Humidity

[Nightcrewman]

Hi just how important is humidity to the end result. we are struggling to keep humidity in the grow tent up its normaly about 50% but I assume this is too low. Could this be the reason our crop weight has been so bad lately.
The tent is 6X4X6 ft and the temprature is around 75 degrees. we have 5 plants in at the moment
Any advice welcome

NCM

[Zandor]

50% is fine for most people. If you have AC and a closed room with CO² then more RH is great.

As you finish the last few weeks you need to get it down too that is to high for flower. To finish you should be aroud 25% - 30% and that will keep mold from getting a hold.

You need to have plenty of fresh air moving around your plants at all times.

But I would say you lower then expected yield may be something else.

What nutrients are you feeding them?

What supplements are you using?

What type of water?

How long do you veg them before you switch to 12/12?

What type of lights are you using?

You may want to check out my show if you are having problems the odds are in your favor that I already address most of your questions.

[Nightcrewman]

50% is fine for most people. If you have AC and a closed room with CO² then more RH is great.

As you finish the last few weeks you need to get it down too that is to high for flower. To finish you should be aroud 25% - 30% and that will keep mold from getting a hold.

You need to have plenty of fresh air moving around your plants at all times.

But I would say you lower then expected yield may be something else.

What nutrients are you feeding them?

What supplements are you using?

What type of water?

How long do you veg them before you switch to 12/12?

What type of lights are you using?

You may want to check out my show if you are having problems the odds are in your favor that I already address most of your questions.

Hi Zandor thanks for reply

How we are growing and what we are using.

We are using two 400w hps lights in a plastic green house approx 6ft by 4.5ft. the greenhouse is lined with mylar. The door is left open all day as they get too hot otherwise, generally sit at about 76 degrees. We have two bathroom fans cut into the roof to take away the hot air and an oscillating fan blowing on them when the lights are on.

I take my own cuttings, bring them on in an incubator and once roots are established (approx 2 weeks) move them into hydroponics with rockwool cubes giving them a feed level of 6 for the first week then up to 18 and a ph level of 5.5 to 6.2 with it as near to 5.8 as I can get and 18 hrs of light . this stage lasts about 3 weeks.they are fed with ionic grow at this stage and reach approx 2.5 â?? 3 ft.

I then move them onto 12 hrs of light and feed them on ionic bloom (though changed to vega flours this time) and also using the ionic boost during this stage. I have an air stone in with them at this stage to add air to the roots.

I use tap water in my hydroponics, use the gro tanks with water washing over them 24/7.



Cheers NCM

[Zandor]

What brand of nutrients are you using?

Try to move your air in to a lower point, You will find cooler air closer to the ground then you would the roof line. Running lights in the night with cooler nights it also an option. Increase the size of your exhaust fan and move more air out faster that will help too.

Is your light hood air cooled? If not that is the one change you can make to bring the temp down quick.

Do you pre Ph your rock wool before you use it?

if your humidity gets to high you risk white powder mold so keep an eye out and make sure you have plenty of air movement around your plants.

How is your tap water? What is the starting PPM? Do you let it sit out to evaporate the chlorine for 24 hours before you use it?

What about supplements?

Do you use Cal Mag Plus if not you should it's a great supplement for Hydroponics and helps keep plants healthy. If you still have heat issues there are some products you can use to help plants deal with stress better.

[Nightcrewman]

thnaks for reply, heres answering your questions.

Lights at night not a option here.

yes we do ph/feed level rockwool for 24hrs before using.

our tap water is soft. presume by ppm you mean the feed wand? our levels dont show on wand with just tap water, (meter starts at 4) we make up to 18.

no we dont sit water for 24 hrs but will do from now on

dont use supplements, at a quick net scan cal mag plus comes in different strengths - what strength do you recommend?

currently grow with ionic grow ( black bottle) and flower with vega fleur ( 2 part liquid).

as we say any hints much appreciated

am downloading some of the hydroponics lessons to watch and hopefully learn a lot.

[Nightcrewman]

are the grow reports avaiable in text format for reading? if not is it a consideration for you?

[mattmao]

the only thing i can sugest is to get rid of the ionic,ive used and was not impressed i also sufferd a drop in yield! so i now use advanced nutrients for the veg and then canna aqua flores for bloom with a little pk 13-14 when needed,i'm now getting the consistency in growth and yield back.cant be certain but i put my problems to the feeds.good luck mate.

