now I have no idea whether it is too much nutes or not enough.

Main question:
The others seem to be doing fine; certain that this is a pH problem and not a nutrient problem? I think my regular water is at 6.8 and my nutrient water is around 6.3. But like you said, Im unsure how accurate that is with the drops.

[MRDiff]

Just flushed the plant. But it actually had that droop to it before I gave it the water this morning.

[MRDiff]

Also, you cant tell by the picture. But the petioles towards the top have a slight yellowish part where the fan leaves all meet

[Rusty Trichome]

<sigh> Local connection problems...keep getting booted and spotty connections.

Still might be a ph issue, my CalMag was rediculously acidic, likely yours is in the same ballpark. But I stopped using it quite a while ago, and am unsure of actual ph. Something in the low 4's, I believe...
If using the MagiCal solely for replenishing R/O effects, a little dab will do ya. They'll need the full-strength product a couple weeks into flower per directions, but trace ammounts are all they need for now. Perhaps 1/4 dose, once a week. I prefer unsulphered molasses, but you've already got the other.
We can rule out rootbound since you recently transplanted.

But about the drainage thing...
Are you letting them sit in standing water with no drainage to prevent soil issues like nutrient lockout, mold, root rot and other assorted trumatic problems? Big bad no-no.
Might want to raise the pots, add some aquarium rocks or similar to the drip tray, and replace the pots. I use cut-up plastic milk crates. I cut 'em into 5" squares to fit in the bottom of the tray. Anything waterproof and mold resistant works if it keeps the roots out of the water. If the pan fills enough to reach the bottom of the pots, bad things happen to the soil...so empty the pan.

They look water stressed, so let 'em dry pretty good before the next feeding or watering, whichever is next. Possibly from the feeding, but I couldn't finish uploading your pix of the pots in the pan. Took forever downloading, but crashed before I could see the pan. Is there a puddle of water in the pan? (looking into your habits, lol) You keeping a fan on 'em at all times?

Use care if those are terra cotta pots. (lemme guess...plastic?)
Just in case...With terra cotta pots, it's tough to control moisture loss, and tiny roots love to grab ahold of the pores, and can be problematic for transplanting. Just use care, and one firm whack.
You're in FF soil, right? And just transplanted? Kinda jumping the gun with nutrients. Give 'em a couple/few more weeks, they'll suck it up. Resume with 1/2 dose of the Grow Big and 1/2 dose of the Big Bloom (if you've got it) after they use-up the soil nutes.

Gonna post now before I have to do this again...
<whew> Third time I've tried to answer. Was going to give-up for the day. Sure wish we had cable here in the boonies...

[MRDiff]

Ah! That sucks about the internet connection issues. I know what thats like. Actually, the two plants in the terra cotta were rootbound. I thought that those terra cotta pots were larger but I upgraded them to the 1 gallon plastic pots like the others are in. The terra cotta planters were actually ceramic (a pain in the ass to get the plant out of there!). The gallon pots were about double the size of the terra cotta ones. So they'll fine fine in there for another week or so before I transplant them all to the 2 gallon.

I havent used any of the Magical this grow yet. As far as drainage, I have holes in the bottom and have aluminum pans underneath. I dry the water up after I water them. But your idea is for me to put rocks in the aluminum pans correct? Edit: I acutally have the plants in two pots because I was concerned about the large drainage holes. To clarify, I didnt double pot. Just stacked two pots, one empty underneath the regular one. This allows the soil to always be about an inch about the drip trays anyway. Does that sound like an adequate way to keep them dry?


My feeding week starts tomorrow, and I will be feeding them 2 tsp per gallon of the grow big (which is 2/3 strength). Then the following week I will go full strength, then the week after I will want to start flowering I believe. Unless from the looks of my plants, I need to alter the schedule.

[Rusty Trichome]

I've had the terra cotta experience. Once. :jointsmile:

Using the other pot to lift the plant out of the runoff is fine, and is a good idea. Just trying to cover all the bases. :thumbsup:

Plants, like people, have a rough day now and again... Nothing looks overly traumatic, and likely is something as simple as rootbound and/or transplant shock. Old leaves are old news, but keep an eye on the new growth.

Are you using the Grow Big as a stand alone...no Big Bloom? If so, doubtful that 2/3 dilution strength would do any harm. I've been using the FF line for years with good results. Not sure if you've heard, but when using Fox Farms, salt build-up might show it's head. I do monthly flushes, (1st of every month) to prevent this. (1 gallon of properly ph'd water to one gallon of pot size)

You can also split the weekly dose in half, but feed twice a week. You end up with the same weekly quantity of nutrients overall, but are 'softening' the effects of a full strength application. I've been doing this for a few years now. Older seedlings (3rd or 4th true leafsets) and rooted clones seem to prefer this approach.

Ya might have better results by letting them have a couple of weeks of the growth nutrient schedue before the switch. Push the process too quick and they tend to stunt the growth, affecting yield. You'll want to make sure they are good and healthy when they switch to flowering. (are you going to be using Tiger bloom in flower?)

