Simple nOOb instructions for growin' da dankness

[stinkyattic]

I slapped this together for someone who I gave cuttings to.
It doesn't cover room setup, but just basic plant care.
Look here for room setup considerations:
http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-growing/132514-noob-s-guide-growroom-set-up-work-progress.html

Together, these two threads will really get new growers off to a good start, and help experienced growers understand the methods behind the madness better.

Enjoy!

[stinkyattic]

Soil:
There are a baffling array of soil choices, and some are more appropriate than others. A true soil has a range of ingredients that may include compost, lightener, peat, lime, and even living organisms such as mycorrhizal fungi, among others. Soilless mixes are much simpler in composition and work very well with the chemical fertilizer regimen that many new growers will begin with.

For simplicity, you can use ProMix, Sunshine Mix, John McInnis', or any equivalent soilless mix which contains nothing but PEAT, LIME, and PERLITE. Any time you use a peat-based soil, start in small cups and re-pot frequently, letting no plant sit in the same pot more than 6 weeks. This soil is also fine for seedlings. The commercial seedling mix I like, Faffards Seedling Starter, is almost identical to ProMix but has a finer texture and a bit of vermiculite added to it as well.

Read the links below for more info, ESPECIALLY if you plan a soilless grow.

If you want a true soil, you have the option of assembling one yourself. For general use on plants from about week 3 to harvest, the soil that I think is the simplest to make is based upon the Agway 'manure and humus' product. The composted humus is the #1 most important ingredient in this mix, and will buffer your soil pH, while providing nutrition for your plants. It's $2.50 for a 40 lb bag. One of these bags, mixed to a total ratio of 2:1 soil : perlite (approximately a regular-sized bag of perlite also from Agway), will give you plenty of light, rich medium that will not interfere with your fertilizer regime the way a pre-fertilized soil such as Miracle Gro will. This compost mix is also already pH balanced for cannabis, and buffered around 6.8, ideal for your vegging and flowering plants. You can substitute other bagged compost, such as seaweed compost, if the pH is correct (it should come in at 6.9 or so) but don't use straight composted manure. It has too high a level of nutrients in it.

Also avoid starting seedlings in pre-fertilized bagged grow media such as Fox Farms Ocean Forest. It has a lot of fertilizer in it and is better for later, when the plants are big and strong.

Re-using soil is not recommended since pests and eggs and salts from your previous grow can harm future plants. Your garden plants will LOVE it though!

Fertilizer:
For fertilizer, you have a lot of choices, but the ones I have really been impressed by are the Botanicare PureBlend Pro line and the Canna line. PureBlend is not OMRI listed organic, but is so heavily organic that you really can consider it the same deal. The 'Grow' formula is fantastic, and you will find it tough to make mistakes. Canna is also not OMRI certified but carries the European organic certification and is an amazing product. They even make a living soil that smells like rich warm earth and grows spectacularly happy plants.

Supplements:
There are scores of supplements on the market, and these should be used with caution. The safest are carb boosters such as Sweet, and unsulfured molasses. The most dangerous are the super bloom high Phosphorous products, and hormone products, which, while they can improve yield with proper use, can also burn your plants if overapplied, or used when there is already excessive fertilizer in the soil. I generally think people should avoid these until they have made it through a couple good harvests, as you will have more than enough yield already for personal use. The combination of a low dose of molasses plus Sweet or TopMax (an OMRI listed carb synthesizer), though, is a real winner. Increased available carbon to the plant stimulates the production of resins and terpenes, allowing the plant to produce both medicinal and aromatic compounds to its genetic potential.

Water:
Check your tap water to see if it is suitable for use. Soil growers will rarely have tap water problems, and the high humus content of a compost based soil further negates any pH imbalances, but it is a good thing to be aware of. Water between 6.5 and 7 is generally acceptable for soil use as long as hardness is not excessive.

Planning your pot size:
Read these two threads to plan your re-potting schedule, which can be mystifying for a new gardener.
http://boards.cannabis.com/basic-growing/151941-importance-continuous-canopy-s-all-about-efficiency-baby.html
http://boards.cannabis.com/grow-faqs/148236-why-should-i-re-pot-my-plant-why-not-put-seed-large-pot.html

All right so I did a little search and discovered that finding that Agway compost west of the Mississippi is impossible. BUMMER!
I'll give you the specs on it so you can check your local farmer supply for a substitute:

-It's made of composted humus and composted manure.
-The fert numbers are 0.5-0.5-0.5.
-It is treated for pests and weed seeds, packaged, and bagged. I don't consider 'bulk' compost from outdoor bins a substitute!!! Get one that is GUARANTEED free of pests!
-It's pretty darn chunky and lumpy. This is a good thing.
-The pH comes in right around 6.8-6.9.
Composts under about $5/40# are preferable. Those seaweed ones are lovely and all but can be quite expensive.

I saw in another thread there was a suggestion to add a note about soilless mixes, specifically ProMix, to this thread... Here ya go, my girl Foxy layin' it out for ya:


I've been using ProMix BX lately and the trick to avoiding pH problems is this:

Promix is stabilized at the packaging plant by addition of lime, a pH buffer (CaCO3). The pH of peat, the major component, is naturally around 5ish. The lime keeps the pH up above 6 UNTIL IT IS USED UP. This occurs because when you add water, you are allowing a chemical reaction (neutralization of the acids in the peat by the lime) to take place. Over time, the amount of lime left will drop, and this neutralization stops taking place.

Your job as the soilless ProMix grower is to keep ahead of the pH!

Typically you will start to see problems after about 8 weeks of the plant being in the same pot. This is because the lime is used up and the peat is breaking down into a sludgy peaty acidic swampy mess. pH will plummet.

So how do you avoid this? Simple!

Pot up into a pot that is JUST big enough for your plants. Time your grow so you are potting up into the next size pot, with fresh ProMix, every 5-6 weeks so that new root growth is ALWAYS going into nice fresh soil.

Staying on schedule, you should rarely if ever have to flush to keep your mix at the desireable soilless range which is about 0.4 pH points below the range for soil.

Good luck.

[stinkyattic]

Initiating the flower cycle:
As you are most likely aware, cannabis is a photoperiod-sensitive plant which needs 12 hours of uninterrupted and complete darkness to bloom. You will need a space that has no light leaks, yet can still be ventilated, to flower properly. Anything from a converted armoire or closet, to one of the purpose-built grow tents on the market, can achieve this.
When you have decided that your plants are ready to flower, basically, that they are about half the size at which you can finish them, stop feeding your Grow fertilizer. You need to reduce the amount of Nitrogen in each feeding by half or more. Put your lights on a timer set to 12 on, 12 off. For efficient use of electricity, most people run their lights at night to take advantage of the cool night air and reduced kwH rates from the utilities company. It is very important that the dark period not be interrupted during the flower cycle, as it can lead to reduced yield, revegetating, and the Dreaded Hermaphrodite. If you absolutely must check the plants at 'night', use a GREEN light, as it is far less usable to plants.

[stinkyattic]

Stresses and problems:
Things that can cause stress and eventual hermaphroditism among your plants, and the ways to prevent them, include the following:
-Light leaks. Check during the dark period to be certain no light is coming through cracks or ductwork.
-Heat stress. Keep temperatures below 85 F at all times. 75 or thereabouts is comfortable for your plants during their lights on cycle. Spikes up to 95 will not kill the plant, but are a source of stress. Night temperatures should be only 10-15 degrees F less than day temps. Low temps are also dangerous, and if you grow in a cellar, lift your plants up off the floor on shipping pallets or a table.
-High humidity. Humidity more than about 50% runs the risk of mold in your buds. Again, cellars can be dangerous. An application of Kilz oil-based primer on exposed moist concrete is a way to help kill and prevent mold that is already present. Old carpeting can also harbor mold spores. Moldy buds are dangerous, can cause respiratory ailments, and should NEVER be smoked under any circumstances.
A rootbound condition. Allow about a gallon of soil per foot of main stem that your plant will finish at. A plant flowered at 1 foot will be very happy in a 3 gallon pail with PLENTY of drainage. Holes drilled up the sides of the pot are wonderful to help aerate the roots, prevent root rot, and aid in uptake of nutrients. A plant that has been aggressively trained and pruned will naturally need a larger pot- just use your instinct when choosing pot sizes. Free pots can be found out back of the Hadley Garden Center on Rt9 in Hadley MA in a large wooden crate. They should be thoroughly bleached before use. The square white pots sold by Liquid Sun in Putney VT are IDEAL for flowering indoor soil-grown plants, and I typically finish a trained plant at 24â?� in a pot like that.
Fertilizer problems. Overuse of supplements can stress your plants to the point of herming. When you try out a new one, apply at a dilute rate to see how your plants react to it. High temperatures will make any undesired effects much more severe.
Identifying and dealing with herms:
Hermaphrodite flowers will show a tiny, ~3mm long, creamy-yellow growth that looks like a banana set in amongst the calyxes. This is a male flower, called a 'herm' or 'nanner' by growers. It contains pollen with no Y chromosome. The pollen is usually viable, and will lead to a seedy crop. The offspring will be virtually ALL female; however, this is STILL not a very desirable thing to have happen in your garden!!! You can easily pick the male flowers out with a pair of tweezers or your fingernails if they are long. Check regularly. In a smaller home grow, the option of throwing out the whole plant really isn't one you have to take. Go through weekly and comb the female buds for herms. If a plant shows any, remove them, and tag the plant so you know to check it more regularly. Fix any cultural problems you may be having. Overripe plants will also start throwing nanners on you, so be careful how long past the harvest date you go. A fine mist of clean water will render pollen non-viable, but avoid adding moisture to the buds and the air surrounding them, as mold may form.

[stinkyattic]

Pest control:
You may encounter pests in your grow at some point, thrips and two-spotted mites being the most destructive, but prevention is simple. The oil of the Indian neem tree, has, among others, the property of being EXTREMELY distasteful to common garden pests. A spray made of one teaspoon Neem concentrate (Green Light brand is OMRI listed for organic farming) per quart spray bottle, with lukewarm water and a drop or 2 of dish soap, makes an effective (but smelly!) preventative spray. Trust me, use the neem. You don't want mites. They are pure evil. Mist lightly once or twice a week, never to the point of runoff, as overapplication CAN suffocate the plants. You will see that the neem has adhered when after a few applications your plants take on a more healthy, glossy appearance. Never apply neem after the 3rd week of flower, as it can leave distasteful residues on your buds. If pests DO appear, there are several options at the grow shop. I prefer bug bombs, set off 4 days apart, to kill pests. Pyrethrin sprays are also wonderful and very safe to use. Again, allow plenty of time before harvest when you are using chemicals on your plants. If you have an insect problem, do NOT flower until you are confident that it is under control.

[stinkyattic]

Harvesting:
A typical cannabis plant bred for indoor cultivation will average around 8 weeks from when you turn back the lights to harvest. Strains that run as fast as 6 weeks or as long as 12 are not uncommon, but the bulk lie in the 7-9 week range. A couple weeks before harvest time, you will notice that the creamy white pistils are starting to turn brown. Be careful not to confuse brown pistils from natural ripening to premature ripening due to heat stress. When most of the pistils are brown, and production of fresh white ones has slowed, start checking the trichomes, or 'crystals', with a 30x magnifier. They start off clear, and the plant will have a sparkly look in bright light. As it ripens, the trichs cloud, and the appearance of the buds becomes more frosty or hazy. When almost all of the trichs are cloudy, your harvest window has begun. Harvesting early will maximize the cerebral effects of the strain you are working with, while a later harvest, when the trichs are starting to turn amber and the THC is degrading, will give you a more body-oriented stone. This is nice for painkilling (muscle pain in particular), anti-anxiety, and anti-insomnia purposes.

[stinkyattic]

That's it. Simpler than you thought. I'll add a seedling one when I feel like it :D

[Psycho4Bud]

Another sticky for Stinky.......excuse me while I get a wet wipe.:D

Have a good grow!:jointsmile:

[stinkyattic]

I might as well do the seedling one here, too.

Stinky's Seedling Survival Guide

I know everyone is all big on the wet paper towel thing. I'm not.
There are a couple legitimate reasons for this.
First, to check them, you have to disturb them.
Second, that tap root can SHOOT out. It has tiny hairs on it that can get stuck to the paper towel, and it's tough to plant the sprouted seed without damaging it in this case.

I prefer to do it this way:
Take a glass test tube of the sort that good cigars come in. Put the seeds in it. Add just enough water so that they barely float, but are not covered. Put the stopper back on and lay the tube sort of diagonally on its side in a dim and slightly warm place (a cardboard box on top of your fridge is just about perfect).
The seeds should 'pop' in anywhere from 24 hours to a week, depending upon temps, seed age, and husk thickness.
When you see the tip of the taproot sticking out about 1-2 mm, it's time to plant. The taproot is white, but may have a dark tip. This is normal.
It's easy to get the seeds out of the tube; simply flood it with room-temperature water and pour them into a teacup.

Plant your seeds in small containers to start. You will be transplanting them very soon. Bathroom-sized dixie cups with a bunch of holes in them are fine, as are the nursery 6-packs that fucking petunias come in. Fill right to the top with a seedling starting soil. It must be of very fine texture. Promix is fine; so is Farfard seedling mix, and Happy Frog soil is said to be excellent for seedlings too, but I haven't tried it yet. The point is to have a fine, light soil with no added fertilizer in it. If you go with a box store seedling mix, fill the pots and FLUSH them before use.
Seeds should be planted no more than 1/3 of an inch deep. The taproot should face DOWN. You may put the pots under a propagation dome until the cotyledons emerge, but as soon as you see them, remove the dome- at this point they are vulnerable to damping-off, a fungal disease that is incurable and deadly.

I prefer to put my young seedlings under a small T5 flourescent fixture, but in the past I have been perfectly happy with a T12 flourescent shop light fitted with cool white or daylight tubes. They should be no more than 2 inches from the tops of the plants. Give them 18/6 or 24/0 hours of light. I like 24/0, but it is up to you.
At this point, it is very important not to let the soil dry out, but at the same time, to avoid drowning the little plants. The plant has a VERY limited root system! I like to water with one of those cheap plastic ketchup dispensers they have at diners. This allows me to control the water stream very well and not disturb the plants.

DO NOT FERTILIZE YET!!!!!

Soon you will see a pair of longer, serrated leaves coming out. These are the first 'true leaves' and may be considered your second node. (Node= point on the plant where leaves or side shoots ortiginate)
Now you just wait.

When there are 5 sets of true leaves, you are ready to transplant and fertilize. The 5th set should have 5 or even 7 fingers on it. This plant is no longer a seedling, it is an immature plant in the vegetative stage.

