View Full Version : First grow - Help me grow my baby, it's drooping!!
TheWhiteRider
09-09-2008, 02:56 AM
Hey everyone, first grow and having some droopy leaves problems. Please help me cure my baby!! It's my only one!!
indoor or outdoor-Indoor
soil, soilless, coco, aero, or hydroponic-Soil
Soil type/brand-Miracle Grow Moisture Control
SCL-Anything you have added to the soil-Sprinkled some Perlite (the white stuff right?) in the top part of the soil because I thought it might help with overwatering (which I thought was the problem).
Soil or slab runoff pH-6.3-6.4
Water sourceVaries. I started with mineral drinking water (I know....) , then bought some distilled water but read it's acidic. So ended up using half mineral water and half tap water
Source water pH-~6.6
Age of plant-Planted two weeks ago and one day (sprouted in about 2 days).
Type of fertilizer-None as of yet
Lighting source and distance from plant-(3) 20W 6500K CFL's kept ~4-5 in. mostly, but sometimes closer sometimes further away
Air temperature-Started seedling outdoors at ~95 F, after 1 week moved it inside where my A/C runs at ~75. So with the heat of lamps I would say plant sees ~80 F
Air % Relative humidity-Pretty dry weather here, I'd say about 30% RH
Lighting schedule-Started seedling outdoors which was 12/12 for a week, then moved inside at 12/12 for a day, then slowly increased light period to 13/11, then next day to 14/10, then next day to 16/8 and using this eversince
Type of ventilation your room has-Plant is being grown in the room where I sleep where there is a ceiling fan at full blast and A/C vent. I'd say plant gets decent ventilation
I ran a dip test and I came up with these numbers:
(soil runoff from ~6.6 pH water)
Alkanility - 40 KH ppm (before runoff 20)
Hardness 300
Nitrite 0.1-0.2 NO2- ppm mg/L
Nitrate 10 ppm NO3- ppm mg/L
Some background. First round leaves, one of them came out yellow and half dead (I am thinking it's because of MG). But the first set of serrated leaves came out great. Then the next node leaves started coming out a bit more yellow then the first ones but not that yellow. Right before I moved it inside, the same leaves started drooping, then the first node leaves followed (not as bad as the second one though). Now the two next sets of nodes are coming out (symetrically and simultaneously) and are looking a bit yellow also. I watered with a sprayer about twice a day (never actually giving the soil runoff because of the sprayer). So I thought it was overwatering, so I stopped putting water for 1 1/2 day (i usually let the top of the soil dry out in between watering and sink my finger into the soil to see if it needs watering below the surface), but today I came back from work and it still looked droopy. So I flushed it with the same water and went to buy a test kit to give my official report. This was the first time I actually let the water runoff through the bottom holes since I did not use sprayer.
I went today and bought some Superthrive since I heard it can revitilize your plants a bit and make them stronger. I have not applied any yet, so it'd be nice if someone could tell me how much to use for such a young plant.
You can see pictures below. Soil looks really wet because I just flushed.
I am so sorry for the long post, but I'd thought you guys would like a lot of detail. Stinky, please help!!!!!
TheWhiteRider
09-09-2008, 03:05 AM
If anyone does suggest any additives or nutes or anything to add, please bre really specific (brand, where to get, etc.). I live in a small town so my choices may be limited. Also, right now I'm VERY poor.
Thanks in advance for any help and sorry if I am annoying you wity my ridiculous long post. I'm a noob at this... :(
veggii
09-09-2008, 03:17 AM
you have to be very careful seedlings overwater easily, you could list the available stores in area but a cheap "grow" fert Alaska fish emulsion
Weedhound
09-09-2008, 03:25 AM
My first thought would be with veggi....overwater or perhaps check your soil runoff and make sure its coming out the same way as going in.......whooops....you already did, good for you!!
My vote is for overwater and keep your lights about 6 inches because she's obviously a bit stressed.
