Rezinator
05-02-2009, 10:59 AM
Got 8 bagseed plants at day 90 under Flos. Only now are they showing nobules at petiole crotches. . If 90 days sounds late for sexing to show - I went with 24/0 during first 8 weeks. And switched over to 18/6 only about 3 weeks ago.
Meanwhile - during research on wtfluff might be taking so long - I read StickyAttic??s great piece on transplanting. Sure enough I saw how fast the plants wanted to another transplanting through the stupid clear OJ containers I put them in. But I figured hey, should see pistils any day after day 70 - at which point I transplant mother into fresh 5gal - and then phase into flowering.
Sticky??s advice about transplanting was/is nothing short of pure gold.
I get the feeling Cannibis just loves the hell out of good transplanting. Next time I will plan to at least one more intermediary upsizing transplant for the roots.
.....................................
So - root rought risk/odds issue, aside for a moment - how important do you guys think it is to just keep plants calm during the sexing phase.
Hoping some of you guys might help with this decision. Because tho I had read some info about which side of neutral pH 7 encourages preponderance of females, I couldn??t find info again to confirm which so I spent like 8 weeks zeroing pH at 7. Last few weeks I targeted 6.6pH.
After reading Sticky??s piece I got some of those gallon grow bags and want to do a transplant now. But...shrug.
Again. This question is posted just as sex nobulettes are beginning to show (I should really take pics of how indeterminate these nubs looked yesterday under a 30x loupe. But, relative noob that I am (2nd grow here), I think I outta not stress the plants out with a photoshoot. Not right now anyway. So afraid I am already on track for choosing between Herms or root rought. Or even better, Herms WITH root rought.
Seems to me the plants would prefer to aim next couple of days energy at the hormonal thing. Rather than recover from a much, nay, !MUCHMUCH!, overdue transplanting.
.........................................
Now the other thing is this. Can you bump in a few nights of full 12/12 to induce sexing and then revert to a few more weeks of 18/6 vegging, then officially into full flowering. I??m still fuzzy on that call.
[Notes: Re: Grow Method Specific (sorry)
My stealth flowering method of choice is a one plant, well ventilated (w/ new 48? T5s x 6Bulb, HEPA intake (challenge is negative air pressure, I hope resolved by filter find online) plus OdorSok, dragged by Elicent 6?) - horizontal 60cf cabinet grow. (Thanks out to rhizome for calculations. Helped emensely, sir.) Only 28? deep.
Height for this new cab will go about 47 inches. However overall cab width will be about 70?, to include smallish compartment for DIY cloner with fogging. So call it 54? wide mock SCROG, trelissed at 14? off cab floor, incorporating an EXTERNAL 5gal down underneath, in a wider tupperware drainpan, supported by 2x4 pieces, on bare concrete floor with a drain hole for measuring and purging full H2O flushings.]
Oh. One more thing. Newish concrete basement, at 44.91 parallel, means dry. And night temps were dropping to 63F. Annd - just for everyone??s amusement - without the cabinet online I was forced to open air grow (vertically) in same dry coldish basement. So, in lieu of a half tank of heating oil, I had a cheap small electric space heater 30"s away, opposed by a small other-side agitation fan. I gather the cheap circuitry of the variable adjustment got confused. The heater had a melt down one night. Complete with a really 85F+ blow. Plants lower 7 nodes or so all got nuked off. Currently working on plans for an intake lung curtain to resolve humidity, temp and any negative pressure issues during cabinet flowering. Tanks, ppl.
Just need to know if I should transplant or wait till after Sexing runs it's course. Even then I think I will do one more intermediary transplant of the - fingers crossed - mother plant. Out.
Meanwhile - during research on wtfluff might be taking so long - I read StickyAttic??s great piece on transplanting. Sure enough I saw how fast the plants wanted to another transplanting through the stupid clear OJ containers I put them in. But I figured hey, should see pistils any day after day 70 - at which point I transplant mother into fresh 5gal - and then phase into flowering.
Sticky??s advice about transplanting was/is nothing short of pure gold.
I get the feeling Cannibis just loves the hell out of good transplanting. Next time I will plan to at least one more intermediary upsizing transplant for the roots.
.....................................
So - root rought risk/odds issue, aside for a moment - how important do you guys think it is to just keep plants calm during the sexing phase.
Hoping some of you guys might help with this decision. Because tho I had read some info about which side of neutral pH 7 encourages preponderance of females, I couldn??t find info again to confirm which so I spent like 8 weeks zeroing pH at 7. Last few weeks I targeted 6.6pH.
After reading Sticky??s piece I got some of those gallon grow bags and want to do a transplant now. But...shrug.
Again. This question is posted just as sex nobulettes are beginning to show (I should really take pics of how indeterminate these nubs looked yesterday under a 30x loupe. But, relative noob that I am (2nd grow here), I think I outta not stress the plants out with a photoshoot. Not right now anyway. So afraid I am already on track for choosing between Herms or root rought. Or even better, Herms WITH root rought.
Seems to me the plants would prefer to aim next couple of days energy at the hormonal thing. Rather than recover from a much, nay, !MUCHMUCH!, overdue transplanting.
.........................................
Now the other thing is this. Can you bump in a few nights of full 12/12 to induce sexing and then revert to a few more weeks of 18/6 vegging, then officially into full flowering. I??m still fuzzy on that call.
[Notes: Re: Grow Method Specific (sorry)
My stealth flowering method of choice is a one plant, well ventilated (w/ new 48? T5s x 6Bulb, HEPA intake (challenge is negative air pressure, I hope resolved by filter find online) plus OdorSok, dragged by Elicent 6?) - horizontal 60cf cabinet grow. (Thanks out to rhizome for calculations. Helped emensely, sir.) Only 28? deep.
Height for this new cab will go about 47 inches. However overall cab width will be about 70?, to include smallish compartment for DIY cloner with fogging. So call it 54? wide mock SCROG, trelissed at 14? off cab floor, incorporating an EXTERNAL 5gal down underneath, in a wider tupperware drainpan, supported by 2x4 pieces, on bare concrete floor with a drain hole for measuring and purging full H2O flushings.]
Oh. One more thing. Newish concrete basement, at 44.91 parallel, means dry. And night temps were dropping to 63F. Annd - just for everyone??s amusement - without the cabinet online I was forced to open air grow (vertically) in same dry coldish basement. So, in lieu of a half tank of heating oil, I had a cheap small electric space heater 30"s away, opposed by a small other-side agitation fan. I gather the cheap circuitry of the variable adjustment got confused. The heater had a melt down one night. Complete with a really 85F+ blow. Plants lower 7 nodes or so all got nuked off. Currently working on plans for an intake lung curtain to resolve humidity, temp and any negative pressure issues during cabinet flowering. Tanks, ppl.
Just need to know if I should transplant or wait till after Sexing runs it's course. Even then I think I will do one more intermediary transplant of the - fingers crossed - mother plant. Out.