You will need a larger pot to continue growing your little plant, and better soil than those seedling starting mixes! The agway manure, humus, and perlite mix I mentioned above is perfect to use now. If you choose a soilless mix such as promix, you should read this thread:
http://boards.cannabis.com/grow-faqs/148236-why-should-i-re-pot-my-plant-why-not-put-seed-large-pot.html
It will also help explain why you should re-pot frequently.
For pots, one that is 4" in diameter, or about a quart, is the right size for this next growth stage, which will take you right up to the point of sexual maturity and eventual sexing.
Let the soil dry out a little bit. Fill your pot a little more than half way with soil. Place the seedling IN ITS POT into its new home to check the levels- the soil surface will be not more than an inch below the rim of the new pot, and the plant should never be planted deeper than the node that the cotyledons appeared on.
Once you are satisfied with the levels, turn over the seedling and support the stem and soil with your fingers. Tap it sharply and the whole root ball will slide right out into your hand. Place it in the new pot, fill around it with the fresh soil, and give it a light watering with a solution of 1/4 strength grow fertilizer with superthrive at only 1 drop per gallon. The superthrive is optional.

This is now a happy little plant! You can put it back under the shop lights, or under a MH (don't burn it!!).

If you want to pinch your plants, you may do it now. Just pinch off the very freshest bit of the new growth- the smallest set of leaves that are being produced. Side shoot development will now speed up.

[stinkyattic]

Every grower will want to clone at some point. Either you have some crazy plant you want to keep forever, or you just want to cut some time off your grow cycle, this is how to do it without the expense (and frustration when it doesn't work) of a commercial cloning machine.

Materials:
One package of composted tree bark cloning plugs- I use 'Rapid Rooters'. They are very good and have fungicidal properties. You want that, trust me!
One bottle of Dip-N-Grow concentrate- there are lots of cloning solutions, powders, and gels on the market. Don't waste your money, this one is by FAR the best, and it is cheap. Follow the mixing instructions for softwood cuttings. I think the ratio is 1:20.
An exacto knife with a fresh blade
A clean cutting surface- a pad of sticky-notes is GREAT, and I also like to use beer mats, you know, those little bar coasters?
A small pair of sharp scissors
A propagation tray and dome, either new, or if used, wash out and then sterilize with Scrubbing Bubbles foaming bathroom cleanser. Hit every surface. Allow to sit 15 minutes. Rinse it off. Trust me, that stuff was like MADE for growrooms.
Some nursery 6-packs that can hold your rapidrooters upright. Run them through the dishwasher before use, or clean as for the tray and dome
Lighting- I use a single CFL hung right over my dome. You can use your shop lights. Don't use a MH! It's too bright
A spray bottle. The ones that hair polishing products come in, that give the FINEST mist, are ideal. Your girlfriend will be pissed if you dump out the contents though, so ask first.
In the winter, if your house is wicked cold, you also need a seedling heat mat, but if you are above 68 degrees, you are fine- the light gives off a bit of heat too.

Prep your mother. She wants no Nitrogen for the week before taking cuttings, so feed her with a bloom fert and superthrive. About a half hour before use, water her well with plain water.

Pick a shoot that has a growing tip, preferably the most vigorous one on the plant, plus a couple small fans leaves right at the growing tip, and then further down the stem, another node whcih you will be stripping off in a moment.

Make a clean cut with your scissors about an inch below the lower node. Now, working quickly, lay the cutting on your sticky note pad or whatever and cleanly slice off the lowest leaf flush with the stem. Just below that, make a cut at a 45 degree angle and IMMEDIATELY dunk it into the dip n grow. Leave it there for about 10 seconds.
While the cutting is in the dip n grow, take your rapidrooter and slice another hole in the top. The one from the factory is too big for cannabis. You want no air around the cut stem, and good contact with the medium. Just plunge your exacto blade in there. Now gently push the base of the cutting in there. The stripped node must be below the plug surface.
Take your scissors and cut all remaining leaves down to only 1 inch long. You may write the name of the plant right on a leaf with a black sharpie. I use a code 3 characters long to identify strain and plant ID.
Put it in the 6 pack to stand upright, place under the dome, put the dome under the light, and make as many more as you want.
Don't crowd your plants. Air flow now, like at all other life stages, is important.
When you are finished making cuttings, fill your rinsed spray bottle with tap water and thoroughly spray the inside of the clear dome. I don't like to spray the cuttings directly, as water sitting on them can encourage rot.
Keep an eye on them and if they do wilt, mist them.
Also do not let the plugs dry out!!! They should not be sopping wet, but give them a few drops of water every so often.
In about 2 weeks they will be showing upwards growth and be ready to transplant. Treat them as you would a seedling being transplanted for the first time, but a light mist with wilt-pruf or even neem oil helps prevent any shock from going into a drier environment.


I've tried to find it but haven't been able to yet, but can a clone be taken from a grown plant that was originally a clone itself? I wonder if the potency of the finished product would be diminished due to the genetic filtering you'd be inadvertently doing as kind of an unwanted side effect?

Yes, you can clone down indefinitely- the OG Kush lines' original germination date is over 20 years ago. Some subtle changes ( I guess what you are referring to as genetic filtering- actually a simple failure in RNA repair at the cut site) HAVE occurred over this time, but the plant is still potent and vigorous. Always take care not to stress your clones or mothers, and you will continue to see success for a long time to come.


Care of new rooted clones:
Once your cuttings have been rooted and vegging solidly for at least a week, take these steps to ensure that they are strong enough to survive outside the controlled environment in which you've been keeping them.

Their basic needs are pretty simple. Start them on 1/4 strength grow nutes, given in the water or as a foliar feed. For lighting, they can go under a pair of 40w, 4-foot, T12 'cool white' flourescent shop lights, or any flourescent fixture that gives you enough light for the number of plants you have. You may continue vegging them under these lights until it is clear that they are well-established in their pots, and then put them under your HIDs, or outdoors. If they go outdoors, keep them out of direct sunlight for the first couple days, and protect them against rabbits with a chicken wire cage.
They are also ready to be topped, trained, or flowered as a single-cola plant. If you pinch the tops, allow at least 2-3 weeks for recovery before initiating flower. Outdoors, avoid topping after the first week in July. Yield can suffer.

[Forwhat420]

stinky im not new on here but im new to surfing on here.. im getting more respect for you by the hour..

[stinkyattic]

Thank you, thank you.
I'll be here all week with shows at 5:30 and 9:30.
Don't forget to tip your bartender, and check out the buffet in the Tiki Room.
:D

[stinkyattic]

I can't find my collection of bag seed! Blah!
That's what friends are for. And your dealer, if he's an honest dude, is an EXCELLENT seed resource.

[stinkyattic]

I had a bag full of seeds that I kept because I liked the particular high I would get off whatever batch I got the seed from.

This is EXACTLY how to select bag seeds.
IF you don't like the high, don't save the seeds.
If you are indoors, remember to save the couchy indica type stuff separately from the zoomy sativa shit, which will be a pain to grow inside.

[smokinbuds21]

yea you was right this was very very helpfull!!!!!!!!!!

[BeforeYourTime]

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[WeedyBoyWonder]

Hey Stinky, the information I've read from you probably is priceless and is put to much use. Thanks.

[stinkyattic]

Dryin -n- curin?

