YELLOW NEW GROWTH WITH YELLOW VEINS ON THE OLDER LEAVES STUNTED GROWTH

[foggyman]

HI THERE EVERY ONE THIS IS MY FIRST POST HERE SO HELLOW TO YOU.

NOW MY PROBLEM....

What is your experience level? (first timer growing with proper kit, 10years reasearch and outdoor growing exp.)

What type of hydro set-up are you running? im running a 20L 5 plant NFT WITH ADDED 90MLH FOGGER. 2X110L AIR STONES, 30L header tank.

Your Equipment:
A) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's) HPS DUEL SPECTRUM 600WATT, STANDARD BALAST.

B) Distance from tops? 24INCHES

C) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...) BAT WING.

D) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 600WATTS DUEL SPECTRUM HPS 18/6

E) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? YES EXTRACTED/SUPPLIED BY A 280CMH FAN-360CMH CARBON FILTER-SILENCER. ALSO USE A TEMPRITURE ACTIVATED 280CMH FAN WITH FILTER AND SILENCE AS BEFORE.

F) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? YES BOTH 280CMH.

G) Size of reservoir? 20L

H) What medium if applicable. ROCKWOOL AND SPREADER MATT

Your nutrients and water:
I) If using rockwoll for clones or seedlings, did you rinse the cubes well, with properly ph'd water? YES AND STABLE @PH5.8

J) Source of water. (tap or filtered) What's it's ph? FIRST 3WEEKS ON TAP WATER PH 7.4 CORRECTED WITH PH DOWN PHOSPHORIC ACID TO 6.0 NOW ON RO WATER PH6.2

K) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. CANNA AQUA VEG AND FLORA. 50ML A+B, 75ML CANNA ZYME, 20ML 6% SILICATE PHOSPHATE.

L) What is the ec/ppm of your unadjusted tap (or filtered) water? 0.4 BUT NOT USING ANYMORE

M) What is the ec/ppm of your nutrient solution? 1.3 EC DOWN TO 0.9EC THEN TOP UP EVERDAY AT LIGHTS ON BACK TO 1.3EC

N) What is the temperature of your nutrient solution? (reservoir high and low temps) 20DEG LIGHTS OFF 22DEG LIGHTS ON.

O) Does your ec/ppm show a rise or fall when you do your daily PPM check? YES FROM 1.3-0.9

P) Does the ph fluctuate? YES FROM PH5.5 TO PH6.0 BECAUSE OF THE HEADER TANK.
Q) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you
spray? (Just after lights come on, just before they go out...) YES WITH CARBONATED WATER AND A 0.4EC SOLUTION OF CANNA HAVE ALSO GIVEN ONE DOSE OF EPSOME SALTS WITH 15PPM OF ZINC CITRATE

R) How often do you replace reservoir water/nutes? What does it look like before changes? (clear, foamy, green, brown...) AT THE MOMENT IM ADDING ABOUT 4L A DAY FROM THE HEADER TANK SO I CHANGE EVERY 5 DAYS.

Your growroom:
S) What size of closet, room or hut? 4FOOT WIDE 3FOOT DEEP 6FOOT HIGH

T) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? LIGHTS ON 25.1DEG-51%R/H.... LIGHTS OFF 19.7DEG-63%R/H

U) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? APIDS... TREATED WITH PEST OFF, 10 LADY BUGS(STILL ALIVE) 250 APHIDIUS(STILL EMERGING)

V) Are the roots long and white, or brown and slimy? THE ROOTS ARE PURE WHITE, LONG, GROWTH BECAME EXPONENTIAL AFTER FIRST WEEK OF FOGGER BUT NOW HAVE LOST THERE MICRO HAIRS..

Your strain:
W) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) INDICA DOMINANT SENSISTAR

X) From seeds or clones? MY CLONES FROM SEED

Y) Is this an autoflower strain? NO

ADDITIVES.
20ML 6%SILICATE PHOSPHATE
5ML BAC2LIFE
1ML CANNA BOOST


MY TROUBLE IS MY PLANTS HAVE STOPPED GROWING, ALL NEW GROWTH HAS TURNED YELLOW. ALL LEAVES LOOK DULL. PROBLEM STARTED AS YELLOWING BETWEEN THE VEINS. AND SPREAD FROM THE CENTER OUT. OLDER STEMS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN PINKY RED. THIS IS NOT STANDARD WITH THIS STRAIN.