Raise tropical fish or something do you? You probably talk Rusy Trichomes language.
Weedhound
09-09-2008, 03:32 AM
Stop using a water spray as it is probably just leaching the leaves out further with that......you can add ST at ONE DROP a gallon for seedlings......warning....will lower ph a bit so check. Water small amounts.....not necessarrily to runoff, just get the medium damp/wet and not have runoff each time...... lots of runoff means you could be flushing the good stuff straight though as I found it from personal experience . Stinky may suggest some sort of foliar spray with nutes but I wouldn't really know how to give instructions for that or even if it's needed because I'm just not knowledgable in enough in soil to say.
If you can spare the $8-10 ish dollar to buy a nice big bag of Happy Frog soil for your plant and it will reward both you and the plant with good soil ph and some good nutes perfect for seedlings along with great growing for quite a while and make your life a lot easier at the same time. A quality soil (MAKE SURE ITS THE RIGHT KIND FOR THE JOB! YOU WANT!) will save you both dollars for extras and give you MANY less headaches with playing around with a lousy soil like Miracle Grow and pay for it self MANY TIMES OVER per grow. ;) Worth every penny.
veggii
09-09-2008, 03:38 AM
If you can spare the $8-10 ish dollar to buy a nice big bag of Happy Frog soil for your plant and it will reward both you and the plant with good soil ph and great growing for quite a while and make your life a lot easier at the same time. A quality soil (MAKE SURE ITS THE RIGHT KIND FOR THE JOB! YOU WANT!) will save you both dollars for extras and give you MANY less headaches with playing around with a lousy soil like Miracle Grow and pay for it self MANY TIMES OVER per grow. ;) Worth every penny.
LoL everytime I hear someone cry GNATS!!! I know their using MG soil !
I have heard that the Happy Frog Soil Conditioner is Excellent Also !
I used FF/OC this time, but next time I'm going with the Happy Frog :D
Plant sex (http://boards.cannabis.com/members/veggii-albums-plant-sex.html)
Weedhound
09-09-2008, 03:41 AM
veggie I use Happy Frog initially for my seedlings in 4 inch pots and then go to 1 gal pots and straight FFOF and perlite.....working great for me so far.
veggii
09-09-2008, 03:44 AM
weedhound , have you used the Happy Frog Soil Conditioner ?
Weedhound
09-09-2008, 03:45 AM
I'd probably lose the mineral water as well and go with tap water.....ph correct after adding ONE DROP of ST. And quite frankly......I don't use ST with the Happy Frog or FFOF soils...they don't seem to need anything extra.
Good luck.
Weedhound
09-09-2008, 03:49 AM
No Veggi , I use strictly the Happy Frog soil itself in 4 inchers.....worked great and all sorts of beneficial things in both soils.....another plus. Same with FFOF....no additions; just good tap water at correct ph for soil (about 6.5) and so far its been great. I WAS doing what White R here was doing.......watering too much and just flooding things out and leaving the soil too wet at the same time so I think the problem isa little of both of that in this situation.
I DO use a product called rhizotonic for my roots but its fairly expensive and not a necessary with a quality soil like HF or FFOF imo. ;)
veggii
09-09-2008, 03:55 AM
I DO use a product called rhizotonic for my roots but its fairly expensive and not a necessary with a quality soil like FH or FFOF. ;)
I was @ hydro shop the other day and they were saying that product is coming off the market and the 10 bottles they have left is it! better get them while you can they said, they were xpensive I only had $10 so I couldn't get any
just aheadsup maybe stock up on it if you like it :D
illnillinois
09-09-2008, 04:23 AM
good dirt
proper size container
decent lighting
normal water
let mother nature do the rest
dont feed until at least til min of 5 knode.
l8r
d4twamp
09-09-2008, 05:19 AM
yeah looks a lil to wet
sup ILLn
D:S5:
TheWhiteRider
09-09-2008, 11:33 AM
Thanks to all for replies thus far!!