[MRDiff]

Im using Tiger Bloom in flower, yes. I didnt get both Big Bloom and Tiger Bloom. I figured one veg and one bloom nute would be sufficient. My plants are doing decent, but I noticed some brown spots forming on the tips of the leaves. Some of the lower leaves are still yellow on two of the plants. But I noticed Grow Big does not have Calcium. Will I have to give my plants a little Cal Mag soon because of this? I noticed that calcium is vital for growth and I think I have seen a decrease in the rate of growth. Also, one of my plants is drooping regularly. Seemed to perk up after I watered it, and then later in the day the leaves were drooping again. Any ideas? Pics coming in a few.

[Rusty Trichome]

Once degraded, leaf integrity usually doesn't improve. (old leaves are old news)

Big Bloom is a catalyst tea formulated to compliment the Grow Big and the Tiger Bloom.

I've been using unsulfered molasses instead of CalMag Plus for a while now. Molasses has all the calcium, magnesium, iron and carbs you'll need. 1 teaspoon per gallon, once a week. Molasses does act like a 'nutrient kicker', so using a slightly lower dose of nutrients untill you are used to the stuff, is recommended.

Usually, slight leaftip burn shows when you are reaching the upper limit of nutrients. (slight nutrient burn)

Does the soil the problem child is in dry quicker or slower than the others?
Is it directly in front of the fan, or in a corner of the growspace? Pictures of the problem child would help.

[MRDiff]

The problem plant does seem to drying out slightly quicker than the others. The surface is actually still a little most, but when I felt the soil within the drainage holes, it felt almost bone dry at the bottom. This is also the smallest plant, so it is possible the roots have not made it to the bottom of the pot. Here is the pics. Both of the brown spots, and other the drooping plant.

Like I said, Im certain this plant has not been over watered, so what could be another cause of drooping? Its the one in the 3rd and in the back of the fourth pic.

The plant is located in the back of the room right now. I got 3 plants up front, 2 in the back. It in the back, not very close to the fan.There is good circulation in there, but its not near the intake fan.

[MRDiff]

Also do I have to make a third gallon jug for the water with a half teasponn of molasses or can I just add the mollases into my regular water jug?

[Rusty Trichome]

If you are not getting water to the lower regions of the pot, it can 'crust' and not easily absorb water. Especially when underwatering. A surfactant (wetting agent) helps. I use 1/4 tsp of non-antibiotic dishsoap per gallon of water. (anti-biotic soaps will kill the beneficial bacteria in the soil)

I use the molasses on a non-nutrient day, in properly ph'd water. No real reason, other than it gives the plant something to do while waiting for feeding day. (plus, it lowers the ingoing ph a tad more, which the nutrients already do)

Was just wondering if it was placed in a dead-zone of heat, stagnant air or over-breezing. (directly in front of the fan) In a cramped space, usually the plants in the back seem to get less water.

Intake fan...? Do you have an exhaust fan too? Intake fans are usually unnecessary, unless in a tightly sealed tent, enclosure or closet, where air leaks (providing the fresh air) are non-existant.

[MRDiff]

Yes I have both an intake and exhaust. The exhaust fan is a 8 inch circular desk fan, and doesnt go nearly as fast as I thought it would. So I am thinking it may get too hot in there without the exhaust. I took some pictures to show how my set up looks as far as where the plants are. The one is question is next to the intake fan, but obviously not being affected by the fan itself. However, it may be dead area as far as circulation goes. Also, the cabinet is light proof except at the top. Come flowering I need to figure out how to light proof the 8 inch exhaust fan area. I used weather stripping and duct tape to light proof the sides, but you can still see a small amount of light coming from the cabinet near the hinges. So the cabinet is only 99% airtight. I will pick up some molasses sometime soon and add that to my regular water. Hold tight for the cab pics.

[MRDiff]

Huge new problem. So thursday morning I had to leave for vacation for only 2 and a half days. That morning I woke up to find my MH bulb had died. So I quickly switch in the HPS. Well I guess I should have flooded them before I left. Im not sure if the HPS caused the plants to fry out quickly or what, but I came home to wilted leaves and dead leaves at the bottom. Halted growth obviously.

I already flushed them with a gallon of water each (this is my first flush). Do I need to saturate them more than 1 gallon? Im not sure how to proceed, but one of the plants looked close to death. Do I continue the nutrient schedule as normal? Thanks for the help

[Rusty Trichome]

<DOH>

I would at the very least cut back on nutrients till you see some new growth, and raise the lights a tad. Shouldn't take more than a week or so to start seeing major improvements, at which point you can start thinking about resuming normal schedule and lighting. Do all the clean-up work at the same time. What I mean is, don't pull a few leaves today, a few tomorrow, a few the next day. Get it over with, and let her start healing. Stretching-out the stress over time might do more harm than good. If most of a leaf is fine but has crispy ends, chop the dead ends, leave the good parts. Use clean scissors for this, don't tear 'em off by hand.

Keep the leaf litter out of the pot. Bugs love the protection of leaves, to hide and breed under.

Overstressing the roots isn't a good idea right now. The one flush likely helped greatly, but keeping the roots saturated is a no-no.

Minimum of two or three weeks before even thinking about switching to flower.

