hydroton

[morebuds4me]

Can seeds be started in pure hydroton, or do they need RW or some other media to start in?

[Zandor]

You should start seeds in peat pellets...Rock Wool may have a Ph problem if you donâ??t cure it right before you use it. Peat moss washes off easy when you move them from seedling stage to vegetation. Transplant them to the grow rocks when they have good root structure and about 4 sets of true leafs.

[morebuds4me]

thanks for the info.

[BILL THICK]

.... Peat moss washes off easy when you move them from seedling stage to vegetation. Transplant them to the grow rocks when they have good root structure and about 4 sets of true leafs.[/QUOTE]


what can you put the seedlings in once they have germinated and leave the seedling stage. Where or what do you put them in during the time which they are to be in the vegetation stage and before you put them in the grow rocks; if you had the seeds sprout in the peat pellets or in rockwool cubes.
thanks
bill

[Zandor]

When I used peat pellets (I still do for growing from seeds). I just transfer them to grow rocks (after washing away the peat moss) once there is good root growth established. Leave a little room to add more grow rocks once the plant has established it's self with new roots.

[BILL THICK]

cool Zandor that is what I have done just seems a waste if they are not female to put them in the big 5 gallon containers I have for flowering stage. If put in a one gallon container of grow rocks lined with a screen couldn't you pull the screen and all out and transfer to 5 gallon container later? My concern there would be if the window screen would create a problem later? nylon window screen not metal?

Hey Zandor , have not seen a question you can't answer. Your quite an accomplished person , yet you take your time to help out others. That deserves alot of respect in my book . thanks, Bill

[Zandor]

Well thank you bill thatâ??s very kind if you sir.

To try and answer your question I can only apply logic and share experience from my past mistakes. A screen would work yes and your idea will work. On the downside and things to look for is slim roots and stress. When you transplant established roots you always run a big risk of shocking the plant. A screen will hold grow rocks but it will also hold in a lot of crap too that sticks to the screen and does not filter through. This could change the Ph, the PPM concentration of the nutrients too. Have you ever seen when they put chain link fence under the water to hold in rocks and make a dam or levy? The chain link will always have slime growing on it because of lack of water flow at that point.

Iâ??m not saying anything bad will happen but one thing I have learned is to avoid the appearance of a problem and donâ??t go looking for one. Problems will find you on their own soon enough with out youâ??re help. Well that what I have found anyway. Drainage is a big thing getting the water away from the root ball is very important and not having a damp area is also important. Once the screen fills up with slim (and it will) then at that point there is less water flow and less air flow and that is very bad for a healthy plant. Stress free is always better for growing.

You would think you are saving time and effort but in truth you could be setting your self back a few weeks at least. The time you saved you now lost and stressed the plant in doing so.

Iâ??m not saying this will happen but personally I just try not to be the one who messed up my plants once the roots are good and set.

[BILL THICK]

thanks Zandor, Its funny how after asking a question how ya answered it yourself when ya ask it but there is always that uncertainty that that needs confirmation from a person who is experienced before one is able to accept the logic. Trying to limit the extent of my inquiries to just such queastion is not easy when , like me, your a newbie. Many many many more things to consider than I anticipated and I am barely moving into vegetation stage. lol Well looks like I am back to the hydro store for more Hydroton , stuff is $30 a bag ....yikes! I'm sure I am bound to be a nuisance long before I become profficient so expect to see a bit of me the next couple months lol
thanks, bill

[Zandor]

As always Bill your questions are always welcome. Feel free to e-mail me too if you need to or find yourself down this way we can have a coffee or beer sometime.

[BILL THICK]

Thought I responded to your last post, Zandor, but I must not have posted it. thanks for the kind offering to answer what you can of my questions. And that cup of coffee or a beer sounds good I'd like to take you up on that sometime, thanks.
The PH if I am not mistaken should be set at 6.4 - 6.5 is that correct? I keep coming across the figures 5.6 -5.7, am I missing something here? which is correct?
When growing bubbler style is the water level in the beginning of the veg stage supposed to be just below the net pots or are the pots supposed to be partially submerged? and does the water level change any for the flowering stage?
I was also wondering what everyone does with the Nutrient water that is removed from their bubblers or nutrient resevoirs when they change it periodically? is their something it can be used for beneficially or do ya just toss it?

Thanks again, the help is very much appreciated,
Bill

[Zandor]

I like Ph for hydro 5.5 to 6.2 even though some strains like 5.2 for hydro. The absorption chart calls for 5.2 being perfect but I have found different Ph levels react in a different ways during the cycle of the plants growth. Keep a daily log of your Ph, PPM and how the plant reacted. The next time you grow is a good reference to learn from. The water level should be kept above the air stones by several inches but not touching the net pots. You need the air gap for oxygen to get to the roots. You maintain the same water level for the whole grow. Change the nutrients every 7-10 dayâ??s. When the water level drops in between changes just add Ph adjusted water to bring the level back up to operating level. I feed my wifeâ??s roses outside and the fruit trees with the used nutrients.