NITROGEN DEFICIENCY ??

[volak]

Would everyone agree that these young plants are showing signs of N deficiency ?

They are about a month old from clone, only been in DWC for 4 days under 600w HPS, PH fine (5.8) room temp 27c, nute temp 20c, good air circulation.

They only started to yellow last night.

[volak]

i use general hydroponics flora series nutes.

15 ml grow
10 ml micro
5 ml bloom
per 10 litres of water.

Also use PYTHOFF as a precautionary measure.

[volak]

Anyone ? Anyone at all ???

[Greenthing]

They look nice if they were mine i would increase the strength of the nutes a little bit for the ones that are light green, carefull not to over do it though.:hippy:

[volak]

Actualy, you know what i think it was..

..the guy came around to fix my comp, so i flicked the switch on my growroom..thing is, i forgot to flick it back on again, so they were without light for over 24 hrs.
I know that in the past, if the lights have blown..undetected for a few days..the lack of photosynthesis turns them pale after a day or two.

I wouldnt have thought that 24 hours darkness would have affected them much, but the pics speak for themselves..and i hav'nt icreased the nute level yet..im going to though, coz they still look a bit anaemic to me.

[volak]

looking at those latest pics, now ive posted them..they look exactly the same. lol.

i must be wasted.

[volak]

OK...im propper panicking now..take a look at these pics.

I raised the nute level to..

30ml grow
20ml micro
10 ml bloom

PH has been kept between 5.5 and 6.2

As you can see, they are starting to get very yellow on the tips and side margins..and some are showing chlorosis in the inter veinal areas.

Looking like either Zinc, Iron or Magnesium deficiency.

How can this be when all the various nutrients are available and the PH is fine ? I have ruled out heat stress too as i have a coolshade lamp.

I have been using the PYTHOFF too.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

[syde00]

let me start out by saying i know nothing about hydro grows.

with that being said, IMHO, you are seeing the starting stages of a little nute burn, which would make sense since you just said you increased nute levels.

also... pic #3

is that 2 plants in the same bucket? if so, that is bad, and is going to cause you more problems soon.

[phatsesh101]

the first ones look kinda like burn nut the bottoms dont
i think rustys sig has form fill it out so as to limit miss information cause there are several posibilites at this point and if your serious about ur plants

[justanotherbozo]

i'm no expert bro but i agree with Greenthing, that first set of pics just looked
a bit hungry.

now it looks like nute burn as syde00 suggested.

unfortunately, i'm not experienced enough to give you a definitive answer.

so i'd suggest you fill out the troubleshooting form located in Greenthing's sig.

then, hopefully, Rusty or Stinky or Stitch or one of the other more experienced
growers will be able to more definitively answer your question.

[Greenthing]

You have doubled up with Grow, Micro,and bloom it seems you may have over nuted, thats just my opinion, fill in the form like justanotherbozo said,
and maybe back of the nutes.
Do you have a EC meter to check the strength of you nutes?:stoned::hippy:

[Italiano715]

OK...im propper panicking now..take a look at these pics.

I raised the nute level to..

30ml grow
20ml micro
10 ml bloom

PH has been kept between 5.5 and 6.2

As you can see, they are starting to get very yellow on the tips and side margins..and some are showing chlorosis in the inter veinal areas.

Looking like either Zinc, Iron or Magnesium deficiency.

How can this be when all the various nutrients are available and the PH is fine ? I have ruled out heat stress too as i have a coolshade lamp.

I have been using the PYTHOFF too.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Magnesium Deficiency for sure.......

Original Post my MynameStitch

Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

That above is a way to fix it from a thread I was reading on another forum and happened to see this one too.

[volak]

ok, thanks for everyones input.
Its not nute burn,..as i ommited to say, that when i increased the nute levels, i did it only on 2 of the 4 pots, but the 2 diferent strengths of nutes, showed the same problem.
Also, on one of the pics you can see a little nute burn on the tips...and it looks quite diferent from the yellowing, the nute burn is a more orangy/crispy browny color.

If i can refer everyone to this..Marijuana Plant Abuse (http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html)

..near the bottom, potassium/zinc/(mobile elements) or Sulphur(imobile element) What is this mobile/imobile elements thing ?

Im pretty sure its a deficiency of one, or a combination, of these elements..but why there is a deficiency when im using a 3 part food grade nute, is beyond me.

I feel that adding anything extra to the mix just shouldnt be necessary..is it ?

[volak]

ok, ive looked at the form..i think i understand it, here goes.

Indoor

Hydro (dwc)

Hydroton clay pebbles

Tap water (ph7)

Plant age about 1 month.

nutes, flora series 3 part

PPM, unknown.

600w hps, 1 metre

Air temp, 30c day, 15c night.

Res temp, 22c

Humidity, unknown.

Lighting 18/6

Ventilation, fan in..fan out.

Media pre soaked in ph6 water

[Greenthing]

Air temp, 30c day, 15c night
I prefer the day temps at 26c i think 30c seems a bit high to me.:hippy:
I read somewere that there should only be a 10 degree change from day and night temps.:stoned:

[volak]

4 degrees aint gonna make much difference..

i know what the problem is now anyway, the roots have turned to shit...AGAIN.
Fuck this DWC malarky, its bollocks...im going back to pots and coco.

[Greenthing]

How do you water, if you have a res are you changing and cleaning the res regular and filling up with fresh nutes.

[metalhead419]

One thing i would keep in mind, lots of people, me included have enjoyed a lot of success using DWC. There is nothing wrong with that particular system. I have never used GH 3part, but i understand a lot of people have used it successfully. The problem seems to me to be operator error. If you want to do things the right way, i would recommend getting your hands on a EC/TDS meter, and also whatever it is you use to measure humidity. Humidity is often overlooked, and without a meter your really just guessing. Do the plants get watered from the top at all?

[syde00]

One thing i would keep in mind, lots of people, me included have enjoyed a lot of success using DWC. There is nothing wrong with that particular system. I have never used GH 3part, but i understand a lot of people have used it successfully. The problem seems to me to be operator error. If you want to do things the right way, i would recommend getting your hands on a EC/TDS meter, and also whatever it is you use to measure humidity. Humidity is often overlooked, and without a meter your really just guessing. Do the plants get watered from the top at all?

i agree with this... doing any type of hydro without a EC/TDS meter doesn;t seem like a good idea to me.

humidity is pretty easy to measure... most $5 digital thermometers will also give you relative humidity.

I think if your roots are rotting it probably means *something* isn;t being done right...

[Holden4]

I have a similar problem, cant figure out what it is either, i was thinking N too at first, but not sure.

Pics here @
ImageShack® - Gallery (http://img198.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=sany0166.jpg)

[dab7wr2]

the first solution of nutes you have (10ml micro, 15ml gro, 5 bloom) gives an EC of 2.4, the second will give you around 4.2 EC. now most recommend a MAX EC of 2.3, and that is upon finishing. so as you can see you have way too many nutes in your solution. as for DWC, you can easily get away with 50% of GH's nute schedule. check out some of the formulations for GH and you will find the GRO is not even needed. Lucas formula calls for 1 part micro to 2 parts bloom. in veg thats 5ml micro and 10 ml bloom, EC 1.2. then in bllom go up to 8ml micro and 16ml bloom. may have a slight N dif in veg when not adding grow so I will mix in 2-3ml per gal in veg of the GH Gro. I run about a EC 1.0-1.3 in veg and then bump that up to EC 1.6-2.3 in bloom.

[volak]

Now got rid of all my DWC hydro kit..moved back to a simpler method of pots and coco.
These are a mix of superskunk and cheese.

2 weeks into flowering, the foto speaks for itself.

I believe the simpler the setup, the easier the grow.

I dont have to mess about measuring EC, dont have to worry about root temperature, hell i dont even ph the water...just straight from the tap..add coco A and B..and bingo.

If you are a serious hobbyist, and want to experiment with fancy hydro kits, well thats just fine, me..i want a quick turnover of healthy bud..with minimal effort or messing around 'tweaking' things.

Organic gets my vote everytime now.