As for the comment of the soil being wet, as I said, yes it's VERY wet because I just flushed. I woke up this morning and the soil is still quite wet, so I will just be patient and let it dry out for a day or two.
I have a few more questions if y'all don't mind:
1) Can I get this Happy Frog Soil in HD or Lowe's? If so, what specific model and #-#-#?
2) Should I try to put some ST in there before trying new soil and see what happens? OR switch directly to Happy Frog (which I don't have money for right now, I really don't but I get paid on Friday)? OR "let mother nature do its thing" and wait for the 5th node?
I'm sorry but everyone suggests different things and I don't know which advice to follow... I am leaning more towards letting it chill a bit like illnillinois said . If it doesn't work in a couple of days and things are getting worst I'll try adding some ST at a drop per gallon (is that enough?, container says 1/4 teaspoon). If that doesn't work then I will switch soils on the baby and take it from there.
I'll keep you guys updated, so please stick around! Thanks so much!!
Any other additional comments are more than welcome.
TheWhiteRider
09-13-2008, 01:26 PM
Here's an update.
I left the plant alone for 2 whole days without watering after that flush. Things were looking a little better, so I decided to give it some more water (I always wait till the top soil is dry and put my finger into the soil to see if it's wet below). Since it wasn't "wet" (rather barely humid) I decided to give it some water with a minuscule amount of SuperThrive (about a drop a gallon).
Then things kept going worst. Now the first node (the round leaves) are completely yellow (which I read it's normal). But the next node (with the first serrated leaves) is now almost completely yellow (except in the part really close to the stem where the leaves get a little shade from the top leaves, it's still a little green). The yellowing of these leaves did not start at a specific point really. They kind of just became yellow all around. But I don't think that's normal because they have the biggest surface area and thus the highest chance for the plant of getting light.
The top node is still growing and it's still coming out, but I want to fix the problem before it gets un-fixable for the top leaves.
At least the top leaves are a little greener than before (BARELY) but are STILL droopy!! WHY??? What am I doing wrong? Do you think it's the MG?
I am worried pH might be too low but have not checked it again since that previous flush. Would soil pH of 6 be too low? If so how do I increase it? What else could it be??
I am going insane!! Please help!!!
TheWhiteRider
09-14-2008, 05:17 AM
Here are updated pics at almost 3 weeks old.
I wanted to ask something that's been on my mind for a while.
I've read that MJ likes to go through wet and dry cycles. But I've also read that you should keep the soil moist at all times. I go by the "wet and dry" method, but I let it be wet for about 2 days and then once the soil is dry I water immediately. Should this be done in equal cycles of "wet" and "dry" periods? So should I let the plant be dry for a couple of days as well or not?
Please someone tell me this.
Thanks all.
PS: Note that I've taken pics right at the watering day yet again. Sorry!
veggii
09-14-2008, 05:32 AM
do like you are "water then wait couple days too dry them then water again plants looking ok 1 drop per gal ST sounds good
youg seedlings are very easy to overwater be patient if it takes 3 days or 4 days thats what it takes, it all depends on conditions in room heat/humidity ;)
light i would buy more light if your that broke instead of the FF/OC soil and no you can't get it at HD/LOWES
TheMetal1
09-14-2008, 05:35 AM
Looks familiar. It's probably a combination of pH and the MG being too hot for the seedling. In the past, I had to take them out of the pre-fertilized soil and put them in some seedling starter mix. I'm not exactly sure what your next course of action should be... they can pull through, but like I said, in my case I had to do some careful careful transplanting. Prior to that, I just sat there and watched them do absolutely nothing while they stood there in shock.
The first set of leaves, Cotyledons, will usually fall off. They are mostly for that first growth spurt. No biggie.
Cannabis does like a wet/dry cycle... but the time of those periods will vary depending on strain/conditions. You don't really want it to get completely BONE dry... but you want to notice the weight difference between that, and a freshly watered pot. Once you pick it up and go "Woah, that's light" it's time to water :rasta:
Oh, and I wouldn't really expect any damaged foliage to gain its old luster back. To get an idea as to how the plant is doing currently... focus on the top 1/3 of the plant. Damaged leaves will usually either stay the same... get worse... or just fall off. As long as the plant is growing up and out... you're doing at least 1 thing right :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Rusty Trichome
09-14-2008, 12:10 PM
The next time you add perlite, mix it into the soil. Sprinkling it on top does no good.
Miracle Grow soils are a bit hot for seedlings, but just keep in mind it already has nutes. It's good-to-go for about a month before needing to start a regular nute schedule. I used it very sucessfully for years, and the soil I use right now is even hotter.
Ease-up on watering, but don't let it remain dry for more than a day. Don't add nutes or ammendments for a week or two at least, and try to keep from overheating it. You do have a fan on it, right?
TheWhiteRider
09-14-2008, 01:01 PM
Thanks for the feedback all.
Yes, I do have a fan, but just a ceiling fan blowing at full blast all day. Plant gets a small breeze
I think the plant will pull through this rough patch if the new growth is looking good like you've said.
Could someone approve my list of nutes and ammendments to add that I will use in two weeks? I fear this is the hardest part to come.
So far I will get this:
New Soil Mix consisting of:
- 70% Fox Farm Happy Frog Potting Soil (what's the difference with the Ocean Forest FF? should I buy both and mix them together at a certain ratio? Is Happy Frog for vegging and FFOC for flowering? Please explain this)
- 30% Perlite (any vermiculite you think?)
For nutes, I will use:
-FF Big Bloom, Grow Big and Tiger Bloom Trio. I've heard some good things about it. (should I just follow the directions and start at 1/4, then 1/2, then 1?, but at what rate do I do this? Every week is ok? Every watering?)
I will also transplant into bigger pot because I see some roots starting to come out from the bottom holes (YEAAAHH!!)
Allright. I apologize for my noobness and constant questioning of everything. I REALLY want to do this right.
THANKS!
Rusty Trichome
09-14-2008, 01:50 PM
The Fox Farms stuff is pretty good stuff. (it's what I've used for the past few years) Instructions are for weekly application rates. Seedlings get 1/4 strength, a couple of weeks later you can up-it to half strength...but they'll let you know if they want more. You can replace Superthrive with the Big Bloom. No real need for both. Before you purchase all sorts of additives, ammendments and suppliments...get used to using your base nutes. (the Fox Farms stuff) You can go broke very quickly "impulse-shopping" for the little ladies.
A cieling fan may be good for ventilation, but they'll need air circulation (a fan) on them to create a breeze. This strengthens the stem, provides fresh air, and dispurses the heat from the lights.
Still too small for transplant. Give it a few more weeks, unless you're wanting to change soil. If anything, that pot is too big as it is. Very doubtful you are seeing roots out of the bottom yet. Likely they're not even reaching the bottom yet.
Looking back at your troubleshooting form: (sorry, was just waking-up during my last post)
How are you going to flower the plant, if it get's to that point? You'll need to keep light away from them during the dark periods. All night, every night...total darkness. Flowering in a working bedroom is a good way to ruin a grow.
ph is a tad low, but still within the lower-limits. Nutes will pull that number even lower, tho. Learn how to adjust your tap water. Unless the quality is super-crappy, it's a waste to purchase water.
Put the lights about 2 - 4 inches from plant, and leave it there till you need to raise them. Dicking with light intensity can stress a cannabis plant. A thermometer is really a necessity for a newbie. Would get one asap.
For next time...It's a bad idea to take from outdoors, and bringing them indoors. Likely will bring bugs in with 'em. (some bugs leave their eggs in the soil)
Keep them off the floor, and away from direct A/C vent. Too cold, and they start to complain.
That's all I can think of right now, and my legs are falling asleep anyway, lol.
TheWhiteRider
09-15-2008, 01:57 AM
Rust Trichome,
Thank you for such an elaborate reply, it's just what I was looking for.
I will go ahead and get the Fox Farm soil and nutes and start using them once the plant is ready for it. Once I receive the FF nutes I will get rid of the ST.
About the current size of the pot... I chose it because when I started I was not even aware of this forum and had no actual cannabis growing knowledge whatsoever. I realized after reading many posts that the size of the pot IS too big just like you said, and that it's better to transplant 3-4 times. Next time I will do things much more different, such as starting in a 3" pot or cup or something and then transplant appropriately. But I will have to contradict you in the fact that the roots ARE coming out from the bottom (just two in a single hole out of 8). They were very small at the 2 weeks and are now much bigger, but not overflowing. I think the fast root development is due to the MG.
As for the flowering period... I know that they need very strict drakness perios and for this I will put the plant in my room closet (where there is no ventilation, but I think that at night the plant doesn't require as much CO2 as during the day (is this correct or not). I thought plants transpired during the day mostly. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
As for the fan, I will get a new small fan to aim more towards the plant and give it some more fresh air and stem strength development as you suggested.
The A/C vent is not directly blowing towards the plant, it's just right above the plant.
But anyways, thanks for the comments and please stay close to give me some more great advice!! :thumbsup:
veggii
09-15-2008, 07:24 AM
hey umm use the happy frog next grow for seedlings and then transplant seedlings into FF/OC soil and follow the FoxFarm nutes schedule after a couple sucsessful grows start looking into advanced nutes/amendments and stuff as things get expensive fast! and you really want to know how too tell whats going on with plants by looking at them a wrong diagnosis can be fatal.
go easy on all nutes etc and flush once a month and be prepared for the emergency flush! you are know a Cannabis EMT ! lol got ph tester? they sell the liquid ones cheap and read stinky's logs! she knows her stuff! keep your grow area clean and sanitized good luck
TheWhiteRider
09-15-2008, 12:03 PM
What's the difference between the Happy Frog Soil and Happy Frog Conditioner?
I thought that using FF/OC in addition with nutes is too hot for the plant? Maybe too hot for vegging but not for flowering?
stinkyattic
09-15-2008, 02:27 PM
Too much water
MG soil is too 'hot' for seedlings, and 'moisture control' indoors is not good- it stays too damp.
You MUST run CalMAg Plus when you use distilled water.
Distilled water is not acidic in a way that matters; its ionic strength is incredibly low and the pH reading is irrelevant. Unless your tap water is HORRIBLE, use it.
Don't spray seedlings or any plant with distilled water, and avoid spraying with plain water. This is called 'reverse foliar feeding' and leaches mobile nutes right out of the leaves.
Plan for your flower time... that's a small space.
el chupanebre
09-29-2008, 04:28 PM
Don't spray seedlings or any plant with distilled water, and avoid spraying with plain water. This is called 'reverse foliar feeding' and leaches mobile nutes right out of the leaves.
Is it alright to mix neem oil with distilled water to foliar spray the plants?
stinkyattic
09-29-2008, 04:34 PM
That's fine, because you are not going to mist them to the point of runoff, or even enough to have to worry. Go VERY LIGHT on neem applications. Use the finest mist you can. Hair-care products come in bottles with fine mist sprayers, FYI.
the image reaper
09-29-2008, 04:39 PM
That's fine, because you are not going to mist them to the point of runoff, or even enough to have to worry. Go VERY LIGHT on neem applications. Use the finest mist you can. Hair-care products come in bottles with fine mist sprayers, FYI.
be real careful with them 'hair-care products' ... :S2:
stinkyattic
09-29-2008, 05:00 PM
Haha REap, I gotta worry more about the hat thing- you know when you were a kid and some clucking auntie would warn that if you wear a hat too much your hair falls out? lol! I can't live without a nice Sox hat to hide under :(
TheWhiteRider
10-01-2008, 11:18 PM
Here is an update.
