Air Cooling Hood on Light Mover

[chrisdl805]

I just set up my light mover that has a 1K watt light thats air cooled. I have a problem with the venting binding up. My room is only 7ft wide and my light travels 5ft so that only leaves 1 ft on each side for about 3-4 feet of ducting. I have some chain holding up the ducting on either side so it doesn't hang down on the plants. Hopefully that makes sense but I can take a picture of it tomorrow.

It wouldnt work good enough that I felt comfortable leaving it unattended. So I'm using my intake fan that i would normally use to cool the light to just suck in cold air and dump it at floor. Then on my light I have a duct booster on one end then on the other side of the hood i have the venting hooked up to outside.

I think the room just might not be wide enought to use a light mover AND air cool the lights. I'm thinking of just using another light and having all 3 stationary. Or I could loose the air cooling hoods and use an air conditioner to bring my room temp down...Use the light mover with the 1k and use the 600w stationary.

[GaGrown]

Wait till the mover travels to the end of the track.Take a measurment for your flex. Put the flex on the hood with a stainless steel clamp.Use a bungie to hold it up. Don't wrap the bungie around your flex,just let it relax on top of the bungie. That way your light will travel back and forth with ease. I have a 4 foot hydrofarm light mover. :thumbsup:

[chrisdl805]

I'll give that a try. How do you like the Hydropharm mover? They are pretty cheap so I was thinking of getting one. Mine Is a Light Rail 3.5 Intelidrive. It takes about 30-45sec to travel 3ft 3" and then it has an adjustment knob that can delay it up to a minute at each end of the rail. I read that yours takes 20 min to travel 4ft?

[rhizome]

I like the light rails a lot more than the hydrofarm movers. I've always ended up having to dick w/ the slip clutch on the hydrofarm units, and there's no travel adjustment.

Go down to Casa de Pot and have a look at the replacement hardware for sliding screen doors- those trolley sets will slip right onto your rail. Space 1 per 18" of flexx duct. You don't have a lot of weight, so you can use the single wheel trolleys and put them on the side of the rail that doesn't have the travel stops.

If your hood has the duct fittings in line w/ the bulb, and it's six inch, I've seen folks run aircraft cable right thru the duct and hood, fixed at each end. Must be braided steel or other temp resistant material- hemp twine isn't gonna work. You just have to install a mount point at each end- long bolt( also casa de pot) thru flange fitting works well. Drill flange for bolt, use 3 nut on bolt (head/flange/nut on one end, nut/flange/nut on the other to keep flange in round. You'll want to use another se of nuts to prevent cable from slipping. Run @ highest points w/ muy tension- prop need a barrel adjuster. Let run for a while w/ bulb turned off to make sure that your getting clearance off of the bulb- six inch flanges should leave enough room. CDP will also have " starter flanges" that you can mount onto your fan, if you don't want to mod the fan and moving duct must be attached to it.

In a pinch, you can run a shower curtain rod ( or 3/4" pvc pipe) paralell to the rail, and use those shower curtain rings w/ the barrell bearings- yer duct will pull a little offside, but nothing to cause a problem.

Hope this helps.

[GaGrown]

I'll give that a try. How do you like the Hydropharm mover? They are pretty cheap so I was thinking of getting one. Mine Is a Light Rail 3.5 Intelidrive. It takes about 30-45sec to travel 3ft 3" and then it has an adjustment knob that can delay it up to a minute at each end of the rail. I read that yours takes 20 min to travel 4ft?

With the mover that you have.... That is Top of The line!!! I like the Hydrofarm mover,but it is designed for one lamp. I use 2 600's,with Pro-Ultra lite hoods. So I have to vent the top portion of the room and not the hoods...I like your rail better!:thumbsup:

[chrisdl805]

I like the light rails a lot more than the hydrofarm movers. I've always ended up having to dick w/ the slip clutch on the hydrofarm units, and there's no travel adjustment.

Go down to Casa de Pot and have a look at the replacement hardware for sliding screen doors- those trolley sets will slip right onto your rail. Space 1 per 18" of flexx duct. You don't have a lot of weight, so you can use the single wheel trolleys and put them on the side of the rail that doesn't have the travel stops.

If your hood has the duct fittings in line w/ the bulb, and it's six inch, I've seen folks run aircraft cable right thru the duct and hood, fixed at each end. Must be braided steel or other temp resistant material- hemp twine isn't gonna work. You just have to install a mount point at each end- long bolt( also casa de pot) thru flange fitting works well. Drill flange for bolt, use 3 nut on bolt (head/flange/nut on one end, nut/flange/nut on the other to keep flange in round. You'll want to use another se of nuts to prevent cable from slipping. Run @ highest points w/ muy tension- prop need a barrel adjuster. Let run for a while w/ bulb turned off to make sure that your getting clearance off of the bulb- six inch flanges should leave enough room. CDP will also have " starter flanges" that you can mount onto your fan, if you don't want to mod the fan and moving duct must be attached to it.

In a pinch, you can run a shower curtain rod ( or 3/4" pvc pipe) paralell to the rail, and use those shower curtain rings w/ the barrell bearings- yer duct will pull a little offside, but nothing to cause a problem.

Hope this helps.


It took me a while to figure out what Casa De Pot was, but after thinking I could get all the materials from Home Depot, I was like wait Casa-Home De-pot...I like your idea with running the braided wire through the ducting and hood. Yes it's a 6" straight through hood so it should work fine. I'm a little confused how to mount the wire to the side with the fan. On the exhaust side I could just mount it inside my duct. Right now its set up to push the air through the hood, should I be pulling it? Also were you saying to mount the fan to the hood? I thought about doing that so it would just blow air from inside the room through the hood, then exhaust it outside.

Thats sort of what i'm doing right now with a 6" duct booster. Its keeping the room temp at 77f-83f and thats with a 600w that isn't beeing cooled at all. I'm using my 4" can fan to suck in cold air from outside like an intake.

Thanks For all the Help:thumbsup: