Germinating Mold on Soil? Pix

[ZachnJen]

I started these two days ago, letting them sit in water until the sprouting root became a good length for plating. Casing still on, we planted. I did some experimenting with this batch. I planted them and instead of giving them water, I gave them a 1/2 worm poop 1/2 water. I read that you can give itty bitty amounts of nutes to seedlings to promote better growth. and the NPK is .03-.002-.02 broken down into half is .015-.001-.01 That seems like an itty bitty amount right? And to clarify, the mold is on the soil. I tried to look at the sprouting and they seem untouched.

I thought that would be pretty good, well I sprayed and then saran wrapped and rubber banded the saran wrap over the top of the pot. This is how I did my last batch and worked REALLY well(over night one plant breeched and was almost touching the plastic). I just make sure to take the saran wrap off as soon as I saw sprouting. Well a couple of breeched, a couple have not, and I just went into check on them and saw this white hairy stuff. It is not very thick so I am hoping I caught this soon enough not to ruin my new batch. I pulled the saran wrap off of all of them regardless of sprouting or not, hoping to make this stuff go away.

what should I do?
transplant?
Do you think it will travel and continue to grow?
Was it the worm poop that caused this?

WILL THE SEEDLINGS BE OK???

Is there anything I can do to get rid of it? I was thinking of leaving the seedling in there and getting the soil with any mold out and replacing so I will not disturb the seedling. Anyone seen this?

I need help cause these came from a nice batch!! :)

Thanks!

ADDED: First post FTW!

Also added: I think this might be in the wrong place, I just saw the other forum for mold, pest, etc.

[ZachnJen]

Is what I posted this?

Grey Mold/Fungus (Botrytis) - Botrytis blight or gray mold is a fungus disease which infects a wide array of herbaceous annual and perennial plants. There are several species of the fungus Botrytis which can cause blights; the most common is Botrytis cinerea. Botrytis infections are favored by cool (60 degrees Fahrenheit or 15 degrees Celsius), rainy spring and summer weather. Gray mold can be particularly damaging when rainy, drizzly weather continues over several days. Look for masses of silver-gray spores on infected plant parts that are growing in humid areas. Tiny, black, shiny specks might also be seen embedded in diseased plant tissue. These are sclerotia of Botrytis: they allow the fungus to survive the winter. Botrytis blight can affect leaves, stems, crowns, flowers, flower buds, seeds, seedlings, bulbs, and just about any other part of a plant with the exception of the roots.

Solution - The best way to manage this disease is by inspection and sanitation. Remove infected flowers, leaves, or the entire plant if it's infected at the base, and take it away from your grow area before dispose if it. It is best not to do any sanitation when plants are wet since this could spread fungal spores during conditions which favor infection. Likewise avoid overhead watering, or misting plants especially if you have had trouble in the past. To promote rapid drying of plants space them to allow good air circulation. Sanitation alone is not sufficient to control this fungus. The fungus can produce 60,000 or more spores on a piece of plant tissue the size of your small finger nail. Even one spore can infect a plant and cause disease. So, avoid injuring plants in any way. Do not leave large stubs of stems when taking cuttings. Ventilate your grow space to prevent high humidity conditions. Even lowering the humidity slightly can have a significant effect on Botrytis. Outdoor planting should be planned to provide good air circulation patterns. This is the most important means of stopping this fungus. Added protection is available for many crops by applying a fungicide or combination of fungicides. However, Botrytis can develop resistance to certain chemicals. An ozone treatment is also an option, ozone is excellent for decimating spore counts in the grow room and a decent UV tube unit placed high in the room with a fan blowing through it can reduce dramatically the risk of botrytis.

[stinkyattic]

No nutes, nothing, not worm poop, nada.
Start seedlings in small cups of light, fine, unfertilized soil and don't mess with them until they have 5 nodes.
There's a link in my sig that has a whole section on germination and seedling health. The best you can do now is just cross your fingers and wait, and read. You can try a light mist with serenade on the soil surface, but adding any type of fertilizer can really be hard on newly-popped seedlings.
Also, saran wrap is going to cause more problems than it will solve.
Terra Cotta pots are hard to transplant out of when the time comes and it is easy to damage roots in the process, because they grow right onto the surface of the pot. Use plastic.
I'll move it to problems.

[ZachnJen]

No nutes, nothing, not worm poop, nada.
Start seedlings in small cups of light, fine, unfertilized soil and don't mess with them until they have 5 nodes.
There's a link in my sig that has a whole section on germination and seedling health. The best you can do now is just cross your fingers and wait, and read. You can try a light mist with serenade on the soil surface, but adding any type of fertilizer can really be hard on newly-popped seedlings.
Also, saran wrap is going to cause more problems than it will solve.
Terra Cotta pots are hard to transplant out of when the time comes and it is easy to damage roots in the process, because they grow right onto the surface of the pot. Use plastic.
I'll move it to problems.

*Fingers Crossed*

Thanks, one other question, I am mixing a teaspoon of blood meal 12-0-0 to the soil to promote root growth is that ok?

And these are plastic pots, that are just colored the color of terra cotta. The terra cotta planters were heavier and these were much cheaper :)


You can try a light mist with serenade on the soil surface, but adding any type of fertilizer can really be hard on newly-popped seedlings.

serenade? going to google it.

Thanks for the move.

[stinkyattic]

No fertilizer of ANY SORT.
Furthermore, Nitrogen promotes FOLIAGE growth, while Phosphorous would be what you are after. That comes organically from bone meal or bat crap. But that is for much later, when your plant is ready for a transplant.

If I may give you some advice as a new grower:
You are seriously over-thinking this. The little sprout can take care of itself for a while, given LIGHT, VENTILATION, and WATER. The seed leaves are like fat in animals- stored nutrition which may be used later, and they need nothing else for the first 2 weeks of life. In fact, they don't want anything else, because they are very tender and delicate and can be killed with fertilizer. In fact, some types of herbicides are just super-fertilizers, that scorch the plants to death! Don't start with organic soil amendments. You have to learn the plant first. I am serious about recommending SIMPLE soil for noobies, with more perlite than you think you need, because you WILL make mistakes at some point and have to flush.

I'd read the link in my sig start to finish and then get going on some new beans in case this doesn't work out.