Should be ok. Cannabis is pretty tough in the growth cycle. Almost like a weed. :thumbsup:

[MRDiff]

Great. Seems like I handled the situation like I was supposed to. At this point, a 2-3 week delay is no biggy. Basically if I was to put them into flower, I would probably risk them herming, correct?

This morning, they all seem to be doing well after the flush. There is one questionable one, but even it is looking better. Who plants could dry out completely in only 48 hours. I wont be making any trips, other than day trips for the rest of the grow I believe. Way easier to maintain them, then correcting them when you come back.

So to confirm, you would not increase the nutrients for about a week. The fact that I flushed the plants wont make them hungry? I dont want to go from one problem to the next. But Ill hold off on the nutrients in the mean time.

As always, thanks a lot.

[Rusty Trichome]

Great. Seems like I handled the situation like I was supposed to. At this point, a 2-3 week delay is no biggy. Basically if I was to put them into flower, I would probably risk them herming, correct?
Correct. You'll want healthy, normal growth before switching to flower.


I wont be making any trips, other than day trips for the rest of the grow I believe. Way easier to maintain them, then correcting them when you come back. Being unemployed does have it's advantages, but I haven't been on a vacation (for more than a day) in over 8 years. This isn't a hobby any more, it's a way of life.



So to confirm, you would not increase the nutrients for about a week. The fact that I flushed the plants wont make them hungry? I dont want to go from one problem to the next. But Ill hold off on the nutrients in the mean time.
She'll get hungry, but let her rest a bit before demanding rapid growth via the nutrients.
Depending on the severity of the damage, she has everything she needs for repairs stored in the remaining stems and leaves. When you flush, you aren't flushing the plant, just the soil. Regardless, doubtful you've removed ALL the nutrients from the soil. Would have to have been one hell of a flush, lol.
Don't get too pushy with her, or she may well push back.

[MRDiff]

Four days later, I am seeing much improvement, but I noticed one plant has 'the claw.' As well as it's new leaves are growing it deformed and twisted, as well as canoed, making the leaves look very thin. Another plant may be starting to do the same thing. Ive been laying off the nutes this week. I just upgraded them to larger 2 gallon pots, as they were slightly rootbound yesterday when I transplanted. Lower leaves seem to continue to die. Is this residual effects from mistake of letting the soil dry 4 days ago.

[MRDiff]

Some new pics are overdue I think. Especially with the deformed curling leaves on the Lemon Skunk. There are pistils on all 5 of them now also. Another small issue, I probably need to put these into flower within a week and a half, otherwise their height will definitely exceed the cab.

[MRDiff]

Im still stumped on this issue, Rusty. The plants havent had a dose of nutrients in the past week, except for the Magical. Some of the other plants have a pleated texture to their leaves, with lighter shades of green. But the main plant is still growing leaves with curled tips. Pretty sure the leaves canoeing created the tips of the leaves to point down.

[MRDiff]

Some of the lower bigger leaves are turning yellow from the outside of the leaf in, I think. I am going to post more pics and hope somebody helps. I am torn between whether it is a nitrogen deficiency (as my lower leaves are loosing color and turning yellow) or nutrient burn. I have been going very light on the nutrients, but I see the tips of some of the leaves yellow and brown. The claw has taken control of two or possibly 3 of my plants. Any help is greatly appreciated. The pics tend to make the plants look greener than they are.

[MRDiff]

Will a little bit of nutrient burn be an issue for putting the plants into flower? I flushed about 4 days ago. Problem is theyre about half the amount of head space I have available (when taking light distance into consideration). The plants leaves have stopped dying. I may be able to put off another 3-5 days, but they are quickly growing. And im worried about out growing my cab

[LetsSeeYa]

Will a little bit of nutrient burn be an issue for putting the plants into flower? I flushed about 4 days ago. Problem is theyre about half the amount of head space I have available (when taking light distance into consideration). The plants leaves have stopped dying. I may be able to put off another 3-5 days, but they are quickly growing. And im worried about out growing my cab

I think id wait till you get these issues under control before putting in flower, because problems are harder to correct in flower. Looks to me to be N issues, but go with what Rusty has ya doing. I could be way wrong, but just saw this page, is it hotter then shit in there, looks like it.

If they get a bit bigger then ya want, you can always tie em, just so as to bow them a bit to give ya more room. It wont hurt anything, but a little time.

Good luck bro:cool:


:rasta:

[MRDiff]

Thanks for the reply. Because some of the leaves I thought were N deficiency. But at the same time I saw burnt tips and figured it has to be nute burn. The problems should be under control now. As far as the heat, I think its pretty reasonable. I have the lights almost 2 feet off the top. What made you think heat issues? The curled new leaves? Maybe the intake fan I have would be better used for exhaust, but I already have an exhaust fan. It is an 8 inch desk fan, but its power is just average.

[MRDiff]

Need help identifying these black spots on one of the plants. Looked for signs of mites, did see any. Can I spray some fungicide (diluted neem oil) as a preventative measure? Can I spray while the lights are on?

Or maybe it is something else entirely. Thanks for the help as always.