I kept the plant in the same soil until yesterday afternoon, when I finally got the Happy Frog Soil and the Perlite. Before I transplanted, it wad doing real bad. I flushed it two times (once with a decent amount of ST) in an attempt to flush the nutrients out of the Miracle Grow shit. The plant was still droopy, and the leaves were all getting yellow. I even had to cut the first node of leaves because they were dead, yellow and brown. You can also notice some nute burn from the Superthrive in one of the pics. I think the plant was seriously locked out because it was not growing at all (maybe 2" per day and nodes coming at quite slow).
Once I transplanted it, things started looking better. For the transplant, I waited until the soil was dry. I tapped it from the bottom and it came out. I noticed 1/4 of the bottom of the soil was surrounded by white roots. They looked quite healthy. Then I put it into a new pot of the same size (since bigger would not be beneficial I think, it's still a small plant) with a layer of 3/4" Perlite stones and then a mix of 70% FF + 30% Perlite. Most of the MG is still there, but at least surrounded by well aerated Happy Frog.
In addition, I added a box fan blowing at slowest speed. Before, there was not enough direct fluid movement around the plant so this is much better. Temperatures dropped thanks to the convective cooling and stem movement increased due to the flow of air. So hopefully the stem will get stronger.
Good news is that the plant looks much better even after only 1 day!! You can see in the pics that the top leaves are much greener with no nute burn on the tips. The plant grew the most it has this last day. The top node came out about 8 mm, a record so far (for me at least ;)).
I will keep you guys updated, and sorry for the long post. I just wanted to log my progress in here for other people to study and use as reference.
TheWhiteRider
10-02-2008, 12:58 AM
I meant to say 2 mm instead of 2" per day. I don't know why I typed inches, I was thinking millimiters... I was totally high, so maybe I do know why... :jointsmile:
Pinkfloydfan1973
10-02-2008, 05:40 PM
I'm not an expert, but I think that if you've already found that the pot size you were using is getting rootbound at the bottom, it'd be a good idea to go to a larger pot... especially if you're having probs with too much nutes.
TheWhiteRider
10-02-2008, 10:07 PM
Thanks for your comment, pinkfloydfan
I actually gave a lot of thought to this matter. I gathered that moving the plant into a bigger pot when being so young would cause root bound in the future; also, the pot would not drain well at all (especially after having 65% Moisture Control MG). And going to a smaller pot was not an option since I would have to mess with the roots to fit the new small pot.
Thus, I decided to put it into the same pot size but putting a hefty amount of my soil mix at the bottom of it and surrounding the soon to come roots. Basically, the roots would be in direct and immediate contact with the new soil mix.
Anyways, I think my theory was right because the plant changed right away. Like no joke, today alone it has grown so much and all the new leaves are really green. This plant is 1 month old people!! The MG sucks balls!! The Happy Frog kicks ass! I really thought using MG wasn't that bad, but after actually trying it I realize how bad it really is. And FYI, I will transplant again, once I feel the plant is ready to increase in pot size.
Thanks to everybody for their advice, it was well put. I will keep logging in the progress. We could make this my log grow if one of the admins is willing to.
Hopefully things will stay good!
TheWhiteRider
10-03-2008, 11:05 PM
This was taken today.
Plant is coming out quite nicely thus far.
timbo123
10-05-2008, 12:11 AM
your setup is too much for a seedling. Seedlings need less drastic situation. Your setup results in too high a temps aroung your seedling, could cause heat burn and more importantly, if your plants survives, it will have more chance to become male or hermi. Keep your lights further and later bring them closer when the seedling has grown a bit more. Seedlings at that age need a mellow environment. (1 100w cfl 2-3 inches away is fine until later when they have more leaves.)
As for fungi infestation, using neem is a good idea. Kill the bastards before they spread although that type of fungi does not really pose a seroius problem for mature plants.
