Going CO2 need some help

[Cyclonite]

So heres the deal....going CO2 sealed 4X4X8 cab cool tube and looking at A/c units....I think portable dual hose would be best but I believe they still leak CO2 out...what the best way to set this up for max CO2 efficiency...I hate the idea of loosing co2 everything that damn a/c pops on.

[VapedG13]

remember you only need to apply the Co2 when the lights are on....not effective in the dark..its a waste

You dont need the air conditioner...Co2 allows for total room enclosure or a sealed tent...when I used co2 my room would see 100*F with no problems to the plant....I think I was running 3000-3500 ppm and using a automatic dispensing meter

[Cyclonite]

I believe 100 is too high even with co2...my target temp is 85 and my lamp would heat that room up too much. your co2 ppms are too high also, i wouldnt go above 2500 max 1500 ideal.

[Cyclonite]

bump....please advise stinky perhaps will have the answer:thumbsup:

[Ktrain]

ur ppms and temp are WAY off.........they can stand up to 95f and you need to match the co2 to the ppm in the feeding........3500 is WAY OFF:jointsmile:

[Cyclonite]

But....what about my situation

[oldmac]

So heres the deal....going CO2 sealed 4X4X8 cab cool tube and looking at A/c units....I think portable dual hose would be best but I believe they still leak CO2 out...what the best way to set this up for max CO2 efficiency...I hate the idea of loosing co2 everything that damn a/c pops on.

Hey Cyclonite,

I'm a little unclear why you are using an AC inside the cab. If your running a cooltube for your light (what size?) then the cab should only rise abt 10 or so degrees above ambient temps, even with 1000w.

Next, need to know what your source of CO2 is. If it's a tank you can use a sequence timer to shut off gas while AC runs, but it will still pull the CO2 out of the cab that's already there.

Currently in a "quick, dirty and cheap" temporary grow I'm doing with a partner, I'm using a very oldtime method for CO2.... 1/2 gal jugs 1/2 filled with warm water, with sugar and yeast. We have about 6 currently sitting on the grow table (4'x8') with our plants. Cost less the $2.50 (for all six) and lasts about 2 weeks.

[Cyclonite]

I only used the cool tube with the end open and a passive intake....I havent tried hooking up the open end yet with the passive intake to see what temps are....if its only 10 degrees with a cool tube that would be great...what about 2 600s....I have a superfan if need be would that make them much more effective its like 1000cfm

[oldmac]

I only used the cool tube with the end open and a passive intake....I havent tried hooking up the open end yet with the passive intake to see what temps are....if its only 10 degrees with a cool tube that would be great...what about 2 600s....I have a superfan if need be would that make them much more effective its like 1000cfm

Cyclonite,

First, if you want to use CO2, you need to get everything else squared away.

You should cool your lights properly; 6" air inlet to 6" ducting to your cool tubes more 6" ducting to your fan (265 cfm is fine for 1000w or 2- 600w) the duct to a 6" outlet. All of this should be air tight so it does not pull air from the grow area. Your exhaust fan should be separate and a passive air inlet is fine, just use an inlet damper (round, 4" is common size used for dryer vents) set so that air can flow in when exhaust fan is on and closes when not on. Helps keep CO2 inplace.

My 10 degree rise over ambient may be a little optimistic. If the cab is located in a living area I would assume an outside the cab temp of about 72degrees F. I would expect a cab of your size with 1000 to 1200watts to rise 15-20 degrees, so were looking at 87-92. Starting to get a little high but very workable with CO2.
(my partner and I are cooling 2- 1000w lights, with 400+ cfm fan, but the ambient air outside the grow room is currently 45 dgrees, the duct work is so cold there is a condensation problem on the duct work).

BTW while a super fan of 1000cfm will work it is no better then a proper sized one, you can only cool the lights so far, about ambient temp. The heat that builds up in the cab from the light is the radiant or reflected energy of the light.

On an other thread (damn I wish I knew how to link it, I suck at this computer shit) I answered dodo's question about CO2 and I rattled on about the various methods (and safety) of CO2, try to check it out.

[Cyclonite]

hmm well im trying to get around having an exhaust and intake for the cab....I was hoping I could use a/c to keep temps and humidity in check Im going to pick up a free used window a/c and see if I can convert it into a true sealed split system via cardboard and spray foam insulation since the only connection shared by both sides is the refrigerant line.

I keep picturing if I were to go the exhaust route that the fans wouldnt stay off for more than 5min effectively wasting huge amounts of co2.

[oldmac]

hmm well im trying to get around having an exhaust and intake for the cab....I was hoping I could use a/c to keep temps and humidity in check Im going to pick up a free used window a/c and see if I can convert it into a true sealed split system via cardboard and spray foam insulation since the only connection shared by both sides is the refrigerant line.

I keep picturing if I were to go the exhaust route that the fans wouldnt stay off for more than 5min effectively wasting huge amounts of co2.

Well most ACs can be setup to run in a "recirculate" mode that doesn't exchange air to the outside. Try to set it up that way, and just see if it accomplishes what you want.

Good luck with it.