Leaf Rising Tips Bending

[Dreadscale]

Hi All :thumbsup:

My Plants are 14 days into 12/12
Using 1000w HPS with lots of ventilation.
Soil runoff has a PH of 6.5 average on all plants.

First day or so into 12/12 I gave them a feeding of BIG BUD, 0-10-40, it also is 7% soluble Mg. I believe I burnt them then.
Plants look pretty healthy except a little tip burn, and for some reason the leaves seem to be stretching real hard to the light, and the leaf tips are curling on some.

Do I need to flush them?
If so what should I feed them after flushing?
I have only used PH adjusted water since the BIG BUD incident.
Also what is molasses used for? I have been reading of people using it about this time into flowering, should I use some?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP !!!

[hybridlove420]

nutrients speaking, i am possibly the worst person for advice, as burns seem to occur more than buds...

however, i can offer assistance otherwise...

1) molassas is very sugary, and fully or carbohydrates and all the good stuff plants love. in other words, while the plant enjoys the co2 in the air, it would LOVE some carbon sources (sugars) in the soil so that it can really focus on making big sticky resin glands

2)how many plants do you have? 1000w is a lot of light. it should be aproximately 1.5-2ft above the plant (close as possible without heat burns).

[michaelpeg]

i would be very happy if my plants looked like that lol

[stinkyattic]

You might want to flush them as a precaution, or give only water next feeding and monitor for worsening of the tipburn.
If you flush, feed immediately afterwards with a complete fertilizer mixed at 1/4 what the bottle says, then continue as normal.
Molasses should be used at 1 tablespoon or so per gallon and say 'unsulfured' on the label.

[Dreadscale]

Thank you all for the input.:thumbsup:

hybridlove420 thanks for your thoughts, and I am budding 4 plants on the 1000 W. A little overkill but I payed about as much for the 1000W setup as a 400W conversion bulb was going to cost me. ;)
I am aware of the burn hazard and train the plants " STAY AWAY FROM THE LIGHT, DON'T GO INTO THE LIGHT" :D

michaelpeg Thanks for the kind words. :thumbsup:
The credit for my success so far goes to all the people here who have been a great help to me. They are geniuses!!!
Take a look below at pix from when I joined this forum looking for help.:o First 3 are them, 6 days after I got them, last 2 are today, 45 days after I received then.

stinkyattic Thanks once more for your help.:1baa:
Should the 1/4 strength Complete Fertilizer contain N, at this point? Please bare with me I new at this.

In the last photo below you can see discoloring on the older leaves, is this burn or lockout or just normal plant cycle thing?
You can also see the tips curling quite a bit, WHY?
From what I have been reading NOW is a good time for the molasses, I think I'll give it a try.

Thanks Again

[stinkyattic]

Couple things.
I zoomed in on the bottom LH pic in the last post. I see curled-under leaves and the beginning of tip-scorch. I ALSO see what appears from this angle to be built-in drip trays under your pots. Is this the case? Your plants almost look rootbound, and this may be because the drip trays are preventing the soil from draining properly and there are soggy soil zones that the roots can't use.
In the 2nd pic, that plant is showing signs of fert burn or salt burn. It should be flushed. The 1/4 strength nute is only for the final step in a flush to replace the minreals etc. you have removed from the soil along with the bad stuff.
Those larger plants are probably ready to be moved into 5 gallon buckets with LOTS of holes drilled in the bottoms AND SIDES. I use a 5/8" paddle bit for this. Even though the plants are not TALL, they are MASSIVE and will get even bigger before the end of flower, and I'll betcha that the roots are a big clod in there right now just waiting to be given more room to spread out in search of nice fresh soil.