View Full Version : slight yellow leaves any sugestions??
allkillanofilla
09-26-2008, 10:52 PM
:cool: ok these are in week three of veg and there is a little yellowing of the leaves on the lower nodes any ideas???? i had a ph flux about a week ago for a day or two while i was out of town not to bad tho ....... i am using all holland secret nutes bada bang 5-0-2 bada bing 2-1-7 bada bloom 0-6-4 with liquid karma and some sweet citrus ...... any input would be great .... and stinkyattic i just want to say thanks for spending alot of time helping others it shows of good character:jointsmile::jointsmile::jointsmile:
wayward
09-27-2008, 04:08 AM
hey allkillanofilla,
I'm going to guess that since the leaves are a nice green color but you have some tip burn, that you have overferted them. Do you know what the ppm is, which is something you need to watch closely when growing in hydro.
there's a way to grow where you won't experience this kind of problem. there's a way you can prevent this kind of thing from happening and you'll take all the guesswork out of growing. the method is this - don't try to do anything special. just get some Foxfarm Fruit and Flower powdered fert at your grow store and put two cups of it in a five gallon container and mix well, then put your plants in that and just water them when their thirsty. That will solve 99% percent of your feeding issues. You won't have to worry about salt build up. People make too much out of growing. It's just a plant. Don't do anything special and you'll have better grows.
Manator
09-27-2008, 04:14 AM
how the hell are they growing in teh rock wool, i tried that crap and all m roots dry rotted. and i cant under stand a bit of that. so i stopped using it.
i have seen the rock wool used a million times so maybe it was just me. how does it work for you man?? and how do u keep them from dieing?
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edub325
09-27-2008, 04:16 AM
nothing special well durn maybe that's my prob too?
wayward
09-27-2008, 04:27 AM
people make growing this plant much harder than it is. just grow it like you would any other plant. You want to use Foxfarm Farm's Fruit and Flower powder fert cuz it's full of bacteria. It is actually the bacteria that break down the fertilizer to molecules plants can take up. Mix it with Foxfarm soil or something similar and it should be all you need as it has much of the micronutes plants need. After that, just give them good water and time to grow. You'll be shocked at how easy it is. It seems like people always want to tweek their plants to make them better. All that does it make things worse.
allkillanofilla
09-28-2008, 12:16 AM
111
allkillanofilla
09-28-2008, 12:18 AM
111
stinkyattic
09-29-2008, 02:11 PM
Wayward, your advice makes no sense in this situation, as the OP is OBVIOUSLY running a fully-hydroponic system, and it also sounds a bit familiar... ???
Killa, np on the help, that's what I'm here for lol.
What pH are you running, and can you get a good check on what it is coming off the slab? Sometimes you will see pH RISE in RW and go out of range. But they look pretty good. IF you are concerned abotu that tip burn, definitely do a complete res change every 2-3 weeks and keep your pH in the range of about 5.8-6.2, and you CAN let it swing up and down within that range- many successful dro-ers do it that way.
What's your water source, pH, and EC numbers out of the tap and also in the res? Are you running by numbers or a set volume based on the mix on the fert package? Sometimes that gives a stronger solution than the plants really want, depending on how 'hungry' that particular strain is.
allkillanofilla
09-30-2008, 08:28 PM
I am using tap water with a reverse osmosis filter . PH is 5.5 -6.0 never above 6 unless i let it slip for a couple of days. I use a strick nute program from holland secret here is a link for the feeding chart i am using. Also i use liquid karma and sweet citrus from botanicare. One more thing my ppm is at 1246 currently and i am in week three of the nutes
American Beauty Garden Center: Hydroponics, Organics, Advanced Nutrients and Eco-Friendly Supply Store CHARLOTTE NC (http://www.abgardencenter.com/ABGC_Holland_Secret_feed.html)
:rastabanna::rastabanna:
stinkyattic
09-30-2008, 08:33 PM
Okay next questions!
-Is that the pH of the reservoir, the runoff off your slab (this is MOST IMPORTANT!!!), or the RO right outta the machine (This is MEANINGLESS until you add your CalMAg and nutes).
-Are you running CalMag? You have to run it with RO water no matter what your system. Add it up to about 200-300 ppm before adding your nutes, THEN check pH, THEN adjust to 5.8-6.0.
-How often do you change out the res? Do you do a complete change or partial? If partial, what is the EC after refilling the water but before adding your nutes?
-Are you running by volume or by the EC numbers (mL per gallon or ppm overall)?
I really suspect that your #1 problem is a Calcium deficiency that is SO EASY to fix just by slapping some CalMag in there on your next res change.
allkillanofilla
09-30-2008, 08:52 PM
Its pH of the reservoir the slab is slightly higher ...... I will look into calmag asap. I fully change the water every week and i use ml to gal to get the nutes right and always ph balance after :thumbsup:
stinkyattic
09-30-2008, 08:57 PM
COOL.
Yup, get your CalMag running and that will turn around fast. I see no other problems with your system. Don't let your slab get much over 6.2. You're fine, and weekly res changes, while overkill IMVHO, aren't a bad thing at all!
allkillanofilla
09-30-2008, 08:58 PM
Also what do you think of the nute schedule I am using??:420thought::420thought:
stinkyattic
09-30-2008, 09:03 PM
I'm not familiar with that one, but judge your nute schedule by the health of your garden! You rplants look good; you will want to BACK OFF just a hair on your strength until you are certain they can take the slight increase in overall ppms that the CalMag will give them.
Personally, I run by the EC numbers more than 'x mL of this and y mL of that', just making sure that the RATIOS of A to B (for a 2-part system) are consistent, and watch the plants for signs of burn or hunger. I start new clones aroun EC 0.8- 1.0 and work up over the course of the first 2 weeks of flower to the range of EC 1.6-1.8, then change the res after ~week 3 of flower, then go up to EC 1.4-1.6 with my BASE ferts and then add a bloom blaster like PK13/14 or GroTek Heavy Bloom up to about 1.8.
Go with what works for you. That system is working. Don't fret. :jointsmile:
allkillanofilla
09-30-2008, 09:03 PM
One other question off topic. Do you think i can kick over the lights to 12/12 soon. Its been 36 days since the seeds came up not sure on the sex of the plants yet. I need to know asap i bought a magnifying glass but im not sure how to tell before flowering if their is a way.:pimp:
i will post a few pics of today
stinkyattic
09-30-2008, 09:06 PM
Go ahead and flip 'em because they are still going to stretch a lot! You'll have to look for pre-flowers; if they aren't fully sexually mature yet you may not see them and will have to wait a little longer.
You gotta get yourself a dirt mother going, man!!! SO much easier to grow from clones in hydro... OMG you will be so happy...
allkillanofilla
09-30-2008, 09:10 PM
:thumbsup:
just took these
stinkyattic
09-30-2008, 09:14 PM
Yeah dude, your fert strength may be a TINY bit hot but you are flipping soon to flower and it's like, whatever; they'll be on a new schedule anyway with bloom ferts and then you start over haha!
Flip now or that room is going to be Jungle Stylee. I'd get a small circulating fan in that back corner ASAP before you get stagnant air issues.
allkillanofilla
09-30-2008, 09:17 PM
I already took clones from each mother and labeled them to see witch plant i liked best to keep her for cloning purposes...
allkillanofilla
09-30-2008, 11:00 PM
thank you for all your help:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
stinkyattic
10-01-2008, 01:24 PM
Np and I'm glad you have your future planned out right.
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