Well my take on the post-harvest steps is pretty no nonsense; cut at your preferred %cloudy/amber, do a basic trim immediately- chop the fans and any sugar leaves that are sticking out.
Hang or stick in a vase in an area that is dimly lit, cool, and dry- I have been in the bad habit of using drying buds as a centerpiece in my dining room, which is conveniently air conditioned, dim, and dry. lol. And it makes a fantabulous conversation piece when my dinner guests have that flash of dawning realization that the 'bouquet' is a couple zips of drying bud.... :D
Anyway...
When the thing is dry enough that the smallish branches are a little brittle and will crack properly when you bend them, snip the buds off and toss in a glass jar- again, keep it in a cool and dim area- the first couple days, open it long enough to drink your morning coffee, and again long enough in the evening to have your bedtime puff. If it's super humid out, you have to burp in a dehumidified room for it to have any effect. In a few days the moisture will even out throughout the bud.
It's pretty intuitive- the actual timing depends upon your ambient conditions, especially humidity- but even for a first timer you will certainly be able to feel how a bud jarred up feeling dry in the morning will feel moist again by nightfall in a sealed jar, and you just keep repeating the 'burp' until the moisture content is consistent between openings... if that makes any sense?

Oh durr, edit... at some point in here you can also do a more twitchy manicure. I do mine at the end of the burp period, when I have decided the moisture content is where it should be- I go through and snip off any leftover sugar leaves that are sticking out in an unattractive way, and scour for seeds ( I breed and occasionally I do get rogue seeds here and there). Those seeds go to one of my peeps who has been having some fun with them. Yay. And the sugar leaves go into the hash box.

[stinkyattic]

I thought I'd add a list of basic equipment and supplies to get going solidly and on a tight budget.

Lights:
2 Shop lights- 4- foot, T-12, 2-tube fixtures, Home DePot, $8 each, plus 4 Cool White or Kitchen and Bath tubes to put in them
1 HPS 400, about $150 for an inexpensive one. If you go bigger, or have a small space, spend the extra ~50-100 bucks on a quality air-coolable reflector.
1 4" duct booster fan, a power tool replacement cord, and a length of 4" flexible ducting- you will use this to cool your light. The fan needs the cord; black to black, white to white, green to ground, secure with wire nuts. Home DePot, $35 total.

Air handling:
1 24" metal high velocity fan, $25 at the dollar store or walmart, or a couple cheap oscillating fans.
You can spend some more $$$ and buy a proper 6" exhaust designed for a grow if you like. With a small light, it isn't particularly important yet.
Depending upon local weather etc, you may need an a/c unit, which you will also use as a dehumidifier, about $80 at home depot.

Containers and media:
1 seedling starting tray with inserts and dome, $9 for a proper one with a tall dome that you will later need for cloning.
About 10-15 4" square deep quart nursery pots, I get mine free from a nursery dumpster or for 25 cents each if the dumpster is empty, lol.
10 finishing pots, should be about 3 gallons for a light that size. Kitty litter pails work well. Drill holes in the bottom AND up the sides with a 1/2" paddle bit.
1- 40# sack of Agway manure with humus
1- 8 qt sack of perlite
1 bag of farfard seedling starting medium- it's not overferted.
Big rubbermaid tote for mixing and storage

Nutrients and other chemicals:
SuperThrive
Alaska Fish Emulsion
Cornucopia Bloom or PureBlend Pro Bloom
Sweet
Molasses
pH kit that includes liquid indicator, up, and down
Green Light neem concentrate
Bonide Rotenone with Pyrethrins (only use in veg, and only if you get bugs)
I also like to keep Soil Syrup and GH Micro around to fix any problems that arise.

This is literally ALL you need to get going!

Cloning supplies:
RapidRooters
Dip-n-Grow
X-acto knife w/ blades
use the prop tray you already have, but clean it well
Wilt-Pruf

[drheton]

No mention of the pre-harvest flush... I am very curious what your thoughts are. I started an utterly unsuccessful Mythbuster in basic growing about it; perhaps you could weigh in.

[stinkyattic]

I don't do a pre-harvest flush on my compost grown plants. Towards the end of bloom they are already starting to yellow a bit and that's enough for me; I just want to see evidence that they are in fact starving for Nitrogen immediately prior to harvest.

[Mrs. Greenjeans]

I don't do a pre-harvest flush on my compost grown plants. Towards the end of bloom they are already starting to yellow a bit and that's enough for me; I just want to see evidence that they are in fact starving for Nitrogen immediately prior to harvest.

I don't pre harvest flush anymore. First of all, I make sure my soil mix is rich enough that I really don't use much in the way of additional ferts or supplements that will build up in the plant. Second, it's a pain in the ass with my set up. I merely stop feeding them and give them only plain water or molasses water about 3 weeks before harvest. Then I let them dry and cure properly. No nitro/chemical taste. This last batch tastes like lemon. Yummy. I've gotten LOTS of compliments on the taste of my herb.

[SMOKIN A WHILE]

Stinky thanks for the paper towel alternative. I like the idea of putting the sprout in a good sized container that the lights won't dry out.

[saltrock1.]

Hey attic,
Quick question do you want to do the cloning at the begining of your light cycle when your light turns on or better to leave em in the dark for a couple of hours.

Thanks
SALT

[stinkyattic]

I keep my moms under 24h of light, saltrock. So I can't really answer that. I don't know how cloning at the start of the light cycle would affect end results.

I'm cleaning up this thread and moving all the posts pertaining to peoples' individual problems rather to a general technique question to new threads...

[Markass]

This could be useful as far as harvesting goes..

[stinkyattic]

Markass- yeah that's very helpful, thanks. We get that question a lot.

Clock- I moved your question to its own thread where I'm sure more veteran growers will see it.

[KayaKing]

WOW - thanks again Stinky Attic, some serious knowledge dropping!
Awesome Post, keep 'em coming!
:thumbsup:

[jackforest]

well, I'm somewhat new to the forum but am now an addicted daily user. Of course, Ive grown on to the understanding you are the guru around these parts. It was very easy to build a respect for you with all of your knowledge to share. However, I just had to note this. You never fail to be clear, concise, and thorough. Yet, I have no clue where this came from and It gave me quite the chuckle

"...as are the nursery 6-packs that fucking petunias come in"

good show buddy haha

[stinkyattic]

That is a rare and highly sought-after variety of petunia that grows wild in Cancun, Ft. Lauderdale, and a few other spring break destinations. It is the first plant that has been actually documented mimicking human behaviour...

[jangel]

:D STINKY ATTIC

"...as are the nursery 6-packs that fucking petunias come in" ".......It is the first plant that has been actually documented mimicking human behaviour..."
......film at 11....DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR STUDENT IS DOING??

LOL!!! You crack me up...:D:D:D

This is a great resource Stinky. Just what I have been looking for. I have cut and pasted it into hard copy for a shopping list. I cannot find a resource for getting the ferts you mention here in Canada. I CAN find the Fox Farm line and was thinking of trying a kit, which they have a selection of. What do you recommend as far as a good complimentary feeding schedule to take the babies right through flower? I have read in some of your threads you like this line. Right now I am using organics but want a complete system that works together. Thanks for your time, and may I say your work is exemplery. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!:smokin:

[stinkyattic]

Thank YOU!
Wow that must have been an OLD thread lol! I haven't used that FF in quite a while!
I actually haven't done a full formal grow with FoxFarm as it is intended to be used, but they should have a feeding schedule posted somewhere. I have one in hard copy that a friend who grows with it printed for me, but seem to have filed it somewhere. He is pulling EXCELLENT numbers with the stuff and his product is very tasty, so who can complain? :D

You should be able to get other types of complete systems in Canada too- check out Canna, Advanced Nutrients, and Botanicare as 3 other companies that have nice complete 'systems'.