REMOVED FOGGER AS FEARED OVER SATURATION WITH WATER. SLIGHT INCREASE OF GREEN. LEAVES LOOK MORE PERKY. NEW GROWTH HAS NOT GOT WHITE DEPOSITS AT THE EDGE OF THE LEAF ALMOST LOOKS LIKE A WHITE PURPLE POWDER COATING.

I HAVE FLUSHED 24 HOURTS WITH PH ADJUSTED TAP WATER. CHANGED RES. CHANGED RES AGAIN AND NOW USING RO WATER.

LEAVES NOW SHOW MORE GREEN AND NOT SO YELLOW.

PLEASE HELP I WAS DUE TO START 12/12 ON MONDAY THIS WEEK BUT HAVE HAD TO DELAY..

I HAVE LOOKED AT SICK PLANT PICS AND SEEMS LIKE MULTIPLE DEFFICIENCIES MAG-IRON-SULPHUR-ZINC OVERDOSE IN PHOSPHORUS

[Rusty Trichome]

Been waiting for a hydro guru to answer, but I guess they are...unavailable.

I'm no hydro guy, but looking over your troubleshooting form, I'd quit the carbonated water, lower humidity and just use your nutes as directed till you figure it out. Most hydro nutrients programs have all you need, so you might want to stop with the additives, as they might be adding to a lockout situation where the plant can't uptake anything. Once you figure out the stress, perhaps you could resume their use, unless they are the cause.

The carbonated water clogs the pores, and is the likely source of the duskiness and the powdery shit. Rinse all the leaves off with a gentle spray (top and undersides) with properly ph'd water. The sugars in the carbonated water makes everything sticky, and attracts bugs, too. Not worth the impercievable benefit, if any.

More air circulation, and/or less spraying/fogging. When flowering, you'll want to keep the humidity levels down to avoid bud rot and mold.

Also, is 24" as close as you can get the bat-wing? Since she's stressed right now, it's likely a good idea to raise it a tad, but is that normally where you keep them? (sounds kinda far)

Hopefully someone with hydro experience will come along to offer advise about your levels and schedules and such.

Good luck.

[polishpollack]

Foggy, no offense but that sounds like a really complicated grow effort. Why not just stick some powder fert in a bucket and call it good? You plants will be fine if you do that. Don't forget to add water.

[the image reaper]

Foggy, no offense but that sounds like a really complicated grow effort. Why not just stick some powder fert in a bucket and call it good? You plants will be fine if you do that. Don't forget to add water.

you NEVER " stick some powder fert in a bucket and call it good " :wtf: ... ALWAYS thoroughly dissolve fertilizers in your water, before adding to your plants ... concentrated fertilizer can kill your plant ... :smokin:

[foggyman]

Been waiting for a hydro guru to answer, but I guess they are...unavailable.

I'm no hydro guy, but looking over your troubleshooting form, I'd quit the carbonated water, lower humidity and just use your nutes as directed till you figure it out. Most hydro nutrients programs have all you need, so you might want to stop with the additives, as they might be adding to a lockout situation where the plant can't uptake anything. Once you figure out the stress, perhaps you could resume their use, unless they are the cause.

The carbonated water clogs the pores, and is the likely source of the duskiness and the powdery shit. Rinse all the leaves off with a gentle spray (top and undersides) with properly ph'd water. The sugars in the carbonated water makes everything sticky, and attracts bugs, too. Not worth the impercievable benefit, if any.

More air circulation, and/or less spraying/fogging. When flowering, you'll want to keep the humidity levels down to avoid bud rot and mold.

Also, is 24" as close as you can get the bat-wing? Since she's stressed right now, it's likely a good idea to raise it a tad, but is that normally where you keep them? (sounds kinda far)

Hopefully someone with hydro experience will come along to offer advise about your levels and schedules and such.

Good luck.

hey there mate and thanks for helping out....

i think you might miss understand me on a few points.

first of all carbonated water does not have any sugar in it at all.. the chemical signature is h2co3 =h2o(water)+co2(carbon dioxide). i also make my own by adding co2 to ro water.
it has been proved that folar spraying with h2co3 is the best way to add co2 to the plant.

the residue is not from the carbonated water(aka carbonic acid) it was coming from the humidifier. as this was effectivly folar feeding with tap water.

humidity for the groth cycle is 50-70%RH only in the later part of flowering say from week four onward would you reduce the RH to 40% to stop bud rot. lower humidity levels than stated close the stomata..

i am using my nute the way thats directed. im using a lower level than stated by canna.

the additives i use have been stopped but are very important. some people pythoff i use bac2life which is a natural micro culture. boosts the roots and eats pyrythium. protects the plant inside and out also.

i use silcon for disease protection and to increase the thickness and lushness of the stems and leaves

as for more air circulation i have a total of 560 cubic meter per hour going through a space the size of a double wardrobe??????? i think thats about 3.7 times more than is recomended by the cannabis bible. but dont quote me. humidity ios not a problem for me.

the spraying was only to folar feed mag,zinc etc. and only started this after seeing the problem.
folar feeding by the humidifier has been discontinued...

the fogger was placed in the res, so that the fog came up and into the root zone. in NFT systems this is covered to eliminate evaporation. in the first week of adding this the quadrupled in size. as im supper cropping. the growth was outwards. covering about 2-3inches a day of outward growth. i realy do believe that this was the problem and was over saturating my rockwool cubes. i dont know if i said but the pump that feeds the res was 90% blocked and so there was virtualy no flow of air rich water to the root zone. add to this the 100% humidity caused by the fogger. and you have an oxygen def.

over watering i have found can cause lock outs of many nutes mostly noticable are zinc,iron,mag,sulph,cal.

the hight of the reflector is 24inches now but has been @ 18inches untill the problem showed its self. since then i have backed off to 24inches to give them some time to heal....

its all doing my head in and i have already gone back to basics.
removed the fogger, humidifier, misting with ro water and 15ppm A-Z micronutrients, light moved to 24inches, ph double checked with fish shop. actual nutes checked(cal,mag,iron,GH,Kh,) all within the canna range.

i have always used the same method stated in the lucas formula to work out how many often i need to do a res change.

also if im feeding to little the ph will drop and if im feeding too much the ph will drop. mine is very stable.

i also build up the nute strength untill the plants showed tip burn then i dropped back by 0.2ec. plants then grew at 2inches per24hours untill the problems started....

things are returning to green and i have added back in the silicon. i will not need the humidifier anymore thank god. i want to use the fogger again as this is the future of cannabis growing. the fogger need more working out i think a side by side test will be done soon.

as for complicated setup. its all so easy to maintain. compared to soil growing nft is the easiest system i have ever run...

as i said this is the first time i have used a fogger and this is the first time i have ever overwater a plant since changing over to nft. i have never had problems like this before.

reference pictures on the net show multiple def's in my plants. as the ph is fine and im staying tight on the nute and additives the only other thing that can cause lthese types of lock outs grouped together is overwatering...

i have added five pics so you get a better view of what im faced with. these are from today and so there not as bad as 3days ago.

i totaly appreciate your help guys but.... i need help on quite an advanced level.

i need some one who uses nft of foggeres if theres any out there..

or a plant doctor..

[foggyman]

i forgot to say that the plants are 18days old.

i went to correct some spelling mistakes and words i missed out. woops im dislexic but my edit was canceled as it took longer than 10mins.

sorry if i have misspelt somethig or missed a word out...

sorry for being moody but this is realy peeing me off. and i am realy thankfull for ALL thoughts and ideas....

iv been growing since my 18birthday when i bropught some seeds back from st lucia in the carribean....

inside, outside, pots, in the groud, gorila, nft, ebb and flow, gogaponics (lol) iv done alot and researched even more. i doubt theres a paper i havent looked at hahahaha. obviously didnt read the papers well enough have i hahahaha..

[Rusty Trichome]

Gee. It's nice to see an experienced gardener at work. But excuses will kill your ladies. Obviously there's something amiss, and I'm willing to bet it's more than one thing. Reading your troubleshooting form, I could easily spot a few potential issues (despite your protestations) that would be most gardeners starting point. But imagine how in-depth we could have gotten were you to have filled the form out to the best of your ability and with all the facts. I'm sure there's a lesson in here. Just not sure how to recognize it. Any ideas...?