TheWhiteRider
10-05-2008, 06:58 PM
Temperatures were high before I bought the fan, and I think that was also part of the problem. But since I bought this fan and having blowing at the lowest speed directly to plant, the lights end up radiating much less heat.
I think I finally found the correct environmental conditions for the plant.
TheWhiteRider
10-22-2008, 12:29 AM
Update.
Plant has grown quite a bit since the last time I posted. It is growing pretty quickly everyday, but the plant overall is very droopy. I've been watering every 3 days and making sure the soil is dry. Also, a lot of the lower leaves have died and I've had to cut them off. You can see some big ones died in the pics. It's like the problem starts from the bottom and goes upward. And all the young leaves look great when they come out but then they start getting brown and yellow and dying.
I've started to feed it with nutes (Grow Big at 1/2) just yesterday. I am hoping it will improve things a bit.
I've been measuring pH with some strips I got from HD for aquariums. The pH of the tap water is 6.2-7 (it varies, but it might be the error margin of the strips). Runoff is around 6-6.2. It's hard to say. I should get a digital pH meter.
But I think the pH is definitely too low. Anyone know how I can raise it ASAP?
Please look at pics. All opinions are welcome.
PS: I think it might be a female judging from the pistils in one of the pics. Look up close and tell me if you agree.
stinkyattic
10-22-2008, 12:59 PM
Are you still running superthrive? If so, stop.
You can raise pH by adding a commercial plant pH up to your fert solution until it is about ~7.5 to bring a soil that is showing runoff 6.2 up to 6.7. But the normal way to deal with that is flushing according to the sticky at the top of this section.
You are definitely getting locked out by low pH- all the symptoms are there.
One last thing to check is your pot drainage. Pot needs a pot that drains well. If it has a catch tray built in, rip it off and feel up into the drain holes to see if there is soggy soil up there. That is often the case with those, and can make low pH problems MUCH worse.
TheWhiteRider
10-22-2008, 10:14 PM
Stinky,
Thank you very much for your reply. I feared that no1 would answer since the thread is wayy too long (sorry for that).
About superthrive, no I am not using it anymore. I used it a couple of weeks back and it helped promote new growth, but I stopped since I do not want to overnute the plant.
About the pH, I've flushed the plant twice within the last couple of weeks in order to try to raise the pH, but the tap water I get is usually more acidic than alkalyne. I need to get my hands on some product that will raise pH. Could you specifically mention a brand/product name that I can get in HD or Lowe's? I tried to look for stuff in their store but I could not find anything of the sort.
The pot drainage... I made extra holes when I transplanted the plant and I also put a 3/4" layer of Perlite at the bottom so that the soil drains nicely. I think it might be working because when I pick up the pot when it's been ~3 days from watering it feels pretty light. I've tried to see whether the soil is moist at the bottom but I can't since I have that layer of Perlite.
Let me know if you can help me.
Thanks again.
TheWhiteRider
10-24-2008, 01:12 AM
UPDATE
Bought some Hydrated Lime after work and mixed about 1 tablespoon in a gallon of 6.2 pH Water. I did a dip test and water came out off the charts, way too alkalyne. So I poured 5/6 of the gallon out and replaced with new tap water. Dip test... pH came out to be about 7.2
So I flushed the plant with this new water and measured the pH of the soil drainage... pH came out to be about 6.6.... PERFECT.
Also, I think it might be a hermie since I might be seeing some balls come out off the sides of the white pistils. Good news is I bought some reverse dutch master and will apply it after a couple days from starting flowering (which will be soon).
Wish me luck!
TheWhiteRider
10-25-2008, 01:14 PM
1 1/2 days after the deed, the plant looks better. The leaves have started to pop up a little; they still remain droopy but much less than in the pics you see above.
I will double the dose of Grow Big today using the pH corrected water. Hopefully the plant will love it since it is not in lock-up anymore.