[jangel]

Thank you muchly. So what I gather, being a n00b is that any program recommended for flowering plants is benificial for pot as long as the ph is correct?:wtf: I mean, being a novice in this regard, the companies are NOT going to say "hey, buy this to grow great dank!" Thanks stinkster!
life,
J-angel;)

[stinkyattic]

I think that one of the major pot-fert manufacturers has a schedule posted for commercial melon production, lol.

It's usually pretty obvious which products were developed with cannabis growers in mind- go for those over a general purpose house or garden plant food and yes, keep your pH correct for your method.

I'm probably going to go back and clean up this thread soon as it's meant to be a tutorial rather than a discussion.

[jangel]

NP. Thanks for your time. I know ferts are one place a n00b gets lost, I know I do.
Life,
j-angel :thumbsup:

[b0n3ZA]

Excellent thread stinky. Your advice on cloning will be put to good use soon :)
I just have a question... Can I clone a plant that is currently in flower (5 weeks, outdoor) ?

[andoweed]

Thanks for all the info stinky. I will be using your guide as a bible for my next grow.

Do you know what type of manure is used in the Agway brand? I found "Garden Pro 0.5-0.5-0.5 Composted Manure and Humus" at Lowe's for $1.98 per 40lb bag. The ingredients are listed as "Natural soil products and composted poultry manure." I read on another site that the nutrients in poultry manure are "hot" and quick release as opposed to the nutrients in cow manure which are "cold" and slow release. I just want to make sure that the soil I make is as close to your recommendation as possible.

[stinkyattic]

Boneza- Yes, but it's very difficult since you will have to be EXTRA careful of mold and the plant ALSO has to reveg- you may see lower survival rates and plants that don't do much besides just sit there for the first month or 2. Don't take cuttings high on the plant, as this is stressful to the flowering mother and may reduce yield or cause herms. I usually say week 2 is the last time in flower that it's even worthwhile to try to take a cutting.

Andoweed- I BELIEVE it's cow manure but I'm not 100% certain. The NPK on the bag is actually the same as what you found, and since you should be using seedling mix for plants less than 3-4 weeks old anyway, I think you should be okay. Just keep an eye out for tip burn, and start your fertilizer weaker than recommended and work up. I highly recommend reading the 'continuous canopy' sticky in Basic as well for more hints about your soil environment.
Good luck!

[Hawaiian Bud]

stinkyattic, I'm curious. Is all your growing limited to inside? I live in Puna District of the Big Island. For me I wouldn't consider even growing inside. One, because of the semi perfect weather I have here. Two, I live in an area with the highest electrical rates in America. My monthly electrical bill is anywhere in the neighborhood of $230. 00 a month to $400.00 for a family of four! Can you imagine the bill if I had grow lights going too?

Besides, I have heard to many stories of people getting busted because their electrical bill jumped up so high because of "grow lights", and then elecric company turns client over to DEA:wtf:

I was wondering if you guys get 'Leaf Miners' hwere you're at on your plants at all? If you do what remedy do you have for these buggars?

mahalo

Hawaiian Bud

[stinkyattic]

Hello Hawaiian Bud- Aloha!

My cannabis growing IS limited to indoors because the idea of growing outside gimme da jibblies! I am really a bit paranoid about bopping around the woods with fertilizer and plants, especially in an area where it seems everyone else is doing the same thing- I'm as afraid of meeting up with the thieves taking my crop in the middle of the woods in the dim hours of early morning as I am of the cops. At least the cops just toss ya in jail...

I'll be running some outdoor plants this year seriously for the first time, and plan to keep it at a very modest scale. We shall see.

But I grow other plants outside, and we have leaf miners here in New England too. They are a different genus I think but do similar damage. I have problems with the little shits munching my gladiolus leaves every time I try to grow them. Try treating your plants with a light mist of neem oil, re-applied after a rainstorm, and stopping use about 3 weeks from harvest. Try to get as little as possible on the buds, even when they are very small. The smell is wretched.

If you pay your bill on time, the electrical provider would rather have your increased business than turn you over to the DEA. Of course, be conservative, and only allow yourself 1000 extra watts per bedroom that your home or apartment is taxed at, and try to keep other appliances turned off when not in use. Don't allow any obvious plant light leaks to be visible from outside your home.

[hatch]

Stinky,HYWHT'SUP??!!

This TRICH is for you:pimp::pimp::pimp:

[stinkyattic]

All right! Hatch, one of our resident Southern Gentlemen, comin' through with da macros!!!
I'm going to use these above pics ^^^ to illustrate the ripeness test.
You guys can DEFINITELY see the trichomes in the last picture. Look at how each one is like a perfect droplet of dew on a little glass stem. When your plants are ready to harvest, the clear appearance they have in that picture goes away and first gets CLOUDY or MILKY, and then some of them will turn AMBER. When all are milky and some are amber (10% or more depending upon how much you want to be stuck to the sofa), you can chop.
The pic #2 shows the pistils, or HAIRS, that start turning brown well before harvest.

[heveysmoker]

hey hows it going? i was reading you forums and seen the part about seeding in soil i was just wondering if you knew of any ways to tell if your plants are male or female while still in a vegg state. (for mothers) any info would help thanks :)

[SnSstealth]

heavy...you may start to get some pre flowers a week or two before onset...but its hard to tell the differance at that stage.....
hawaii....LEDs draw VERY little power;)
:smokebong:
whiskeytango

[kraloth]

hey stinky umm im just starting my first grow only grow 4 plants after sexing (unless i dont get that many females) at the moment i am planning on having a grow box about 4ft by 3 ft by 5 ft tall using a 600 hps maby 800 what do you think?

also umm what kind of a yield could i expect off this kinda setup i only realy need to tide me and my friend over

any help would be massivly appreciated cheers:)

[bbblue]

My oh my, this seems like a lot for a beginner trying to grow with parents that would not want it. Good guide for when I get older though. I'll have to improvise until then...:(

[Mississippi Steve]

So....now the questions is... what is the average time between clear, cloudy, amber, and.... ??

[stinkyattic]

Good question, Steve!
I would say that about two weeks elapse bewteen when I start seeing the first color change to when I like to harvest. It will depend on a few factors though, so give yourself a window when you will be able to check on the plants' progress every day or 2 approaching your anticipated harvest time.

[Raftastic]

Stinky i have a simple question that's sooo simple i have no idea how to find the bloody answer...

I put my plants onto 12/12 2 days ago,they were eating CHEMPAK No2 HNF 25+15+15 and they thrived but now (after hours of searching) i'd like to know what you'd advise me to move them onto for the Flowering stage...I was thinking of using the CHEMPAK No4 which is 15+15+30 and realy after all this waffling would like to hear what you'd use..Edit:Use as in ?+?+? (Is is called the NPK table ? Nitrogen/Phosphate/Potash)

Thanks in advance..