Anyway, I'm in here often, and am quite familiar with a number of different growing methods and styles, and although I'm not a hydro guy, I can recognize when someone is attempting a technique or two that can be counter-productive in the growroom. Let alone all the leaf-stress you add continualy with the nutrient fogger, bug stuff, high humidity...on what appears to be on a daily basis. You mention humidity isn't an issue, but according to answer 'T' from the form, you are at 55% (ish) average, plus fogging and spraying. Yes...humidity and respritory stress is an issue.

Can we make this easier...? Which technique(s) did you add to your growroom strategy after your last successful crop? (nutrient fogger, CO2 sprays...chosing what dilution is best and not following instructions...new bug sprays...) What additives did you start or stop since your last successful crop?

Also, there's a link in my signature regarding plant myths. If you would be so kind as to at least read the link I placed below?
Foliar Feeding Myths (http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Foliar%20feeding.pdf)
Despite being an agricultural refrence, the basic plant biology is the same.

Or, wait till someone else (with more experience than I) chooses to chime-in. It might well be that you are right. After all...I'm just filling-in for the hydro guys, and it might just be a ph thing.

[foggyman]

HMMMM i have revised my info please read.... also added some more pics of pic 1 root zone note the lack of mirco hairs.
pic2 comparison picture of leaves.(from right to left)grow tips, normal leaf, sensistar leaf from mother under 150hps, ak47female leaf from mother 45watt florecent.
pic 3 is the end of the carbon filter and seperate air intake supplied by 280cmh fans
pic 4 is primary fan plus silencer.
pic 5 is my headertank and how much water is used in 24hours

please ask if you would like me to show pictures of anything else. or more detail...

now then ...
where would you have started???

about the folar feeding. if the ph is fine then the roots are not taking up the nutes. only way to add the nutes if this is the case is to folar feed.

which of my techniques that you understand are counter productive??? and why please.

Let alone all the leaf-stress you add continualy with the nutrient fogger, bug stuff, high humidity

the nutrient fogger is undercover and the fog does not leave the root zone. have a look at an NFT tray picture dude. the fogger is under the root cover.

i only sprayed once with 1/2 strengh pest off which is 100%natural and organic. its none systemic also. as recomended by the bug supply site. i am now using natural preditors such as the ladybugs and the aphidus to prevent annd controll all the pests commonly found in cannabis grow rooms. those ladybugs are tirless hunters.

humidity..
VEG 50%RH-70%RH.
FLOWER1ST HALF 50%RH
LAST HALF 40%RH..
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO COPY AND PASTE ANY LITRATURE THATS SAYS OTHERWISE AS I HAVENT SEEN ANY OTHER FIGURES IN 10 YEARS OF LOOKING. any thing below 50%RH in veg is counter productive as the stomata will close and cause slow growth due to poor intake of CO2. above 70%RH and the plants can not respire and keep cool or get rid of waste water.( when plants take up nutes and water the water has to be perspired and evaporated) also mildew can be a problem in veg in humidity above 70%RH

I ONLY SPRAY WITH CARBONATED WATER WHEN LIGHTS HAVE JUST COME ON. HUMIDITY RISES FOR 13MINS IN MY SETUP AND THEN DROPS BACK DOWN TO START % AGAIN. CANNA 0.4 EC SOLUTION JUST BEFORE LIGHT OUT. AS IN SECONDS...

Can we make this easier...? Which technique(s) did you add to your growroom strategy after your last successful crop? (nutrient fogger, CO2 sprays...chosing what dilution is best and not following instructions...new bug sprays...) What additives did you start or stop since your last successful crop?

since my last crop @22 ounces from this space I have added the humidifier, fogger(undercover and not allowed to evaporate into the plant air).