I will post pics when I see a more significant change.
Can anybody comment on the whole hermie situation? I will try to take closer pics of the pistils but it's hard with my camera because it doesn't like to go up close. But do the pistils coming out first make it more of a female than a male? Because I don't think reverse dutch master will work if it's originally a male.
420F4i
10-27-2008, 12:24 AM
Can anybody comment on the whole hermie situation? I will try to take closer pics of the pistils but it's hard with my camera because it doesn't like to go up close. But do the pistils coming out first make it more of a female than a male? Because I don't think reverse dutch master will work if it's originally a male.
Pics!!!!
TheWhiteRider
11-14-2008, 02:26 AM
Here are the close-up pics of the pistils/balls. First one is from weeks ago when the first pistils came out, and the next two are the same ones but taken today. You can see how the pistils (or at least I think that's what they are) came out, and then some balls come out underneath while the pistils turned amber. I am still running 18/6.
I think the plant is showing sex in the first two nodes because it was on 12/12 for the first weeks of its life. But on the other upper nodes some pistils are coming just like these did. I received the reverse dutch master so I will start flowering this weekend and apply it the first day and the 10th day, like the instructions say.
Do you guys think that because the pistils came out first it's originally a female plant? I am hoping this is true so that I can transform them back!!
HELP ME SEX IT! Are those balls or am I wrong?
TheWhiteRider
11-15-2008, 08:12 PM
Anyone?! Please help me sex it.
TheWhiteRider
11-17-2008, 02:06 AM
Could those be Calyxes? I only see one hair sticking out though, not really in a "V shape" like I've read.
I sprayed reverse dutch today, which is the first day of flowering. I am being real careful about light leaks and such.
Stinky, you said in another thread that males are in the small stems? Could you ellaborate?
Thanks!
TheWhiteRider
11-21-2008, 12:09 AM
I finally started flowering!!!
I transplanted to a bigger pot (8 1/2") and started the 12/12 period all in the same day. I watered it with adjusted tap water at 7 pH and 1 drop of Superthrive. I also flushed the next day because the runoff from the soil was wayyyy too acidic. I can't know what it really was because it came outside the range of colors of my dip test... too yellow.
So I flushed at x2.5 the volume of the new pot with ~7.2 pH, but my runoff pH dip test did not stop being yellow!! I don't know why it wasn't coming down enough to be inside the scale range. So I just stopped because I had to go to work. I watered it with nute/water solution when I came home.
Now the plant is looking pretty good. Calyxes are coming out everywhere with two beautiful white pistils sticking out!! :thumbsup:
The pH seems too low (unless my fish pond dip test sucks balls...), but the plant keeps growing at a healthy rate and the leaves have perked up quite a bit.
Could it be this specific strain likes lower pH levels?
TheWhiteRider
11-21-2008, 01:11 PM
Anyone care to comment!! I'd like to know what the experts think!
If no1 will comment, then I guess I'll stop updating. Not really a threat... I just don't think it's worth the time if I'm talking to myself...
Thanks to all for your help thus far.
TheWhiteRider
12-04-2008, 12:15 AM
Ok, you got me... I actually enjoy posting updates of my baby! :D
Pics are 2 1/2 weeks into flowering. Using 1/2 strength nutes every other watering with pH adjusted to ~7.2. Tap water comes out at 7.8-8 but I don't have a way to bring it down. Is it ok to use the pH down they sell in the pet stores? Or does it have some kind of chemical that affects the plant? I still use the water even though I know 1 pH point above your plant's range could shock it. But the plant seems to be pulling through. Lower leaves are dying but I think this is natural because they had a rough childhood, lol.
Starting to look nuggalicious :jointsmile:
There are some burnt leaves because of heat stress. I had to remove the fan for 2 days while some family was visiting. It was hard to tell them not to shine any kind of light in the room at night, lol.
Enjoy and comments are always appreciated!
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