[stinkyattic]

Okay. The VEG fert has a lot of N, the first number, because plants growing lots of shoots and leaves need plenty of Nitrogen compared to other components. They still need Phosphorous (P, second number) for healthy roots and Potassium (K, last number) for a strong immune system.
When you switch to flower, you want to suppress the plant's ability to make lots of leaves and chlorophyll, and so you cut the N number down by at least half. If you start with a veg fert that has N=10, go to a flower fert with N=5 or less. Then give them extra P and K, whcih they need for sexual reproduction.
Your proposed bloom fert would have a little too much N, proportionally, and not enough P. Is there another one available with a higher MIDDLE number?

[Raftastic]

No it looks like that's got the best low to high ratio out of them all,it's driving me nuts trying to find the right one,it's not like i can walk into the garden center and ask the dude,which i did infact do to get the Number 2 & that wasn't pretty he looked at me like i was from outa space and didnt have a bloody clue,i only managed to get it because i spotted it on my way out
(all after half an hour of him shaking his head and showing me every bloody fert but the one i wanted and bought)

[Raftastic]

I've found something but again have no idea how to use it..
EDIT: i know how to use it,it's just in a smaller pot...(it's been a long smokey night):jointsmile:

It's the Chempak Bonsia Tree Fertilizer -- 10-30-30

Chempak Bonsai Tree Fertiliser 100g [CHEMPBON12] at www.CapitalGardens.co.uk (http://www.capitalgardens.co.uk/v3/bonsai-tree-fertiliser-p-6226.html?osCsid=79d7a9aeadf4b0381e555c646c19a552)

I think i've found what i need but would still like to know your opinion (sorry but i guess this is what happens when you're the sites go2guy/gal)

Thanks for your time...

[Raftastic]

Sorry folks one more post and i will sleep happy...

Stinky i've found another Chempak No8 it's 12.5-25-25,so depending on your advice i'll give the Bonsai or Number 8 a go...

[stinkyattic]

I think No. 8 for the win, but make sure that it's intended for soil if you grow soil, or hydro if you grow hydro- they are NOT interchangeable without checking and usually adjusting the pH because of the target buffering ranges in quality fertilizers.

[Raftastic]

Thankyou for your time Stinks,now i have my ferts down i am a very happy man,for those in the UK Chempak is easy to find and 800g makes over 2000litres of food at a cost of £3.50/£4.40...

I'm open to other fert ideas that i can get hold of in the uk..

[fishens]

I found this a couple of pages back so i am moving it up. Excellent info Stinky...My hat is off to you, as always THANK YOU!!!

[fishens]

O.K. this is a stoner moment. I had done a search for clones and this post by Stinky came up a couple of pages into it. of course didn't realize it was a sticky somewhere else. But the Thanks still stands Stinky.

[illnillinois]

Whats a good distance to keep the lights from the plants??

[stinkyattic]

Whats a good distance to keep the lights from the plants??
1-4" for tube flouros- within that range, the T12s should be CLOSEST and the T5s you can have a little further if you have a bank of a couple of them or more.

CFLs should be as close as possible without seeing signs of heat stress or physical burns on the leaves.

HIDs depend on the type of hood and the bulb size. You will get closer with a smaller bulb, an air-cooled hood, a cooltube, and by addition of a light mover. With a larger bulb, a standard reflector, or a fixed light position you will have to stay further.

Get as close as you can before you see leaf edge curl, then raise the lights until it stops.

[Raftastic]

Stinky,what are the advantages (+) of keeping your plants on a 24/0 as oppose to a 18/6 ?

In my mind it's to do with keeping the plants smaller (height) but does it effect the bushyness & end product ?

Also would i keep them on 24/0 right up until flowering & then do you put them straight onto a 12/12 ? I only ask because i usualy go for 18/6 then 12/12,but after reading that you use 24/0 my brain is telling me to evolve and play follow my leader...

p.s. Those nutes i bought are the dogs bollocks,alomst as good as this thread as it stops the uneducated amongst us from having to start new threads for what some would call newbie topics.

[stinkyattic]

Okay that's a good question. I've answered it elsewhere, but it should be included in this thread. IT depends partially on personal preference and grow style, but my reasons are:
-Very easy to stabilize temps when heat from your lights is not a variable over time
-I can visit them at any time, day or night, without fear of stress
-No timers to buy or have fail on ya
-Going from 24/0 to 12/12 is a big heads up to the plant FLOWER NOW! as it is the first time it has ever seen darnkess. That's why I go directly, with no intermediate step.
Also, a slick trick for the outdoor crowd is to keep plants on 24/0 until August 1 and then put them outside. They will begin to flower immediately seeing darkness for the first time, and finish before frost.

[Raftastic]

Thanks but i have 1 more.

Does 24/0 effect the growth & if so how (what should i expect) ?

I weill take advantage of the sunlight during the daytime and revert to the lights after T

[stinkyattic]

I haven't noticed a difference personally. Many growers will tell you that they give some darkness to enhance root growth. As a variable, there are more important ones, though, so you should use whichever is convenient for you.

[Raftastic]

I only ask because i was told that 24/0 would lead to the stems being less bulky and stretching & the whole reason for me using 24/0 was to try and grow shorter plants with more bulk.


Was i told wrong & also is my thinking bollocks (wrong) if my take on it is wrong then i'll revert back to 18/6 so long as it wont harm them (they're only week old seedlings)

[stinkyattic]

That may be true; I don't know actually. With the seedlings you have going already, I would at least keep them under whatever light schedule you are already on until they become sexually mature, since changes are a source of potential stress.
If you plan to continue working with the same strain, it might be worth doing a side-by-side comparison with a few identical clones off the same mom, half on 24-0 and half on 18-6, to see how each group reacts, and take the result that you believe to be better and run like that in the future.

[Diplomat]

quick question if I may, so please if anyone knows the answer be my guest...

After placing germinated seeds in small containers to sprout, do you immediately have light beaming on the soil surface? Or are you supposed to wait until they sprout and rather put them in a dark - warm place until they pop, then turn the lights on? I have heard both ways, which one correct? :)

Also is suran wrap on top a good idea in the pre-sprouting phase?


Thx

[Raftastic]

quick question if I may, so please if anyone knows the answer be my guest...

After placing germinated seeds in small containers to sprout, do you immediately have light beaming on the soil surface? Or are you supposed to wait until they sprout and rather put them in a dark - warm place until they pop, then turn the lights on? I have heard both ways, which one correct? :)

Also is suran wrap on top a good idea in the pre-sprouting phase?


Thx

Edit: Totaly read your post wrong,you put them straight under the lights mate,if you have small pots you should take advantage of the Sun and stick them on your window ledge.

[Diplomat]

Thanks for the reply, I now have them under sunlight so i'm hoping that should do the trick. Seems I have been struggling just to get the damn things to sprout, this is now my second batch after a first failed attempt. I'm also beginning to think im planting them to deep(1 inch)... just another thought. :jointsmile:

How about that suran wrap? Good to cover the pots with or no?

Also: Would MG Potting Soil be too strong for a young seedling? That's what i'm using ( couldn't find starter soul )

Thanks for the input!

[stinkyattic]

Seeds do not need any light until they break the soil surface.
Direct sun will dry out the soil faster, and if you don't keep on top of it, can potentially dry out the vulnerable sprout.
Saran wrap is not a good idea. You need air flow over the soil surface, or you will get fungus.

[Mr.GoodMorning02]

Seeds do not need any light until they break the soil surface.
Direct sun will dry out the soil faster, and if you don't keep on top of it, can potentially dry out the vulnerable sprout.

I had a nice seedling that i put into a shady area but after the heat wave came through even with wet soil and watering after the 94 degree day, the lil guy burnt up without a fight. learned my lesson :thumbsup:

[Raftastic]

I had a nice seedling that i put into a shady area but after the heat wave came through even with wet soil and watering after the 94 degree day, the lil guy burnt up without a fight. learned my lesson :thumbsup:

Yeah well 94d's in England this time of year just aint gonna happen :) i never put my seedling outside i just stick them on the window ledge.


Thanks for the reply, I now have them under sunlight so i'm hoping that should do the trick. Seems I have been struggling just to get the damn things to sprout, this is now my second batch after a first failed attempt. I'm also beginning to think im planting them to deep(1 inch)... just another thought. :jointsmile:

How about that suran wrap? Good to cover the pots with or no?

Also: Would MG Potting Soil be too strong for a young seedling? That's what i'm using ( couldn't find starter soul )

Thanks for the input!

That's too deep mate,go back the the start of the thread and look for Stinkys post on seedlings,everything you need to know to get started is in this thread & Stinky is always forthcoming answering any queries you have...

1/8th of and inch is as deep as they need.

[hudson88]

Hey stinky hope all is good,

I've got a question, I'm using bio bizz grow and bloom. i upped the nutes throughout flowering to a max of 3ml grow and 8ml bloom per litre at around 5 weeks. I'm just entering the 8th week of flowering and i'm feeding 1ml grow and 5ml bloom. I was intending to drop to around 1ml grow and 3ml bloom then do a flush for a couple of days. Does the backing off of my nutes sound ok or should i be lowering the bloom more or eliminating grow sooner etc? Have you got any tips or advice for feeding?

Thanks!

[stinkyattic]

Hey Hudson,
I think in a situation like you are in, even if you decide to run some 'grow' into flower (using a 3-part nute for example), a week before you flush, you should stop using it altogether anyway. I would not use even a low level of 'grow' nute within 2 weeks of harvest, but you can keep giving 'bloom' at full strength right until the flush starts. You should be able to see the leaves getting paler and slightly yellower after a few days of heavy flushing. That is desirable.

[hudson88]

Cool, i was thinking along those lines but would of probably kept a low dose of grow till the flush, i'll stop it right away tho, pretty sure i'm no more than 2 weeks from harvest.

I've been reading too many grow logs and getting some conflicting advice on the subject so needed some clarification from the master!

Thanks stinky, much appreciated ;)

[Blaze87]

so i read your guide and i find it VERY useful. one thing i have a concern about though is i planted a stress seed and a kush seed. the stress plant is about 3 inches tall in a pot 7 inches tall and 7 1/2 inches wide. i know now that because of this the plant is concentrating on growing its roots instead of its leaves. my question is, can i transplant it to a smaller plant or just let it grow there? the stem is pretty thin but the leaves look healthy now that its been growing for 3 weeks. (just fyi) my kush plant is about an inch and a half tall after about a week in a pot 6 inches tall and 7 1/2 wide

[stinkyattic]

Don't try to put a plant in a smaller pot unless it is n emergency. If it looks healthy, leave it be. When you say 'stress seed' are you meaning a bag seed that came from a hermi pollination in a stressed grow environment?

[Kiviaa]

Do smaller plants bud faster slower or the same as taller plants


hey stinky were from the same state hell yea i live near the rhode island border near 495. what area u come from?

[Blaze87]

lol actually im not a 100% sure what stress really is, all i know is that on the streets its cheaper and weaker than kush or chronic. usually the buds are browner and more dense. we call it "poor smoker's weed". i planted it just for the hell of it cause im a first time grower and i just wanted to practice with it. then i got that kush seed (grandaddy i think) about a week later. so im hoping that at least ONE of them is a female. your guess at what a stress seed is sounds realistic though.

[Raftastic]

At what stage is it ok to add molasses ?

[stinkyattic]

Kiviia- Smaller plants bud exactly the same speed as taller ones, assuming that they are all sexually mature. After that point, the timing is all the same. If you flower early, before maturity, smaller plants will take longer to START budding, but will then finihs the same speed.
I'm somewhere along the CT river valley ;) It's nice out here.

Raftastic- You can start adding molasses at any time after you start feeding real fertilizer, but as with anything, start WEAK and work up gradually. You don't need a ton of sugar to make a ton of difference. Just a tablespoon or so in a full gallon of water is plenty! Remember, in veg, it is not quite so aggressively used, and the primary way you want to give carbon is giving a LOT of CO2 by allowing constant air flow or even injecting it from a tank. In flower, that sugar added to the fertilizer is going to help bulk up your buds and help them produce all sorts of sticky goodness.

[stinkyattic]

Accurately estimating your electrical usage from an indoor grow:

Take your total watts. It helps to group items on the same timer together.
Take the number of hours per day you are running each group of items.
Calculate the percentage of the time each group is turned on.
Multiply by that % figure to get an average hourly watt usage, then by 24 to find total daily watt usage for each group.
Add the value for all groups together.
Multiply by the number of days in your billing cycle (one month).
That is your WATT HOURS per month.
Divide by 1000.
That is your kwh per month.
Multiply by your charge per kwh.
That is your bill.

Example:
A grower has a 1000 watt flower room on 12/12, a 400 watt veg room on 18/6, a 150 watt clone chamber on 24/0, a 500 watt air conditioner running all the time, and a blower on each room that draws 20 watts and is on only when the lights are on. (this is just an example mind you)

Group 1 is the shit that is always on:
-a/c @500w
-20w blower for clone room
-150w clone chamber lights
Your daily draw is all of that, straight. 670w x 24 = 16,080 watt hours per day used

Group 2 is the 18/6 area:
-20w blower
-400w light
18 is 75% of 24 so .75 x 420 gives the total daily draw for that room: 315 watts x 24 = 7,560

Group 3 is the flower room on 12/12:
-1000w light
-20w blower
They are on 50% of the time and 1020 x 0.5= 510w, x 24= 12,240

Add all that together:
12,240
7,560
16,080
______+
35,880

That's 35.88 kilowatt hours per day, and there are 30 days in your cycle, so 1076.4 kwh per month.

Say your charge per kilowatt hour is $0.23

Your growroom will cost you $247.57 per month to operate.
Add 10% for small shit like pumps and oscillating fans.

[MaryLane]

Stinky rocks and we all know it.



I would like to add a bit of advice:

Don't pay too much attention to your plants! If your numbers are right (pH, EC, temperature, light, circulation), you won't have much work to do. Don't stare at your plants trying to find something to fix!

[McToker]

Ms. Stinkyattic, I didn't intend to lurk so long but I've been busy absorbing all the info on the site.

We, my wife and I, are currently vegging 8 healthy babies and one freak of nature. The freak has leaves the size of my hand.

Today we added some molasses to one of the plants to make sure there would be no ill effects before treating the remaining plants. I know you said not to be as aggressive during veg but, how often should I add the molasses?

In case it matters, we are using 6500k CFL's for vegging. We'll switch to 2700K CFL's for flower. Soil is MG because it's all I could find. I just ordered some Pure Blend Pro Grow, Flower and some Sweet. We'll be transferring all to a Homebox as soon as it arrives.

How often should I add nutes?

Thanks to you and all the other contributers for the detailed info and the inspiration.

McT

[stinkyattic]

I like to give nutes for three waterings in a row, and then just water really heavy. You will judge how often that is by how fast your plants use up their water. IF they are growing fast and feeding heavy, they will get ferted more often. If they are growing slowly and you find that you only have to water ~3x/week, then that is also how often to fert them.
Go easy on molasses too- a tablespoon in a gallon will do the trick.

[McToker]

Thank you. That's a great help. I think all the info is finally starting to sink in.

[optixx]

This Thread could help any grower from new to experienced. Its trial and error

Thanks So much for quick feedback stinky

[xRedDUBdeRx]

Thanks so much for the info. stinky. It helps so much being a first time grower. I spent about 2 hours re-writing what you had posted in ALL your posts in shorter terms for me to remember so I can refer to that paper while doing the processes. I am currently germinating the seeds I have recieved. I will try growing my first two plants as soon as I see my first root. I just would like to know when the cannibis 'stinch' starts to smell, and how bad will it smell in the house?

Thanks in advance.

[stinkyattic]

Odor! woo hoo.

Stink of your plants depends TOTALLY on strain and conditions. Some strains will stink up a whole area from the time they are still quite small, while others (sold as 'low-odor' if you use the searhc function in seed vendor site queries) can go right through flower with very little detectable odor, or even an odor fairly UNLIKE cannabis.

Also, your temperature and nute regime play a part in this.

A good rule to follow is you DEFINITELY need odor control in flower if you are trying to grow even somewhat stealth, and the scale of the odor control and the scale of your LIGHTS should match. If it's a super stinky strain, go overkill on smell control. You get used to it being around it all the time; the postman does not.

I had a frightening moment a while back pulling up to my house on a day when the air was still and smelling the stank BEFORE I GOT OUT OF MY CAR. You can bet your buns I ran out and bought a better blower and filter THAT EVENING!!! lol

[xRedDUBdeRx]

Ok I just bought a bathroom filter that sticks on the wall but I bought the most expensive one at lowes (79.99)

Although it is nto illegal to grow cannibis in California, I do have a landlord who checks up on the house every 2 months or so? Should this work fine?

Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it =] Also, I posted on how much I should water from very beginning to very end if you could enlighten me a bit on that. I would appreciate your knowledge.

Thanks man

[stinkyattic]

Sitck on bathroom deodorizers aren't the sort of filter you'll need- a carbon filter such as an odor sok or a rigid model are correct for a grow of more than a plant or 2.

If your landlord knows, he can evict you because it's still FEDERALLY illegal in all states and the Feds can actually make a motion to seize property owned by someone who has knowledge of illegal activities on the premises.

Watering depends on your lights, soil type, size, and vigor of the plant.

And that's 'woman' ;)

Happy harvestin.

[stinkyattic]

Haha Billionfold, I had to post a space-holder to edit an old post and clarify something. Even mods can't edit posts, but using the 'merge' function we can make changes to either post to be merged.
Man you are on top of things this afternoon! :D

Edit:
Yes, and you will all be quizzed on this stuff at the end of the season! Study!

[DasPachy]

So stinky, if I decide to use the humus & manure + perlite, can I start my seedlings in this? Also, if I plan to LST, what should my re-potting schedule look like?

[stinkyattic]

I think it says in the guide DON'T use it for seedlings. Use a seedling mix. It's got too much fertilizer in it, being manure and all...
If you are training your plants, your SCHEDULE shoudl be the same but for pot size, instead of 'a gallon per foot' it is more like 'a gallon per foot OF MAIN STEM' so you have to estimate how bushy the plant is too.

[DasPachy]

At what stages of growth should I be repotting? Also, although I know it's going to vary on conditions, do you have an guidelines for watering? I have a friend that swears by a "water meter", any opinions on this? Thanks!

[stinkyattic]

Repotting guidelines are linked in the first page of this thread and stickied at the top of Basic under 'continuous canopy'.
Watering is also explained above... water when the pots feel light.
Water meters are pointless. You can determine the same thing by picking up your pot.

[kloud012]

yo bro i have a couple questions do u think u could help me out bro im in beginning of 5th week flower can u check it

[DasPachy]

I picked up some Fafard's Professional Potting Mix (says it's okay for seedlings), but the only Perlite i could find was the Miracle-Gro kind that's fertilized - is there anything I should do to make sure this doesn't burn my seedlings?

[stinkyattic]

The MG brand perlite is still just plain perlite unless the package lists NPK values on the back, and I've never seen a ferted perlite. Should be fine.
Kloud, you need to start your own thread. This is a general information sticky.

[Mr.GoodMorning02]

man, people really keep you busy stinky. you're a true saint on this site. i do have a question though. you've mentioned in posts about PMing someone. I thought this site didn't have that function but maybe I'm wrong. Explanation? Thanks in advance hun :)


morning

[stinkyattic]

The mods have a pm function that we can use to get info to members 'off the record'. To reply, you have to either use the rep system, the email addys we have linked in our sigs/profiles (same board rules apply of course, since it is our 'business' address haha), or by making a thread in 'feedback'.

[bigworm1922]

Hey Stinky can you tell us if we can get any of the nutrient and chemicals you list at HD, Lowes,or Ace. Also can you point us to a good site that has good prices on them?

[Mr.GoodMorning02]

oh alright...thank you for the explanation. will this site one day have pm applications for all users? such as icmag

[stinkyattic]

No, and chat is gone for the forseeable future as well. The site cannot be responsible for misuse of the pm system (hookups, seed sales, etc.).
These types of questions belong on the main feedback page, thanks! Hope that helps at least.

[NoDrugs4Me]

Stinky...

WILL YOU MAKE ME THE HAPPIEST MAN ON EARTH AND MARRY ME???

:thumbsup:

You're the QUEEN!

[BigLeagueJew]

Thanks StinkyAttic, This post has taught me tons of info and saved me from buying a book or searching the internet all day. Happy Growing:rastasmoke:

[SkoomaHead08]

This was really helpful. Thanks:jointsmile:

[bitemybud]

Pest control:
You may encounter pests in your grow at some point, thrips and two-spotted mites being the most destructive, but prevention is simple. The oil of the Indian neem tree, has, among others, the property of being EXTREMELY distasteful to common garden pests. A spray made of one teaspoon Neem concentrate (Green Light brand is OMRI listed for organic farming) per quart spray bottle, with lukewarm water and a drop or 2 of dish soap, makes an effective (but smelly!) preventative spray. Trust me, use the neem. You don't want mites. They are pure evil. Mist lightly once or twice a week, never to the point of runoff, as overapplication CAN suffocate the plants. You will see that the neem has adhered when after a few applications your plants take on a more healthy, glossy appearance. Never apply neem after the 3rd week of flower, as it can leave distasteful residues on your buds. If pests DO appear, there are several options at the grow shop. I prefer bug bombs, set off 4 days apart, to kill pests. Pyrethrin sprays are also wonderful and very safe to use. Again, allow plenty of time before harvest when you are using chemicals on your plants. If you have an insect problem, do NOT flower until you are confident that it is under control.As a preventitive measure. This sounds good.
Some folks night want to know that if you have the unfortunate luck to be infested, You need a full drenching application of neem oil. Then; You are not done. You have to repeat the process every 10-14 days for 2-3 weeks in order to kill the newborn from eggs in your medium. this stops the reproductive process.

Also; If you have to spray neem oil on your plants in flower. You can simple give them a shower before harvest; As attested in J. Cervantes Book.
5 Easy Gardens.