MY FEEDING SCHEDUAL..

if you have ever used canna they SUGGEST that optimal growth will occure in a nute solution of between 1.3 and 2EC. this was also supported by there feeding schedual calculator on there website. SENSISTAR is a sensitive breed and i chose from cannas OWN options to use a light feeding schedual. at 1.3EC FOR RO AND 1.6 FOR TAPWATER WITH A BACKGROUND EC OF 0.4..

additives were the same as before especialy the 1ml boost. it makes ythe plants so much more productive in terms of yeild and again i have seen this teasted side by side twice this time tho and both boost fed plants out yeilded the none boost plants and the smoke was same strength and taste.....as is co2 folar feeding

I have read your mythbuster info and have read nothing new. i realy dont think you full understand the subject of folar feeding and its uses. The man was very correct in all he says but cannabis plants and situations vary alot. as does the use of folar spraying

folar feeding is an established science. i have seen at least 4 side by side tests and there just no contest at all... a good root system is essential but plants can do so much more with folar feeding..

i realy dont know where you get all this INFORMATION from but i think you need to either prove me wrong and get copying and pasting or go back to school. you called me a liar in your last post and to be fair i have taken offence to this.

if you dont fully understand the subject in hand how can you pretend to be a master of it.

getting lemonade or fizzy pop mixed up with carbonated water( carbonic acid) i let slip. i wasnt even going to mention the humidity thing cos thats plain wrong.
but you dont know the difference between a root zone nutramist style fogger and a cool mist humidifier do you????

you say your on here alot. obviously shoveling this crap to peeps all day. and then reading other crap so that you can tell me about what you have read rather than what you have actualy experienced first hand....

im not doubting your ability to grow nice ganja. please think about what you are writing and write with the knolage you can back up what you say...

i realy dont want to fall out with anyone here as iv only been here a few days. please help and not pull apart..





Gee. It's nice to see an experienced gardener at work. But excuses will kill your ladies. Obviously there's something amiss, and I'm willing to bet it's more than one thing. Reading your troubleshooting form, I could easily spot a few potential issues (despite your protestations) that would be most gardeners starting point. But imagine how in-depth we could have gotten were you to have filled the form out to the best of your ability and with all the facts. I'm sure there's a lesson in here. Just not sure how to recognize it. Any ideas...?

Anyway, I'm in here often, and am quite familiar with a number of different growing methods and styles, and although I'm not a hydro guy, I can recognize when someone is attempting a technique or two that can be counter-productive in the growroom. Let alone all the leaf-stress you add continualy with the nutrient fogger, bug stuff, high humidity...on what appears to be on a daily basis. You mention humidity isn't an issue, but according to answer 'T' from the form, you are at 55% (ish) average, plus fogging and spraying. Yes...humidity and respritory stress is an issue.

Can we make this easier...? Which technique(s) did you add to your growroom strategy after your last successful crop? (nutrient fogger, CO2 sprays...chosing what dilution is best and not following instructions...new bug sprays...) What additives did you start or stop since your last successful crop?

Also, there's a link in my signature regarding plant myths. If you would be so kind as to at least read the link I placed below?
Foliar Feeding Myths (http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Foliar%20feeding.pdf)
Despite being an agricultural refrence, the basic plant biology is the same.

Or, wait till someone else (with more experience than I) chooses to chime-in. It might well be that you are right. After all...I'm just filling-in for the hydro guys, and it might just be a ph thing.

revised in red

HI THERE EVERY ONE THIS IS MY FIRST POST HERE SO HELLOW TO YOU.

NOW MY PROBLEM....

What is your experience level? (first timer growing with proper kit, 10years reasearch and outdoor growing exp.)

What type of hydro set-up are you running? im running a 20L 5 plant NFT WITH ADDED 90MLH FOGGER. 2X110L AIR STONES, 30L header tank.

Your Equipment:
A) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's) HPS DUEL SPECTRUM 600WATT, STANDARD BALAST.

B) Distance from tops? 24INCHESsince problem has started

C) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...) BAT WING.mine is not a batwing but close to, its exactly the same as a Super Nova Reflector

D) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 600WATTS DUEL SPECTRUM HPS 18/6 for veg

E) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? YES EXTRACTED/SUPPLIED BY A 280CMH FAN-360CMH CARBON FILTER-SILENCER. ALSO USE A TEMPRITURE ACTIVATED 280CMH FAN WITH FILTER AND SILENCE AS BEFORE.for cold air intake

F) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? YES BOTH @280CMH.

G) Size of reservoir? 20L

H) What medium if applicable. ROCKWOOL AND SPREADER MATT

Your nutrients and water:
I) If using rockwoll for clones or seedlings, did you rinse the cubes well, with properly ph'd water? YES AND STABLE @PH5.8

J) Source of water. (tap or filtered) What's it's ph? FIRST 3WEEKS ON TAP WATER PH 7.4 CORRECTED WITH PH DOWN PHOSPHORIC ACID TO 6.0 NOW ON RO WATER PH6.2acid corrected to ph5.5

K) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. CANNA AQUA VEG AND FLORA. 50ML A+B, 75ML CANNA ZYME, 20ML 6% SILICATE PHOSPHATE.reduced to a 1/4 untill this problem clears

L) What is the ec/ppm of your unadjusted tap (or filtered) water? 0.4 BUT NOT USING ANYMOREnow using RO=EC 0.0

M) What is the ec/ppm of your nutrient solution? NOW USING RO1.3 EC DOWN TO 0.9EC THEN TOP UP EVERDAY AT LIGHTS ON BACK TO 1.3EC BUT WHEN USING TAP WATER THE FIGURES WERE 1.6 DOWN TO 1.2

N) What is the temperature of your nutrient solution? (reservoir high and low temps) 20DEG LIGHTS OFF 22DEG LIGHTS ON. CHECKED EVERY DAY AT 10.00AM LIGHTS ON(LIGHT COME ON AT 6PM GO OFF AT 12.00PM) AND AT 6.00PM JUST AS THE LIGHTS COME ON

O) Does your ec/ppm show a rise or fall when you do your daily PPM check? YES FROM 1.3-0.9LEVELS USING RO WATER

P) Does the ph fluctuate? YES FROM PH5.5 TO PH6.0 BECAUSE OF THE HEADER TANK.

Q) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you
spray? (Just after lights come on, just before they go out...) YES WITH CARBONATED WATER AND A 0.4EC SOLUTION OF CANNA SINCE PROBLEM STARTEDHAVE ALSO GIVEN ONE DOSE OF EPSOME SALTS@1/2tsp per liter WITH 15PPM OF ZINC CITRATE

R) How often do you replace reservoir water/nutes? What does it look like before changes? (clear, foamy, green, brown...) AT THE MOMENT IM ADDING ABOUT 4L A DAY FROM THE HEADER TANK SO I CHANGE EVERY 5 DAYS.same as the lucas formular method 1

Your growroom:
S) What size of closet, room or hut? 4FOOT WIDE 3FOOT DEEP 6FOOT HIGH

T) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? LIGHTS ON 25.1DEG-51%R/H.... LIGHTS OFF 19.7DEG-63%R/H

U) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? APIDS... TREATED WITH PEST OFF1/2 strength, 10 LADY BUGS(STILL ALIVE) 250 APHIDIUS(STILL EMERGING). ADDING THESE BUGS IS THE STANDARD WAY OF KILLING APHIDS AND SPIDERMITE ORGANICAL. THE WEBSITE I GOT THE APHIDUS FROM RECOMENDED SPRAYING WITH PEST OFF PRIOR TO ADDING THE APHIDUS

V) Are the roots long and white, or brown and slimy? THE ROOTS ARE PURE WHITE, LONG, GROWTH BECAME EXPONENTIAL AFTER FIRST WEEK OF FOGGER BUT NOW HAVE LOST THERE MICRO HAIRS.. WILL ADD PICTURE

Your strain:
W) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) INDICA DOMINANT SENSISTAR HATES NITROGEN AND HIGH NUTE LEVELS.

X) From seeds or clones? MY CLONES FROM SEED

Y) Is this an autoflower strain? NO

ADDITIVES.
20ML 6%SILICATE PHOSPHATESTOPPED FOR TWO DAYS NOW BACK TO 1/4 STRENGH
5ML BAC2LIFESTOPPED
1ML CANNA BOOSTSTOPPED

[Rusty Trichome]

Good luck my friend. But in parting, I'd just like to say your assesments of my understanding are misguided, as is your understanding of foliar feeding, in my opinion. But then I get my opinions from professionals without a retail interest in the findings. You get yours, apparently, from decades of nutrient and fertilizer marketing.
I'm not the gardener denying any involvment in his plants problems, either.

But let me assure you...it's not you I was trying to help, it was your plants. But it's great you know exactly what the problems aren't. Narrows it down to operator error with every technique you dispell. :thumbsup:

[foggyman]

The humidity in the enviroment is the amount of water vapor present in the air. Most growers know that humidity in excess of 85% percent increases the probability of the appearance of bud mold. The humidity is also critical during germanation when the seedlings are extremely fragile. Humidty should be kept over 80% at this stage in the plants life to prevent the soil from drying too fast.

Experimentation has shown that a relative humidity of 65% to 80% increases growth rate. Below this level the plants develop extremely narrow and tissue paper thin leaves to try to prevent excess loss of water. Above 80% relative humidity the plant have trouble disposing of toxic chemicals through evaporation

Now you know the basics. Learn how to grow cannabis like a pro!!!


source. Indoor Cannabis Cultivation (http://www.weedfarmer.com/cannabis/indoorv1_guide.php)

source. Grow Guide | CANNA UK (http://www.canna-uk.com/growguide)
PUT THIS INFO IN
20L TANK
EC OF RO WATER 0.0
LIGHT FEEDING.

HUMIDITY

The humidity should be kept high (around 90%) unless over watering has occurred and the soil needs drying quickly. Cannabis doesn't like its roots to be wet all the time, so don't water every day unless the temperature is quite high. If proper ventilation is maintained, problems like fungus and algae should be minimal. Average watering solution usage: 10 days after transplant, 1 Quart (946 ml) 20 days after transplant, 1.5 Quarts (1419 ml) 30 days after transplant, 2 Quarts (1892 ml) During Flowering, 1.5 Quarts (1419 ml)

SOURCE. Advanced Cannabis Growing Guide (http://www.weedfarmer.com/cannabis/advanced_guide.php)


here you go mate..

sorry for my little rant earlier. i have alot on my mind at the moment.

[foggyman]

hahahah and i thought you would back up what you wrote hahahahaha

as i said my knolage is based on first hand experience.

i have seen folar feeding with nft out preform none folar fed nft. twice. by 25-27%increased yield.

alot of my mates grow fair size crops with me being the smallest. they have little contests and love experimenting just as much as me..

after this grow im changing to advanced nutrients. i have seen a side by side test with, 2 white widow, 2 ak47's,2 bigbang,2 northern lights,2 bigbud, all clones. each set from the same mother. one of each in advanced one in canna. the advanced came 37ounces from 600watt canna 27.. wow..

with my plants i started on tap water ec0.4 made to 1.1 for 1st week which was slightly higher than canna suggest with no burn. then i moved up to 1.5 then 1.6 then 1.7, 1.8, 1.9(1.5 with RO) it was only at 1.9 that the tips started to show slight nute burn. i then stepped the ec back 0.2. which is where i am now at 1.5 but i have also switched to RO water now and so the ec meter reads 1.3 ec.

this is the best way to find the ideal nute strength for your plants. especial when im getting 2inches outward growth and 1.5 inches in hight in 18hours...???

alot of our experience is gained from side by side tests. in the same grow space. only varying one factor between the two identical test plants.

i will admit when im mistaken but if you cant show me where im mistaken then.....

well its up to you. if you would like to help i would love to listen. but i wanted to get some basic facts right first and show that my info was correct and honest...

would kinda defeat the object if i went to the doc with a broken leg and complained of chest pains hmmmmm...

you never actual said what you thought was wrong with the plants by the way....

peace lucas...

[Rusty Trichome]

Why does conjuring the Lucas name always seem to make growers anal, or is it just that they feel superior to others? Whatever...it's just another technique. :jointsmile:

But yeah...you're right. Quite a few years of growing, years of troubleshooting for others. I know nothing.
Good luck. Hope your plants recover. :thumbsup:

[foggyman]

the name lucas means into the light...

thats why hahahaha

cheers then...

[cannaman666]

rusty you sound like a **** head

post after post i have read your ball

[Faddenator]

If you're "too advanced" of a grower to use these forums, then GTFO.

If you don't appreciate that people are taking time out of their days to help you, GTFO.

If you are here to call respected long-time members here names like a little kid, GTFO.

If you're not part of the solution then you're part of the problem. It's absolutely ridiculous that there is name-calling in a CANNABIS FORUM. Grow up.