[home.grower]

Everything Zandor said basically.

If your plants are healthy but simply not putting on the girth and weight that your expect then there are a few things to change:

1. more lighting
2. more air flow
3. more ammendments
4. change nutes altogether
5. etc

I've tried a small variety of nute brands and Advanced Nutes work best for me. I use AN - Mother Earth Super Tea Grow & Bloom; Sensi Bloom & Grow; Barricade; F1; H2; Big Bud; Overdrive; CarboLoad; and Voodoo Juice in the right proportions and quantities.

I wouldn't trade Advanced Nutes for anything else. Neither would I trade 3kW of HPS lighing for 125W of floro; nor a 10" acustic exhaust for a bathroom fan. Over time I've found that if you want the best from your girls then you have to create for them the ultimate environment, and then you must give them all the love and attention they need.

I used to use PK boost and I suppose it was orite, but the AN combinations have been developed especially for weed. It doesn't take away any guess work as one still has to decide whether or not they really think their plants really need the ammendment that AN suggests... I'm waffling, but don't skimp on love, thats the main additive for a bumber harvest and no shop will sell it to you.

[home.grower]

... gee it was supposed to be about humidity and not food...

I like low humidity thoughout. Copius resin production and narrow slender leaves. The narrow leaves allow for greater light penetration.

High humidity produces broad leaves and a dense canopy. Lower humidity has shown earlier resin production on my previous crops than with high humidity.

Low humidity = Less chance of mold - good for strains like sensi star that have very compact buds and develop mold if not carefully monitored.

I don't think humidity has affected the quantity of my overall yeild ever, besides losses from moldy colas which actually hurts when one has to throw prime cuts on the log burner. The Quality is affected though, but that is just my opinion and isn't a textbook suggestion.

Good luck matey!!

[Nightcrewman]

Everything Zandor said basically.

If your plants are healthy but simply not putting on the girth and weight that your expect then there are a few things to change:

1. more lighting
2. more air flow
3. more ammendments
4. change nutes altogether
5. etc



Hi home.grower

What do you mean by ammendments I've not come across the term B4

[home.grower]

Hi home.grower

What do you mean by ammendments I've not come across the term B4

Ammendments are additives, sorry. Like Fulvic and Humic Acid or CarboLoad for example. The stuff that you'd add on top of nutes like beneficial microbes...

[Al B. Fuct]

I tend not to believe in too many magic sauces. One should be able to get well developed, solid buds with nothing more than nutes from a reputable maker.

Sure, some additives are helpful, but proper conditions in the grow op are 90% of what makes good buds.

I run my flowering area (http://forum.grasscity.com/advanced-growing-techniques/156593-get-harvest-every-2-weeks.html#post1649792) at 24-25C @ 30-50%.

[Zandor]

are the grow reports avaiable in text format for reading? if not is it a consideration for you?

The Grow Report is from a series of books I wrote over the past 10 years to share my 30+ years of experience. Problems with greedy publishers and lawyers making threats pissed me off so I an doing the show to give away my books. At this time I do not plan to publish anything but the detailed blue prints of different systems with how to build then instructions. I just have not had the time to get back to finishing converting my hand drawings to auto-CAD drawings for greater detail. I hope to get back to that project over the next few months. I have said before "End of the year" but that was the past 2 years. All the legal crap is behind me now but time has slipped by and other projects (like my new house) have taken front seat.

Thanks for asking. :jointsmile:



I tend not to believe in too many magic sauces. One should be able to get well developed, solid buds with nothing more than nutes from a reputable maker.

Sure, some additives are helpful, but proper conditions in the grow op are 90% of what makes good buds.

I run my flowering area (http://forum.grasscity.com/advanced-growing-techniques/156593-get-harvest-every-2-weeks.html#post1649792) at 24-25C @ 30-50%.

Well boosters/additives or what ever you want call them is the difference between 4 ounces per plant (average yield for most growers) and 6 to 10 ounces from the same plant. It's about giving the plant the exact amount they need for that cycle of life. You can't do that with just an NPK formula. The plants needs do change with every cycle of life change (IE, aging each week) so to keep up certain minerals can be applied at certain times to produce larger yields. Sweet & Carb Load can pack on weight, silica will increase the uptake of nutrients and make the stock and stems more mailable. Northern Lights Fat Flower will promote flower sooner then not using anything by 10 day's.

Just as CO² will increase your over all yield by 20% or more if you use it right. Commercial flushing products will help to removed minerals, salts and other nutrients combinations from the plant at the end as well. They do force the plant to use up stored minerals in the fan leafs and speed up the drying and curing process time by weeks and improve the over all taste as well.

They do have their roll to play in a top shelf quality grow.

They are not required and the plant can grow in the crack of a side walk with nothing but water too.

If you compare the quality the difference it will be night and day. One is top shelf and the other is ditch weed. Both get you high but you will use 10-1 of the ditch weed to achieve the same effect vs. the top shelf strain.

[Al B. Fuct]

If you compare the quality the difference it will be night and day. One is top shelf and the other is ditch weed. Both get you high but you will use 10-1 of the ditch weed to achieve the same effect vs. the top shelf strain.

Hang on, are you saying that without magic sauces, all you get is ditchweed?:wtf:

[Zandor]

Hang on, are you saying that without magic sauces, all you get is ditchweed?:wtf:

No not at all, well sort of not at all. Plus they are not "Magic" in fact it's science.

As long as you control the environment and use proper light, ventilation, and some proper base NPK you will grow decent weed but you will not get everything the plant can offer or even the yield that you should get for the money and effort you are putting in.

Why would you spend all the time, money and effort and NOT product the very best you can?

The difference of not using a proper nutrients formula of some sort is about an average yield of 2-4 ounces for your efforts and 4-6 ounces for the same time spend, and effort. You will spend about 50 bucks more on nutrients give or take what you choose, but for the extra few bucks you can end up with close to twice the yield and if you pay close attention to the environment you can get even more.

I would be amiss in my duties if I did not point out for you and others that to get, great quality and above average yield you need proper nutrition. I would not like a new medical grower to think for their first time that water is all they need.

No offense meant toward you at all dude, just keeping the facts straight and dialog open is all :hippy:

[LOC NAR on probation]

Danm, If I can't get your books Zandor then I have to keep records myself. I have seen the difference from a few additives from my start. Can't wait to get back in it. Copy and paste, my hard drive will handle it. i just have to sort it out. Thanks Z. Glad to see you back more and sorry about latewood. I'm going to go see him as soon as they turn me loose soon.

[Al B. Fuct]

No not at all, well sort of not at all. Plus they are not "Magic" in fact it's science.

Sure, there's some sauces which have some science behind them- but plenty more which are "magic."

Because of the 'underground' nature of this game and the amount of myth and rumour which surrounds it, quite a lot of things get sold which frankly can't be proven to work. Disreputable makers and even some local hydro shops mix up all manner of stuff which does sell- and do produce very profitable margins- but won't do much for plants.

With all due respect, I've been growing just as long as you have and I have seen plenty of magic sauces come and go. I've even done a few weeks here and there filling in for a very large hydroponics wholesaler. People will buy just about anything if it's packaged attractively and has a few buzzwords in the product name. Don't get me started on stuff like "Carbo-Load." Marathon runners might 'carbo-load' by eating a bunch of pasta before a race but carbohydrates (including molasses) are meaningless to multicellular plants. Good for feeding microbes in soil, useless in standard hydroponics as there shouldn't be any other organisms in the media to feed, certainly no microbes.

I'd advise anyone to start with the basics- nutes and some pathogen control like H202- and then add things that come recommended- one by one- and evaluate them for themselves. Mind you, even that isn't a proof that something is actually useful; real scientific proof comes from double-blind comparisons, not very easy to do in this situation.

Proper grow room conditions are 90% of growing good dope. Once that's squared away, then try tweaking nutes and supplements.

My list of known-useful supplements is very short. A calcium & magnesium additive (using Cal-Mag now but have in the past used Epsom Salts for the Mg) and a phosphorus additive (Canna's PK-13-14) in wk3.

[Zandor]

Sorry dude you have been burned so much by bad shops and products.

I'm my opinion with out proper additives at the proper time in the plants cycle of life and that includes proper environment control through out the whole grow to match the plant cycle you can yield 2 pounds or more per plant.

True 90% or more will only get 6-10 ounces per-plant at best but with everything in the right time and portions you can achieve pounds per plant.

Here is my proof.

But props to you dude and happy growing man. I appreciate your help on the forums too with everyone. :thumbsup: